Petrol tanks and fillers and cap locks...

[drifter]

I dropped the petrol tank out of Fernando today.

Two reasons:
1. I wanted to leak test it
2. I wanted to clean and paint it.

To my surprise, I found the following:

The metal part of the breather tube at the filler end was 'loose'. It appears to have cracked its weld.
The metal part of the breather tube at the tank end was in the same condition.
The metal part of the filler tube at the tank end was also in the same condition.


I put it on trestles and filled it with water to discover:

The bung leaks
both seams on the lower edge of the tank leak.

There is absolutely no rust in this tank - which is a shame.

I have a tank in George that doesn't leak so I think I'll swap it over if it comes out easy enough and looks to be in good condition.

I was already contemplating swapping over the filler from George because it has the metal tube that extends when filling and Fernando doesn't - and I can't swap the tube from one to the other alone because they have a different set of grooves for fitting...

Now - a couple of questions...

Is it worth getting the tank re-welded? I note they seem to have a replacement cost of around $220

The locking mechanism for the petrol cap: do you mount it from the top or the bottom. Originally I mounted it at the bottom and it gives plenty of room to get the cap off (and makes it a one handed operation) but it stuck out a fair bit. Mounting it at the top is 'neater' but a bit more awkward in use. Which would you do and why?

The bung. It was leaking. I removed it. It is brass. It has a big, beautiful copper washer - and its threads were packed with plumbers tape! What fix would you recommend?

Thanks in advance...

[chazza]

The metal part of the breather tube at the filler end was 'loose'. It appears to have cracked its weld.
The metal part of the breather tube at the tank end was in the same condition.
The metal part of the filler tube at the tank end was also in the same condition.

The bung leaks
both seams on the lower edge of the tank leak.



The bung. It was leaking. I removed it. It is brass. It has a big, beautiful copper washer - and its threads were packed with plumbers tape! What fix would you recommend?

Thanks in advance...

What about using one of the fuel tank sealers to stop the leaks at the seams, or get the joints re-soldered, which can be a bit tricky to do.

The pipes should be able to be soldered in place; have you scratched yours to see if it is solder or welding at the join?

Use Loctite High Pressure pipe sealant on the bung, for a very fast and permanent seal,

Cheers Charlie

[drifter]

What about using one of the fuel tank sealers to stop the leaks at the seams, or get the joints re-soldered, which can be a bit tricky to do.

The pipes should be able to be soldered in place; have you scratched yours to see if it is solder or welding at the join?

Use Loctite High Pressure pipe sealant on the bung, for a very fast and permanent seal,

Cheers Charlie

Thanks Charlie

I have been trying to find POR-15 or it's equivalent in this town but no luck so far.

Yes, it does look like solder around the pipes and, in my snotty past, I have done a fair bit of soldering... Mainly for the big stuff, copper pipes and guttering as a 'plumbers helper' and a huge amount of it as my original trade (where we fixed electronics, instead of replacing the bits).

Hmmm - I may just make up a jig to support them and give it a go.

I'll go look up the parts manuals re the swapping of the external filler assembly. If they have the same part number, I'll do that.

Any thoughts on whether the 'lock' should swing from the top or bottom?

[chazza]

G'day Drifter,
I have heard that Redcote is a very good sealer as well.

Soldering may not work on the seams because of the difficulty of getting it clean. ;) Try a big-mumma soldering iron on the pipes, keeping naked flames well-away from the tank of course.

I have just looked at my S3 and the cap lock is on the bottom - it seems to be as good a place as any :)

Cheers Charlie

[drifter]

Thanks Charlie

No worries with gas on this one - it has been open and fully venting for over 3 years - and a belly full of water will help when the time comes

Agree on the seam difficulty - there is a particular bottled flux that would make it work - I can't remember the name but I'll know it if I see it. I may go a googling.

[landy821]

`The liquid flux you may be looking for is ' Baker's Soldering Fluid"
another product which may work is ;LaCo Soft soldering Paste.
Cheers and good luck.

[isuzutoo-eh]

Cap lock on bottom, its a real pain when its on the top and keeps flipping down when filling up!

[drifter]

`The liquid flux you may be looking for is ' Baker's Soldering Fluid"
another product which may work is ;LaCo Soft soldering Paste.
Cheers and good luck.

Green plastic bottle? Thanks


Cap lock on bottom, its a real pain when its on the top and keeps flipping down when filling up!

:BigThumb: Thanks

[peterg1001]

I have been trying to find POR-15 or it's equivalent in this town but no luck so far.

Yes, it does look like solder around the pipes and, in my snotty past, I have done a fair bit of soldering... Mainly for the big stuff, copper pipes and guttering as a 'plumbers helper' and a huge amount of it as my original trade (where we fixed electronics, instead of replacing the bits).


Check out Cleaning up the fuel tank (http://greenacre.biz/landrover/943_fueltank/943_fueltank.htm) for details on a POR-15 equvalent for the tank.

The whole tank is soldered together, don't even think about putting enough heat into it to braze it, it'll fall apart.

Use a wire brush on an angle grinder, that'll get it clean enough to solder, and get some flux from aplumbers supplier - a serious one like Reece.

Peter

[drifter]

:BigThumb:

Thanks guys - it's all done and looking great. Many thanks for the help.

[101RRS]

You should have asked me - been there done all this.

Tanks soldered not welded - soldering can fix.

I have used POR and it works well - you can get it at the Automotive Paint Shop in the next group of shop units north west of Super Cheap Fyshwick.

But I guess you have fixed everything now.

Garry