Flex plate/ drive plate replace advice...

[daljames]

Gudday all,

She's got the rattles... Also the exhaust manifold gaskets on the drivers side are starting to leak so, its time for some decisions. Can you replace the flex plate Without removing the engine completely? Given i have to replace the exhaust manifold gaskets, and IF i have to remove the engine for the flex plate, should i then just do a rebuild while its out? Its only(?) done 148000kms, and my fuel economy is not bad (im a light foot with the rangey..) at about 15 l/100km average city consumption. It doesnt produce huge amounts of power though and when i was doing Beach driving at Hawks Nest yesterday it really required some throttle even in low range. That may be just soft sand though..

Anyway, ideas and costs to help with a decision please...

Im in Sydney.

Option A just do the gaskets and flex plate and the auto trans service i had always planned and budgetted for about now

Or;

If i rebuild it, should i top hat it (if it isnt) and cost for my own block?
And who to do it?

High compression pistons?
and if so cost?

Cost of head reco and where to get it done?

Cost of bearings, gaskets, timing gear, oil pump and other stuff i should replace while its out?

Bring on the advice!

[RR P38]

You are going to need a pretty serious bunch of equipment for this work if you are doing it yourself.
I would budget for $3-4k for an engine rebuild alone.
That is if you pull it out and refit it yourself.
Is it really needing a rebuild? My engine has similar Ks + on it. Yesterday i had my 1995 on the Dyno at G Coopers after a tune i picked up 5 kilowatts now running at 94.9 Kilowatts not bad for a 16 year old car.

I would just put it in for a new flex plate, when they put it all back together they can do your exhaust gaskets as well.

Hell, i wish i could get the millage you quote i am hoping my tune up improves my 22L/100k round town.

I wouldnt think that spending up on your engine is going to increase the value either, i had my truck up for sale 2 weeks ago not even an offer at $7k LOL.

[daljames]

kinda leaning that way too...

[sheerluck]

IF it were me, I'd go for the change the flexplate/exhaust gasket only option.

It's not got a great number of Kms under it's belt, so I would leave alone unless it definitely does have a problem. I've just spent $3k on rebuilding a 1998 D1 V8 (but I had bought it dirt cheap), with new rings, big ends, cam, head rebuild, timing gear, gaskets, suspension, hoses all round.....

[Fish78]

You could take it in and have a compression test done, see what the numbers are compared to the book, its a good idea if your are considering a rebuild.

As a rule, most engines should have 140 to 160 lbs. of cranking compression with no more than 10% difference between any of the cylinders. (not sure of the numbers for the 4.6 V8 though)

Low compression in one cylinder usually indicates a bad exhaust valve. Low compression in two adjacent cylinders typically means you have a bad head gasket. Low compression in all cylinders would tell you the rings and cylinders are worn and the engine needs to be overhauled.

If you going to do the work you mentioned, it would be a good time to think about a dual exhaust, new injectors (Chev ones are the go i hear)
that would give you a bit more power/less fuel use too for not much $$.

If i did that, i'd get a snorkel to free up the airflow, then have it dyno tuned by a LR shop.

[willem]

I think you can change the flex plate by undoing the bell housing and moving it and the gearbox backwards ... IIRC Ron Beckett had his done that way. A new flex plate costs about 80 to 100 dollars.

Exhaust manifolds shouldn't be too hard.

At 148k the engine should not be tired. There may be issues, but it should not be worn out.

Willem

[daljames]

Thanks willem. Did a search, pm'd Ron.