P38 Overheating in Hot Weather/Condenser Fan Failure

[BusinessConnected]

Just a warning/query:

I noticed the P38 was overheating a little on the 35 Degree+ Days recently... had a look at the front and noticed 1 of the Condenser Fans had seized completely.

So I guess couple of things

1) Would this be enough to cause overheating on a Hot Day
2) Where would be a good place find another Fan or Fan Unit?

[Rupert Prior]

p38 condensor fans do not work as most mechanics think they will. the manual must be read carefully to understand what is going on. it also depends on what engine management system you have.

[wayneg]

Mine never came on so I shorted the wires on one of the switches so they come on with the air con. I thought this would be benificial however it may be when the car is not moving but at speed the temp seemed to be higher than normal so i undid my mod.
If you are running hot check your Rad for blockages.

[Junosi]

The condensor fans are more connected with the air-con system than the cooling (radiator) system - and won't come on if you're engine is overheating until waaaaay too late. You can either short them on permanently (low or high speed) or put a switch in to activate them at your pleasure. A few threads on this exist - have a search

[BusinessConnected]

I'm aware that they only come on in conjunction with the Air Con System... and that if you turn off Air Con as per the switch it normally turns these fans off completely.

This is the first Summer I've owned a Range Rover, so it appears I may need to investigate my cooling system further. During normal/non-extreme temperature days everything seems to operate as "Normal" (Temp guage just to the Right Hand Side of the Middle Point)

I turned the Air Con off whilst I was having the overheating type issues and that dropped the temperature back to normal for a significant time, hence why I felt the lack of functioning Condenser fan may have been a cause.

[wayneg]

When I first had my car the temp guage would be at 12 oclock most of the time and a little to the right on hot days in traffic. On a trip out in heavy mud up to the sills the car overheated. I was with a group of knowledgeable AULRO members who insisted the rad was past its best. What did they know, It cooled down once out of the mud and all was well. A couple of days after, coming off the freeway into a long traffic queue the car boiled over. That was it, the world had come to an end, the block would be cracked a liner slipped and the car scrapped. I left the car by the side of the road returning many hours later. Filled with coolant and drove home with no overheating dramas?
Took the rad out and to a Rad Shop. Rad was almost completely blocked. 9yrs old and 185ks. Rad shop butchered the Rad so it was not repairable:twisted:
Got new Rad from UK and thank god all was well. Now car runs around 11 oclock and only up to 12 if in heavy traffic.
When I had the condenser fans running all the time with the air con the temp stayed around 12 oclock not moving down to 11.

[redandy3575]

I think it might be time to check my radiator also. Even thought the car has only done 147,000kms on hot days with air con on, when stopped at traffic lights, she heats up. But when on the move, all is well. I'm guessing somethings wrong here.

[DT-P38]

Redandy you should go straight to a radiator specialist joint for a check and get them to list recommendations. Mine did similar stuff a couple of years ago not long before it blew its top and cost me about $6K for a new short motor.

[BusinessConnected]

I've ordered a New Radiator as a "Consumable" Item. Hopefully this resolves the issue. If not will look at Water Pump ete next...

[Keithy P38]

Its that time of year isn't it! I just gave my entire cooling system a flush and coolant change this morning after the temp gauge hit the red yesterday (lack of coolant caused my issue though). I noticed that there was a lot of gunk in my radiator when flushing it, so i spent a fair amount of time giving it a birthday. I found small chunks of steel in the cooling system too (those damn pipes are corroded from the coolant reservoir). Its generally the first thing I do to a car when buying second-hand, and especially with Rangies!

I hope a new radiator solves your problem! Might pay to give all the lines a good check-over too. Could also be a sticky thermostat in your case too...

Cheers
Keithy

[redandy3575]

Redandy you should go straight to a radiator specialist joint for a check and get them to list recommendations. Mine did similar stuff a couple of years ago not long before it blew its top and cost me about $6K for a new short motor.

I might just do that. On that note, i did change the coolant a couple of months ago by simply draining and adding a coolant flush additive then draining a few times before adding fresh coolant. After adding new coolant, i ran the motor with the reservoir cap off for 20 minutes to allow any air bubbles to escape, however what are the odds of more air being trapped in the system??

Also when driving off-road, it tended to get a little hot also when the air-con was on!!!

[BusinessConnected]

I've done further research on this by chatting to a couple of Range Rover Service Shops in Melbourne, and they all pretty much suggest that by 15 Years & 150,000km+ the Radiators are almost certainly clogged/stuffed and are the cause of most of the issues.

Beside Leaking gaskets ete they say the Water Pump is usually quite robust.

My Radiator is getting replaced Tuesday.. will let you know how I go.

[redandy3575]

Ok, i've again drained and flushed the radiator, engine etc. running fresh water through the top hose and giving the radiator a good rinse by toping it up then draining for about 5 times. To no suprise, there happens to be a fair amount of gunk just sitting at the base of the rad. After shining a torch in through the drain plug i noticed that the fins have this greenish brown powder like accumulation built up around it. Althought the radiator itself is in reasonable condition and unless there is some sort of cleaning agent that can remove this, i think the time has come to replace the radiator altogether:(. I did top it up again with a little over 50% of concentrate coolant and the rest with distilled water for the time being until i can book my vehicle in to radiator specialist.

[BusinessConnected]

I honestly wouldn't bother too much with a Radiator Specialist... I've yet to find one who can repair a Range Rover Radiator (they keep breaking the Plastic Surrounds ete).

New Ones are around $400 Inc GST (OEM from Scotland) in Melbourne (British Parts in North Melbourne).

I've replaced mine on a 235k Milage Car and it's solved all overheating issues...

[mike 90 RR]

I honestly wouldn't bother too much with a Radiator Specialist...

I've replaced mine on a 235k Milage Car and it's solved all overheating issues...

I'll back that ....




Once your radiator is looking sad and old .... Just cut to the chase and get it either re-cored or just buy a new 1

Flushing or just plain old frigging around with it, is just buying you time for the inevitable .... It's done for / rooted / pushing up daisies

Cost of a radiator verses a motor rebuild ... take your pick





While we are at it .... check your viscous fan .... My money says it doesn't work


Fleabay . au... has the viscous hub at around $200 delivered
Fleabay . uk... has it at around $100 + delivery

Cheers
Mike

[BusinessConnected]

The Fan Hub seems to have a little more longevity in them than the Radiators. Mine at 235k is still going strong....

Don't even bother trying to get them recored... stump up the $400 for a New OEM One...

[DT-P38]

Your choice on how you spend your hard earned RedAndy, just make sure you actually do something and keep a very close eye on temps and fluid levels in the mean time.

BTW I have noticed that oil level can have an impact on how hot or cold my 'pretty pig' runs. Especially in hotter weather. If she's running low she tends to run hotter... wonder if a bigger capacity sump would help these things? I have heard that problems Nissan had with their 3.0 TurboDiesels were short term fixed with shortening dipsticks and eventually fixed for good with increased sump size.

Anyone ever heard of P38's with enlarged/modified sumps?

[redandy3575]

Your choice on how you spend your hard earned RedAndy, just make sure you actually do something and keep a very close eye on temps and fluid levels in the mean time.



Point taken....Will be ringing British Parts in North Melbourne 2morrow for new rad.