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Leo
27th November 2010, 06:43 PM
Hi,
Anybody have the wheel alignment specs for the RRS TDV8? Local alignment guy says he put everything 'straight', whatever that is......

Thanks!

d3viate
27th November 2010, 08:58 PM
If you didn't get LandRover to put the computer on and lower it to "alignment situation" which it then has to be driven at no more than about 8kms/hr to the alignment place or he had the software program (or a Faultmate etc) to do it, he did not do it.
I had the same BS from an alignment centre until I learnt of this. I was told the old line, we know what we are doing, done heaps !.
Get it done at a LR Dealer who has the alignment facility. I had the D3 done recently and it was about $130. Here are the specs anyway.

d3viate
27th November 2010, 09:15 PM
http://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/attach/pdf.gif
http://www.aulro.com/afvb/attachment.php?attachmentid=31368&stc=1&d=1290856229

tequesta
27th November 2010, 10:04 PM
Agreed, get it done at a dealership. I did mine twice outside, and still could not get the car alignment sorted.

Leo
27th November 2010, 11:38 PM
Thanks for the info!

stig0000
28th November 2010, 07:55 AM
ummm, sorry tight tolerance no longer applies when doing a wheel alignment, just set it at standard height,

Graeme
28th November 2010, 12:27 PM
When I had my D4 alignment locally without TT mode havnig been set, I removed the main air suspension fuse while the engine was running once it had levelled on the platform so that it couldn't re-level downwards during the alignment. The alignment was just within tolerances but the tolerances are so generous that the tyres were wearing in multiple respects. The operator set the alignment much closer to the nominal specs except for giving the left front a bit more caster. I'll find out in a few months what the wear improvement is but it certainly steers left and right more evenly now.

d3viate
28th November 2010, 03:09 PM
ummm, sorry tight tolerance no longer applies when doing a wheel alignment, just set it at standard height,

ummm, Im not pretending to be a guru, I'm just passing on what the Perth LandRover Service Manager told me last month.
I also have access to a very recent digital workshop manual which states as such.
No doubt you can align at any height you wish.
Having managed a few workshops there is always somebody that says " thats all crap" to certain procedures a workshop manual or dealer representative states to do.
Also being a Mine Maintenance Planner and having training in Failure Diagnosis, Warranty Claiming etc etc, my experience is to do it "by the book" so there is no doubt ever of who is at fault when the s#&@ hits the fan.

stig0000
28th November 2010, 04:39 PM
[QUOTE=d3viate;1378561]ummm, Im not pretending to be a guru, I'm just passing on what the Perth LandRover Service Manager told me last month.
I also have access to a very recent digital workshop manual which states as such.
No doubt you can align at any height you wish.
Having managed a few workshops there is always somebody that says " thats all crap" to certain procedures a workshop manual or dealer representative states to do.
Also being a Mine Maintenance Planner and having training in Failure Diagnosis, Warranty Claiming etc etc, my experience is to do it "by the book" so there is no doubt ever of who is at fault when the s#&@ hits the fan.[/QUOTE

im just going off what im told when in landrover AUS training in sydney,, theres no need to pull fuses eather, thats just going to put meaning less codes into the car, and when it comes to fault finding we have supply circuit faults and we can be chasing nothing, happens all to often, ;)

roamer
28th November 2010, 06:29 PM
I had my D4 aligned (all 4 wheels ) 27000k ago, Bob Jane set at hiway mode,
wearing dead even, but I was sus at the time.
Cheers Ken

Graeme
28th November 2010, 06:41 PM
theres no need to pull fuses eather
Its the only way to be certain that the vehicle doesn't level downwards if someone gets in and out of the vehicle. My vehicle probably has millions of faults stored from my "investigations" so they'd have to be cleared before looking at anything.

roamer
28th November 2010, 06:48 PM
Its the only way to be certain that the vehicle doesn't level downwards if someone gets in and out of the vehicle. My vehicle probably has millions of faults stored from my "investigations" so they'd have to be cleared before looking at anything.

Put the hazards on and tailgate or door open, it thinks you have a flat, and shouldn't lower.

stig0000
28th November 2010, 06:53 PM
Put the hazards on and tailgate or door open, it thinks you have a flat, and shouldn't lower.

very tru,, but why would some one get in/out wile doing a alignment;)

it just needs to be at STANDED height

Graeme
28th November 2010, 09:14 PM
very tru,, but why would some one get in/out wile doing a alignment;)

For starters, to put it into neutral so that it could be rocked back and forth during the alignment. Why assume that no-one's going to get in when its so easy to remove the fuse?

ADMIRAL
3rd December 2010, 12:36 AM
very tru,, but why would some one get in/out wile doing a alignment;)

it just needs to be at STANDED height

The only reason they would actually get into the vehicle while doing an alignment, is to centre the steering wheel. However this is generally done by leaning in the window. An alignment is completed with the vehicle in Drive, the handbrake on, and the brake pedal locked down. Any forward/back movement of the vehicle during the alignment process, and the operator will have to start again. ( resweep ) A door ajar stops the suspension from moving. The only niggle I have experienced, is the ignition turning itself off. The older setup with a key was better. The ignition needs to be on to allow free movement of the steering wheel for the sweeps.
Hope this helps.