View Full Version : How muuch paint
dullbird
22nd December 2010, 09:11 PM
Guys was just wondering whether anyone would have any idea approx how many liters of paint it would take to paint a series cab, mudguards and bonnet?
MickS
22nd December 2010, 09:20 PM
Triken Panel Beating Suppliers - Car Spray Paint (http://www.triken.com.au/index.php)
Speak to Brad at Triken @ Miranda. He matched my paint. What he doesn't know about paint/spray painting isn't worth knowing.
Scouse
23rd December 2010, 07:41 AM
Are you painting inside the cab & engine bay too?
Is it to be done in acrylic?
If yes to the above, then I'd buy a 4 litre tin.
You might have a bit left over but then you know it's a perfect match in case anything else needs to be painted.
ezyrama
23rd December 2010, 08:04 AM
If it's any help, I have just painted the radiator support panel, under side of the foot wells and inside the tub and I have used about 400ml of paint at 1-1/2:1 with thinners.
Ian
Lotz-A-Landies
23rd December 2010, 02:52 PM
DB
Protec one of the paint manufacturers (also available at Triken Miranda) has it's NSW distribution warehouse just down the road from you at Minto.
Importantly they do retail sales over the counter.
Minto
111 Airds Road
Minto NSW 2566
Tel (02) 9603 5655
Fax (02) 9603 5788
Diana
dullbird
23rd December 2010, 07:09 PM
Are you painting inside the cab & engine bay too?
Is it to be done in acrylic?
If yes to the above, then I'd buy a 4 litre tin.
You might have a bit left over but then you know it's a perfect match in case anything else needs to be painted.
Yes scott thats the plan. I will also be painting the tray but I want it a couple of shades darker. however I dont know what paint to use will acrylic be OK..
Also come to think of it what ever paint I get I will need to do the wheels too as I was going to do them whiite but no so sure now and wondered if I should do them the same colour as the body. so maybe 5 liters?????
Although I was hoping to have the wheels blasted painted and then baked.
Scouse
23rd December 2010, 08:51 PM
What sort of finish are you after?
If you want a nice shiny engine bay & interior, it might be best to paint those areas with enamel or 2 pack. That way there's a shine "off the gun" - acrylic needs to be polished to shine.
However, if you're not worried about the engine bay & interior being glossy, then acrylic all over would be my choice.
dullbird
23rd December 2010, 08:55 PM
do you put a clear on acrylic? is it hard to shine it up..
I would like it to be shiny but being a light colour I think the whole gloss effect might be a little lost
The Brun
23rd December 2010, 09:07 PM
If it was me I would us two pack with some hardner in it nice gloss off the gun and hard as nails when dry;)
Lotz-A-Landies
23rd December 2010, 09:19 PM
The problem with most two pack paints is that they frequently contain toxic isocyanates and "Occupational health and safety laws specify that isocyanates shall only be sprayed in a booth and that an airline respirator must be worn when spraying them." http://www.safework.sa.gov.au/uploaded_files/Isocyantes.pdf (Similar laws in most if not all States.)
So unless you have a painting booth and an air fed respirator setup, avoid these two pack paints.
DeeJay
23rd December 2010, 09:26 PM
I just painted the whole outside of my 110 County Station wagon - except the roof with 2 litres of Acrylic (& 6 litres of thinner). Up to 7 passes mostly.
It needs a lot of elbow grease to polish - I've used 3/4 litre of cutting compound with a 240v polisher.
Tote
23rd December 2010, 09:31 PM
Interesting thread, I'm looking at painting my series 1 with enamel, nice and shiny and not a lot of work to polish after spraying.
Acrylic too much work to buff
2 pac out due to the dangers and lack of a spray booth.
What type of paint were early Land Rovers painted with?
Regards,
Tote
MickS
23rd December 2010, 10:00 PM
I painted Basil with 2 pack in my garage, disposable overalls, a respirator, thongs and a couple of 500w lights from Supercrap :eek:
Don't go acrylic. You look at it the wrong way the paint comes off.
dullbird
25th December 2010, 11:39 AM
So I have another question....
would it be best to strip all/ or as much paint before plaving a primer on or does it not really matter?
as I have different coloured buts to go on I thought it was best to ask.
Currently I have a purple bonnet, green mudguards (fenders, wings what ever you want to call them) a blue firewall and purple doors along with a purple roof but with a white tropical roof on top...hahahahahaha.
If I have to strip them thats something I can start doing if someone tells me how..hahahah do I just use a solvent or something that melts and takes paint off? or is it a case of days with a flapper wheel.
Lou
bee utey
25th December 2010, 11:47 AM
If you paint over purple paint, sure as eggs to top coat will peel some day and reveal your perfidy.:D. Strip, clean, prime, paint with lots of elbow grease and your paint job will last longer. I have in the past tried to find wrecks with the same colour panels to save on painting, hard to do nowadays.
Best of luck on stripping paint, I've never done it (too lazy by half).
dullbird
25th December 2010, 12:07 PM
so any thoughts on stripping the paint...as I would imagine getting in the firewall on the inside of where the instruments go will not be easy.
chazza
25th December 2010, 12:42 PM
so any thoughts on stripping the paint...as I would imagine getting in the firewall on the inside of where the instruments go will not be easy.
Lou,
It depends if you are going to strip the car or not. If the panels are stripped you can have them sand-blasted; or soda-blasted for aluminium; or acid dipped to get the paint off. Paint stripper and hours of hand cleaning will work but can become rather tedious :(
Whatever method you choose I agree a bare-metal re-paint is the best way to do it,
Cheers Charlie
dullbird
25th December 2010, 01:01 PM
Hi Charlie
Yes all panels have been removed! the car is a bare chassis well apart from the front springs and axle that have just been put back on.:)
My only concern for all the panels being sand/soda blasted is the sheer cost of doing it.
Anyone every used these people..the only thing I'm not sure of is although there process is patented i cant seem to see what there process actually is.
http://www.redistrip.com.au/main.html
chazza
25th December 2010, 05:46 PM
Ask them if it safe for aluminium, as I suspect their process uses caustic soda.
If you want cheap, immerse your bulkhead in a bath of molasses to get all the rust off but you will still need to deal with any paint,
Cheers Charlie
dullbird
25th December 2010, 06:36 PM
no rust on the bulk head....I bought one from another member.. I dont have any rust issues I have to much multi coloured paint issues.
Tote
25th December 2010, 06:50 PM
Lots of elbow grease... I've found the flap wheels that go on an angle grinder pretty useful on the chassis where you can get a good surface to work on and dont have to worry about damage.
Body panels I've yet to find anything much better than paint stripper. A pressure cleaner can be used to remove the paint once it's reacted with the paint stripper, this saves some work scraping it off. I am going to get my bulkhead soda/sand blasted but havent yet asked for quotes.
I have found "Citristrip" better than the traditional paint strippers as it is less caustic and stays wet longer.
3M make a wheel that goes in a drill that is designed to strip paint, looks like a round scotchbrite pad. These can be good to clean up stubborn bits of paint but are no easier than stripper on a large surface.
Regards,
Tote
dullbird
25th December 2010, 07:02 PM
Chassis is already done and been repainted.
maybe paint stripper and pressure washer like you suggest might be the way to go
MickS
25th December 2010, 10:01 PM
Paint stripper and pressure washer...easy. Back to ally and start fresh.
Failing that Mobile Soda Blasting - Home (http://www.mobilesodablastingnsw.com.au/)
OLR-067
25th December 2010, 10:19 PM
IMHO your creating miles of work by stripping back. Just use wet and dry and sand to smooth finish.Make sure you use plenty of wax and grease remover before spraying. This is what I did with my ambo a few years ago, and even though we did it in a day and the humidity was high the results where more then acceptible. The trick is to go with a good spraying enamel. Thin it until it starts to slow drip off mixing stick. Spraying enamels are self leveling and provides a thick layer.At the end of day you have to ask yourself, are you going to use it for what it was built in the bush,or concourse. Either way that's what I have done with a few cars and never had any problems.
paul
Lotz-A-Landies
26th December 2010, 09:17 AM
Paul's suggestion is the big question!
If you want the vehicle to use and look good, then that's the way to go.
However if you want the vehicle to be in a condition as it came out of the original dealers yard then you'll have to do a lot more work, take all the panels apart strip them and paint them off the vehicle.
We have an enthusiast here in Sydney, who removes all the gal, completely strips the vehicle (including de-skinning the roof) and then replaces all the rivets with the correct type in the correct place. Even makes some of the rivets when necessary.
It may be a lot more work, but in a show and shine you can see the vehicles that have been stripped and those that have been painted over.
It's all personal choice. :)
dullbird
26th December 2010, 12:46 PM
I'm not going for a show and shine...as the vehicle will be used all be it for only very small use. I was more concerned by the fact I had so many different coloured paints to cover, I wasn't sure whether that would of been a deciding factor every panel is off the car so was looking at spraying each individual panel separate before placing back on the chassis...all on the same day though as I dont want different colours/shades :D. it will be a test for me as I have never sprayed anything other then black through my gun.
I think perhaps I should just do what paul suggested then rub it back put a couple of coats of good primer and then paint. I had actually heard loeaving older paints underneath is a good thing as it gives the primer something to bite on to.
However others have then said if you scratch it in the bush it will annoy you to see the other colours come through:(.
I dont want to create even more work for myself but I dont want the car to look crap either if I'm already putting this effort in. choices choices:D
chazza
26th December 2010, 02:04 PM
I think perhaps I should just do what paul suggested then rub it back put a couple of coats of good primer and then paint. I had actually heard loeaving older paints underneath is a good thing as it gives the primer something to bite on to.
If the paint underneath is in good condition, it will be OK to paint over it provided that:
1. What you put on top of it is compatible with the undercoat. Some paints and thinners react with others, so you will need to test your new paint first. This can become problematical if you can't identify what type of paint has been used before and because you have so many colours it may be impossible to find out.
2. The existing finish is stable. If there are many layers of paint they may be more likely to crack and spoil your new finish.
3. There is no rust under the existing finish.
New primer will stick quite happily to bare steel if it is properly prepared, especially if you use an etch primer first,
Cheers Charlie
dullbird
26th December 2010, 02:07 PM
oh ok as I don't know what paints have ben used maybe I should strip them...Chazza if I did strip I would probably have to use etch primer anyway as panels are all ali i believe other then the bulk head but I don't realy class that as a panel (I don't know why though:D)
Lotz-A-Landies
26th December 2010, 02:19 PM
spraying enamel will go over anything. Acryllic is the paint that needs a sealer.
dullbird
26th December 2010, 03:34 PM
So despite having a number of different paint on Diana your saying if i sprayed an enamel it would not matter?
Am I right in thinking I should be spraying a primer regardless of what paint I put on
OLR-067
26th December 2010, 03:44 PM
That's all I have ever done in the past is to sand and spray, no priming. Just make sure there are no contamination, use wax and grease remover.
paul
(http://s142.photobucket.com/albums/r118/bloodbox67/?action=view¤t=IMG_1865.jpg)
dullbird
26th December 2010, 04:01 PM
So I take it I wont have any drams with colours bleeding though then? the car will be painted limestone which is a pretty light colour
OLR-067
26th December 2010, 05:46 PM
If it hasn't covered enough, then give it another coat.
chazza
26th December 2010, 06:05 PM
So I take it I wont have any drams with colours bleeding though then? the car will be painted limestone which is a pretty light colour
Find a good paint shop Lou and get their advice.
If they are any good at serving customers they will be able to advise on the process and supply all of the consumables you will need,
Cheers Charlie
MickS
26th December 2010, 09:53 PM
Find a good paint shop Lou and get their advice.
If they are any good at serving customers they will be able to advise on the process and supply all of the consumables you will need,
Cheers Charlie
Which is what I said above Triken Panel Beating Suppliers - Car Spray Paint (http://www.triken.com.au/)
Take a door, a panel, the bonnet even and show them. Tell them what you want to do and how the vehicle will be used. You will get your answers straight and to the point.
dullbird
26th December 2010, 10:16 PM
There all a bit of a distance from me now Mick :(
MickS
26th December 2010, 10:33 PM
There all a bit of a distance from me now Mick :(
It's worth the trouble.
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