USI-160 160/240 AMP ULTRA SMART DUAL BATTERY ISOLATOR.

[drivesafe]

USI-160 160/240 AMP ULTRA SMART DUAL BATTERY ISOLATOR.

PLEASE NOTE the price is now $199 + Postage, ( $190 for AULRO members including Express Post Australia Wide ).

The USI-160 is a Microprocessor based Dual Battery Isolator and has a continuous operating current rate of 160 amps and a make/surge current rate of 240 amps.

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2010/12/1079.jpg

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2014/01/1526.jpg

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2010/12/1080.jpg

The USI-160’s high current switching capacity and unique operating features makes the USI-160 ideally suited for just about every form of dual battery system requirement, from basic automatic auxiliary/house battery charging, right up to joining the auxiliary and cranking batteries together for high current winching operations, all done with one Isolator.

Installation of the USI-160 could not be easier. Two screws mount the small Relay unit and one of these is used to earth the unit. positioning a velcro strip is all that is required to mount the compact In-Cab Module.

The tennis ball in the picture below gives you an idea of just how compact both the Relay Unit and In-Cab Modules are.

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2010/12/1081.jpg

The USI-160 160/240 AMP ULTRA SMART ISOLATOR can be used as a simple Fit-&-Forget dual battery isolator or it can be set up to work in any of the 4 User-Selected operating modes, all controlled from inside the cab using the IN-CAB LED & SWITCH module supplied with the Isolator.

In a Fit-&-Forget set up, the USI-160 Unit will operate as a stand alone fully automated dual battery isolator and you don’t even need to install the IN-CAB LED & SWITCH module.

In a User-Selected set up, the USI-160 Isolator has 4 User-Selectable operating modes, and these are :-

IGNITION ON Mode = Cut-In at 13.1v, Cut-Out at 12.6v ( similar to ordinary isolators )

SHARED Mode = Cut-In at 13.1v, Shared mode 12.7v, Cut-Out at 12.0v

JUMP START Mode = Manually selectable between 10.0v and 12.7v

WINCH Mode = Manually selected above 13.1 ( motor must be running ), but once selected, will operate down to 10.0v

TIME-OUT, energy saver
The USI-160 now has a Time-Out feature, designed to avoid wasting energy if a vehicle is not used for some time.

The Time-Out counter starts when ever the voltage at the input of the USI-160 drops below 12.7v and Times Out and shuts down after 72 hours ( 3 days ) from when the voltage first dropped below 12.7v

Any time the voltage at the USI-160 rises above 12.7v, the TIME-OUT counter is reset and suspended.

The USI-160 Ultra Smart Dual Battery Isolator is designed and manufactured in Australia to meet the harsh conditions often found in off roading situations in Australia.

The USI-160 comes with a 160 amp RELAY unit and a small IN-CAB LED & SWITCH module.

The Relay Unit is very compact and only requires two screws ( 2 x Stainless Steel Screws are provided ) to mount the Unit and one of the screws is used to earth the Unit.

There are two 8M Studs for connecting the cables, one cable from the Cranking battery and one going to the Auxiliary/House Battery(s)

The Relay Unit has a pre-wired 3 metre long, sheathed 4 wire loom which you run into the cabin and connect to the LED and Selection Switch In-Cab Module.

The Isolator also comes supplied with a length of 7mm Split Tube, to protect the sheathed 4 wire loom, and two Rubber Terminal Covers.

The Switch on the In-Cab Module allows the user to control which mode the Isolator is required to be in.

The LED goes way beyond just telling when the Isolator is on or off. The LED gives a full diagnostic readout of the Isolator’s operating modes and the state of the batteries.

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2010/12/1082.jpg

As an additional safety feature, once the motor is running and the Isolator is on, the LED glows constantly, if everything is working as it should be, 1 minute after the Isolator switched on, the LED changes to a dull mode so as not to distract the driver at night.

SAFETY OVER-RIDE Mode = If cranking battery is in a very low State of Charge, the LED flashes rapidly to indicate a problem.

Or if the charge voltage goes too high, the isolator will turn off and again the LED flashes rapidly to indicate a problem. This feature is particularly useful to protect your cranking battery if you are using an older style single stage battery charge or if you are using a solar panel with out a solar regulator to charge your auxiliary battery.

POWER CONSUMPTION.

ON Mode ( both relays on ) = 320ma

SHARED Mode ( one relay on ) = 165ma

OFF Mode = 25ma

LOW POWER Mode = 10ma

[Bushwanderer]

Hi Tim,
Is this unit designed to be used in parallel with the SC80-LR, or as an alternative?

TIA,

[B92 8NW]

Brilliant work Tim. Been waiting for something like this for winch usage, was about to fit an SC80 and marine switch.

Shall be ordering soonish.

[drivesafe]

Hi Bush and B92 8NW, this is an alternative and is just the first of a new range of Isolators I intend to bring out over the next few months.

The SC80 and SC80-LR are still going to be available and still meets specific needs.

The new USI-160 is designed to meet the specific needs of people who want to run a winch and up until now, have only had a couple of options available to them.

The USI-160 has the ability to keep track of the charge state of both the auxiliary battery(s) and the cranking battery and can make decisions based on this info on how the isolator is to react to different requirements and to act automatically to protect either battery from adverse situations.

The Logic used in this isolator is going to be expanded and used in another smaller current capacity isolator that will have Emergency Jump Start facility but no winch operations. This smaller isolator will have other features not included in the USI-160.

Also, the long promised Battery Box is about to be made available and it too will have similar Logic used with it.

[Redback]

Hi Tim it's been a privilege to help (what did I do:confused:)

All the products I have used from you have been excellent, trouble free and very easy to install with easy to understand instructions and all you need to install them, back up and help and friendly service has been second to none.

I would recommend your products to anyone.

Baz.

[justinc]

I second Bazs' statements, I have the products in my vehicles, I sell and fit them to customers vehicles and recommend them at every opportunity:D.

Well designed, built and as Baz says, back up and service exemplary.

Tim, Can I use this isolator in my 110 to also run the camper trailer battery (IE 3 batteries, the same job as the SC80 is doing in the RRC) also?

If so, yes I'll be very interested as this vehicle will be also running a winch.

Thanks,

JC

[dullbird]

yep I have them on 3 of my cars.....its just a bugger we have only just fitted the sc80 as the new one above would certainly have fitted our needs more.

However the products are still awesome as is Tims customer service...I too reccommend your products and not just to landy drivers ;)

[drivesafe]

Hi Justin, you can use the USI-160 just about anywhere you can use an SC80.

Hi dullbird, customers like yourself posed a dilemma for me. Did I stop supplying the SC80 as the new Isolator was on it’s way or just put the new one on the net when ready.

The main problem was that it took a lot longer to bring the USI-160 into full production because there were numerous manufacturing differences between my standard Isolators and the new ones.

The new isolators are a completely different type of system from the SC80s and needed not only new production methods but a completely new testing regime.

This ended up adding many months to the pre production developments but have resulted in a smaller unit and this was the main request from almost every retail outlet I supply. All were complaining that other brands of isolators were getting bigger and the newer the vehicles that they are intended for, have far less place to fit them.

Anyway, thanks to all for the votes of confidence and I’ll make sure I continue to look after you all.

[justinc]

I'd best order one then Tim.:)
I'm going to leave the SC80 and the Headlamp upgrade etc in the RR, and start again with the 110. I guess I'll need a high output anderson plug kit for the trailer also?

I'll give you a buzz soon.

JC

[drivesafe]

Hi Justin, if your after a 35mm2 cable kit, Just give me a day or two as I’m in the process of setting up to supply custom sized cabling kits, with the cable cut to the customer’s required sizes and terminals crimped in place.

While I can do up to 25mm2 cable, I need a larger crimping die for the 35mm2 cable, used with winch set ups.

If your after thinner cable then I can put a custom kit together for you literally as soon as you place your order

Cheers, Tim.

[weeds]

hi tim

no problems fitting/connecting a solar panel to the system? either permently or as required when camping?

thanks

[VladTepes]

Hmm I still have an SC80here that I haven;t fitted yet.. slack bugger aren't I.
Nothing wrong with the SC80) but I'm struggling to find somewhere to find the bloody marine switch..

so I think your new design is great. Well done.

[Narangga]

As they are not yet on the website, how does one order?

[weeds]

As they are not yet on the website, how does one order?

just check the website as well....i'm guessing tim has been busy developing products

i have just emailed tim with an order

[drivesafe]

Hi folks, I’ll have the info on my web site by the weekend, it’s just that there is a fair amount of data to be posted up.

If your after a any orders, you can always PM me here on the site, this also lets me know your off the AULRO and I’ll give you a discount.

Cheers, Tim.

[stuee]

Hi Tim,

This looks like a great product. I've been pushing the SC80 on some friends who were considering dual batteries and it seemed for many the 80amps was the biggest restriction (ie when helping to jump start etc) so some went the 100amp solenoid based units. Looks like this new product will cover all bases now.

My SC80 is still going strong :cool: so I'll continue to recommend your products to friends and family :D.

[drivesafe]

the 80amps was the biggest restriction (ie when helping to jump start etc) so some went the 100amp solenoid based units.

Hi Stuee and you got it in one, my SC80 could have been set up to have jump start but I have never found a real need to add this feature, just to cater for the big dick theory.:angel:

I had no intentions of wasting development time to add this single feature just so I could compete with lesser featured isolators.

But there has been a huge increase in the number of people wishing to use winches and wanting to be able to use the auxiliary battery while winching and this is the main reason for the new high current isolator but it does lend itself to those who want the jump start feature.

[drivesafe]

Hi Folks, please note, I have dropped the member's price and all orders already placed will be changed to the new lower price.

Not this is for a short time only, just so I can get them out there to get them known.

[woody]

Also, the long promised Battery Box is about to be made available and it too will have similar Logic used with it.

any idea on time frame as I need something like this for an up coming trip

[drivesafe]

Hi woody, I won’t make a defined introduction date because every time I do, thing get in way.

I will keep you and everyone else inform of the progress.

[woody]

if the battery box is anything like your SC80 then it will be worth the wait

[dullbird]

hi tim

no problems fitting/connecting a solar panel to the system? either permently or as required when camping?

thanks

I would be interested to know this also....if it can accommodate a solar panel I will be interested to upgrade

[drivesafe]

Hi Dullbird and Weeds, you can connect a solar panel anywhere on one of my dual battery systems.

But, if you connect after the isolator, to the auxiliary/house battery(s), if the battery voltage has dropped below 12.0v, the isolator will have cut out and you will only charge the auxiliary/house battery(s), even if you manage to fully charge the auxiliary/house battery(s), the isolator will not cut in again until the motor is started.

If you connect before the isolator, on the cranking battery side, if the isolator has cut out, once the voltage of the cranking battery rises above 13.1v, the isolator will cut in and the auxiliary/house battery(s) will also be charged.

BTW, the new battery box will have a user selectable basic 20 amp solar panel regulated input, built in.

Also, if you have not looked at the first post in this thread lately, I have add a bit more info about the way the LED operates in my new USI-160 Isolator.

[weeds]

Hi Dullbird and Weeds, you can connect a solar panel anywhere on one of my dual battery systems.

But, if you connect after the isolator, to the auxiliary/house battery(s), if the battery voltage has dropped below 12.0v, the isolator will have cut out and you will only charge the auxiliary/house battery(s), even if you manage to fully charge the auxiliary/house battery(s), the isolator will not cut in again until the motor is started.

If you connect before the isolator, on the cranking battery side, if the isolator has cut out, once the voltage of the cranking battery rises above 13.1v, the isolator will cut in and the auxiliary/house battery(s) will also be charged.

BTW, the new battery box will have a user selectable basic 20 amp solar panel regulated input, built in.

Also, if you have not looked at the first post in this thread lately, I have add a bit more info about the way the LED operates in my new USI-160 Isolator.

thanks tim, i think i will still connect the solar panel after the isolator......although after your advice i have ordered a SC80

[drivesafe]

Hi Kelvin, the advice is the same for the SC80.

Cheers.

[clubagreenie]

Just received mine (well earlier today!) Can't praise Tim's service more highly, received day after order. And he's put up with my unstable questions with easy to understand responses (don't worry they'll be more to come).

[Fluids]

Hi Tim.

Did you get my PM ?

[drivesafe]

Hi Tim.

Did you get my PM ?

Hi Kiv and sorry, I meant to reply when you first PMed me.

Everything your planning is fine and the USI-160 price will stand for a while.

[drivesafe]

USI-160 160/240 AMP ULTRA SMART DUAL BATTERY ISOLATOR.

PLEASE NOTE the price is now $175, ( $160 for AULRO members including Express Post Australia Wide ).

[imatt]

Hi Mate,
PM sent, could not find details for these dual battery controllers on your website.
Cheers Matt

[drivesafe]

Hi Matt, I still have not had time to post them up on my web site and because of other commitments, I’m just making small runs at a time, which I am in the process of doing this weekend, so there will be some available early next week.

Just a note, when these new isolators go into regular production, I will also be offering a Cut-N-Crimp service where if you know the exact lengths of cable you need, I’ll cut and crimp the terminals on the cable, and fit heat shrink, before shipping and it will only work out a few dollars more than buying the unassembled cable and separate terminals.

I will be making the cables up in either 6B&S ( 13.5mm2 ) and in 35mm2.

Again while none of this is up on my web site yet, the service is available to AULRO members.

[imatt]

Cheers for the reply, let me know when the units are produced and I will get one off you. The cable idea is great but since I have access to all this stuff I won't require this service, but would make it so much easier for other customers. Keep up the good work.
Cheers Matt

[drivesafe]

Hi Matt, I am just finishing another small batch of the USI-160 Isolators and they will be ready some time tomorrow.

If any body else is interested, get in early as I will be moving them quickly, going on the enquires.

Note, They will not be displayed on my web site.

Cheers, Tim.

[imatt]

Hi Tim,
Let me know how you would like payment.
Cheers Matt

[drivesafe]

Hi again Matt, I will have one put aside for you, and you can pay via MasterCard, Visa, PayPal or by Bank Transfer.

For anyone wanting to place an order for the USI-160 isolator, either PM me or just give me a call on 07 5569 2557 and I’ll take the details for you order.

Cheers, Tim.

[B92 8NW]

I've finally got mine in and running. 35mm2, not overly enamoured by my soldering but it's as good as most I've seen. No fuses or circuit breakers, are they needed?

[drivesafe]

Hi B92 8NW, as long as both batteries are in the engine bay, because of the high current capacity of the USI-160, no fuse or circuit breaker is required.

[drivesafe]

Hi Folks, a small number of the USI-160 isolators are now in stock.

With the exception of a few pre orders, it will be first in best dressed.

Cheers.

[isuzurover]

Tim - Do you take used SC40s as trade ins :D

Seriously though, before I order one, is it likely you will be producing a higher capacity version in the future? (i.e. if there is a USI200 planned, I might wait for that one...).

[drivesafe]

Hi isuzurover, I actually originally planned to make a 240 amp version but all the research and testing I carried out, I found the 160 amp unit will do 95+% of dual battery set ups intended for use with a winch.

Furthermore, one of the original USI-160 test isolators has just done a run to the Cape ( in a Pajero ) and got a good work out pull the Paj out of mud holes and rescuing other 4x4s.

Someone else on the trip was so impressed, especially considering his own DBS just didn’t do the job, and ordered one to be sent to Cairns so it could be installed before the guy did the rest of his trip across the Centre.

So isuzurover sorry mate, but it is highly unlikely I will produce a bigger isolator in the near future.

Here a little tip for you, if you do get a new isolator, flog the SC40 off on Ebay. I’ve had a few customers do that after they upgraded.

[Ranga]

Tim - check your PMs ;)

[imatt]

PM sent.
Cheers Matt

[OffTrack]

Hi Tim,

Is there any preference as to where the isolator needs to be positioned? Close to starter, aux or doesn't matter?

I was also wondering how large the internals were in the switch/led box? I was contemplating mounting the LED and switch into one of the blank switch housings around the D2 dash. Does this sound possible?

cheers
Paul

[MinniTheMoocha]

Hi Tim,

I was also wondering how large the internals were in the switch/led box? I was contemplating mounting the LED and switch into one of the blank switch housings around the D2 dash. Does this sound possible?

cheers
Paul

I am answering on behalf of Tim because I have just done something similar.

Two wires are for a LED (Red +) (White -) and Blue and Black to the switch.

I actually used a LED and Rocker switch that was mounted on my Defender cubby box.

Worked a treat.

[Fluids]

I'm going to attempt to mount the switch assy into the blank where the headlight levelling switch would go ... LHS of the side mirrors control.

[drivesafe]

Hi Folks and thanks Minni, I’m that flat-out I haven’t had time to post up more info on the USI-160 isolator yet.

VERY SLACK I KNOW.

Just a bit more info for installing alternate in-cab set ups.

Red is positive side ( ANODE ) of any coloured LED, this is the long lead.

White goes to the negative side ( CATHODE ) of the LED, the short lead and there is also a flat section in the base of round LEDs that corresponds with the negative side.

NOTE, no resistor is needed as both the Neg and Pos supply for the LED has resistors on the PCB. ( DOUBLE PROTECTION )

Blue is the switch input to the Microprocessor and only responds to a negative input but will NOT be damaged if you accidentally touch a positive source.

The Black is a negative source.

You do not need to fit the LED and/or switch for the USI-160 to work and if the In-Cab module is not used, the USI-160 will automatically run in Share Mode ( like an SC80 ).

If you set up a different switch, in the open position, the USI-160 will run in the Share Mode and in the closed position, the USI-160 will run in Ignition Mode like a Redarc or similar type of isolator.

If the motor is off and you want to jump start, the switch must by in the open ( OFF ) position and switched to the closed ( ON ) position, to activate the Jump Start Mode.

If the switch is already in the ON position, simply switch to OFF and then ON again, to activate the Jump Start Mode.

with the motor running, if you want to activate the Winch Mode, the switch must be in the ON position, if it’s in the Share ( OFF ) position, switch it to the ON then back to OFF and then back to ON.

Once in the Winch Mode, the LED ( if you have it fitted ) will give two short flashes an the glow constantly for two seconds and give two short flashes, and continually repeats this cycling while you have the USI-160 isolator set to the Winch Mode.

To turn the winch mode off, either switch to the OFF position the share mode, or switch to OFF and back to ON again, and you are back in Ignition Mode.

If you forget and leave the USI-160 isolator in Winch Mode and turn the motor off. once the voltage drops below 12.75v a 5 minute time starts and if the motor is not started again before the 5 minute timer expires, the USI-160 isolator will automatically go into the OFF Mode. This is done to guaranty you don’t for get and flatten all your batteries.

[LOVEMYRANGIE]

Tim
What's the latest on the battery box?
I'm assuming that the D3/4 unit will also suit a D2?

Andrew

[drivesafe]

Hi Andrew and sorry I didn’t reply sooner. I haven’t been watching the threads that closely.

I’m afraid the battery box is on the back burner for now, mainly because there are a few very cheap Chinese ones about and it’s not worth the time to continue the develop something that has some much cheap competition to compete with.

[Ranga]

By battery box, are you referring to the USI-160? If not, any idea when a new batch will be ready?

[drivesafe]

Hi Ranga, I making them right now.

I have a few back orders and I'm finishing off the latest batch and will have them ready over the weekend.

So they will be on the shelf Monday and all gone by Wednesday or Thursday :D

[willie]

Hi Folks and thanks Minni, I’m that flat-out I haven’t had time to post up more info on the USI-160 isolator yet.

VERY SLACK I KNOW.

Just a bit more info for installing alternate in-cab set ups.

Red is positive side ( ANODE ) of any coloured LED, this is the long lead.

White goes to the negative side ( CATHODE ) of the LED, the short lead and there is also a flat section in the base of round LEDs that corresponds with the negative side.

NOTE, no resistor is needed as both the Neg and Pos supply for the LED has resistors on the PCB. ( DOUBLE PROTECTION )

Blue is the switch input to the Microprocessor and only responds to a negative input but will NOT be damaged if you accidentally touch a positive source.

The Black is a negative source.

You do not need to fit the LED and/or switch for the USI-160 to work and if the In-Cab module is not used, the USI-160 will automatically run in Share Mode ( like an SC80 ).

If you set up a different switch, in the open position, the USI-160 will run in the Share Mode and in the closed position, the USI-160 will run in Ignition Mode like a Redarc or similar type of isolator.

If the motor is off and you want to jump start, the switch must by in the open ( OFF ) position and switched to the closed ( ON ) position, to activate the Jump Start Mode.

If the switch is already in the ON position, simply switch to OFF and then ON again, to activate the Jump Start Mode.

with the motor running, if you want to activate the Winch Mode, the switch must be in the ON position, if it’s in the Share ( OFF ) position, switch it to the ON then back to OFF and then back to ON.

Once in the Winch Mode, the LED ( if you have it fitted ) will give two short flashes an the glow constantly for two seconds and give two short flashes, and continually repeats this cycling while you have the USI-160 isolator set to the Winch Mode.

To turn the winch mode off, either switch to the OFF position the share mode, or switch to OFF and back to ON again, and you are back in Ignition Mode.

If you forget and leave the USI-160 isolator in Winch Mode and turn the motor off. once the voltage drops below 12.75v a 5 minute time starts and if the motor is not started again before the 5 minute timer expires, the USI-160 isolator will automatically go into the OFF Mode. This is done to guaranty you don’t for get and flatten all your batteries.

Tim,
Am I right in reading that I can replace the in-cab module with a switch and an LED - or do I need to gut the in-cab module and swap out the internals to the new (say, carling rocker on/off) switch?
Cheers

[drivesafe]

Hi Willie, you can either use the In-Cab module supplied with the kit or use a separate switch and LED.

The LED does not need a resistor, just follow the info given.

When I get the time, I’ll post up some diagrams to make it easier to DIY.

[onesilop]

I have just installed the USI-160 and the led remains on all the time even when the ignition is off, have I wired something incorrectly? Which way is on and off for the switch on towards the LED or away? Also is there a manual that is downloadable with the details of the significance of the different LED modes?

[drivesafe]

Hi onesilop, the manual is my next job, and the LED should remain on.

When the switch is set towards the LED, you are in IGNITION mode, when the switch is set away from the LED, you are in SHARED mode.

Most of the operating info is in this thread but I will be posting up a downloadable PDF file on my web site shortly.

[Hastykiwi]

http://www.traxide.com.au/USI_160/USI-160-LED-Demo.jpg

[Fluids]

The LED will stay lit permanently until the batteries voltage drops below 12.7v for ignition mode, or 12.9v for shared mode.

[onesilop]

Ok so I have collated the information in this thread into a cheat sheet for myself. Can Tim (or whoever else) let me know if it is correct.

Also anyone else is free to use it for any purpose they see fit.

[Fluids]

Ah, the last paragraph might be off .... it reads

"To turn the winch mode off, either switch to the closed position (towards the LED) to get to shared mode, or switch to closed then back to open again, and you in Ignition Mode."


Shouldn't it read ... "To turn the winch mode off, either switch to the closed position (towards the LED) to get to ignition mode, or switch to closed then back to open again, and you in shared Mode.



Thanks!

[onesilop]

Ah, the last paragraph might be off .... it reads

"To turn the winch mode off, either switch to the closed position (towards the LED) to get to shared mode, or switch to closed then back to open again, and you in Ignition Mode."


Shouldn't it read ... "To turn the winch mode off, either switch to the closed position (towards the LED) to get to ignition mode, or switch to closed then back to open again, and you in shared Mode.



Thanks!



Thanks for that, I have changed it and re-uploaded. I am yet to test that it is correct so any help is greatly appreciated.

[brenno]

Thanks for that, I have changed it and re-uploaded.

Not working mate.

[onesilop]

Not working mate.

I think it is easier If I upload it....
This has been done.

[drivesafe]

Hi Folks and thank you very much onesilop for posting up that info.

Next, I am finally working on the full installation instructions for the USI-160 Isolator.

I have been supplying these new isolators to those who were aware of them, for just over 12 months now and while the units main software was developed over a 5 year period, as time permitted, the USI-160 has proven to be bullet-proof as far as use and reliability goes.

A number of units have been used extensively on a couple of vehicle that have done the Cape trip and one was so impressive that the owner of another vehicle with a different brand got me to ship one to Cairns so he could upgrade his set up.

I have only had two replacements and both were assembly faults not software or design caused faults.

The point is that I have had a good education from those using these Isolators and the info gained will be put into the new comprehensive instructions.

Now, I am after any suggestions for what people would like included in the instructions?

[clubagreenie]

Instructions for mounting the switch/led outside of the enclosure or running a secondary switch/led in a stock panel/switch panel of the vehicles.

FWIW mine has been running faultless with mainly one battery except for on two occassions without an issue.


+1 for the ref card as below.

[onesilop]

One product change I would like to see is just simply labelling which side is shared which is ignition. That would for starters make life allot easier, as for the manual - this applies to almost anything that I have in the defender - is a quick reference card (like the mediocre one i attached to this thread) would be great. Something small that you can keep in the cubby box so that on the rare occasion when you need the jump or winch mode you have all the info there in front of you.

[Fluids]

Tim. Do away with the reference of "ON" / "OFF" or "OPEN" / "CLOSED" for the switch position, and use "SHARE" / "ISOLATE" or similar terminology .... the on/off open/closed reference tells the operator nothing in respect of what the switch is controlling. It is confusing. What's on ? What's off ? What's opened ? What's closed ?

SHARE = When the engine is stopped - Both batteries "share" the auxilliary load/duty down to the cut-off voltage

ISOLATE = When the engine is stopped - Both batteries are "isolated" from each other when the cut-off voltage is reached

Maybe label the switch "I" and "S" ? (LED side & opposite side)

We already know/accept that both batteries are charged when the engine is running and the voltage is above the cut-in voltage

For "JUMP" and "WINCH" mode use the same logic ... "J" and "W"

So maybe the switch could be labelled "I/J" and "S/W" ... I & S in one colour (being the primary functions) and J & W in another colour (as secondary functions). This allows the operator to immediatley see what position the switch should be resting in for the function desired.

[VladTepes]

here's me with my still uninstalled SC-80 and a giant marine switch that I can find nowhere to put... and you come up with this thing which is just the sort of thing I;ve been looking for all along ! (I think)

[Fluids]

Just to keep relevant info in the appropriate place ... to makes searches juicier ;)

In another thread I asked Drivesafe ...

"Using the USI-160 ... is it better to keep the aux & crank battery "shared" ALL the time, or keep the aux' "isolated" normally, only using "shared" mode when actually running accessories.

When it's being used as a daily drive, the D2 isn't running a fridge or any accessories.

The batteries are both Optima's ... D31A + D34"

Tims reply ...

"Unless the is a specific reason, the USI-160 gives the best results when operated like the SC80, in SHARED Mode ( switch set away from the LED )."

Put that in the manual Tim! ;)

[drivesafe]

Hi Kev, already one jump ahead of you and here is a copy of the alterations.

Recommended operation, unless the is a specific reason, the USI-160 gives the best results when operated in SHARED Mode ( switch set away from the LED ).

If you have a flat cranking battery or you are doing some winching, then you set the switch to the IGNITION Mode ( switch set towards the LED ).

Also, if a flat battery has occurred and you only do a short drive after starting the motor, it is recommended leaving the switch in the IGNITION Mode ( switch set towards the LED ) until you know if the cranking battery has been charged and is holding it’s charge.

This is done to make sure you auxiliary battery has the highest possible charge in it if the cranking battery proves to be faulty and you need to jump start a few times before you are able to replace the cranking battery.

[drivesafe]

Hi folks and I have just uploaded the latest USI-160 Isolator Installation and Operation instructions.

Warning, it’s a large PDF of 1.2MB.

You can download the file at the link below.

http://www.traxide.com.au/files/USI160_Install.pdf

[x-box]

After having had a SC40 in the fender for a while now, and having a suspicion that I damaged/cooked it (my fault - don't ask!), I got in touch with Tim and got a USI-160 off him. It is always nice to drive out there anyway and talk to him - he is a very knowledgeable person when it comes to electrics and just a general good bloke too..... (he's repairing my SC40 if it's not beyond repair)

Installed the unit yesterday (USI-160) and following the ample and simple instructions it was easy...... Everything works as it should and I'm more confident of a cold beer now on my next trip away! :cool:

Thanks Tim - you're a legend mate (I'll be back later for more cable and connectors as discussed)

I did have trouble understanding which way the switch should go, but after reading the previous posts it is now clear.

[tailslide]

Hi Drivesafe,

Can the USI-160 be easily modified to only monitor the main battery voltage?

My reason is that at this stage I am not planning on a permanent dual battery installation, but do want to run a fridge and/or an inverter with some sort of low voltage protection, without relying on the loads connected to self protect.

The behavior that I'm looking for is the isolator will connect and supply the load without a second battery connected, and isolate at the low voltage level as per normal.

If possible I would wire a change over switch to move the sense wire from terminal 1 to terminal 2 (where T1 is the Main Batt and T2 is the Load/Second Batt) depending upon if a second battery is installed or not.

I hope this is clear enough...

Cheers
Ron

[drivesafe]

Hi Ron and an interesting use for the USI-160.

Because the USI-160 monitors both the input ( from the cranking battery ) and the output ( from the auxiliary/house battery(s)) you can’t simply swap the cables around.

The USI-160 is designed to go into a low power mode if no auxiliary/house battery is detected or if the auxiliary/house battery is below 8v.

With the USI-160 set in the IGNITION Mode ( switch towards the LED ) the isolator will go into low power mode when the cranking battery voltage drops to 12.6v. So if you were running a few accessories and didn’t have the auxiliary/house battery connected, the isolator would go into low power mode after just a few minutes.

BUT, if the USI-160 was set to the SHARED Mode ( switch set away from the LED ), the isolator not only would not go into low power mode until the cranking battery voltage dropped to 12.0v, but after turning the motor off, once the cranking battery voltage dropped to 12.75v, one of the two relays in the isolator would turn off.

This is done to reduce the amount of power being used by the USI-160 to helps to extend the operating time before the battery(s) needs charging.

So if you leave the USI-160 set to SHARED Mode, it will do exactly what you are after. It would provide accessories power off the cranking battery but would isolate the cranking battery leaving you heap in the cranking battery to be able to start your motor.

The only catch is that if the voltage dropped to 12.0v and the USI-160 went into isolate mode, as there is no auxiliary/house battery connected, within 60 seconds, it would also go into low power mode.

Normally the only way to get the USI-160 out of isolated mode is to connect an auxiliary/house battery but you can “trick” the isolator into thinking there is an auxiliary/house battery connected by starting your motor and bridging the two main terminals on the isolator for 8 seconds.

While you could achieve the same thing by installing a push button switch in the cab of your vehicle, the push button switch and the wiring between it and the USI-160 would have to be big enough to carry the current load of your accessories while it is pressed.

Note, again if you did fit the push button switch in the cab, all you would have to do is press the button and watch the LED on your In-Cab module. This will flash for the 8 seconds and then come on solid to indicate when the USI-160 has turned on.

[tailslide]

...
Because the USI-160 monitors both the input ( from the cranking battery ) and the output ( from the auxiliary/house battery(s)) you can’t simply swap the cables around...



Thanks for the info. What I was trying to ask is how difficult would it be to modify the unit to only monitor the cranking battery terminal voltage? That is, move the auxiliary battery voltage sense wire to the cranking battery terminal.

If that was a possibility, I could then use a change over switch to select either the aux terminal to monitor when a aux battery was connected (normal operation as designed :p), or the cranking battery terminal when operating without a second battery. (Ron's devious way of tricking the 160 into believing that a second battery is installed.:twisted:).

Hence the switch in this case could be another toggle switch similar to the control switch.

Cheers
Ron

[drivesafe]

Hi Ron and the more I think about it the less I like the idea of an independent switch set up.

Even the Push Button suggestion above requires fuses being fitted to each wire at the isolator.

While this set up won’t cause any harm if something goes wrong, it’s still not the best way to achieve what you want.

As for tapping into the internals of the unit, that’s just not an option.

BUT, I may have a way to achieve what you want with a few changes to the microprocessor’s program, adding an extra feature to the operation of the unit and allowing the existing switch to carryout the additional feature.

Leave it with me for a while as I’m flat out with another project at the moment.

[tailslide]

Thanks Drivesafe,

I can wait awhile and am happy to be the first test customer. :cool: I will be running my power line down to the back soon as my interior trimmings are still out due to a skinny dip on New Years Day... I'll leave a loop in a convenient place.

Cheers
Ron

[Blknight.aus]

any reason you cant fit a semi decent sized capacitor to trick the SC160?

tap the solenoid-startermotor winding to get the initial spot charge to the capacitor then the sc160 can read the capacitor voltage and then hook up to the load. you'll then run in shared mode till the battery voltage goes low and then it'll drop off the aux load.

[willie]

Hi Drivesafe,

A question about putting the batteries on mains charge when connected with the USI-160.

If the USI-160 is in shared mode, then the mains charger will see one battery? If they are isolated then the mains charger will only see the battery it is connected too?

Otherwise, am I right in thinking that if I switch to 'jumpstart/ignition' mode they batteries are joined and the charger will charge both batteries equally? And is this the 'mode' to use for charging?

Looking at your diagrams on the first page - does it matter which battery is connected to the mains charger? Aux or main?

Rgds
Willie

[Fluids]

If in shared mode AND the relay has both batteries connected (voltage of the starting battery is above 12v - the LED is fading in/out) your charger will be charging both batteries simultaneously as they are both connected together by the relay.

If in ign' mode, the relay will be disconnected when the engine stops (or after a short while when the surface charge on the batteries drops below 12.75v I think) ... your charger will charge the starting battery only UNTIL it's voltage rises to 13.2v (i think) at which point the relay will connect both batteries, and both will be charged as they will then be connected together.

Regardless of where the switch is, when a charger is connected to the starting battery, BOTH batteries will eventually be fully charged. (Starting first & until voltage rises to cause the relay to connect both batteries)

If you connect the charger to the aux' battery, BOTH batteries will be charged IF the relay has both batteries already connected (voltage of the starting battery is above 12v - the LED is fading in/out) . If in shared mode & the voltage has dropped to 12v or below, both batteries are disconnected from each other, and the charger connected to the aux' battery will ONLY charge the aux' battery.

Connect your charger to the starting battery. That way, BOTH batteries will get charged up.

[Toppa]

Hi Drivesafe,

I know your install manual touches on this, but i was looking to install the incab control via a latching SPDT 'arb' style rocker switch from custom rockers. Will this retain all the features of the original in cab module? Your install manual just refers to an on/off switch rather than a SPDT switch.

cheers
Chris

[drivesafe]

Hi Chris and yes, any type of switch can be use in place of the switch supplied.

Cheers, Tim.

[Toppa]

48713

Hi Tim,

Just sizing cable and I want to use the biggest possible without going insanely overboard. I have attached my proposed sizing, but suspect 70mm2 IS overkill?

Batteries are located side by side in the original D2 battery location - 2 x D31 Optima yellowtops. Accessory power will run from there to the rear of the car.

Winch will run of main battery

ive read a number (heaps) of other posts trying to get a definitive list of appropriate cable sizing, but with varying results.


in summary

Main Batt earth 70mm2 (00B+S)
Main batt to winch 35mm2 (2B+S)
Main batt to altenator 70mm2 (00B+S)
Main batt to USI160 35mm2 (2B+S) want option to jump start main batt using Aux batt
USI160 to Aux Batt 35mm2 (2B+S)
Aux Batt to Earth 35mm2 (2B+S)
Aux batt to rear cargo area 14mm2 (6B+S) double insulated - just running frig and LED lights

I know you will be busy (ive seen how many fourums you frequent) and with the release of your battery charges, im sure you are fielding plenty of enquiries, so I dont expect a quick response

cheers

[drivesafe]

Hi Toppa and nice potential set up and yes 70mm2 is over the top but that is your prerogative.

I have found 2B&S is more than adequate for winch set ups and while 8B&S ( 7.9mm2 ) is more than thick enough for running power to the rear cargo area, there is no harm running 6B&S and future proofing your set up in case you decide to start towing a CT or caravan.

Cheers, Tim.

[Toppa]

Thanks Tim, appreciate your time and expertise.

Sent from my GT-I9100T using Tapatalk 2

[AnD3rew]

Just ordered my full D3 kit with the USI-160 from Tim. Look forward to getting it next week, but can I say what a great guy, can't say enough about how helpful he is and how generous with his time and information.

[alien]

I've had a USI-160 in the Defender for just over 14 months now and I'm pleased I went with this set up.
The various switching options and reputed positive comments of Drivesafe/Tim's knowledge and customer service where key purchasing factors.

My set up has the USI-160 mounted in my Mulgo Ex-Box with all my electrics.
I use a winch switch(Mulgo's factory look) and a LED in the central dash panel instead of Tim's switch.
I had a few conversations about my plans with Tim over the phone and he confirmed what I had planed was going to work.

While changing the fuel filter recently I had a helper start the beast while I checked for leaks.
Our Defender sits midweek and often goes 2 weeks between starts, can you see where this is going?
Yep, SHE left the key in accessories position for a week and niether of us noticed.
When we went to start it while we had ignition lights, there was no grunt to turn the motor.
One simple press of the above mentioned switch and it kicked into life:D
I leave the USI-160 in "ignition mode" as I prefer the higher voltage cut out for these sort of occasions, remeber it's not a daily driver.
I've used the switch while winching also and assume it all worked as I had the no issues.

I have the 2nd battery(TD5 starting) wired to a Anderson plug on the rear, also one of Tim's kits.
We tow a van running it's own battery and a 50w solar panel that conects via the Anderson plug.
Both the Defender and van have backlite USB outlets with lights glowing full time off the aux batteries.
When the van is connected via the Anderson plugs mid week all the batteries remain connected and charged, the dash LED happily keeps glowing on it's lower brightness so it's all above cut out voltage.

The set up I have and discussed with Tim(who was always happy do discus concerns and make suggestions) is as follows...
I've recently purchased a 6 panel fold out 120w solar panel that has 2 regulators.
It can be run as 2 X 60w or 1 X 120w and can be connected to either the Defender, van or both subject to needs.
The fridge lives in the Defender so I have it on day trips.
The van runs a 300w invertor overnight for a C-pap machine and has a hard wired 50w solar panel.
On weekends away the van covers itself and the Defender is usually on a day trip somewhere.
The extra solar panels are to supplement this when parked up for a few days or if it's overcast reducing solar efficiency.
The test will be the 3 days at the Big Red Bash in July with no driving.

Thanks to Tim for his input to my set up and supplying a well thought through kit that works as it should when needed:)

[Boyley]

Hi Drivesafe

Did you manage to help Tailslide (one page back, but 2012 post) with his request as I think I need the same fix.
I sent a email yesterday, but even confused myself when I re-read it.

Basically I will not be running a second battery, but have run a cable to an Anderson plug to charge our new camper via it's DC-DC charger. The trick is I also ran a lead off this cable to occasionally run a Waeco fridge for drinks in the back of the car.

So I need a device to monitor the starter battery when the car is not running and I have the fridge running.
Lastly, as the camper has 300W of solar panels and 2 x 120Ah batteries,I'd like to be able to charge the car's starter battery occasionally via the Anderson plug.

I have a 2014 Discovery 4.

Interested in your thoughts.
Cheers Neil

[tailslide]

Hi Neil，I don't think anything came of this. I have been running without a battery monitor and now don't feel like I will ever install one. For overnight camping trips the starter battery is sufficent and I have the option of adding the 100AH second battery down the back if I am planning on stopping at a site for a longer period. Even then it is rare for the car to not be driven during the day.

Cheers Ron

[drivesafe]

Hi Neil and yes I did get your E-mail but I am flat out filling orders.

I will give you a call in the next day or two, as soon as I have a break, as there is a fair bit to discuss.

Regards, Tim.

[mattims]

Hi,

Just a quick question on the USI-160 that I have. I have 2 x 100amp hour marine batteries (supercharge brand I think, so probably not very good, but not the worst).

They seem to be working just fine when I have my fridge running, but when I leave the car with nothing (that I know off) running for about a week when I come back to it the batteries are disconnected from each other (which I think is a normal timeout feature) and the second battery shows only 12v or just below, but the primary battery shows 12.7 and once I start the car it reconnects the batteries and charges the second battery back up (at about 65 amps initially but drops off pretty quickly within about 10 minutes it will be down to 2-5 amps).

Is this a sign that my second battery is not very healty? or just something I am not understanding about how the system works. The batteries are both only about 1 year old and the second battery has only been below 12v with my fridge running twice (not low enough to cut off with the auto low voltage cutout though). So I know that marine batteries are not really deep cycle, but I didn't think cycles down to 12v was too bad for them.

[DiscoMick]

Sounds like the DBC is protecting the starting battery, which is good.

Sent from my SM-G900I using AULRO mobile app

[drivesafe]

Hi,

Just a quick question on the USI-160 that I have. I have 2 x 100amp hour marine batteries (supercharge brand I think, so probably not very good, but not the worst).

They seem to be working just fine when I have my fridge running, but when I leave the car with nothing (that I know off) running for about a week when I come back to it the batteries are disconnected from each other (which I think is a normal timeout feature) and the second battery shows only 12v or just below, but the primary battery shows 12.7 and once I start the car it reconnects the batteries and charges the second battery back up (at about 65 amps initially but drops off pretty quickly within about 10 minutes it will be down to 2-5 amps).

Is this a sign that my second battery is not very healty? or just something I am not understanding about how the system works. The batteries are both only about 1 year old and the second battery has only been below 12v with my fridge running twice (not low enough to cut off with the auto low voltage cutout though). So I know that marine batteries are not really deep cycle, but I didn't think cycles down to 12v was too bad for them.

Hi Matt and it sounds like you are not driving enough to fully charge the batteries.

If you are not doing much driving then you need to supplement the charging of the batteries.

The two best ways to keep your batteries charged is to either charge them regularly with a battery charger, or connect a solar panel when you know you are leaving the vehicle unused for a while.

BTW, Mick is right, the USI-160 is protecting your cranking battery.