Advice on setting up a D2 for towing

[winaje]

Hi all.

I'm possibly going to be doing some towing soon (~2000kg with ~150kg ball weight), for a while... I'm after some input into the vehicle setup etc. based on what I currently have, and what I am initially planning. Particularly interested in advice from others who have towed similar weights etc for long periods of time, and any problems that may have arisen with the vehicle and stuff to watch out for.

Currently:
2000 D2 T5 Auto with ACE and coils, sagged 2" lift
TD5 is chipped by BDMW
Auto is bog standard
Have a Tekonsha Voyager (> 4 axle) brake controller fitted
Have just replaced the radius arm bushes front and rear (huge difference)
Standard LR tow receiver
Exhaust manifold gasket etc done, all 10mm studs
EGR bypass done
Replaced fuel regulator, radiator, DC joint (greasable front shaft), viscous fan, most coolant hoses (not heater)
Repaired fuel cooler, power steering hose


Planned mods/changes (advice and thoughts please):
Bridgestone Dueler 695's in 245/75/16 with 3000lb load rating, probably from the USA direct
Replace watts linkage, sway bars and Panhard rod bushes
Replace sway bar linkages
Replace tie rod ends
Replace springs/shocks (unsure of brand or rates etc)
Install dual battery setup with Anderson Plug (ARB tray currently fitted)
Install spin on oil filter relocation kit for Z9 or similar (almost no access past ARB second battery tray)
Nudge bar or similar to mount lights and CB antenna etc
Replace stock brake hoses with braided line
Replace rotoflex
Replace thermostat
Service auto
Overhaul calipers
Overhaul brake master cylinder
Other stuff as it becomes apparent

Possible mods/changes (advice and thoughts please):
Silicon turbo hoses
Upgraded auto oil cooler in factory position (if possible)
High capacity transfer case sump

[Grumndriva]

My wife and I have towed 2.6 to 2.7 tonnes around 30,000 km over the past few years with my D2, but it is a V8 so I can't comment on your TD5 specifically, but you are on the money with ensuring that cooling and suspension are spot on before you start.

Most importantly, fit a larger auto cooler. The standard one is not adequate for heavy towing. I was amazed at the temperature of my auto when I had a temp gauge fitted, and quickly fitted a bigger cooler.

I am not certain about the need for a larger sump on the transfer case, but my gut feeling is that it would help minimise the rapid wear which mine suffered.

If the budget allows, replace the Voyager with a Prodigy or later Tekonsha product. Once you have tried a Prodigy you will wonder how you ever made do with the Voyager.

Keep heavy objects away from the rear of your van (no tool boxes, jerry cans or extra spare wheels) and for best results try to get your ball weight a bit closer to the optimum 10%.

Enjoy the heck out of it!

[Slunnie]

Hey Winaje, long time!

I'd add an additional ATF cooler rather than replacing the current one with a bigger one because it is in a bad position. Check the DPL ones which are excellent.

Rear springs, if you've still got the King Springs ones, they are soft in rate, so maybe look at either upping the rates or going Polyairs, more so if you are going to fill the boot with stuff.

Higher performance brake pads

A few people have mentioned the high capacity transfer sump - I wouldn't bother, the case doesn't run hot and the oil doesn't become contaminated. I think they're a gimmick.

Sounds like you're going nomadic for a while! Have fun!

[winaje]

Hi Simon, also long time... Thanks to you and Grumn for your replies so far.

You mention an additional trans cooler; Mike recommends a P38 cooler. Please advise why you recommend an additional rather than the P38, and where to fit it? Who/what are the DPL coolers? Link please?

Yes, still have the King Springs. Will be replacing them front and rear, along with shocks, looking at a Suspension Stuff kit probably. Will be pulling the large rear seat out and lightly to medium loading the rear, hopefully.

Am currently running Bendix 4WD pads on standard DBA discs that are only lightly worn.

Keep the answers coming guys :cool:

[pohm66]

Hi winaje,

Slunnie has been a great help with me as I'm looking to go down a very similar path with Grimmy 99 d2 td5.

Its seeming to boil down to these items
1) upgraded intercooler
2) upgraded transmission cooler
3) ECU remap (stage 1 or 2), I'm looking to get a NNN ecu
4) silicon hoses
5) maybe a boost box
6) appropriate rated rear suspension for level travel
7) some gauges (boost, EGT and trans temp) I have an off-road caravan and looking to do some beach work so temps need to be watched.
8) upgraded rotors and brake pads up front
9) de-stressing the exhaust manifold

The idea behind the larger trans sump is for more oil and surface area.... you get both with a large cooler anyway and cooler air. I'm looking to add a CEM additive to the good quality fully synthetic oil and a more regular oil change regeme.

[Slunnie]

Hi Simon, also long time... Thanks to you and Grumn for your replies so far.

You mention an additional trans cooler; Mike recommends a P38 cooler. Please advise why you recommend an additional rather than the P38, and where to fit it? Who/what are the DPL coolers? Link please?

Yes, still have the King Springs. Will be replacing them front and rear, along with shocks, looking at a Suspension Stuff kit probably. Will be pulling the large rear seat out and lightly to medium loading the rear, hopefully.

Am currently running Bendix 4WD pads on standard DBA discs that are only lightly worn.

Keep the answers coming guys :cool:
The reasoning behind the DPL ATF cooler is that it is up and out of the middle of the radiator packs - it means that you can clean it, it wont become blocked full of mud the first time you drive through mud and you'll end up with greater cooling performance from it. It sits behind the grill so air can go around it and through to the radiators still.
Dasvis Performance Landys home page (http://www.davisperformance.com/oilcooler.html)#

This is what they look like when installed - keep in mind that this is also sitting between 2 spotties.
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2011/01/750.jpg

The P38 units are probably good, but they can only be so effective when the air has already passed through the AC condensor, the ATF temps are only warm rather than hot anyway (ie minimal temp differential between ambient and ATF temps, meaning heat transfer is already inefficient) and then the air has to flow through the coolant radiator.

It is down low, and if you ever hit mud you its a big job to clean the radiators even with the radiator cleaning wands. This was mine when it came out. Your money and your tranny but I think the OE position of the ATF cooler is a shocker.

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2011/01/751.jpg

The SS 2"(?) wont be as supple as what you have, depending on what shocks you run. It'll be good with the Caravan on, but obviously stiffer when the van is off. Polyairs if you want to maintain the Caravanless ride. Shane will be able to fill you in more on his shock options.

I'd keep using the Bendix brakes that you have. They're good.

[John W]

I have 99 D2 TD5 since new & have pulled 1800kg of van. I have had a little more than my share of maintenance but nothing much that I would put down to towing particularly. Towing possibly had a little to do with the clutch pack in the auto going but there was no sign of overheating but who knows, so yes do the bigger auto cooler. I'm possibly a little too relaxed but there is a lot to be said for "if it ain't broke don't fix it"

Not mentioned in your list , as you already have sagging springs I would get a H.R. weight distribution hitch. Getting more weight on your front wheels = major improvement in steering and brakes.

[winaje]

Thanks again.

Will take your advice Simon and look into an auxiliary cooler. BTW, DPL site is crap, lol. But will look at them as well as 15800K Fan Mounted cooler kit with AN8 - 1/2" inlet - eBay (item 130387847640 end time Jan-26-11 18:56:28 PST) (http://cgi.ebay.com.au/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=130387847640&ssPageName=STRK:MEWAX:IT) and possibly use with the fan running bacwards to blow instead of suck...

John, will be using a WDH, have to work out if I use the standard receiver or try and find the Hayman Reese replacement.

Thanks pohm66, but dammit, more things to add to the list, this is not good...

[Slunnie]

I'd be inclined to select the cooler really carefully. I spent a lot of time and $ repairing transmissions and sorting coolers. Ones like that with the pipe and fins dont cool as well as the ones designed like your coolant radiator/intercooler etc, and you need to use one on the D2 that has proper pressure fittings such as multi-barb connections such as used by Pirtek etc. If you just use the slip on low pressure connections, even with the humps and bumps etc with hose clamps the Auto will blow the ATF lines off and it wont be reliable at all - I've been there several times.

Yeah, the DPL site isn't too flash at all.

[John W]

The standard receiver should be bomb proof for a 2000kg van and works well with a HR WDH.

[Redback]

Planned mods/changes (advice and thoughts please):
Bridgestone Dueler 695's in 245/75/16 with 3000lb load rating, probably from the USA direct
Replace watts linkage, sway bars and Panhard rod bushes
Replace sway bar linkages
Replace tie rod ends
Replace springs/shocks (unsure of brand or rates etc)
Install dual battery setup with Anderson Plug (ARB tray currently fitted)
Install spin on oil filter relocation kit for Z9 or similar (almost no access past ARB second battery tray)
Nudge bar or similar to mount lights and CB antenna etc
Replace stock brake hoses with braided line
Replace rotoflex
Replace thermostat
Service auto
Overhaul calipers
Overhaul brake master cylinder
Other stuff as it becomes apparent


Hi Will, all have given you good info, I wouldn't worry to much of the quoted above unless they are needed to be done, I have a home made battery tray that is larger than the ARB and still manage to change my filter, yes it's fiddlely, but still doable, save your money for other things, it's 2min to take the battery and tray out.

Also in 262,000ks in my Disco, I have only replaced the radius arm bushes and watts link and I do a lot of towing off road and on road, I wouldn't worry to much about the rotoflex unless your fitting a locker, stock brake hoses are fine too unless they need replacing.

Get a EGT, low coolent/temp and gearbox/transfer temp gauge device, always a good idea if towing, I have one, it's peace of mind to be able to monitor and to know how hot everything gets.

Get airbags with the new coils, Coilrite or Polyairs, much of a muchness. the most important things are keeping the engine and gearbox/transfer cool and suspension, set them up properly and you will be fine.

Baz.

[winaje]

Thanks guys. I have towing experience, a 35ft external tri-axle caravan, not going to mention it's weight or ball weight. Have used a 750lb WDH without hassles, but have been a bit spooked by the whole "lr receiver isn't strong enough" thing.

Have got most of the parts for the highlighted stuff already ordered Baz. Any brand names for the EGT etc sensor gauge?

Simon, what's the approx price on the DPL cooler, and what model please?

[Redback]

Thanks guys. I have towing experience, a 35ft external tri-axle caravan, not going to mention it's weight or ball weight. Have used a 750lb WDH without hassles, but have been a bit spooked by the whole "lr receiver isn't strong enough" thing.

Have got most of the parts for the highlighted stuff already ordered Baz. Any brand names for the EGT etc sensor gauge?

Simon, what's the approx price on the DPL cooler, and what model please?

Watchdog, EMS1 or 2, Enginesaver, Thermogard are all good.

Baz.