TD5 Fuel Line Problems

[StephenF10]

My BIL has had the fuel lines from the pump split or come loose (not sure) four or five times since he bought his D2a new. The first time was under warranty, the last was last week and cost $900. He is planning a caravan trip around Oz next year and is now understandably wary of the vehicle. Apparently it's not a roadside fix.

Does anyone know what causes it, why it would happen so often to one vehicle and if there is a permanent fix?

Stephen.

[justinc]

NOT normal to have it happen time and time again. The fitting of these lines requires careful routing to avoid the chafing on chassis etc. I have done 1 twice due to this, THAT won't happen again:mad:

JC

[scarry]

NOT normal to have it happen time and time again. The fitting of these lines requires careful routing to avoid the chafing on chassis etc. I have done 1 twice due to this, THAT won't happen again:mad:

JC

JC
Gotta check mine for this as it has done a lot of miles on corugated roads.Do they rub through above the tank?Or is it at the bracket forward of the tank on the chassis rail,that is easily visible.If it happens above the tank,can it be checked from under the vehicle or do you need to pull up the carpet & check it from the top.Or do they rub through around the fuel filter somewhere.

Thanks in advance.

[justinc]

Hi paul,

they can rub on Drivers side chassis rail where it joins the rear crossmember infront of the fuel tank, where the lines cross over from the filter and turn to go along the crossmember, then turn towards the fuel pump. The 'green' colour coded line is the main culprit, you can even buy it on its own complete with an adhesive sleeve to protect it from rubbing. It joins at the little bracket on the chassis rail (inside edge) and goes towards the front, and the other end goes all the way to the fuel pump. Alan at British4X4 sells the single line kit, a LOT cheaper than the whole manifold of pipes...

JC

[robbotd5]

Hey Fella's
I have some experiance on this subject. Do a search on "stuck in the Snowy's" for the full story. Anyhow, my fuel line chafed through despite it being recalled by LR to fix the problem. It was the green banded line and it chafed through on the 90 degree bend immediately after the fuel pump. Could not get a spare for near two months and the car was in Talbingo and we live in Newcastle so I could not even play with it. When I got the spare, I went down with wifes Uncle who lives there and was looking after the D2a. Long story short, you do not have to cut your carpet, just pull it up out of the way, there you will see the metal cover over the pump. Remove this and you will see the fuel lines. Next you need to remove the fuel tank all together. Best done at or near empty. It has to come out at an angle (passenger side down) and be carefull of the filler neck on the drivers side. Once you have the tank out of the way you have unrestricted access to your fuel lines. I could not for the life of me find where the hose was rubbing (I have had the tank out twice). Where it rubbed through there was a pin head sized hole. On the new hose, I wraped the areas where the old one rubbed through with a heap of electrical tape and then wrapped the entire hose in that spiraled black plastic insulating sheath. Infact I did the same to all the lines in the vacinity. Also used a hand full of cable ties to neated everything up. Now I will be very suprised and ****ed off if it happens again. It is not a hard job just time consuming and yes it is hardly a roadside fix. Don't hesitate to contact me if I can help any more.
Hope this helps.
Regards
Robbo.

[justinc]

No need to remove the tank. It is easy to do in situ, a bit tight to get your hand in etc but still better than taking out the tank, especially if you have a Hayman Reece etc in the way:mad:

JC

[Urban Panzer]

If you carry 2 push fit straight pnuematic connectors and a small length of nylon pipe, it could temp repaired anytime, even when out and about.

[scarry]

Hi paul,

they can rub on Drivers side chassis rail where it joins the rear crossmember infront of the fuel tank, where the lines cross over from the filter and turn to go along the crossmember, then turn towards the fuel pump. The 'green' colour coded line is the main culprit, you can even buy it on its own complete with an adhesive sleeve to protect it from rubbing. It joins at the little bracket on the chassis rail (inside edge) and goes towards the front, and the other end goes all the way to the fuel pump. Alan at British4X4 sells the single line kit, a LOT cheaper than the whole manifold of pipes...

JC
Checked mine today,seem OK at front & rear of fuel filter,they are covered with a sort of foil as well.Found mine badly chafed at that bracket forward of the fuel tank,on the chassis rail.The bracket supports the vehicles body.It has a sharp edge on it:mad:,very bad design.The coupling joining the fuel line actually pushes the fuel line onto the sharp edge of the bracket.Both fuel lines run through it.Not much movement to get something around it,but i will get it sorted shortly.

[justinc]

Checked mine today,seem OK at front & rear of fuel filter,they are covered with a sort of foil as well.Found mine badly chafed at that bracket forward of the fuel tank,on the chassis rail.The bracket supports the vehicles body.It has a sharp edge on it:mad:,very bad design.The coupling joining the fuel line actually pushes the fuel line onto the sharp edge of the bracket.Both fuel lines run through it.Not much movement to get something around it,but i will get it sorted shortly.

thats the bracket i meant, usuallly there isn't a problem at the filter side of the chasssis, it is all on the inside and top of the rail that the pipes are poorly routed.


jc

[StephenF10]

Are these potential chafing spots visible from underneath or are they in some inaccessible area, e.g. on top of the tank?

Stephen.

[biggin]

A couple of pics would go down well!
It looks like something we should all be checking from time to time.
It's the same on the V8's, isn't it?

[2 rocks]

Just had my line fixed last week - best 50 bucks I've spent in a while.

In case anyone with and aftermarket tank is is curious; I was concerned as to whether the tank would have to come out as I have a Long Ranger fitted, but thankfully - as JC said - the job can still be done in situ.
Cheers
Mike

[robbotd5]

Just my 2c worth but I found it heaps easier with the tank out as you can see the whole area and where the lines actually sit. Then you can insulate them properly and cable tie them in a better position. Have a look at this excellent link. Step by step instructions with color pics 22 pages worth.
http://forums.lr4x4.com/index.php'showtopic=23450
Regards
Robbo.

[justinc]

Just my 2c worth but I found it heaps easier with the tank out as you can see the whole area and where the lines actually sit. Then you can insulate them properly and cable tie them in a better position. Have a look at this excellent link. Step by step instructions with color pics 22 pages worth.
Replacing TD5 Fuel pipes - LR4x4 - The Land Rover Forum (http://forums.lr4x4.com/index.php'showtopic=23450)
Regards
Robbo.

Totally agree Robbo, but I really hate pulling the tanks out of these, seems everytime I do, a plastic clip or bracket etc gets broken:mad:

JC

[slug_burner]

My green banded pipe was changed with the tank in place. The bit that took the longest was sleeving the pipe. Freddo did mine.

[spudboy]

If you carry 2 push fit straight pnuematic connectors and a small length of nylon pipe, it could temp repaired anytime, even when out and about.

Can you get these connectors from any good hose/connector shop (e.g. Pirtek or ENZED) or are they only available from Land Rover OE? (Edit: i.e. are these generic push on connectors?)

I want to re-route just one line on my TD5 130, but the lines feel quite 'brittle' so I haven't been game to start shifting them around much.

Also, can you cut and re-join these fuel lines? I started to mess with one, but it looked like there was a soft outer 'sheath' covering a very hard plastic inner pipe.... Wasn't sure what I could use to re-join the lines once I'd cut them, so I chickened out.

Tks
David

[justinc]

Yes you can, I've had enzed do it for me a few times when I have changed the position of Defender fuel filters. They use a compression fitting with olives as far as I can tell, only problem is you have to go back and retighten them a few times to stop them weeping.

JC

[spudboy]

OK - thanks for that - I will check with our local Pirtek bloke. I take it you are referring to joining the fuel lines.

What about the end connector clip on "bayonet" fittings (the ones that actually clip onto the fuel pump and the fuel filter)? Same?

[justinc]

OK - thanks for that - I will check with our local Pirtek bloke. I take it you are referring to joining the fuel lines.

What about the end connector clip on "bayonet" fittings (the ones that actually clip onto the fuel pump and the fuel filter)? Same?

not sure about those, we have only ever joined the lines. i'd say they are surely available, but from where i am not sure.

jc

[scarry]

Had another look at mine,torch & mirror very handy,it is all fine around the tank & filter,but where the HP hose goes through that chassis bracket forward of the fuel tank,welded onto the chassis rail.Very difficult to get something around the fuel line to stop the chafing as there is no room around the hose & the coupling on the line pushes the fuel line against the bracket.:(Have to keep trying i suppose.Anyone got any ideas?


Also found the source of the oil at the front of the motor,plastic cam plug is half out,off to get a new o ring....

[robbotd5]

Had another look at mine,torch & mirror very handy,it is all fine around the tank & filter,but where the HP hose goes through that chassis bracket forward of the fuel tank,welded onto the chassis rail.Very difficult to get something around the fuel line to stop the chafing as there is no room around the hose & the coupling on the line pushes the fuel line against the bracket.:(Have to keep trying i suppose.Anyone got any ideas?


Also found the source of the oil at the front of the motor,plastic cam plug is half out,off to get a new o ring....
Have a look at the link I quoted a few posts ago scarry, may be time to drop your tank.
Regards
Robbo.

[scarry]

I had a good look at the post.It is not at the tank,it is forward sort of above the rear axle,if i could post a pic i would.

If you look at the 23rd pic on that link there is a pic of the offending bracket that the lines go through.The lines are that tight you cannot sleeve them with anything.
Re routing them around the bracket would be best,and securing them,but i put that in the two hard basket,as there would not be enough pipe lenght.

Thanks for your help.

[slug_burner]

OK - thanks for that - I will check with our local Pirtek bloke. I take it you are referring to joining the fuel lines.

What about the end connector clip on "bayonet" fittings (the ones that actually clip onto the fuel pump and the fuel filter)? Same?

In Bundalene's Puma project thread he looks for fuel hose connectors here is a link (http://www.aulro.com/afvb/projects-tutorials/115591-bundalenes-puma-project-13.html#post1373812)to his post that links to suppliers, I think they are of the same type.

[Hamish71]

If you carry 2 push fit straight pnuematic connectors and a small length of nylon pipe, it could temp repaired anytime, even when out and about.

More information on connectors, and size please.