FFR Refurb

[gromit]

After purchasing what I thought was a fairly good condition FFR I am now embarking on a slightly more thorough overhaul/rebuild.
Purchased via ebay it wasn't running and had a damaged front wing and cracked exhaust manifold but was otherwise complete and with a reasonable hood. The previous owner had removed the cylinder head because it was 'smoking' but put it back together without changing the head gasket !
After sitting on the driveway for a few weeks I charged the battery and tried to start it. All I could hear was the fuel pump ticking away so I put some petrol in the tank, the ticking stopped and was replaced by the smell of petrol ! Drained the tank, annealed the sealing washer on the tank drain plug, refilled it and started again. It wouldn't start and the engine was turning over quite slowly so I decided to replace the battery but the motor still turned over slowly. Eventually tracked it down to a dicky starter motor, fortunately by now I had a spare engine from another forum member (thanks Steve) and it had a working starter motor.
The car still wouldn't start but was turning over a lot faster. Fiddling around under the bonnet I found that the distributor wasn't bolted down !!
I decided to check the plugs, tappets & set the timing statically (and bolt the distributor down). Checking the exhaust tappets was fun, had to remove the dipstick tube, to do that had to remove the oil filter housing so decided to change the oil and found a fair bit of water & emulsified oil in the sump (which I put down to the head gasket).
Still wouldn't start but after replacing one HT lead and the coil she was running.......
I fixed the exhaust manifold with a drinks can & some wire & then filled up the radiator, started it again and sprayed water everywhere because two bolts on the thermostat housing were sheared off !!!
Drilled out the broken bolts, fitted new ones and she ran perfectly except for water bubbling from the head gasket and a smoky exhaust so, as expected, the head had to come off.
With the head off the combustion chambers were found to be very oily so it needed further investigation. Part of the oil problem was the head gasket not sealing but the compression rings were found to be badly worn

I managed to source a head gasket from a forum member (thanks Peter) and a front wing from another (thanks Garry) but I'm struggling now to source +.020 rings.

While looking for rings I decided to change all the oils. Drained the rear diff and first got water, then coffee coloured, lumpy, oily stuff and finally some clean oil. The car has a lot of mud stuck underneath and I think it has been left stuck somewhere partly submersed.
Front diff oil was OK.
Checked the prop shafts and had to replace one UJ on the rear, The front had both UJ's stuffed but it had the gaiter on the slip joint. Brilliant idea until you leave the vehicle in deep water.......undid the gaiter and muddy water came out ! It clearly wasn't sealed well enough to keep the water out but sealed well enough to keep it in. The splines are OK luckily.

The FFR will take a while to complete because we are imminently expecting 2 new arrivals....a baby in early January and a military 2A next week !!

More info, pictures and, no doubt, more horror stories to follow.......



Colin

[Rob king]

Hmmmmm,

Seen something similar recently...
Cant quite put my finger on it....
Any ideas JohnE:D

Gotta love it all haven't you!
keep up the good work gromit!

Rob King

[gromit]

Thanks Rob,

I was watching the FFR thread by JohnE hoping for a simple solution to my problem.

The compression rings are OK but the oil control rings have worn very badly. Couldn't work out why, but now I have an answer....
My Rover colleague spoke to someone in the engine reconditioning industry, rapid oil control ring wear is apparently a sign of ingesting lots of fine dust.
When I checked the oil bath filter it had no oil in ! The previous owner had effectively run it without a filter and looking at the state of the underneath of the vehicle it had been used for some serious off-roading so it would quite possibly have sucked in a fair amount of fine dust........


I'm beginning to dread working on the FFR because of what I might find next. Maybe it's time to re-assemble it and put it back on ebay.


Colin

[gromit]

A couple of engine reconditioners I have been to have sold off all their old ring sets etc., there are a few companies buying up all the old stuff.
Late yesterday I tracked down STD & +.040" rings but still no +.020". A local company can get +.020" from the UK but $230 by the time I get them, one of the companies buying up all the old stock is checking whether thay can put together a ring set from loose rings.

Still trying a few UK places so hopefully after Christmas I can get the FFR going again.

I have to complete a traditional rocking horse and assemble a dolls house for my daughter in time for Christmas plus tidy the garden and remove Land Rovers from the driveway ready for guests.
Too many projects, too little time......



Colin

[JohnE]

Looks like we are both in the same boat, will fire off a message tonight when i get home to compare notes and maybe we can work out a solution as the engine guys seem to up in the air for might liking .
There does not seem to be too many 2.6 experts about,.

john

[Lotz-A-Landies]

Your fall back is to contact Ian Cox from Cox and Turner Engineering in the UK. They continue to have parts for the Series 1 IOE engines manufactured so I am assuming that they do the same for 2.6 Land Rover parts also. They have an Ebay presence but at present their website only displays the contact details.Welcome to Cox & Turner Engineering (http://www.coxandturner.co.uk/holding.php)

[gromit]

I've uploaded a couple of pictures to show the degree of wear on the oil control rings. In the first one you can see that the spacer between the oil control rings has rubbed against the bore and in the second one you can see the difference in radial thickness between a compression ring and whats left of an oil control ring.
I need to hunt down my internal micrometers or telescope gauges to check the bore wear before going much further. There is a wear ridge at the top of the bore but I need to check how bad the bore is and maybe start checking out the spare engine as an alternative....

I only had the car running for a very short time because of the leaking head gasket but the exhaust was smoky.

JohnE, good to talk to you last night, a problem shared is a problem halved.......but it's still a problem !

Colin

[gromit]

I visited 2 more engine reco companies today (the beauty of being paid to drive around for a living).

1st one couldn't track down rings but found that rings from a Holden grey motor are within 1thou of the OD and wider than the original. This opens the option of getting the pistons machined to accept non-std rings (shame it's from a Holden though).
I now have details of someone who can quote for doing it and should have a price soon.

2nd one tracked down STD, +.040 & +.060" rings but no +.020".
He then managed to track down new pistons.

Set 6 pistons +.060" $ 275
Rings for the above $175
Bore & hone $28plus GST per cylinder

The bore & hone price was based on me taking in just the bare block otherwise there would be additional costs.
He didn't know much about F-heads but when I made him aware of the slightly increased bore at the top he commented that there may be a small increase in the bore & hone costs. They reference off the sump plane so no fancy tooling needed to bore the block.

I also managed to borrow a bore comparator (I'm sure someone will come up with the correct technical description....) so that I can quickly check for wear throughout the bore. The chap that loaned it to me has had it for years and never used it so he was glad that at last someone was putting it to good use.


Colin

[gromit]

Phew, only .003" wear in the bore so if I can get .020" rings then I just have to hone the bore and I'm in business.
The backup plan is the Holden rings, although I must check out the machining costs first.

Colin

[JohnE]

Colin, very interesting good photos' ring what ring' its nearly all gone just like you described.

Funny you mentioned the grey motor, I have had a chat with maurie tonight (muddy) and one of the things that came up was the availability of rings.
I reasoned the motor came out if the fifties, around the same time was the holden grey motor ex chrysler copy I believe, did they reinvent the wheel and design a piston with rings only available for use in one type of motor, I would think not, why not use what was already around. ( about now I expect the techno experts to come in and quote designers engineers and so on.) I reckoned a set of holden rings would probably fit with a bit of fiddling. maurie concured,
Some of those links gave great points I am especialy interested in whether valve stem guides could be the problem,


john

[gromit]

It seems that +.020" rings are available but scarce. You need to call every engine rebuilder you can find because they all have different 'contacts'.
Called into a rebuilder in country VIC today, he said he'd phone a couple of contacts. An hour later he phoned to say he'd found some, cost was $200 (which even he felt was expensive).
I have another couple of leads to follow up but to date the highest quote has been $680 for a set of rings:Rolling:. No joke, $680 for +.020" rings via a company in WA. I could get it rebored to +.060, fit new pistons & rings and get change out of $680

As the supply of parts tails off suppliers raise the price of their old stock.......On the 6-cylinder you are OK if you need STD, +.040" or +.060" rings but if you need +.020" you should either look for another engine or consider a rebore.

I collect a 2A GS on Saturday and hopefully the buyer of my '58 Series 2 collects it at the weekend (taking some pressure off). Later in January I hope to have the engine back together on the FFR.


Colin

[Lotz-A-Landies]

<snip>
I reasoned the motor came out if the fifties, around the same time was the holden grey motor ex chrysler copy I believe, did they reinvent the wheel ...
<snip>:confused:

Who copied what off Chrysler?

[gromit]

A set of +.020" rings are on their way from the USA. Including freight the cost was under US$100.

Better get the rest of the pistons out, hone the bores, replace the inlet guide seals and check the exhaust valves. Then it will be a simple re-assembly exercise when the rings arrive.
I have a new exhaust manifold from a fellow forum member (thanks Steve) so the old one with the drinks can repair can go into the scrap bin.....

Looking forward to getting it mobile in the new year and then finding out what further horrors the previous owner has passed on to me.


Colin

[Rob king]

Great news Colin.
Perseverence pays off!
You make it all sound so easy;)
Rob.

[Rusty Bulkhead]

A couple of years ago I bought an ex army S3 for $300 from the junkyard. The body was destined for the crusher but the motor turned out to be in almost new condition with perfect compression etc. With some minor tuning, this motor has now been transplanted into another ex army S3 and is in regular use. Sometimes luck runs in your favour, sometimes it doesn't :D

[JohnE]

Good news, for we Ser 3 lunatics.
Colin that chat we had the other night some of the manifold bad vibes have rubbed off on me, discovered mine has a hairline crack in it too.
oh well If all else fails i know who has the new ones.

john

[Rob king]

Did someone say new [6cyl exhaust] manifolds?:eek:
I'd love to replace my extractors with the genuine item.....
Rob

[Rob king]

John
Evidence of the famed Robo steak.
Muddy Made it up yesterday, gotta love the profiles on display!!:D
Good to see you again Maurie, hope you make it back up next weekend.
Rob.

[JohnE]

Thats what i call a steak!

Note to maurie, you seem to have grown a veranda! over your toes. Too much good living I suspect.

john

[muddy]

Hi John

What do you mean a verandah!!! That was the result of those Robo steaks and beer and I had to also eat for the cutouts as their meals were too good to leave

Rob thanks for a good afternoon .The young barmaid took an affection to the cutouts that were sitting beside the bar and realy got excited when we told her ONE DAY a person or persons will appear.

[gromit]

Rob,

4-Wheel Drives in Blackburn have new 6-cyl exhaust manifolds for $99 on ebay. Freight might add to the cost a bit though.
They are genuine LR parts and last I heard someone from the UK was talking to them about buying the remaining few they had.


Colin

[gromit]

Just got a couple of emails from a mate in the UK. He tracked down 2 sets of +.020" rings both priced about 110pounds per set.

Picked up a '70 Series 2A GS on Saturday (thanks Steve) so need to prioritise which project to work on. I must get the FFR engine back together as soon as the rings arrive then I need to get it undercover to protect the canvas from the weather.

So I now have a shed extension to build, engine to reassemble, rocking horse to finish and a baby due in a couple of weeks......looks like spare time will be a thing of the past.


Colin

[Rob king]

Thanks Colin,
Your time or lack thereof sounds familiar! Why do we start so many things at once?
Thanks for the manifold details. I will contact them and put it on the shelf for a rainy day.
The fun will be undoing the old nuts which look more like brown lumps. Then I also need the manifold gasket and a pair of exhaust flanges (with gasket) , since mine is welded through. Is it a 3-bolt jobbie?
Mine dont look at all like John's new shiny ones:(
Rob.

[gromit]

Rob,

Manifold details :-

Land Rover Series 6CLY MANIFOLD (eBay item 220636219361 end time 08-Jan-11 16:14:21 AEDST) : Cars, Bikes, Boats (http://cgi.ebay.com.au/Land-Rover-Series-6CLY-MANIFOLD-/220636219361?pt=AU_Car_Parts_Accessories&hash=item335ef187e1)

Freight is only $11



Colin

[Rob king]

Colin,

Thanks a lot, theres lots of other great stuff there too.:eek:
Most is cheaper than the other ebay guy I've been using.
I have been looking for a straight bumber and he has new ones!
Looks like more christmas pressies for me:cool:.

I see there is a set of +.020 rings for $33.00?......

Rob.

[gromit]

The piston rings arrived from the USA a couple of weeks ago, now fitted and the engine is running without the smoke, more about the fitting to follow.......
I'm changing my phone/internet provider but had to switch to Telstra first if I wanted to port the phone number across so I've been without internet access for a while.

Anyway, while waiting for the rings to arrive I decided to check the brakes. The previous owner had 'spent a bit of money on the brakes'.
Took off the drivers side rear and found the drum full of EP90 & grease mix ! When it was degreased I found that the drum had been skimmed and relined shoes fitted along with a new wheel cylinder. Pulled back a dust cover on the wheel cylinder and found brake fluid had leaked past the seals !! Not sure if the linings can be saved, but degreased them and put them back in for the time being along with a seal kit in the 'new' wheel cylinder. Wheel bearings were OK so fitted a new seal and re-packed the bearings with grease.

Despite all the oil in the hub the stub axle had rust on it, another sign that this vehicle has spent some time sitting in water. I haven't been brave enough to look at the other brakes but I expect the worst.....

Amongst many other issues that need rectifying I now have to remove the steering box to fix a serious leak, replace the front passenger wing, straighten out the brushguard & bumper plus when removing the starter motor a thread stripped in the bell housing (must have been previously damaged).

The shed extension frame is up, I need to order the tin for the roof so I can get the FFR under cover to protect the canopy and the wife goes in to be induced on Tuesday (over a week overdue at the moment). Busy, busy, busy....


Colin

[gromit]

The piston rings arrived early in the New Year, just shoved in a mailbag. The box was a bit squashed but the rings survived OK.

I had to make a spring compressor to check the inlet valves, I have several but nothing with enough reach because of the integral inlet manifold on the 6cyl head. Valves OK, stem seals replaced.

The pistons had been cleaned and just needed the old rings removed and the new ones fitting (after checking the end gap in one of the bores). The second compression ring has an undercut to help reduce oil consumption, not sure whether this was the norm with these motors or because if a set of rings are supplied separately they will be usually fitted into a worn bore ?
Then I had to deal with the 3thou wear ridge at the top of the bore. A friend suggested trying to hire a ridge remover but I'm not sure whether they are suited to an F-head motor. Anyway after a but of hunting I located some scrapers that I last used in the UK (I've been in Australia now for 13 years). Hard work with the motor still in the car but the wear ridge was removed and the bores honed.

Exhaust valves OK so just re-ground them.

Re-assembly was straightforward. Cleaned the carby, reset the timing, fitted the new exhaust manifold and check everything over.
Started second time, smoked briefly (oil used during assembly), then stopped, then started again (oil being sprayed onto the bores and the scraper rings not yet bedded in) then finally stopped again.

Run it for a while and found no leaks (oil or water) but it was a bit tappety so re-adjusted both inlet and (once it was cold) the exhaust tappets. Isn't the 6cyl motor a brilliant design when it comes to getting to the exhaust tappets ! Either remove the exhaust manifold or (as I did) remove the filter to allow removal of the dipstick tube to get the cover out of the way. Then get on top of the motor and hang upside down to complete the adjustments.
My work colleague with the 6cyl Rover recons it's easier to remove the engine to adjust them.

Colin

[gromit]

Back to work after paternity leave, now have internet access....

A couple more images of the engine overhaul are attached.
Over the weekend I cleaned & flushed the cooling system and added some corrosion inhibitor. This is much cheaper than anti-freeze and will be OK while I'm not using it on the road.

It starts easily, there's no smoke at all but the exhaust is a bit noisy. The previous owner had a new full length exhaust system installed but the silencer box has burst open ?! Maybe coasting downhill, in gear then turn on the ignition .... BANG ? Who knows but I'll have to take it off at some point and see if it can be repaired otherwise I'm up for a silencer.
I was thinking of buying a new silencer anyway because I have the original front mounted exhaust but the silencer has rusted out.
Anyone know a supplier for the 6cyl silencer at a reasonable price ?

Now it moves I drove it down the garden and jetwashed it. I was surprised at how much dirt was on chassis rails, under wheel arches etc. The exhaust system looked corroded but it was just layers of red dirt cooked on.

I need to get the other wheels off and investigate the brakes. I found at the weekend that the master cylinder reservoir is damaged from UV exposure so I need a new one before I go much further with the braking system.

I'm also experiencing problems with the gearchange. If you push across to the reverse detent then try to find first gear you cannot get it. Pull back to the right a bit and there it is. Something else to investigate......

Colin

[gromit]

Found a few hours spare time at the weekend (between changing nappies and trying to catch up on sleep) so i decided to remove the other rear wheel to investigate the brakes.

The good news is that apart from surface rust on the drum the linings are new (not even bedded in), wheel cylinder wasn't leaking but I'll put a seal kit in it anyway. My brake specialist, the father-in-law, suggested that the seals on the other side had failed because of the EP90 that had filled the drum.
The bad news is that the wheel bearings are rusted, in fact I got water out with the oil when I removed the hub once again confirming that this vehicle has spend some time sitting in deep water.

I haven't got a nickname for the FFR yet but something involving submarines would be appropriate.......


Colin

[rednjoey]

I would be honoured if you named it after me! - WADE
Not nearly as drastic as a submarine type name but it is an army vehicle not a Navy one.

Food for thought LOL :D

[zulu Delta 534]

Just call it Queensland, or Northern NSW, or Victoria or South Aussie; all euphemisms for 'under water'!
How about Algie (algae)
Croak.
Slime.
How about FerOx (rust, with a bit of licence)
The list goes on.
Regards
Glen

[gromit]

Thanks for the suggestions guys.....

Just costed Timken wheel bearings (see Series III forum) at $315 per hub !!!
It started off as a 'cheap' Land Rover but is rapidly becoming a money pit. Makes you wonder about the economics of buying a 'restorers delight' over the 'fully refurbished' version.

My '56 Series 1 was in far better condition than the FFR but looked worse from the outside. Lesson learned........


Colin

[gromit]

We discussed names for the FFR last night, I can't print some of the wife's ideas.
Wade was well accepted then SWMBO suggested Collins Class.....they had nearly as may problems and cost issues as my FFR !
Holbrook is also another possibility after the submarine captain.


Colin

[Veryan]

Hi Gromit!

I only just stumbled across this post! I like your work!

Thanks for the pictures of the engine rebuild - very interesting! I had often wondered how it was done with the engine in place. I liked the use of the sandwich bags to keep the big end bearings free of dirt etc. :)

Did you keep the same/original big end bearing or replace these too? And what method did you use to keep out all the honing dust from the rest of the engine? And how did you work out what size rings to fit?

Many thanks in advance!

James

[gromit]

James,

The big end bearings & journals were OK (+.010) so were re-fitted.
As for keeping metallic particles out of the engine....I put rag over the journals then cleaned up afterwards. The sump was on & off while the work was carried out because I'm working outside on a gravel driveway so this was cleaned at the end of the job. The journals & crank were wiped over after the scraping & honing was completed.
My thinking is that oil is delivered everywhere via the filter so any particles left end up in the sump or the filter and shouldn't get delivered around the engine. A few may get splashed around but it couldn't be any worse than what I found when the sump was removed.

They used to rebore engines while still in the car, this would have created a lot of metallic particles that dropped into the motor. The father-in-law said all they did was put some rag over the big end journals and clean up afterwards.
The oil and filter will be replaced sooner rather than later.

As for the piston ring size, I read the oversize off the piston :)...... I also checked the bore on an unworn part at the bottom using a telescope gauge & large micrometer to confirm the oversize.
The bore is a few thou larger in diameter due to wear but I also checked the end gaps of the new rings in the bore before fitting to the pistons.

Not rocket science but you do need access to suitable measuring equipment.


Colin

[gromit]

Decided to change the gearbox & transfer box oil at the weekend. Even if I don't intend to use a vehicle for some time I usually change all the oils, it's nice to know that there is the correct quantity of clean oil where it should be.
Gearbox, less than half a litre drained out ! The drain plug was very tight until it had been undone 2 or 3 turns, almost as if it was the wrong thread. I annealed the drain plug washer and screwed he plug back in, again tight for the last couple of turns but nothing obviously wrong.
Transfer box had maybe 2 litres in it, very black and evidence of fine metal particles so more investigation needed at some point in the future.

Luckily I have a reasonably priced supplier for EP 80W90 because it's getting expensive if you buy the big brands.

Tonight I was feeling brave and decided to check one of the front brakes & hub. The drum came off easily, evidence of water in the drum in the past (slight rust) but shoes looked new and hadn't even bedded in fully, both wheel cylinders looked newish. Pulled the hub off and after cleaning out the grease found that the smaller taper roller bearing was badly pitted.
Time for another Indian wheel bearing set. I got a spare set but odds are that the other front hub will need bearings as well.....

Colin

[gromit]

Managed to get the Indian bearings in the hub last week then covered the hub with a plastic bag to keep the weather off.
Then it rained a bit on Friday night !

I've managed to clean the paths around the house (after shovelling a lot of sand & dirt off) pump out the pit under the pool (an above ground partly set in-ground) get the pool working again (pump submerged while running !). I now have to re-build the driveway (gravel washout) try to move the garden back uphill, get the drains unblocked etc......
No water into the house luckily but a couple of the sheds had about 2" of water through them. Nothing important damaged but a reminder not to store bags of quickset concrete on the floor, anyone want a couple of large lumps of concrete.

The FFR & 2a GS were outside (still haven't got the roof on the shed extension). The FFR is on an axle stand which was gradually sinking into the driveway on Friday night as the water swept the driveway away.
Looks like the Landys will be on the backburner for a while.

Have attached a picture of our free water feature and also the Narre Cranbourne road which is still flooded and may not be clear for another few days causing major traffic problems every morning at the moment.


Colin

[chris1983rangie]

hi Colin,
thats crazy mate your garden turned into a water fall, we had 165mm in keysborough one part of Cheltneham rd was 7ft deep!
cheers chris

[gromit]

Chris,

The Narre Cranbourne Road didn't open until Wednesday after the flooding and the smell as you drive along there is 'on the nose'.
Collected a metre and a half of Lillydale Toppings to fill the holes in the driveway last weekend and I'm still shoveling the garden back uphill to where it belongs. Just have to deal with AAMI regarding getting the drains unblocked, one call it's covered, next call it isn't ! I know they're busy and a lot of people are far worse off than us but it would be nice to get a straight answer......

Started and ran the Series 1, FFR & 2aGS at the weekend because 2 of them sit outside and the Series 1 shed copped a couple of inches of water through it. Collected the zincalume for the shed extension roof last week, just have to find time to fit it now......


Colin

[gromit]

The shed extension roof is on but the ground needs to be leveled, a couple of courses of bricks need to be laid, windows sourced, doors made and some more tin purchased.

The FFR is at least now under cover but I haven't had much time to do any more work on it. It starts & runs well, except for the noisy exhaust.
I managed to get a NOS silencer which will be used for the full length system and then ultimately for the front exhaust system when I re-fit it (maybe after a roadworthy !). The aim is to put it onto club rego so hopefully the original front mounted system will be easily approved.
I also sourced a new (pattern) brake master cylinder because the plastic reservoir on the old one had started to break down.
4 Wheel Drives list a reservoir but they aren't available any longer, I tried a couple of brake places and found that they are not available and most weren't interested in trying to source one.....

The list of jobs gets longer :-
Check/replace drivers side front wheel bearings.
Check/re-seal drivers side wheel cylinders.
Bleed brakes and hope it all works OK (1 set rear linings were oil soaked).
Replace damaged front passenger side wing (have a replacement).
Replace the seal (O-ring) in the steering box.
Remove brushbar and straighten (may have to take 20t press apart to get the bar in !)
Replace passenger side door (have replacement).
Repair/reseal door tops.
Re-proof the canvas (have a spirit based proofing compound).

Then of course there is the re-upholstery, re-painting, new tyres and the list goes on.

After visiting Corowa this year my kids want me to get the FFR there next year........I'm not making any promises.

Colin

[gromit]

I haven't done anything on the FFR for some time.
I've extended the shed extension to get the 2a under cover, purchased a 1960 109" ute (which is taking up my time) collected a S3 Diesel parts car and finished the rocking horse I was building for one of my daughters but nothing done on the FFR.

I start it and move it every few months but I decided today to do something while waiting for parts for the 109 ute.

I fitted the NOS silencer box. The old one was past saving, looks like the FFR was overfuelling and backfired which has blown out the seams. I might cut off the 2 connections but otherwise it's scrap.
Bled the clutch just to get some fresh fluid into the system. The old fluid was very dirty and it's history unknown.
Next an oil change then drove it around the garden to move the oil around the gearbox, axles etc. Started to run like a dog, coughing & misfiring. Fuel was low so added some to the tank but it didn't improve things.
Something else to investigate.......

Colin

[JohnE]

Colin, your very patient hows it all going, sounds a bit like mine slow and steady.
Now that overfueling your talking about, sounds like a similar problem I had only recently, not overfueling as such but fuel dripping from the carby while it was going, I had put a carby kit through it ages ago and couldn;t understand why. The solution was easy, instead of taking the spare carby out of the cupboard what I did was take the carby off the dinty engine and bolt it on, a bit of idle fiddling and it starts well, doesn;t leak and I haven;t had to take it apart, weird eh.

john


ps I think, if its overfueling its either the jet is really worn, or the float is up too high and the fuel is running into the manifold , the needle and seat are worn ,the pump pressure is too high and its not turning off when the line pressure is reached, but thats all a guess. Some expert may come in and know exactly what it is.But if its backfiring into the muffler, There are a few things that can cause a car to backfire. A few things it could be are, bad timing, incorrect ignition wiring, low fuel pressure, so that is the other side of the coin, seeing you have taken it apart I think it could be something simple like a timing issue....

[gromit]

John,

It's been running fine since the engine overhaul, the reference to overfuelling was relating to the damaged silencer box that was on it. Spoke with the Father-in-law last night and he recons that's more likeley to be coasting downhill with the ignition off then turn it back on to get a backfire (he used to do it when he was younger). Silencer is past saving.

Not sure why it started running rough the other day but I haven't touched the carby on it so maybe time to investigate further. It lost power and then stalled so could be a fuel supply issue, OK at tickover but problems running under load.
I'll just add it to the list of things to do after an oil change for the Defender, brake overhaul on the Series 2 LWB ute, derusting and lining the fuel tank on the Series 1 plus a few things the wife wants done before I go back to work.....

Colin

[gromit]

Moved the FFR to remove the canopy earlier in the week (it's being sent off to get a new roof section sewn in).
Went into the back for the first time since I've owned it and found a new set of spark plugs, some brake shoes, wheel nut brace and an alternator (condition unknown).

I need to overhaul the carby because it still plays up now and again, although checking out the whole fuel system wouldn't hurt.
The motor runs well after hand scraping the wear ridges and fitting new rings I just need to find some time to work on it to get it through a roadworthy.


Colin

[Rob king]

Colin,
Must be something in the air, 2 weeks ago mine was running the same, playing up under load and really running rough like I was missing a couple of cylinders. I checked the fuel filter, the spark plugs, leads points, dizzy etc.... finally dropped a little oil in the [stromberg] carby and all seems to run fine again...Can't say for sure it was the carby but that seemed to fix it.
I hear too that the diaphram can get a hole and cause same symptoms.
I was going to check the coil and replace the condenser next...hopefully it's not one of those intermittent problems!
good luck.
Rob.

[gromit]

Rob,

I have an overhaul kit & diaphragm and I've not looked at the carby since I purchased the vehicle so I guess I'll just add it to the list......
I have to overhaul the carby on the Series II and tune the carby on the Series I so maybe I'll have a carby weekend soon !

Colin

[gromit]

I haven't done much on the FFR for ages, the C240 Isuzu Series III has been taking up my time instead.
At Corowa this weekend I did manage to find 4 radio tables thanks to a fellow FFR owner. Spoke to him about his vehicle and asked where he got the radio tables, "that bloke over there...." he replied. The rest is history.

The canopy has a new roof section now and there isn't that much to do to get it roadworthy just fit the Olympic Steeltreks, fit new windscreens, fit replacement wing, fit replacement master cylinder, straighten the brush bar, sort out the carby problems. OK there are a few things to do......


Colin

[LandroverScott]

I
At Corowa this weekend I did manage to find 4 radio tables thanks to a fellow FFR owner. Spoke to him about his vehicle and asked where he got the radio tables, "that bloke over there...." he replied. The rest is history.




Colin

Hello Colin,

That was me, pleased to meet you, glad I could help.

Regards
Scott

[gromit]

Hello Colin,

That was me, pleased to meet you, glad I could help.

Regards
Scott

Thanks very much Scott, I didn't think at the time to ask if you were a forum member.
Mine's been on the backburner for some time. I did quite a bit of work on the motor then another project came along, then another. My boys were asking if we were coming to Corowa in a Land Rover next year so I need to get the little Isuzu finished and spend some time on the FFR.


Colin

[UncleHo]

G'day Gromit.

I have just read the saga of the S3 FFR,glad to see it is all coming together,but it makes it all the more satisfying when it is finished and you have done most of the work yourself,it took me 6 years on a very limited budget to re-build my 2a GS bent chassis and all,when chasing engine parts don't overlook parts from the Rover car range,P4 P5 series overhead inlet side exhaust,these engines were 3 litre jobs (the 2.6 was an under bored 3) the Aust army used the Bosch distributor/ignition set up from mid 70's Torana's from memory.


For Lucas electrical parts try Kevin Baker up at Witta on the Sunshine Coast in Qld. but don't for get to fit a relay to the head light system it takes all the power drain off that flimsy switch I use a "new era" dual fused relay should be available from REPCO stores,I use and fit them to all of the lighting systems on my Rover vehicles I own and those of my friends, and it improves the lights greatly.


cheers

[gromit]

Decided to move the FFR tables out of the way today, they've been cluttering up the workshop since I got them from Corowa. They needed fixing and I just hadn't got round to it.

They were all slightly damaged, one had the spotwelds torn apart and was in two parts. The others were bent and had one or two spotwelds broken.

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2013/05/230.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/Ww3Z6D)DSCN2390 (https://flic.kr/p/Ww3Z6D) by Colin Radley (https://www.flickr.com/photos/152321353@N07/), on Flickr


I'd asked a couple of customers that had spot welders and they weren't keen on welding aluminium for some reason. Instead I dug out some aircraft aluminium rivets that I aquired about 30 years ago when I worked at Stanstead Airport in the UK. It took a while to locate them but it was straightforward from there....
Drill a 4mm hole, countersink, insert rivet and peen over the back. Wherever practical I put the rivet into the depression left from the original spot weld.

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2013/05/231.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/Vrucso)DSCN2388 (https://flic.kr/p/Vrucso) by Colin Radley (https://www.flickr.com/photos/152321353@N07/), on Flickr


Here are the tables finished and ready to store away. They need cleaning and then a coat of olive drab.

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2013/05/232.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/VucJBT)DSCN2393 (https://flic.kr/p/VucJBT) by Colin Radley (https://www.flickr.com/photos/152321353@N07/), on Flickr


Problem then is that storage space is at a premium so they have been put into the back of the 2a GS temporarily.

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2013/05/233.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/Vru6Ys)DSCN2395 (https://flic.kr/p/Vru6Ys) by Colin Radley (https://www.flickr.com/photos/152321353@N07/), on Flickr




Colin

[gromit]

Long weekend so I decided to do something, however small, on the FFR.

When I got it one of the rear shock absorbers was missing in action.
Dolphint offered me a pair and I finally collected them a few months ago.
Painted them and decided to fit them at the weekend. Initial panic because I didn't have the long bolt the goes through the top mount but it turned up in one of the rear lockers.

The missing one was 'fairly' easy to replace. Top mount was OK but with the bottom by the time you assemble the rubbers & cups there is virtually no thread exposed to get the nut started on. I ended up shaving some rubber off the mounts.
The other side had virtually no rubbers left. The free play had allowed the stud at the bottom of the shocker impact against the spring which had damaged the end (must have made a racket when the previous owner drove it). The nut refused to come off.
Ended up levering out what was left of the rubber, making sure the nut was fully undone and then used the shock absorber like a slide hammer to get the nut off.
The replacement went on without shaving the rubbers.

Shocker in place.

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2013/11/1354.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/Vru4jj)DSCN2779 (https://flic.kr/p/Vru4jj) by Colin Radley (https://www.flickr.com/photos/152321353@N07/), on Flickr

The FFR has a roof over it but the leaves & dust build up inside because the canvas is off (after the roof section was replaced).
I mentioned 'pocket money' and gained some helpers to sweep out the inside.

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2013/11/1355.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/VucD8r)DSCN2762 (https://flic.kr/p/VucD8r) by Colin Radley (https://www.flickr.com/photos/152321353@N07/), on Flickr


It still starts & runs OK then after a while runs like a dog.
Need a few other projects out of the way then I can try and get this one sorted and on the road.

I need to replace the passenger side wing & door plus the bumper & brushbar needs to be straightened. Not sure how I'm going to do the brushbar yet, I don't have an oxy set and I'll have to take the hydraulic press apart to get it in place.....

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2013/11/1356.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/Vuczix)DSCN2784 (https://flic.kr/p/Vuczix) by Colin Radley (https://www.flickr.com/photos/152321353@N07/), on Flickr


Colin

[Lotz-A-Landies]

What a pity about Temora, the outer wing would have been much better than that. Apart from the powder blue civvy colour.

I didn't know it was for a FFR.

I even tried to get a regular attendee to take it back to Melbourne. :(

[gromit]

What a pity about Temora, the outer wing would have been much better than that. Apart from the powder blue civvy colour.

I didn't know it was for a FFR.

I even tried to get a regular attendee to take it back to Melbourne. :(

Diana,

The outer wings I'm after are for the SIII C240 powered shorty, I have a complete wing for the FFR but just haven't had time to fit it.



Colin

[Lotz-A-Landies]

They're still yours if we can get them down to you.

[gromit]

After refusing to start a couple of times (plenty of fuel, no spark) I decided to investigate.
Points were not the best so new ones fitted & gapped, no change.
Noticed the coil got warm quite quickly so then had to work out whether to fit a resistor or non-resistor coil. Original was non resistor but this failed early on so I'd used one from another motor which was a resistor type. There is a strange item in the feed to the coil, not mentioned on the military wiring diagrams.....resistor or suppressor (capacitor) ?
Put a meter in the feed to the coil and left for some minutes with the ignition on, voltage didn't drop so went with the non-resistor coil.
Started first time, I'll leave it running later today and see if it starts to misfire again.

Fitted a new rotor arm, found one from a VW that fits the Bosch distributor fitted to the FFR. Also found a condensor that should fit with a few modifications (originals difficult to obtain), just have to order it in.


Colin

[gromit]

Managed to replace the wing today.

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2013/12/127.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/W8pYNQ)DSCN2866 (https://flic.kr/p/W8pYNQ) by Colin Radley (https://www.flickr.com/photos/152321353@N07/), on Flickr

Not sure about the bumper, might be a quicker option to look for a replacement.

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2013/12/128.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/Vruuv1)DSCN2863 (https://flic.kr/p/Vruuv1) by Colin Radley (https://www.flickr.com/photos/152321353@N07/), on Flickr

I'll de-skin the door and straighten the frame next then try to get the skin back to shape and re-fit.



Colin

[gromit]

Several other projects have got in the way of the FFR. It gets started & moved occasionally but that's about it.

I had an unexpected day off work today (work car problems) so decided to do a couple of those jobs I keep putting off.

Someone had backed it into something and bent the rear crossmember so I thought I'd have a go at straightening it.
First off with the Jerry can holder. The bolts were very rusty and I don't think they've been removed since it was built.

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2016/05/899.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/WHHfsn)DSCN3914 (https://flic.kr/p/WHHfsn) by Colin Radley (https://www.flickr.com/photos/152321353@N07/), on Flickr

Here is the view from underneath.

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2016/05/900.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/VudPzB)DSCN3915 (https://flic.kr/p/VudPzB) by Colin Radley (https://www.flickr.com/photos/152321353@N07/), on Flickr

Backed up to a tree stump and used a Come Along then thumped the buckled part with a big hammer.

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2016/05/901.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/VruYd5)DSCN3919 (https://flic.kr/p/VruYd5) by Colin Radley (https://www.flickr.com/photos/152321353@N07/), on Flickr

The Come Along was at it's limit but after chocking the wheels it did the job OK.

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2016/05/902.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/WHH9kx)DSCN3921 (https://flic.kr/p/WHH9kx) by Colin Radley (https://www.flickr.com/photos/152321353@N07/), on Flickr

I need to remove the corner capping & straighten it out a bit. Difficult to do in situ.

The bumper & brushbar are damaged and I've had no luck finding a replacement bumper so decided to at least straighten it a bit.

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2016/05/903.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/VudVht)DSCN3830 (https://flic.kr/p/VudVht) by Colin Radley (https://www.flickr.com/photos/152321353@N07/), on Flickr

Same stump & Come Along.

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2016/05/904.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/WHH7iM)DSCN3923 (https://flic.kr/p/WHH7iM) by Colin Radley (https://www.flickr.com/photos/152321353@N07/), on Flickr

Plus a Tool I made to bend the top & bottom edges of the bumper.

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2016/05/905.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/WHH5QB)DSCN3925 (https://flic.kr/p/WHH5QB) by Colin Radley (https://www.flickr.com/photos/152321353@N07/), on Flickr

Then off with the damaged drivers door.
Found a temporary one to fit.

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2016/05/906.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/Ww5tax)DSCN3927 (https://flic.kr/p/Ww5tax) by Colin Radley (https://www.flickr.com/photos/152321353@N07/), on Flickr

The canvas has been repaired but because the FFR sits in an open sided shed the blue tarp keeps dust & leaves out and stops the birds sitting on the bows & ****ing into the vehicle.


Colin

[gromit]

Jerry can holder repaired between chores today.

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2016/05/898.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/WsJuCS)DSCN3934 (https://flic.kr/p/WsJuCS) by Colin Radley (https://www.flickr.com/photos/152321353@N07/), on Flickr

Need to get them both shot blasted and re-painted.



Colin

[Johnno_p]

Excellent thread, thanks for all the information.
I'm in Langy and just starting to work on a S3 GS with the 2.6 motor.
Hopefully it wont need as much work

[gromit]

I've been dragging my heels on this one, mainly because of so many other projects, jobs the wife wants done, taking kids to Cubs/Scouts/Venturers etc. etc.

Just had some rims media blasted, then I painted in camoflage green and fitted some Steeltreks.

The drivers door is off and the skin removed to take out a crease, need to get that re-assembled and then painted.
Doortops have been re-painted just need to fit new Bailey channels and re-glaze then onto the brakes.....

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2017/01/1129.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/VrvcD3)DSCN4150 (https://flic.kr/p/VrvcD3) by Colin Radley (https://www.flickr.com/photos/152321353@N07/), on Flickr

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2017/01/1130.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/Ww52jp)IMG_0890 (https://flic.kr/p/Ww52jp) by Colin Radley (https://www.flickr.com/photos/152321353@N07/), on Flickr

Colin

[gromit]

The passenger door is nearly finished.
De-skinned, frame straightened, large dent removed from skin then re-skinned. Doesn't look too bad.
Just need to strip, paint & fit the top capping then re-glaze the doortop.

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2017/01/1127.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/Ww5qKn)DSCN4166 (https://flic.kr/p/Ww5qKn) by Colin Radley (https://www.flickr.com/photos/152321353@N07/), on Flickr

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2017/01/1128.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/WE9PcL)DSCN4201 (https://flic.kr/p/WE9PcL) by Colin Radley (https://www.flickr.com/photos/152321353@N07/), on Flickr



Colin

[gromit]

Found I had some time on my hands tonight so using some leather offcuts I made some seat restraining straps.

There's one strap on each seat base.
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2017/08/235.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/WiFnbQ)DSCN4469 (https://flic.kr/p/WiFnbQ) by Colin Radley (https://www.flickr.com/photos/152321353@N07/), on Flickr

Two straps on each seat back.
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2017/08/236.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/Xs414G)DSCN4472 (https://flic.kr/p/Xs414G) by Colin Radley (https://www.flickr.com/photos/152321353@N07/), on Flickr

I thought I'd also make some straps for the seat bases on my Series I. I have a tool for slitting leather into strips so the offcuts had one straight edge cut and then I reduced them to 7/8" strips.
Then using a Stanley knife, hole punch & a couple of chisels.....the straps slowly appeared.
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2017/08/237.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/Xvr2Hw)DSCN4473 (https://flic.kr/p/Xvr2Hw) by Colin Radley (https://www.flickr.com/photos/152321353@N07/), on Flickr

The more I made the better they got. Finally 9 for the FFR and 4 (only need 3) for the Series I, as I haven't checked the length they aren't cut down yet.
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2017/08/238.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/XvqZFq)DSCN4478 (https://flic.kr/p/XvqZFq) by Colin Radley (https://www.flickr.com/photos/152321353@N07/), on Flickr

I need to get some more leather. I can buy it already slit down to any width I want but by using offcuts the above straps cost less than $3 plus my time & having the tools available.

You can buy them ready made http://www.exmoortrim.co.uk/leather-straps.html but they would have to be cut down for the FFR and they are black not brown as original......

Next....the seatcovers ! I got some green vinyl years ago and have an industrial sewing machine I just need to find the time and enthusiasm.



Colin

[gromit]

Always on the lookout for parts I collected a NOS 6-cyl water pump tonight.

https://farm2.staticflickr.com/1951/44372719064_239633b4fa_c.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/2aB4Msq)DSCN4943 (https://flic.kr/p/2aB4Msq) by Colin Radley (https://www.flickr.com/photos/152321353@N07/), on Flickr

https://farm2.staticflickr.com/1946/43279201780_a1436a9254_c.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/28WrdS9)DSCN4942 (https://flic.kr/p/28WrdS9) by Colin Radley (https://www.flickr.com/photos/152321353@N07/), on Flickr

https://farm2.staticflickr.com/1958/43279207190_5875067d02_c.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/28Wrftq)DSCN4944 (https://flic.kr/p/28Wrftq) by Colin Radley (https://www.flickr.com/photos/152321353@N07/), on Flickr


Brass or bronze impeller and the fat O-ring has the copper support 'washer' inside.

County brand who were around before **itpart & Bearmach from memory.


Colin

[gromit]

Due to having free time since Covid 19 I've been working on the FFR occasionally.
This has been a long term project with no rush.....

Painted a replacement brushbar (original bent), straightened the bumper & front airlift points and painted.
Steering box removed and O-ring replaced. Found a few loose bolts from the previous owner !!

Then decided I need to work my way round the brakes again. Three were done years back but I didn't strip the swivel hubs so time to pull the axles apart, replace seals etc.

I'm working in an open sided shed with no lights so it's a case of remove parts during the day, move parts to another shed and strip/paint/re-assemble then back to the open shed to re-fit. It also entails a lot of walking backwards & forwards because there is always a tool I've forgotten.

I ended up replacing the UJ in the drivers side half-shaft, both wheel bearings and the swivel hub seal.

Currently checking out the steering track rods and then onto the other side of the front axle......


Colin



Colin

[gromit]

Passenger side swivel hub stripped, cleaned & ready for paint.
Lots of bolts to clean, threads to clean out (some blocked with plugs of silicon). Half a kilo of oily mud scraped off before I could degrease everything.

Needs a new swivel seal and I had to replace the Railko bush and pin. Just at the limit of my 20tonne press pressing it out and had to use some heat to fit the replacement.
With all the front axles I've overhauled this is the first Railko bush I've had to replace, the pin had rusted and worn the bush quite badly. Happened to have a bush & pin in stock......

This swivel hub is earlier than the drivers side. The seal retainer bolts are BSF whereas the other side was UNF.
Drive shaft seemed OK so once everything is painted it's re-assemble, re-shim and down the back shed to re-install.



Colin

[gromit]

Front hubs done, steering box back in place.
Refitting the brackets that hold the steering column to the bulkhead was 'fun'. Not a lot of room but fortunately I was removing the master cylinder & booster anyway.

Pedal box stripped out & painted. Interestingly found that if the pedal is fully depressed an oil hole lines up with a hole in the pedal box (has a plastic blanking plug fitted). I countersunk the hole to give it a better chance of catching oil as it's dripped in (as if I or anyone else will be lubricating the pedal pivot !).

Tonight I took the master cylinder apart as I have a repair kit in stock. Someone has attacked the pistons with Vice Grips or similar and there has been some corrosion internally. There is a small pin that holds one of the two pistons in position, this has been damaged and inserted when the piston was in the wrong position damaging a seal and the seal support plate (fortunately new ones in the repair kit).
I have enough parts to fix it and the corrosion seems to be between where the seals sit in the bore, problem is the damaged pin so it looks like I might have to make one. Instead I headed down the back shed and found a new master cylinder I sourced from India (about US$25) some time back, a mate who imports from India included it in one of his shipments. Took it apart and it looks identical even down to the nylon 'circlip' that holds the outer piston in place so I'll fit that instead.
I fitted a new Girling reservoir that I sourced from the UK years back. Where it sits close to the gap between bonnet & wing UV light gradually breaks down the plastic and it goes all powdery. I replaced one on Wallit which died in the same manner.

Need to re-fit the steering wheel and cowling so I can re-attach the link arm to the steering relay in the correct position then on to stripping out the rear hubs & brakes.


Colin

[gromit]

Lockdown is a PITA, keep running out of things and difficult to source parts at the moment.

I need some insertion rubber to make a gasket for the pedal box, usually 'in stock' but I'd run out. Maybe I'll fit the pedal box in a few weeks time !

Went to fit the steering damper, no rubbers. I have a new steering damper in stock but I'd already pinched the rubbers from that so need to order some.

Rear brake shoes had been covered in oil, fortunately I found some re-lined shoes in the shed. I'll have to get the oil covered ones re-lined at some point in the future.

Picture attached of the Indian master cylinder fitted with a new Girling reservoir and the innards of the original.
I made a pin for the old master cylinder from a nail which will do the job perfectly. For those that are old enough, I found a box of nails purchased in the UK in the days when you paid for them by weight. Filled a bag and they were weighed when you went to pay.
Modified the head slightly (it was too big & too shallow), cut to length and it's as good as a new one.
I'm sure someone reading this will be having kittens over using a nail to fix a master cylinder !

Had a good look down the bore of the old master cylinder and I think it really needs sleeving. The rust pitting is quite bad in two spots so I'll use the Indian one for now.

Offside (drivers side) hub stripped & degreased ready for prep & paint.


Colin

[DieselDan]

If you still need insertion rubber, Colin, then pm me your address and I can post you some.
Got **** loads of off cuts, just give me dimensions and I'll see what I've got.

[gromit]

If you still need insertion rubber, Colin, then pm me your address and I can post you some.
Got **** loads of off cuts, just give me dimensions and I'll see what I've got.

Thanks Dan.

Colin

[gromit]

Brake pedal box re-fitted, managed to get material from Clark Rubber to make a gasket (but thanks Dan for offering to help).
Managed to get steering damper rubbers from SE Auto Imports (was Four Wheel Drives). Still selling LR parts but via website or Ebay, no personal callers (looks like they may have moved again).

Drivers side rear hub back together with new shoes, new hub seal and a coat of paint.
Crawled underneath this afternoon and fitted a replacement rear brake flexible hose. Four Wheel Drives used to keep extra long ones which suit military Land Rovers, can probably still get them from SE Auto.

One more hub to overhaul and then it's time to see if I can get the brakes working.


Colin

[gromit]

Contacted SE Auto and got the longer rear axle straps.
Originals were canvas folded twice to give three layers, must have been glued together as I can't see any stitching. All of my Land Rovers, even the Series I, have had the same canvas straps. The replacements are a thick conveyor belt type material with the edges sealed.

Getting close to bleeding the brakes, keep finding other jobs on other vehicles.

Then I need to get some doors on the shed and fit some windows so I can seriously think about re-fitting the canopy. I had the roof section replaced years back and haven't looked at the canopy since I got it back.


Colin

[gromit]

Brakes now bled & working.
Managed to bleed them on my own then moved the FFR to the main driveway so I could adjust the brakes. First applied the brakes hard several times to centralise the shoes then adjusted.

The rear brake shoes have the pins for the adjusters in the same position on both shoes (no difference between leading or trailing shoe), they adjusted up OK. While going through the shoes I have 'in stock' I found that the pattern ones had about 20% less lining than the originals !!
The shoes I fitted were from an Australian supplier that re-line shoes locally and get the shoes re-made. Somewhere along the track the adjuster pins have been specified to be in the same position.....interestingly they adjust OK.

Removed the temporary (years ago) fitted passenger door and fitted the re-painted door and refurbished door top. Then removed the drivers door and fitted a temporary one. Also did some panel beating on a crease in the body just behind the passenger door.
Bottom edge of the door I removed had been bogged. Removed this and think I can get away with a couple of patches rather than de-skinning, replacing the frame lower section, then re-skinning. I'll pour some paint into the frame and spread it around to try and hold back further corrosion.
Door top already refurbished and ready to fit once I've repaired & painted the door bottom.
Checking round the sheds I found that I've acquired a few doors over the years, all need repairs and not one good doortop among them. also found a couple of good Station Wagon rear passenger doors, I must repair a couple of holes in them so they can be spares for the Dormobile.

Removed the covers over the bellhousing. A couple of cracks to weld up and some panel beating where someone in the past has levered them off. Also removed the passenger floor which looks like it had been hit underneath with a stick when offroading.

Need to head outside and tidy up the garden after the wind last night, now where's that chainsaw.....


Colin

[4bee]

Brakes now bled & working.
Managed to bleed them on my own then moved the FFR to the main driveway so I could adjust the brakes. First applied the brakes hard several times to centralise the shoes then adjusted.

The rear brake shoes have the pins for the adjusters in the same position on both shoes (no difference between leading or trailing shoe), they adjusted up OK. While going through the shoes I have 'in stock' I found that the pattern ones had about 20% less lining than the originals !!
The shoes I fitted were from an Australian supplier that re-line shoes locally and get the shoes re-made. Somewhere along the track the adjuster pins have been specified to be in the same position.....interestingly they adjust OK.

Removed the temporary (years ago) fitted passenger door and fitted the re-painted door and refurbished door top. Then removed the drivers door and fitted a temporary one. Also did some panel beating on a crease in the body just behind the passenger door.
Bottom edge of the door I removed had been bogged. Removed this and think I can get away with a couple of patches rather than de-skinning, replacing the frame lower section, then re-skinning. I'll pour some paint into the frame and spread it around to try and hold back further corrosion.
Door top already refurbished and ready to fit once I've repaired & painted the door bottom.
Checking round the sheds I found that I've acquired a few doors over the years, all need repairs and not one good doortop among them. also found a couple of good Station Wagon rear passenger doors, I must repair a couple of holes in them so they can be spares for the Dormobile.

Removed the covers over the bellhousing. A couple of cracks to weld up and some panel beating where someone in the past has levered them off. Also removed the passenger floor which looks like it had been hit underneath with a stick when offroading.

Need to head outside and tidy up the garden after the wind last night, now where's that chainsaw.....


Colin

It appears you have Land Rovers coming out of the woodwork.[bigrolf]


Remember, it will all be worth it, one day.

[gromit]

I'm back at work full time now so less time to spend working on Land Rovers but at least there is now some daylight left when I get home at night.

Managed to paint the drivers door bottom, bellhousing covers and floor panels plus a couple of parts for the IIa. The shed is 'busy' at the best of times but with all the parts hanging to dry I'll find somewhere else to work for a day or so.
The Protec paint is touch dry quickly but being enamel takes a while to fully cure.


Colin

[gromit]

I've been deliberating over the seat covers. I have the vinyl and also some thin foam and really want to sew ribs as they were originally done.
I keep putting it off so instead decided to re-fit the bumper & brushbar today.
The bumper was straightened and along with the brushbar was painted ages ago just haven't found the time to re-fit.

First problem, the ignition switch jammed. Whatever I did it wouldn't turn !
OK, time to strip the covers around the steering column and remove the switch (it's a rotary one, no key, as originally fitted). Found the hole which allows you to release the rotary knob, knob came out and the spring and small disc of metal that holds it in place to extend the pin were deposited into the footwell !!!.
Make note of wiring colours/pin numbers and remove switch,

First job, get the spring back into the rotary knob, stick the tiny disc in place and peen material over to hold it in place. After a few curses move on to the ignition switch.
The switch is not designed to come apart but by bending back 3 tabs it sprung apart (bugger) and I found that it had ingested water in a previous life and was corroded internally.
Cleaned it then had several goes to get it back together, a few bits of plastic broke off the body but it sort of went back together after some more cursing.
It sort of works, managed to get the FFR started and move it out of the shed.

Next problem, where are the bumper bolts ? Eventually found some new ones and used them instead.

Brushbar fitted after cleaning up the bolt threads, then with a small paintbrush applied some olive drab to all the bolt heads.

Now need to look for a replacement ignition switch.


Colin

[4bee]

I've been deliberating over the seat covers. I have the vinyl and also some thin foam and really want to sew ribs as they were originally done.
I keep putting it off so instead decided to re-fit the bumper & brushbar today.
The bumper was straightened and along with the brushbar was painted ages ago just haven't found the time to re-fit.

First problem, the ignition switch jammed. Whatever I did it wouldn't turn !
OK, time to strip the covers around the steering column and remove the switch (it's a rotary one, no key, as originally fitted). Found the hole which allows you to release the rotary knob, knob came out and the spring and small disc of metal that holds it in place to extend the pin were deposited into the footwell !!!.
Make note of wiring colours/pin numbers and remove switch,

First job, get the spring back into the rotary knob, stick the tiny disc in place and peen material over to hold it in place. After a few curses move on to the ignition switch.
The switch is not designed to come apart but by bending back 3 tabs it sprung apart (bugger) and I found that it had ingested water in a previous life and was corroded internally.
Cleaned it then had several goes to get it back together, a few bits of plastic broke off the body but it sort of went back together after some more cursing.
It sort of works, managed to get the FFR started and move it out of the shed.

Next problem, where are the bumper bolts ? Eventually found some new ones and used them instead.

Brushbar fitted after cleaning up the bolt threads, then with a small paintbrush applied some olive drab to all the bolt heads.

Now need to look for a replacement ignition switch.


Colin

I can't assist with your immediate problem Colin, but at the very least I can offer commiserations. I had strife with the old S2A bulkhead mounted push Starter switch which sprung/sprang apart. Seems you need about 5 hands/25 fingers to fit these riveted assemblies back together. My one was ok for a while but I had strong suspicions about it's life so eventually ordered a new one which in turn failed under Warranty which was freely replaced without an argument or requiring the faulty one back.

Feels like it should now & slides easily. Some sellers reject any warranty on any Electrical Parts but I doubt whether that is legal these days. It was a Britpart component.

Best wishes with yours.

[gromit]

I think I've tracked down the part number for the ignition switch.
There seem to be identical looking switches but some are 4-position, some are 3-position.

I'm after a 3-position OFF, ON, START. The 4-position has another position anti clockwise (can't remove the key in this position).
Part Number 3-position seems to be Lucas 31973.

Most other numbers I've found are for the 4-position switch.


Colin

[4bee]

I think I've tracked down the part number for the ignition switch.
There seem to be identical looking switches but some are 4-position, some are 3-position.

I'm after a 3-position OFF, ON, START. The 4-position has another position anti clockwise (can't remove the key in this position).
Part Number 3-position seems to be Lucas 31973.

Most other numbers I've found are for the 4-position switch.


Colin

You can see the sense of the Army not having an ignition Key.

"Right lads we are evacuating this position urgently. Now, who has the key?[bigrolf]

"Not me Sir". "Nor me, Sir but I think Smithy had it last, but lost it down the Latrine."


Your persistence will pay off, Colin. (Dips lid)[smilebigeye]

[gromit]

Your persistence will pay off, Colin. (Dips lid)[smilebigeye]

As you can see from the beginning of this thread it's taking a while.

Several vehicles to keep on-the-road, trying to restore/re-commission several others, kids getting cars and wanting help. Still it's a hobby, keeps me out in the shed away from SWMBO.....


Colin

[4bee]

As you can see from the beginning of this thread it's taking a while.

Several vehicles to keep on-the-road, trying to restore/re-commission several others, kids getting cars and wanting help. Still it's a hobby, keeps me out in the shed away from SWMBO.....


Colin


A good plan that. They always seem to find extraneous jobs, not even remotely connected to LRs.[bigrolf]

[gromit]

Finally got round to starting on the seats.
Made templates and sourced materials some time back.

New bases in slightly thicker exterior grade plywood, originals were thinner and some made of Masonite which had bowed.
New hardwood support for the rear, new rubbers for the front and a new leather retaining strap.

I'll do the bases first then get on to the backs. Also need to make seat pads for the jump seats at the rear, backs are there but seat pads missing.

The colour isn't as bright as it looks in the photos.


Colin

[4bee]

Finally got round to starting on the seats.
Made templates and sourced materials some time back.

New bases in slightly thicker exterior grade plywood, originals were thinner and some made of Masonite which had bowed.
New hardwood support for the rear, new rubbers for the front and a new leather retaining strap.

I'll do the bases first then get on to the backs. Also need to make seat pads for the jump seats at the rear, backs are there but seat pads missing.

The colour isn't as bright as it looks in the photos.


Colin


Do you have a Sample Rear Seat, Colin? I can help you there with Description & Dimensions if necessary.

[gromit]

Do you have a Sample Rear Seat, Colin? I can help you there with Description & Dimensions if necessary.

Thanks,
I have a sample rear seat from a GS so easy to work out what's needed.
Just need some strong tie downs so the seat bases don't fly away when the canopy is rolled up.

Colin

[4bee]

Thanks,
I have a sample rear seat from a GS so easy to work out what's needed.
Just need some strong tie downs so the seat bases don't fly away when the canopy is rolled up.

Colin



Do you realise the Genuine LR seats already have light rope tie downs in the rear corners that attach to the uprights of the backrest frame?


These are knotted through the eyelet in the small flat flange of the seat cushions.

[gromit]

Do you realise the Genuine LR seats already have light rope tie downs in the rear corners that attach to the uprights of the backrest frame?

These are knotted through the eyelet in the small flat flange of the seat cushions.

Yes, military rear seats have a flange with eyelets, I already have eyelets to fit.

I've never seen a base c/w the rope tie downs. I have a couple of GS bases and no sign of a tie down, they must have got lost in service.
Most vehicles I've seen are missing the seat cushions.


Colin

[4bee]

Yes, military rear seats have a flange with eyelets, I already have eyelets to fit.

I've never seen a base c/w the rope tie downs. I have a couple of GS bases and no sign of a tie down, they must have got lost in service.
Most vehicles I've seen are missing the seat cushions.


Colin
have light rope tie downs in the rear corners that attach to the uprights of the backrest frame?

NB..They are not visible as a special Tie down point but are the Vertical frame at the ends of the seat cushion backrest frame. That's what the ones in my Sig. Sqdn were used for & some on my 88 civvy are the same. I always believed they were OEM Land Rover. They do the job well.


Put rope around & tie ends together.

[gromit]

Sealed the floor panels back down and fitted some rubber matting (should get round to taking the rag off the clutch & brake pedals).

Managed to get some 'checker plate' rubber matting from a local supplier, $30 for enough to do two vehicles. Out with the cornflake packets to make templates !

Fitted a replacement battery today, as it's not on the road yet it tends to get cast offs from the daily driver. The one fitted was 10 years old and struggled to turn it over.




Colin

[drfish]

Its looking good Colin

Cheers, Matt

[gromit]

Doesn't time fly by....
I'd been busy working on the Dormobile, the FFR (and other Land Rovers) does get started and moved occasionally but I haven't done anything towards getting it back on-the-road for quite some time.

Went to do some work on the milling machine and found a project I'd started a while back, a compressor for the FFR starter motor bendix spring. I'd been given a 6-cyl motor and the starter was in good condition, the one fitted to the FFR struggles sometimes.

The steel discs came from a customer's scrap bin, tough stuff as they are 4140 HT steel. I needed to drill & tap holes for 3 cap head screws so I'd set up the rotary table on the mill but then moved on to other projects.
Drilled and tapped the holes, purchased some cap head screws & HT washers and I was able to remove the Bendix spring, clean off the rust, apply graphite powder & re-assemble.
Now to find time to swap the starter motor but in the meantime back to the mill to work on the overdrive for the Dormobile.

Colin

[gromit]

Bled the brakes & clutch over Christmas then the master cylinder decided to leak !

Turns out the two spigots on the master cylinder reservoir that fit into rubber seals had pushed the seals away and hadn't sealed.
Off with the master cylinder, fix the problem then re-install and next time it's out of the shed bleed the brakes again.

Then spent some time chasing electrical issues, still trying to find where the brake light signal is disappearing. I have a horrible feeling it's a break in the wiring section inside the chassis rail !
More investigation needed.

Re-fitted the Jerry can holders and made seals for the reverse lights from some thin closed cell foam.


Colin

[4bee]

Bled the brakes & clutch over Christmas then the master cylinder decided to leak !

Turns out the two spigots on the master cylinder reservoir that fit into rubber seals had pushed the seals away and hadn't sealed.
Off with the master cylinder, fix the problem then re-install and next time it's out of the shed bleed the brakes again.

Then spent some time chasing electrical issues, still trying to find where the brake light signal is disappearing. I have a horrible feeling it's a break in the wiring section inside the chassis rail !
More investigation needed.

Re-fitted the Jerry can holders and made seals for the reverse lights from some thin closed cell foam.





Colin

Can you bypass that cable with a single wire for now just to test?

[gromit]

Can you bypass that cable with a single wire for now just to test?

I've effectively done that.
Checked power at the start and provided power to the rear connector and the brake lights come on.
When I get time I need to see if the break is where it goes into or comes out of the chassis so it could be repaired.
Otherwise I'll make up a new harness and use the old one to pull it through.


Colin

[4bee]

I've effectively done that.
Checked power at the start and provided power to the rear connector and the brake lights come on.
When I get time I need to see if the break is where it goes into or comes out of the chassis so it could be repaired.
Otherwise I'll make up a new harness and use the old one to pull it through.


Colin Great, the ends do seem to be a bit vulnerable if hit by a rock or summat & add to that, that cable seems to be very brittle with age. [bighmmm]

[gromit]

Rolling around under the FFR trying to resolve one problem I found another.....

Noticed oil dribbling from behind the transmission brake !!
At least the 'catcher' on the inside was doing it's job keeping oil away from the drum & shoes.

Propshaft out, strip the handbrake drum & mounting off, replace seal (stock item). Quick repaint of the drum and re-install everything......

Brake light wiring is intact, it seems to be the switch in the brake hydraulic line. The signal goes though a pressure switch, a mechanical switch and is also affected by turning on the Blackout Lights.

The pressure switch isn't a standard Land Rover item so more investigation needed.


Colin

[gromit]

The FFR came with a crack across the drivers side windscreen.
No etched marking so I assumed someone had just got some laminated glass cut to size.

Removed the frame. screens are 'in stock' (ordered from Paddocks), also have the butyl rubber strip to install them.
The drivers side will go in the skip at work, the passenger side has one 'bullseye' low down so I'll probably keep it for the time being.

Sorted out some bolts and installed the radio tables. These were purchased at Corowa years ago.

A few small issues to fix and then I can get the canopy back on


Colin

[TonyC]

Hi Colin,

What colour would it have been in it's army days?

The plain green of the door, or the camo of the rest of it?

Tony

[gromit]

Hi Colin,

What colour would it have been in it's army days?

The plain green of the door, or the camo of the rest of it?

Tony

Hi Tony,
It was camo.
The doors have been de-skinned , repaired, re-skinned & painted (post #62).

The aim, long term, is to re-paint in camo.

Colin

[gromit]

Showers most of yesterday.
Managed to get on the roof & clear the spouting before the showers started in earnest then decided to work on the FFR.

I've just installed some raised upper seatbelt mounts on my IIa GS, seemed only fair that I installed some on the FFR.
Lots of trips up & down the garden, FFR at one end of the property and tools in the garage at the other end.

As I'm installing inertia reel seatbelts I then had to decide how/where to mount the 'reel'.
Worked out a solution and with the aid of a Cornflakes packet made templates. As expected the brackets need to be slightly different each side !
Brackets made from 3mm steel, just need to remove the filler neck to fine tune the drivers side bracket, I'll then drill holes and weld a 7/16" UNF nut on the bracket for the reel to mount.
A quick coat of olive drab and it'll look like it's always been there. I'll also brush paint all those shiny nuts & bolts.


Colin

[gromit]

Ordered inertia reel seatbelts from the UK last week.
Left on Thursday, arrived today !

Included a few other items to spread the freight costs.


Colin

[gromit]

I recently acquired a spare 6-cylinder motor but there was a spark plug sheared off in the head.

After multiple attempts I finally removed the threaded section of the plug but the seat was quite damaged....how to get into the recess to clean it up ?
Eventually I came up with the idea of a counterbore cutter.
A 14mm version had the correct diameter but the pilot was for a 14mm clearance hole (14.3mm) rather than the root diameter of the 14mm plug thread. I ordered a cutter from China via Ebay.
After speaking to a couple of people I thought the pilot would have to be ground down but I'm obviously out of touch...a customer said he'd turn it down with a ceramic tipped tool.

Pilot turned down but the sparkplug is recessed in the head so I needed to make up an extension. I found some 4140 hollow bar at work (used for guide rods on pneumatic cylinders). Drilled one end for an interference fit and cross-drilled for a tommy bar. I could have cut the hollow bar down but didn't bother.

Easy to manually clean the plug seats, I also used it on another head that had been left with the plugs removed to clear out dirt & corrosion in the plug recess.

Colin

[gromit]

I spent a few hours chasing an electrical issue at the weekend.
Basically the brake lights don't work.

While playing I found that the blackout switch is 'intermittent', I lost indicators but wriggling the blackout switch got them back.
What's odd is that I can only get power to the brake light switch when blackout lights are selected. I'm not sure if the brake lights should work when blackout is selected and it's the switch or whether it's been connected incorrectly. I think it must be the switch as the chap I got it from had it registered and on-the-road.

Next problem is that power leaves the brake light switch but doesn't get to the rear of the vehicle.

Looks like I might be pulling the harness out of the chassis ! I guess if I tie some cord to the harness and pull it out I can, hopefully, pull it back through when I've fixed the problem.

I've found a company that sell automotive electrical wiring at a reasonable cost (cheaper than Ebay) the only colour they can't get at the moment is green with a purple trace - brake light wiring !

Next I need to see if I can repair the blackout light switch or find a replacement (yes, I know it probably should be disabled).


Colin

[gromit]

I've found a company that sell automotive electrical wiring at a reasonable cost (cheaper than Ebay) the only colour they can't get at the moment is green with a purple trace - brake light wiring !



I've found the correct wire, I contacted Tycab and they put me onto a supplier in QLD.
About $14 for a 30mtr roll plus GST & shipping, cheaper that where I was getting it from !

Colin

[gromit]

I was getting ready to strip all the wires out of the chassis when.......I found that there are two wires that are green with a purple trace (brake lights) going in to & out of the chassis.

I then worked out that there are two brake light switches, one (that I was checking) is only used when blackout lights are selected. It seems to go to the NATO socket rather than the brake lights themselves.
I can't see reference to this in the wiring diagram I found on the REMLR forum.

Wriggled the wires on the 'other' brake light switch and they are now working !

While checking the electrics in general i found I couldn't get the instrument lights to work. Turns out that it was a dodgy contact in the switch, flicked it on & off a few times and it works. Must get some LED globes so that the instruments actually light up !

Next I removed the blue tarp thats been keeping dirt/dust out of the back, then went for a hunt through the loft looking for the canopy. I sent it away years ago to have a new roof panel fitted and stored it in the loft, out of the way.
Managed to get the canopy roughly fitted, need to look at a few pictures taken when I first got the FFR to see how it needs to be tied down, I think there might be some notes on REMLR. Hopefully the creases slowly come out.

I hunted down some radiator & heater hoses purchased years ago so the next job is drain & flush the cooling system & replace hoses. I'll do a service at the same time and check oil levels.


Colin

[gromit]

I drained the coolant, replaced the hoses then found the heater valve wasn't working.

You can get a replacement valve made for a Ford, you just have to move a few parts to match the Land Rover setup.
I have a new valve 'in stock' but managed to loosen off the original so I'll re-fit it and check it doesn't leak. The Ford one was $75 some years ago, purchased for my SWB but not yet fitted !

I have some NOS heater hoses but decided not to fit them, the ones fitted seem OK.

Coolant was replaced and the motor run with the heater ON to get air out of the system.

Getting close to some road trials......the paint can wait.


Colin

[Lotz-A-Landies]

Hi Colin

You are being resilient with posting updates on your FFR but without many replies, good work.

Given that you don't have the front exhaust, is there any reason to keep the muffler guard below the front bumper? Or just for originality. On my SIII FFR (which hasn't been out of its shed in a while) I have the guard but it is protecting a non functioning front exhaust (for appearances [biggrin] )

On the exhaust valves, my late mate Gary Cooke (ex-RAEME craftsman) re-cut the exhaust valve seats and fitted valves from a Rover V8 same diameter shafts but larger head, he also had to use hardened spacers under the springs. This gave better exhaust gas flow reducing the tendency to burn the valves on pot 5 and 6.

[Lotz-A-Landies]

I've found the correct wire, I contacted Tycab and they put me onto a supplier in QLD.
About $14 for a 30mtr roll plus GST & shipping, cheaper that where I was getting it from !

Colin

I don't know if its the same supplier, but I get my supplies of colour coded automotive wire from Rapid Cables Wiring Solutions Australia | Automotive Cable Harness & Wiring Looms (https://www.rapidcables.com.au/)

[gromit]

I don't know if its the same supplier, but I get my supplies of colour coded automotive wire from Rapid Cables Wiring Solutions Australia | Automotive Cable Harness & Wiring Looms (https://www.rapidcables.com.au/)

Thanks,
I used Camerons Electrical Cables & Accessories (CECA)
T: (07) 3865 1122
E: sales@ceca.au

It was approx $14 for 30mtrs plus freight & GST

Locally it was closer to $20 but it was Australian Tycab cable, not sure where the cable from Camerons was produced.

Colin

[gromit]

Hi Colin

You are being resilient with posting updates on your FFR but without many replies, good work.

Given that you don't have the front exhaust, is there any reason to keep the muffler guard below the front bumper?
.

Hi Diana,
I do have the front exhaust ! It was removed by the previous owner to get it through a roadworthy but was supplied when I purchased it.

Once I have the paintwork finished and some road trials completed I'll quite possibly re-fit it. I'll keep the full length system in case I sell it in the future.

Everyone has moved to Facebook so very little traffic here and even less on REMLR !
Mind you, I got my son to post some parts for sale on one of the Series Facebook groups and what a waste of time. People telling me (via him) that prices were too high, can you take more pictures etc. etc. No serious buyers.

I purchased a job lot of parts and have a lot of odd things like NOS conrods, NOS diff pinion gears, gears in Army boxes. Several axles have been purchased to get good diffs then I ended up with about 4 more diffs plus two 4 pinion diffs. There are still 6 or 7 axles under cover in the back garden. I'll have to list all this stuff at some point.


Colin

[TonyC]

Hi Colin,
Don't think that not many replies = no interest!

I always look forward to reading the updates to your vehicles, to see the progress ticking along.

Tony

[Lotz-A-Landies]

not trying to suggest no interest, just no banter. I've been absent from AULRO for a long while and the lack of comments to colin's updates struck me as disappointing, but maybe I'm very wrong, I have been before.

As to Facebook, I absolutely abhor the platform, I find it lacking usefulness. Hence I'm not on it.

[gromit]

Hi Colin,
Don't think that not many replies = no interest!

I always look forward to reading the updates to your vehicles, to see the progress ticking along.

Tony

Thanks Tony.
It's probably more when I post a Wanted or For Sale advert and I don't get a single reply it makes me wonder why I'm on the forum still.
To be fair I've made several good friends via AULRO and between us we trade/swap parts and help one another out.

The thread on my Isuzu C240 powered shorty has had quite a few views (over 212,000) but there's not much to add at the moment as it sits on the driveway unused....I must use it to get to work on Friday.

I need to get back onto the Dormobile but the idea was to get one of the Military LR's to Corowa next year. The FFR will hopefully get there !


Colin

[TonyC]

Thanks Tony.
It's probably more when I post a Wanted or For Sale advert and I don't get a single reply it makes me wonder why I'm on the forum still.
To be fair I've made several good friends via AULRO and between us we trade/swap parts and help one another out.

The thread on my Isuzu C240 powered shorty has had quite a few views (over 212,000) but there's not much to add at the moment as it sits on the driveway unused....I must use it to get to work on Friday.

I need to get back onto the Dormobile but the idea was to get one of the Military LR's to Corowa next year. The FFR will hopefully get there !


Colin

Maybe I'll finally pull my finger out and get to Corowa, and put a face to a name.

Tony

[123rover50]

Thanks Tony.
It's probably more when I post a Wanted or For Sale advert and I don't get a single reply it makes me wonder why I'm on the forum still.
To be fair I've made several good friends via AULRO and between us we trade/swap parts and help one another out.

The thread on my Isuzu C240 powered shorty has had quite a few views (over 212,000) but there's not much to add at the moment as it sits on the driveway unused....I must use it to get to work on Friday.

I need to get back onto the Dormobile but the idea was to get one of the Military LR's to Corowa next year. The FFR will hopefully get there !


Colin

I know what you mean Colin.
Someone wanted some front axle parts for a Perentie on here . I replied with what I had available and did not get a response back.
Its not like it used to be but I am not restoring any more. Losing incentive. Eighty next birthday and slowing down.
Still got a 50 and a 57 shorty here but I cant see me doing anything with them. Its enough keeping up with my daily drives, the 2a FC, 92 Disco and the other 57 shorty hard top with a 200tdi I use the most.
O well thats life.
Keith

[Lionelgee]

Hi Colin,
Don't think that not many replies = no interest!

I always look forward to reading the updates to your vehicles, to see the progress ticking along.

Tony

Hello Colin and Tony,

I fully agree with Tony - every time I see a post on one of your threads I take time to read through it. Just realised I should be pressing 'Like" too. Just a good read with some very handy tips and tricks with the odd record of a travail. Reading the posts are always an enjoyable occasion.

Regards
Lionel

[Lotz-A-Landies]

I visited 2 more engine reco companies today (the beauty of being paid to drive around for a living).

1st one couldn't track down rings but found that rings from a Holden grey motor are within 1thou of the OD and wider than the original. This opens the option of getting the pistons machined to accept non-std rings (shame it's from a Holden though).
I now have details of someone who can quote for doing it and should have a price soon.

<snip>

Colin
Colin

Have you tried Ian Cox in the UK, he holds spares for most of the series Rover engines. He has helped me out enormously with 1600 Series 1 engines and does complete 2 1/4 engines Home - Cox and Turner (https://www.coxandturner.co.uk/)

[gromit]

Colin

Have you tried Ian Cox in the UK, he holds spares for most of the series Rover engines. He has helped me out enormously with 1600 Series 1 engines and does complete 2 1/4 engines Home - Cox and Turner (https://www.coxandturner.co.uk/)

Diana,
This was resolved years ago, NOS rings shipped from Canada if I remember correctly.

I recently collected a NOS set of pistons, big end shells and main bearing shells so I have the parts to reco a 6-cylinder in the future if needed.

Colin

[gromit]

Tidied up the front end today.
I'd removed the tool holders and Tac plates and they got painted separately. I'll re-fit them when the paint has hardened.
Next the bonnet & then re-instate the camo pattern.

Colin

[gromit]

Tidied up the rear end today.
A quick rub down and masked up ready to spray with low lustre green.

Someone had hacked a couple of drain holes in the rear, if water gets into the back there is nowhere for it to drain out.......well there is actually !
When the TAC plates are removed there are drain holes hidden behind them, problem is the inside was blocked with mud/dust. Not knowing they were there a previous owner added drain holes. One sits behind the rego plate the other is 'on display'.

Picture attached shows the original drain holes in Red and the additional holes in Blue.

Just the sides & bonnet to tidy up & then re-instate the camo pattern.

Colin

[gromit]

A bit more done on the FFR at the weekend.
Fitted the canvas strip the bonnet closes against, I managed to buy a few metres of the 'dogbone' strip from a veteran car supplier in the UK a few years back.

Problem is that you need to separate the wing from the front panel a bit at the top to tuck the end down so it's retained.
One side was OK the other side took an angle grinder and some ingenuity to remove over-length rusty bolts.

Front blackout lights fitted & wired up.

Bonnet off so I can re-paint the camo pattern then I noticed a brake fluid leak, I've had problems with the master cylinder in the past, looks like I have to re-visit !


Colin

[gromit]

Bonnet painted yesterday.

The screws that hold the latch on the front corners of the bonnet had rusted out (see picture).
The rusted section is inside one of the bonnet ribs.
Couldn't find slotted UNF screws, ended up with M6 slotted 304 stainless screws. That'll stop them rusting away....probably the aluminium will corrode instead !

I've had master cylinder problems for some time.
Early on I'd fitted a new reservoir but it hadn't engaged properly in the rubber seals in the top of the master cylinder.
Fixed that and kept getting leaks from the outlet for the front brakes.
Had a look again today and it looked like the flare at the end of the pipe might be the problem so I decided to make a new pipe as the old one was rusty in a couple of places. A bit fiddly getting the bends & angles correct, test fitted before fitting the master cylinder fitting & flaring, removed and adjusted length before fitting the tube nut & flaring.
Installed and seemed OK, topped up, went to bleed the brakes and leaks from the same fitting again !!!

The master cylinder fitted was from India, a direct purchase via a mate who brings in products.
If you follow my IIa GS thread you'll have read that I'd found a st/st sleeved master cylinder for a Series III in amongst the spares that came with it. I'd re-sealed & painted it then put it into 'stock'.
Checked the threads and compared to the Indian one and low & behold the thread in the Indian one was deeper....the tube nut was bottoming out on it's threads and not sealing against the flare !

Removed the Indian one and transferred the reservoir. Fitted the st/st sleeved one, filled with Dot 3 & brakes bled without further issue.

Bonnet re-fitted then I'd had enough for the day.


Colin

[gromit]

Camo pattern 'refreshed' at the weekend and started making a list of minor things to fix.
Replace wiper arms & blades, check windscreen washer works, adjust handbrake .......

Then....two major limbs off trees in the wind over the last couple of days.
One glanced the tree house and covered a garden shed. Minor damage to the zincalume roof panels but a lot of clearing up to do.
Plus one of the boys had a ride on mower parked outside which is now buried but hopefully not too badly damaged.
The limb is about 500mm diameter at the big end.

Today I got a message from SWMBO, another limb down. Covered a shed and the chook shed but luckily no damage or potential leaks. The chooks were a bit ticked off apparently.
Limb is partly attached so I have to figure out how to drop it without doing any more damage.
One of my boys works at a Clip & Climb Centre so I may be sending him up with some ropes.

Looks like I'll be busy this weekend.....but not working on the FFR !


Colin

[gromit]

Most of the weekend spend chopping up branches.

I had to use a Hi-Lift jack and some Telstra rope to take the weight of one branch off the young bloke's mower.
Still a bit more to do, then I have to move all the branches down to the other end of the property ready for mulching.

Windy all day today, while I was tidying there was a crash as another branch fell on the shed !
So far very lucky as minimal damage to sheds.

Back to working on the FFR during the week.


Colin

[gromit]

Managed a few more jobs on the FFR in the heat today.

Stripped & repaired the the screenwash system. Hose was split where it pushes over the connector on the pump and had to make a new Earth lead.
I hate those electrical crimp connectors with plastic insulation in red/blue/yellow. I pull the insulation off, crimp & solder the wire in place and fit some black heat shrink, looks original and doesn't stand out like the dogs whatsits.

Brakes are really good, still have to get round to adjusting the handbrake.

Vacuumed the rear and scrubbed the seats, still have to make bases for the two rear seats. I have the foam, the vinyl is cut......just need to get round to it !

Bonnet doesn't close properly, the stay is catching on something so I need to investigate. The aircleaner is at the front right where the stay wants to park itself.

There is a 'curtain' behind the front seats, it seems it was used to block out any light when the vehicle was parked and the radios were in use. There are three straps & buckles on the bottom but nowhere on the bulkhead to strap to ? I'll have to have a look at other FFR's at Corowa.


Colin

[gromit]

Left the FFR out last night, heavy dirty rain shower so it needs cleaning again. On the plus side the inside was dry !

Another branch down this morning so out with the chainsaw. Once that was dealt with I had a look at the bonnet closing problem.
The stay was catching on the air filter, I'd removed the filter & frame but I'm positive it went back in the same position. Nothing had changed.
Found another bonnet stay and noticed the dog-leg at the top was in a slightly different position, fitted this stay and problem resolved ! At some point the stay was changed slightly or Land Rover used a different supplier but still not sure why it closed originally but all these years later it needed fixing.

Quite warm so I waited until it was a bit overcast and headed out on a test drive with one of my boys. Within minutes it was very heavy rain.
The wipers work very well, the only rain getting inside was from the side windows that I'd rolled up.
Power delivery is very different to my shorty (2.4 Isuzu diesel) and it could do with an extra gear.
The front mounted exhaust was removed to get a roady by the previous owner and a full length system made. It hits the chassis in a couple of spots so I need to look at the mounts to see if I can rectify the problem.
I have the front mounted exhaust still so that may get re-fitted at some point in the future.

Back in the shed to dry off.
Needs a new battery and better get some insurance......

Colin

[grey_ghost]

I put a ‘fume guard’ in my Perentie FFR. It stops most of the fumes getting into the front of the cabin. I bought it out of the UK for a Series [emoji639] - and just used cable ties on the Perentie RPS.. Works a treat.

[gromit]

I did a few last minute jobs today.

The hose between blower & heater was missing when I got the FFR, one turned up in some parts I purchased recently (thanks Gavin).
I thought it would be a simple fit.......
Ended up removing the splash guard under the wing and the blower to get it installed !

Adjusted the handbrake, when I removed the panel under the drivers seat I found there was a nut on the linkage not tightened so there was some lost motion.

Then I decided to organise insurance......
My other vehicles are with RACV Classic, when I phoned them I found that they will not insure ex Military vehicles !
Ended up with Shannons but it was more expensive than my other vehicles.

Next, time to check the trailer over, I'm towing it to a friends place a lot closer to Corowa next week.
One tyre needs replacing as it's worn badly on one edge, the tyre the other end of the axle is OK ? Bent axle maybe ?
To be fair it's taken a long time (a lot of Km's) to wear but I'll have to keep an eye on the replacement when fitted.

One of my boys has used the trailer a lot more than me and loaded cars a lot lower & wider than a Land Rover so lots of paint removed. Better get the paintbrush out.


Colin

[gromit]

Up early today painting the trailer, it looks a bit more presentable and will stand up to the weather for a few more years.

I noticed the buffers that fit in the bulkhead for the bonnet to butt against are missing on the FFR. I vaguely remember buying some so I hunted through a few boxes in the shed and found two. Managed to fit them although it was a struggle with the spare on the bonnet as I had limited access.

Next I decided to waterproof the lower part of the canopy.
The roof section has been replaced, sides & rear are original. I'd noticed when I was out in the rain the other week that the canvas on the sides quickly got wet.
Someone on AULRO (apologies I've forgotten who) gave me some proofing compound a few years ago so I thought I'd see how it went.
It's a white liquid, a bit like PVA glue, I applied with a wide brush and used a plastic sheet to protect the paintwork. It soaks in and the white colour disappears as it drys.
I was surprised how far a small amount goes.

Just need to make the rear seat cushions and it's ready for Corowa.

Colin

[gromit]

Cleaned all the junk off the sewing bench and fired up the old Singer.

I don't sew that often so I mark everything up, measure twice cut once.
Ran out of thread on the lower bobbin so had to think how to release it, 1930's Singers are a bit different to modern machines.
This one can't reverse so you have to turn the job around which can be problematic.

Made a presentable job, just need some cord to tie the bases to the seat frames so they don't blow away when the top is rolled up.


Colin

[gromit]

Towed the FFR up to a mates place about 28K away from Corowa along with another mate towing a 101.

Some degree of nervousness after hand scraping the wear ridges in the bores and fitting new rings years ago. Despite only having a few Kms testing it performed quite well, 70KPH there & back, needs an overdrive or high ratio transfer box.
Ride is a bit harsh but that's down to old tyres & Army leaf springs.

Topped up the expansion tank to about halfway before leaving. Pulled up in Rutherglen for a coffee and it was dribbling coolant, temp gauge was below half all the way so assumed it was down to me overfilling.

Rolled the sides up for the parade & trip to the showgrounds.

Several nice comments about the paintwork & upholstery !

The FFR appears at 12.00 minutes.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=kBolEjLWSdY


Colin

[gromit]

All the years I've been working on the FFR it's always started easily, except for an issue with the coil & HT leads years ago.

Went to start it at the weekend and it took several goes !
Once running it seemed OK.

I've never touched the carby so I'm thinking I might remove it & ultrasonically clean. I picked up a gasket set & diaphragm at Corowa.


Colin

[gromit]

The FFR is booked into the Anzac Day parade at Cranbourne. My wife & daughters are walking in the parade with the Scouts.

The Dandenong RSL (Cranbourne shut after Covid) have a Perentie that will be there. Apparently a Police car in front of the vehicles taking part and another behind.....just in case someone tries to drive into the crowd !

I checked sparkplugs today, a couple were carboned up. I have a feeling they were in the FFR when I got it. I'll fit some replacements at some point in the future.
Then I took the top off the carby, the piston had a heavy black deposit on it.
The diaphragm was OK but the oil in the dashpot was low (topped up before Corowa) so I cleaned the piston, re-assembled & topped up the damper.

It started a lot easier when I went to put it back in the shed.

I remember buying a carby overhaul kit soon after I got the FFR so I went on a hunt. Eventually found it along with a new diaphragm.
I have a few spare carbies so I thought I'd overhaul one of them, then I found that the kit I'd purchased years ago was the wrong one !!! The one I purchased at Corowa was only for the float bowl.

Now I need to find a full kit for a Stromberg 175CD.


Colin

[gromit]

A great turnout at the Cranbourne Anzac Day Parade and the weather held out.
We were at the front of the parade behind a Police car and a Perentie.

The Sikh Volunteers Australia were there providing free vegetable curry after the ceremony :)


Colin

[fightingtiger]

Awesome stuff - great to hear it getting out there again :-)

All the best for many more events and many more years of good running :-)

Shane

[gromit]

Thought I'd check the points & timing at the weekend.
It struggled to start then I only had to touch the accelerator and it coughed & died.

Eventually got it going, it seemed to a bit happier once warmed up.

Points OK, timing a bit out. I'd originally set it using some very thin plastic between the points and getting someone to turn the motor on the crank handle until the plastic was released.
Used a timing light this time and found it was a few degrees out.

The carby has a very small leak somewhere so I've ordered a gasket set.
I should probably also check the flow from the fuel pump although it ran OK when driven so there must be enough flow.

I thought this one was finished and I could move back onto the IIa GS !


Colin

[gromit]

Isn't it funny how you search the internet for something and it links you back to AULRO !

I was sure the dashpot oil level was dropping and here's a link from a post 10 years ago that explains a potential cause.
Zenith Stromberg Carburetter Repair Guide (https://bowtie6.com/other/zenith-stromberg-carburetter-repair/)

I need to take the carby apart anyway but I now know to check that O-ring.


Colin

[gromit]

I removed the carby this morning, covered in fuel stains & dirt. A gasket set had arrived during the week.

Gave it a good scrub in turps before taking it apart. I'd removed & refitted it when I worked on the engine years ago but hadn't taken it apart.

I found why it was covered in fuel, the gasket under the choke mechanism was missing. Inside it's a metal to metal 'seal' but a gasket should be fitted.
The mechanism was partly seized so I took it apart cleaned it and put it back together.

The body & float bowl went into the ultrasonic cleaner for 15 minutes, then dried with compressed air and sprayed with WD40. A mate in the UK has had problems with bike carbys corroding when ultrasonically cleaned so I spray & wipe with WD 40.

The needle was removed and a new O-ring fitted so hopefully the dashpot oil stays in the dashpot !

Reassembled, dashpot filled and carby refitted.
Several gaskets in the set not used, the kit must cover numerous variants of the Stromberg 175CD

The FFR started first time and, fingers crossed, another problem is solved.



Colin

[gromit]

I took the FFR to work today as it's the last working day of the year.

I think you can take originality too far sometimes, those Olympic Steeltrek's are a bit harsh. Mind you they're probably older than some of my kids.
I have another set of rims so I'll have to see what I can find in 7.50 X 16 and keep the Steeltreks for 'display'.

I'll also check the tracking when I get a chance as it wanders a bit.


Colin

[TonyC]

I took the FFR to work today as it's the last working day of the year.

I think you can take originality too far sometimes, those Olympic Steeltrek's are a bit harsh. Mind you they're probably older than some of my kids.
I have another set of rims so I'll have to see what I can find in 7.50 X 16 and keep the Steeltreks for 'display'.

I'll also check the tracking when I get a chance as it wanders a bit.


Colin

Colin,
Would the SIIIs have had Sreeltreks or bar treads when they were in service?

Tony

[gromit]

Colin,
Would the SIIIs have had Sreeltreks or bar treads when they were in service?

Tony

Hi Tony,

Maybe towards the end of Series III's the Steeltreks were fitted.
Article below mentions that 'some' Series III's still wore bar treads when they went to auction.

Australian Military Tyre types -REMLR (https://www.remlr.com/tyres.html)


Colin

[gromit]

I'm about to book in for Corowa in March.
Only heading up for the parade & swap meet, stopping at a mates place at Springhurst. I'll trailer it up behind the MUX.

I'm very tempted to sell the FFR or at least look for expressions of interest. Difficult to know what it's worth as there are some silly prices coming up on MarketPlace.

It's been a long term project and since getting it finished I've only used it a few times. Club Permit is relatively cheap but insurance makes it expensive (along with 5 others !!)

There's a couple of 6-cylinder motors that can also be moved on if I sell it.

It went to Corowa last year and the Cranbourne ANZAC Day parade. I'll hopefully book it in for the ANZAC Day parade again and, with any luck, I can take the FFR and the IIa GS (if it's finished) for the local Scouts Dawn Service.


Colin

[gromit]

I got the FFR out to check it over and give it a wash ready for Corowa.

It starts & runs much better after ultrasonically cleaning the carby & putting a kit through it.

While it was drying I thought I'd get the IIa out and clean it.
Problem starting it as usual. After it's been left idle for a few months, the valves stick in the fuel pump !
Took the top off the carby, filled the float bowl it then started OK and it must be either the vibration or the rapid pumping of the fuel pump and it comes good.
A bit of shuffling to get it out of the shed due to a big pile of branches.

Washed a few years of dust off it.
If you look a the rear view you can see that the paint down the side has faded.
One of the last big jobs is to strip both sides of the tub & re-paint.

Lots of small things to finish off......


Colin

[gromit]

Great trip up to the Corowa Swim In at the weekend.
I only went for the parade and the swap meet, I must go up for longer next year.

Towing the FFR up behind the MUX used a fair amount of fuel but probably less than driving the FFR there !
I spoke to someone who'd driven their 6-cylinder LR there and they'd spent $240 in fuel.

I haven't found videos on YouTube but there is one on Facebook, I'm at 8.25
Corowa Swim-In - Thanks George for the video (https://www.facebook.com/share/1BJExsd1kN/)

I've tentatively put the FFR up for sale as it's had little use since I finished it.


Colin




(https://www.facebook.com/share/1BJExsd1kN/)