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chris1983rangie
15th December 2010, 12:25 PM
G'day all,

i need some assistance from all you Restorers of Early Model 80" Landys in regards to Paint colours, codes, colour coordination etc.

my 1950 80" R06102728 by rubbing a bit of the paintwork back from factory it looks like it was painted in DBG. So were there only 2 colours available at this time? whats the other colour called? the lighter pastel green one? I would like to paint my Landy in this colour. Also what is the colour of the chassi? silver, black, or body colour? any ref pics.

thanks,

Chris

dennisS1
15th December 2010, 12:31 PM
No it was more simple, DBG or DBG the sage green as often called run out during the 49 models.
Not sure at what number but the last of the 49s where DBG.
Dennis

Lost Landy
15th December 2010, 12:36 PM
For your 80" Deep Bronze Green would be correct for the body work and for the chassis, the other green is "Sage" green" also known as Cockpit green & those had a silver painted chassis. they were that colour for the 1948s ,1949 80"

If you can get a hold of James Taylor "The Early Years" that book has a lot of great photos and tips for restoring series 1s correctly :D

Lotz-A-Landies
15th December 2010, 12:48 PM
Have to agree with Dennis, the sage green was well and truly gone before the end of the 1949 models.

After that only fire engines and special order 80"s were done in colours other than deep bronze green. Even the first RACQ 80" delivered in the begining of1950 were DBG before being re-painted in RACQ fleet beige. The 1951 deliveries being fleet beige at assembly.

One of the closest matches to the sage of the production 1948/49 was one of the Wattyl Colourbond colours - Rivergum from memory.

Dennis will have a better idea.

chris1983rangie
15th December 2010, 01:05 PM
thanks all for the quick replies, i think is gona have to be Deep Bronze Green or Deep Bronze Green! the Landy is quite origional. orig engine, gbox & chassi its going to be DBG. on this project i am going to aim at every little detail to how it was when it left the production line LoL even with oil leaks! :D

cheers,

Chris;)

dennisS1
16th December 2010, 04:48 PM
Oil leaks are easy to replicate, colour not so, plenty of codes around but modern paint people are all under 50 and don’t seam to be able to use them.
Have a 50 that is painted in DBG paint from a company in Adelaide that apparently computer matched the colour (surprised about computers in SA me too) looks very good. I am to get the codes and more paint from them at some stage will let you know.
My be stating some thing you already know but remember the chassis is also DBG.
Dennis

digger
16th December 2010, 11:30 PM
Oil leaks are easy to replicate, colour not so, plenty of codes around but modern paint people are all under 50 and don’t seam to be able to use them.
Have a 50 that is painted in DBG paint from a company in Adelaide that apparently computer matched the colour (surprised about computers in SA me too) looks very good. I am to get the codes and more paint from them at some stage will let you know.
My be stating some thing you already know but remember the chassis is also DBG.
Dennis

cheeky bugger!
no more SA paint for you! :D

andy_d110
17th December 2010, 10:17 AM
Another thing to think about, paint technology has come a long was since the days Of series ones. The gloss of those days would be more like a semi gloss or satin finish nowadays. When they are painted with a modern high gloss paint they just look too shiny and perfect. It's a series one, not a Bentley!:p

Andy.

Lotz-A-Landies
17th December 2010, 10:30 AM
Oil leaks are easy to replicate, colour not so, plenty of codes around but modern paint people are all under 50 and don’t seam to be able to use them....<snip>Dennis

As I understand, the codes may still exist but the pigments that relate to those codes don't. Therefore the people who mix the paint have to convert to and use a modern synthetic pigment which does not have the exact same properties and so the resulting colour is different to the original.

Diana

series1buff
17th December 2010, 11:54 AM
The DBG was from the BSC 381c chart ..... number 24 or 224

BSC = British standard colour

http://www3.sympatico.ca/geechen/Colour%20charts/RAFcolors1931.pdf


MIKE

dennisS1
17th December 2010, 12:00 PM
In 1998 when I sprayed my 86 Dulux where still in auto paints, a local guy used the original Dupont codes and the result was as close as any Rover paint job.
My favoured reference point for original colour is under the Left hand handbrake hole cover, these covers have rarely ever been removed and the rubber seal up against the inner surface gives a pretty original colour.
The plastic shine issue is why I like to use acrylic lacquer, this is becoming harder to get.
Due to the need to buff out its shine the result is much deeper and you can stop at the required gloss level. It has in my opinion other advantages, can be sprayed in less than perfect surroundings, pretty easy to spray, very easy to repair and only just a bit toxic. Big disadvantages are the work needed to buff and not as hard as 2 packs.
Dennis

zulu Delta 534
18th December 2010, 09:20 AM
I was under the impression that all Landies (80") were painted in a satin finish rather than a gloss finish.
Regards
Glen

bayrover
18th December 2010, 08:09 PM
If your bonnet still has the original spare wheel holder, remove it and you might be lucky enough to reveal the original colour. Take this and get it col matched. Acrylic Lac seems to be the go.

chris1983rangie
20th December 2010, 01:36 PM
yep Acrylic Lacquer is going to be the Go on my 80" and i think is one of the easiest to spray & clean up.

Chris

Lotz-A-Landies
20th December 2010, 02:48 PM
yep Acrylic Lacquer is going to be the Go on my 80" and i think is one of the easiest to spray & clean up.

ChrisAcrylic lacquer is also the easiest to repair.

We have a fellow up here in Sydney who does quite amazing restorations and he only uses acrylic. He may do as many as six or seven light coats, rubbing back between each and every coat. He never uses a clear coat, where most two pak paint jobs get their shine from.

His vehicles after resto can be considered better than when they roll off the Land Rover factory floor. :) They do will all the show and shine prizes!

bayrover
21st December 2010, 07:08 AM
And from what i've heard the warmer months of the year are the better times to apply the numerous coats as they dry faster enabling the next part of the process to begin

chazza
21st December 2010, 07:34 AM
And from what i've heard the warmer months of the year are the better times to apply the numerous coats as they dry faster enabling the next part of the process to begin

Correct; about 25C to 30C is ideal, if it gets much hotter than that, the paint can start to dry before it hits the panel so you need to use a different thinner. Consult the paint shop they will know,

Cheers Charlie

bayrover
21st December 2010, 07:54 PM
Nice tip 25-30c Rgds

Charlie's brother
31st December 2010, 10:12 AM
I have used some air dried enamel, which dries much quicker than the old 'Jam' that used to take most of the rest of the day to dry and remained tacky forever. I got a really good result out of it and the man in the paint shop put some stuff in to stop it being too glossy. The benefit is that the thinners is not as toxic as acrylic lacquer, you can face it if you like and it is easy to repair as well. Cheaper than Acrylic as well!

Cheers Nick.

1953 BEADELL
5th February 2011, 06:38 PM
I USED the roller gloss paint technique with one - two coats as per factory job and as long as u use a full gloss high quality roller and brush for edges i have had people say it looks origonal being not too glossy like a full respray would be with modern paint,I USED Acrylic enamel exterior gloss.Color matched to the last origonal paint out of the sun.Regards PETER.

dennisS1
5th February 2011, 07:36 PM
I am not too sure where the coach paint story came from for S1s.
(Coach painting is using hot paint with a brush and when it dries and in some cases cools it shrinks to give a smooth gloss finish. This was common place in England and special coach paint is still available)
May be some early S1's where painted like this but the majority that I have seen where sprayed and I think the product was some form of enamel and pretty glossy.
My proof for this look under any S1 that is original and what do you see overspray under the wings, bonnet etc. You don’t get over spray from a brush.
Dennis
PS. back in the late 70s I spoke to an elderly gentleman that to that point painted all the trucks for a still large transport company, it was his view that spray punters should have their hand removed. All of his jobs where done with a brush using the coach paint method.

chris1983rangie
9th February 2011, 04:50 PM
i sprayed my recently finished 55 s1 in satin, i it looks splendid....!