Tristan the Tickford

[123rover50]

Tristan the Tickford meets his new friend Harry the Puma at the new swimming hole created by the recent floods.
Lookout Harry. Looks a bit soft there.

[Landy Smurf]

this makes me want to cry

[123rover50]

this makes me want to cry


Why?

[isuzutoo-eh]

I think its beautiful and a real credit to the restorer :)

[bayrover]

Ok they are nice but by no means any nicer than any other series 1. I really can't see why people lose their pants over them.

[Shonky]

Land Rovers are nice, but no nicer than any other car. I really can't see why people lose their pants over them.

;)

Preferences, desires, individuality. If we didn't covet what is special then we would all be driving Kias.

PS: I'm not wearing pants.

[Landy Smurf]

Why?
because i want it

[bayrover]

Mate, do up the one's you own and you will want those just as much

[Landy Smurf]

im waiting on the engine over 6 months it has been away now :(

[123rover50]

Harrys stuck.
Harry has a snatch strap.
Tristan has 1600 cc,s of big mobs of crossflow horsepower[maybe one little mob] feeding through a constant fourwheeldrive gearbox and 600x16 bargrip tyres.
Tristan tugs Harry. mmmm .Tristan pulls Harry. No .Anyway all get together and celebrate with a drink.

[Landy Smurf]

who owns them?

[123rover50]

who owns them?


I am the current custodean of the Tickford.

[123rover50]

because i want it

You should have ducked over to Norway and bought that one last November.
Been restored earlier in its life, just that kids had stoned the windows.
Could have taped them up and driven it home.

[123rover50]

Our local car club was invited to show its cars at the Gympie Mining Museum.
Good time to take Tristan for a run. About an hour each way and he performed very well. Sits on 80k,s. Thats fast enough for worm and nut steering.

[UncleHo]

G'day Bayrover :)

If Tristan is the one that I think it is,then it has come a Looong way since I first saw it about 15 years ago a pile of parts and 2 very tired chassis from memory :) at that time there were only 3 out of the total production of 622 of them known in this country.


I think the figures are right, ?? 123rover50 ;)



cheers

[123rover50]

As usual you are right on mate.

[UncleHo]

G'day 123rover50 :)


THAT is a brilliant job :D and only one appreciated by somebody that saw the start pile :(

we will have to come up for a visit in the near future, ;)



cheers

[Landy Smurf]

argh i was in sweden last november it is so close grrrrrrr oh and yes back in sweden again now

[123rover50]

Checking Tristan prior to going to Borumba this Sunday I noticed I had a broken wrap leaf.
The narrow front springs on these early models [up to mid 50] are scarce as Rocking Horse poo so I had the option of cut and shut a rear spring or take a slice off a wide front. I chose the latter but wasnt sure if they were the same length. Cut a strip off with the 10" Makita and redrilled the centre bolt hole, slipped it over after pulling the spring pack to pieces, looked OK so bolted it back together and put it back on the wagon.
Perfect fit but if doing next time I would take a narrow cut off each side leaving the centre bolt where it is. One cut took less than 10 mins so not a big job.

Didiman

[disco2hse]

Very :cool:

Would that have affected the temper?

[isuzurover]

Very :cool:

Would that have affected the temper?

No.

[disco2hse]

No.

Even more :cool: then :)

[123rover50]

S.S.C.L.R.O.C. Open day. We met them at the camp ground after a 2 hour run from home as we were coming from the other direction. Harry the Puma came an hour or so after us in case we broke down, however all went well.
After lunch and a vehicle inspection we headed for home to arrive before dark. Still running in so 75 to 80 kph was a good speed.

[isuzutoo-eh]

It looks so diminutive!
Thanks for sharing

[dennisS1]

Looks fantastic.
75 to 80 is running in, what was the angle of the down hill slope?
80 is as fast as I push my 2l's.
Dennis

[chris1983rangie]

awesome Tickford........they look great! now you can kick back and enjoy the ride.

Also does anyone know what happened to the Tickford that Ian Goodall from Victoria used to own, several years back?

cheers Chris;)

[123rover50]

Looks fantastic.
75 to 80 is running in, what was the angle of the down hill slope?
80 is as fast as I push my 2l's.
Dennis

Hey this is on the flat Dennis. Over 80 the gearbox noise gets a bit much. I rebuilt it with new bearings but some gears were mix and match. Perhaps they will bed in.
Being a heavy little chappie stopping is more of a problem.

Didiman

[123rover50]

awesome Tickford........they look great! now you can kick back and enjoy the ride.

Also does anyone know what happened to the Tickford that Ian Goodall from Victoria used to own, several years back?

cheers Chris;)

Yes I have some photos of his when he owned it.
It is now in the safe hands of another forum member and will no doubt surface eventually.

Where is Ian now? I have a mate that wants to get in touch with him.

Didiman

[chris1983rangie]

Yeah thats great, i havent seen Ian in a while but i did go out to his place a few years ago to get some parts for my 55 and he gave me a handful of rivets, and he was showing me his photo albums in particular the Tickford.
i'm impressed to see they exist in Aus, and it's a credit to you and the other people out there that own and are currently restoring them!

Cheers Chris

[Lotz-A-Landies]

awesome Tickford........they look great! now you can kick back and enjoy the ride.

Also does anyone know what happened to the Tickford that Ian Goodall from Victoria used to own, several years back?

cheers Chris;)As mentioned it is now owned by a forum member, however I believe that it has been shipped to the UK for a body re-build before it will eventually return here.

I'm sure our mate will eventually show us.

Diana

[series1buff]

As mentioned it is now owned by a forum member, however I believe that it has been shipped to the UK for a body re-build before it will eventually return here.

I'm sure our mate will eventually show us.

Diana

It was being stored not far from me .. I had guided tour a look over it . I'll probably never see another one !

MIKE

[123rover50]

It was being stored not far from me .. I had guided tour a look over it . I'll probably never see another one !

MIKE

Yes you will. There are another couple or three that will be appearing in the next year or so.

Didiman

[123rover50]

Took Tristan to the Maleny show over the weekend to meet a few locals and one from Brissie.
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2011/06/1200.jpg
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2011/06/1201.jpg
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2011/06/1202.jpg
And isnt this P3 lovely
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2011/06/1203.jpg

[123rover50]

While I was at the show I was given this. Hand delivered all the way from the UK.
Thanks Taz and Nell
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2011/06/1198.jpg

Its a work of art.
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2011/06/1199.jpg

[123rover50]

Had a wet spell a while back so thought I would try making a pattern to get a fitting cast in Bronze. Anyone care to guess what it is?
It was made from a couple of bits of scrap 10mm MDF and a bit of broom handle machined up with the angle grinder.

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2011/09/780.jpg

[digger]

is it the knob to hold the tyre cover down?

[123rover50]

is it the knob to hold the tyre cover down?

Well done . It most certainly is. I have never seen one in the flesh so this is my interpretation of the photos I have seen.
Didiman

[123rover50]

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2011/09/752.jpg

[isuzutoo-eh]

The finishing touch, brilliant effort!
I am looking forward to admiring your work at the LR Expo later this month.

[Sleepy]

What a lovely and unique Land Rover. Thanks for preserving it. :ohyes:

[newhue]

well done, that's very clever

[123rover50]

Yesterday we went for a run with our local historic car club to celebrate the 125th anniversary of the opening of the Dickabram Bridge at Miva.
It crosses the Mary River and is one of two remaining combination road/rail bridges left in Australia. Sadly the rail is not running on this branch line anymore.
Building started in 1885 and finished in Dec 1886.
Longest span 120ft
Total length 627ft
Height above the river 75ft.
Flood water has only reached the deck once , in 1893.
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2011/09/670.jpg
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2011/09/671.jpg

Tristan was the only Landie on display. Harry the Puma came as company but had to park with the other stuff.
Amazing the comments from different people.
" We have one of those on the farm"
" I know where there is one with the steering wheel in the middle"
" Thats not the original body is it. You have made it up."
Still I made a few contacts that may turn up something.
Didiman

[Drew Parker]

" I know where there is one with the steering wheel in the middle"

This is so often heard that one wonders if they did produce more than the one.... "it" has been seen around Charters Towers in recent years ;)

[123rover50]

Loaded up and ready to head off tomorrow.

[disco2hse]

Loaded up and ready to head off tomorrow.

Holy crap, that's an impressive rig! :eek:

Alan

[JDNSW]

And here am I thinking you were going to drive Tristan down!

John

(See you Saturday)

[123rover50]

And here am I thinking you were going to drive Tristan down!

John

(See you Saturday)

Its too short to camp in and our bones are too old for sleeping on the ground anymore. At our age we need a bit of comfort.
Look forward to meeting you.

[wrinklearthur]

" I know where there is one with the steering wheel in the middle"

This is so often heard that one wonders if they did produce more than the one.... "it" has been seen around Charters Towers in recent years ;)
Hi All

Could have sworn that a Centre steer passed us last Sunday, out back of Fitzgerald. It was going the other way and it had a couple of dogs sitting in the back, a Thylacine and a Fox!

Cheers Arthur in Tassie

[wrinklearthur]

Loaded up and ready to head off tomorrow.
Hi 123rover50

There must be a story with that picture and please don't tell me it is only photoshopped !

Cheers Arthur

[123rover50]

Hi 123rover50

There must be a story with that picture and please don't tell me it is only photoshopped !

Cheers Arthur

Photoshopped.... Whats Photoshopped???????
Keith

[wrinklearthur]

Hi Keith

Thats what the cheats do to their photo's, when they are not out in the workshops, doing something constructive and worthwhile on their projects.
:wasntme:
Cheers Arthur

bite bite

[wrinklearthur]

Hi All

Now a question.

What is the original wood used for the coachwork frame in the Tickford ?

Cheers Arthur

[JDNSW]

Its too short to camp in and our bones are too old for sleeping on the ground anymore. At our age we need a bit of comfort.
Look forward to meeting you.

Advantage of a 109!

John

[JDNSW]

Hi All

Now a question.

What is the original wood used for the coachwork frame in the Tickford ?

Cheers Arthur

According to John Smith, it was Iroko.

John

[jerryd]

You should be easy to find on sunday Keith, see you then :)

[wrinklearthur]

According to John Smith, it was Iroko.

John
Thanks John

Iroko (http://www.design-technology.org/iroko.htm)

"Looks like teak and has the properties of teak but is only half the price. Naturally one of the most durable timbers because it contains natural oil. It needs no preservative outside"

Cheers Arthur

[123rover50]

According to John Smith, it was Iroko.

John

James Taylor in his book says Mahogany.
There was very little timber remaining when I bought it. I can bring a sample but I am told there will be another Tickford there unrestored that will have some exposed timber that can be examined.

Keith

[JDNSW]

It is quite possible that the same timber was not used in all of them - either changed due to experience during production, or simply due to available material in a pot-war era of shortages.

John

[series1buff]

The favourite timber for auto bodies over there was ASH

[JDNSW]

The favourite timber for auto bodies over there was ASH

Yes, and according to John Smith, iroko was used in preference to ash because it ismore rot resistant.

John

[wrinklearthur]

Yes, and according to John Smith, iroko was used in preference to ash because it ismore rot resistant.

John
Hi All

If a couple of sample of the original wood could be organised, to have them examined and identified. Where would the best place be to send them to?

Cheers Arthur

[JDNSW]

Hi All

If a couple of sample of the original wood could be organised, to have them examined and identified. Where would the best place be to send them to?

Cheers Arthur

I had a talk just now to a relative who is a forestry expert. He suggests that ANU Forestry department would be the best place to start. CSIRO would be another good try, but he believes that they have lost a lot of their timber people. He also suggested perhaps some of the TAFE colleges that specialise in wood design.

John

[wrinklearthur]

Hi All

I do know, that to identify an unknown timber, the way it used to be done, was to look at a thin section under a microscope and then compare that with other known samples.

So that should narrow up the search, to a timber expert with access to a laboratory.

I'm am going down again today, to help John Lobbon with a Disco tail light problem, He has a near complete P3 in his yard, I wonder if that timber in that cars frame would be the same as a Tickford?

I know, pictures! :rulez:

Cheers Arthur

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2011/09/462.jpg

[outback jeff]

I had a talk just now to a relative who is a forestry expert. He suggests that ANU Forestry department would be the best place to start. CSIRO would be another good try, but he believes that they have lost a lot of their timber people. He also suggested perhaps some of the TAFE colleges that specialise in wood design.

John

You may also be able to try this mob, had a mate that used to work for them, they specialize in timber

Timber Queensland - Homepage (http://www.timberqueensland.com.au/)

Cheers Jeff

[Charlie's brother]

Hi there,

I have in the past, when making timber frames for early Jaguars, used European Beech. Euro Beech was used as well as Ash in frames by the coach builders of the time. It is flexible if you cut it into narrow strips and have to laminate ie when going around hood bows etc. It is easy to use with the bandsaw and the radial arm for all of your mortice and tenon joints etc.

Don't use anything that is brittle or splits along it's length, make sure that the timber that you use is flexible.

Good luck with it.

Nick

[Dinty]

G'day All,
well I saw the Tickford,
http://i659.photobucket.com/albums/uu319/DJM110/Tickford.jpg
but I didn't see (or know about) the towing vehicle, I would have liked to eyeball that, maybe I couldn't see it because of the lousey weather, anyway cheers Dennis:angel:

[disco2hse]

I gotta tell ya. The wife says she just loves Tristan from when she saw the photos.

:)

Alan

[Lotz-A-Landies]

Hi there,

I have in the past, when making timber frames for early Jaguars, used European Beech. <snip>
Good luck with it.

NickIt's a very special vehicle in Oz so use a special Oz timber! How about Huon or Wollemi pine? There is a stand of Wollemi pine trees out near Hilton Pollard's place and I'm sure that Arthur knows where there would be some Huon pine, Bob Brown will help you go and fetch it. :wasntme:

[mikesolo]

Dinty the towing vehicle for the Tickford was a 6X6 V8 Diesel Series 2b and it looked GREAT.
Sorry no photo to wet for my camera

[123rover50]

Time for another run in Tristan.
Our local historic car club had a trip to Lake Macdonald on Sunday.
This is near Cooroy sort of inland from Noosa. Good spot, lots of room for parking and apart from a couple of other cars our mob was the only ones there. Our last trip of the year and had 20 odd cars turn up.
We left home at 8am to get to town ready to leave the club house at 9am.
Had smoko at Pomona then meandered through the backroads of Black Mountain, crossing the Bruce again and lunching at the Lake.
Left about 1.30 pm. Stopped for an icecream at Pomona again then home via the back tracks again through Kin Kin and Gympie.
Home by 4.30.
It was a fairly big day but Tristan handled it all OK. Full tank when left but about 3"" in it by the time we got home.

Keith

[123rover50]

As this engine has one of those rare and expensive bypass oil filters, I am going to change the oil every couple of hundred kays or so while it is still clean. This way I dont need to renew the filter.
The other alternative is what Bulletproof did and fit the spin on conversion.
This is a sensible idea if the car is going to be used a lot.
I wont waste the oil though, but use it for topping up the other engines around the place that have proper full flow filters.
Anyone see a problem in this idea?
Keith

[Col.Coleman]

Changing the oil sooner would keep the engine cleaner, but I'm not sure it will extend the life of the filter.

The deposits are picked up by the oil and carried to the filter, where they are strained out. The oil is still strained whether clean or dirty, the difference between the 2 is the amount of contaminate the oil can suspend and carry. The rate the filter strains the contaminates from the oil, wouldn't vary, in fact would probably increase with a constant flow of fresh oil.

Just my thoughts on it.

CC

[zulu Delta 534]

One of my old mates (about my age) who spent his working life under motors of this vintage tells me that this particular type of bypass filtration that was fitted to many early engines was proven to be only about 5% efficient and that it was fairly common practice to close off the entry and exit pipes by inserting a rivet head in each pipe.
The recommended oil change of 3000miles (around 5000km) shows very little difference with the bypass system fitted or not, and the filter itself only had a recommended 9000mile life span. Any more modern system of paper element whether spin on or not would have to be an improvement.
Conversely though, I suppose, this engine has lasted this long with this filtration system on it so it can't really be that bad, after all, 60 odd years is a bit longer than I expect my more modern common rail diesel of today to last!!
Is there still a source of these old AC pressure filters locally?
I am pondering this same question myself whilst still at the engine reassembly point with the motor out and easily accessible. Will be interested in your final decision.
Regards
Glen

[123rover50]

Thanks CC. With a full flow I could understand that. These ZS1 bypass filters only filter a tiny, tiny fraction of the oil so most solids would stay in suspension, then drop the oil hot. Let it settle before reusing.
Keith

[123rover50]

[QUOTE=zulu Delta 534;1583284]One of my old mates (about my age) who spent his working life under motors of this vintage tells me that this particular type of bypass filtration that was fitted to many early engines was proven to be only about 5% efficient and that it was fairly common practice to close off the entry and exit pipes by inserting a rivet head in each pipe.
The recommended oil change of 3000miles (around 5000km) shows very little difference with the bypass system fitted or not, and the filter itself only had a recommended 9000mile life span. Any more modern system of paper element whether spin on or not would have to be an improvement.
Conversely though, I suppose, this engine has lasted this long with this filtration system on it so it can't really be that bad, after all, 60 odd years is a bit longer than I expect my more modern common rail diesel of today to last!!
Is there still a source of these old AC pressure filters locally?


I had no new filters for ages and cut up a used one to convert to a concealed spin on then found a couple at a Toowoomba swap a few years ago. Put one on Tristan and am keeping the other for next years project.
They dont seem to be available commercially any more.
Haunt swap meets

[Col.Coleman]

It's probably one of those times where practicality over-rules originality.

Depending on how much and how you plan to use Tristan. Occasional trips and displays, probably leave the original filter and shorten up your changes as you said, but if you plan to use it more, I would look to do the same as Bulletproof did on his 80".

CC

[fc110]

As this engine has one of those rare and expensive bypass oil filters,
Has anyone ever tried "reverse flushing" them? In theory could work, once you work out inlet & outlet! And also upside down, on a really hot day, or a hot water bath? I have noticed before that some really old used ones are much heavier than new.

[gromit]

One of my old mates (about my age) who spent his working life under motors of this vintage tells me that this particular type of bypass filtration that was fitted to many early engines was proven to be only about 5% efficient and that it was fairly common practice to close off the entry and exit pipes by inserting a rivet head in each pipe.
The recommended oil change of 3000miles (around 5000km) shows very little difference with the bypass system fitted or not, and the filter itself only had a recommended 9000mile life span. Any more modern system of paper element whether spin on or not would have to be an improvement.
Conversely though, I suppose, this engine has lasted this long with this filtration system on it so it can't really be that bad, after all, 60 odd years is a bit longer than I expect my more modern common rail diesel of today to last!!
Is there still a source of these old AC pressure filters locally?
I am pondering this same question myself whilst still at the engine reassembly point with the motor out and easily accessible. Will be interested in your final decision.
Regards
Glen

My understanding was that the bypass filter was actually much better at filtering but the disadvantage was that it only filtered a small percentage of the oil at a time.
With a full flow you have to pass all the oil flow through it so the pore size has to be larger so that you don't reduce the flow too much. The bypass filter was supposedly a much finer filter because it only filtered a small percentage of the oil.

It's interesting that you can still buy bypass filters to fit to modern vehicles (maybe another Hyclone or maybe they actually work ?) Oil Filters,Bypass Oil Filters,Bypass Oil Filter (http://jackmasteroilfilters.com.au/)

I ran Austin Somersets in the UK with bypass filters and the motors lasted well but then I also ran a lot of British motorcycles that had no filter, just a wire gauze to catch the big bits that broke off and as long as the oil was changed regularly they lasted OK as well.
Thinking about it, did the VW Beetle have an oil filter ?

Changing the oil more frequently will help remove any contaminants but I wouldn't dismiss the old bypass filter....

http://www.alternative-energy-resources.net/bypass_oil_filter.html
http://www.machinerylubrication.com/Read/28508/bypass-filters



Colin

[zulu Delta 534]

I wonder what the possibility would be of modifying the AC canister so that it could contain, or at least camouflage, a Frantz type "toilet roll" system. It would probably mean cutting the existing canister in two so that it could be opened and reclosed to allow filter roll changes down the line.
When we had coaches running round the country, both Mercedes and Hinos, all were fitted with a "Frantz" type bypass system and it elongated our oil life considerably. With the mileages these vehicles were doing it saved us around about one 44gallon drum of oil per month, so I reckon on a S1 with such a small engine and minuscule mileage, one filter should last a couple of years!
At least the principal is similar.
Regards
glen

[gromit]

I wonder what the possibility would be of modifying the AC canister so that it could contain, or at least camouflage, a Frantz type "toilet roll" system. It would probably mean cutting the existing canister in two so that it could be opened and reclosed to allow filter roll changes down the line.
When we had coaches running round the country, both Mercedes and Hinos, all were fitted with a "Frantz" type bypass system and it elongated our oil life considerably. With the mileages these vehicles were doing it saved us around about one 44gallon drum of oil per month, so I reckon on a S1 with such a small engine and minuscule mileage, one filter should last a couple of years!
At least the principal is similar.
Regards
glen

Glen,
I think the casing is too thin but you could make a 2 piece aluminium housing, spray it with hammer finish paint and it would look like the canister. Just need to get the dimensions of the bypass filters and work out the internal porting
It would take a couple of big bits of aluminium which could either be threaded and screwed together or have screws hidden in the underside.

I have a 1.6 bottom end (holed pistons) down the shed and it still has the canister filter fitted I'll have a look when I get a moment.


Colin

[isuzurover]

My understanding was that the bypass filter was actually much better at filtering but the disadvantage was that it only filtered a small percentage of the oil at a time.
With a full flow you have to pass all the oil flow through it so the pore size has to be larger so that you don't reduce the flow too much. The bypass filter was supposedly a much finer filter because it only filtered a small percentage of the oil.

It's interesting that you can still buy bypass filters to fit to modern vehicles (maybe another Hyclone or maybe they actually work ?) Oil Filters,Bypass Oil Filters,Bypass Oil Filter (http://jackmasteroilfilters.com.au/)

I ran Austin Somersets in the UK with bypass filters and the motors lasted well but then I also ran a lot of British motorcycles that had no filter, just a wire gauze to catch the big bits that broke off and as long as the oil was changed regularly they lasted OK as well.
Thinking about it, did the VW Beetle have an oil filter ?

Changing the oil more frequently will help remove any contaminants but I wouldn't dismiss the old bypass filter....

Bypass Oil Filter - Use the best bypass oil filter - Use Amsoil (http://www.alternative-energy-resources.net/bypass_oil_filter.html)
Advantages of Bypass Filters (http://www.machinerylubrication.com/Read/28508/bypass-filters)



Colin

Yes, you are correct. Full flow filters catch the rocks, bypass filters are able to remove much smaller particles.

Many trucks have full flow + bypass filters (or centrifuges). The TD5 has a full flow filter and Bypass centrifuge (generally better than a bypass filter). Some toyota diesels have a combined FF+Bypass filter in the one spin-on element.

I have seen a few series 1s converted to a remote mount full flow filter.

[gromit]

Yes, you are correct. Full flow filters catch the rocks, bypass filters are able to remove much smaller particles.

Many trucks have full flow + bypass filters (or centrifuges). The TD5 has a full flow filter and Bypass centrifuge (generally better than a bypass filter). Some toyota diesels have a combined FF+Bypass filter in the one spin-on element.

I have seen a few series 1s converted to a remote mount full flow filter.

So the question is .... why would you convert to a less efficient filter ?

I guess it all comes down to cost and availability. Making up a housing to look like an original bypass filter will be expensive unless you cast the two parts (otherwise there will be a lot of waste).
Full flow filters are cheap so once the housing is purchased the ongoing costs are low.

Might be worth looking at as long as you can source a bypass element that will fit inside, surely someone in the UK must have already done this ?

Colin

[chazza]

Might be worth looking at as long as you can source a bypass element that will fit inside, surely someone in the UK must have already done this ?

Colin

Yes they have; check out the S1 Club website.

One advantage of the spin on filter is that it is much easier to change than the bypass filter apparently. I am going to fit a remote bypass filter on the bulkhead on mine,

Cheers Charlie

[123rover50]

The last weekend in May is the Goomeri Pumpkin Festival so we took Tristan for a look. It gets bigger every year.
The contestants buy a pumpkin and try to make it roll all the way down Policemans Hill in one shot.
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2012/05/232.jpg
The finish line is out of sight to the right.

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2012/05/233.jpg

Afterwards the public can help themselves to any surviving pumpkins

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2012/05/234.jpg

Keith

[123rover50]

We have been taking Tristan to the pub for lunch on some Sundays to keep the oil moving and stop the clutch from sticking.
Last trip we just made it home as the water pump bearings failed and it dropped all the coolant.
Its in the shed now for repair.
I had tried to repair an alloy pump when I first built it up but now will use a steel one as its in better nick.
The alloy pumps and some steel ones have a 38 mm approx diameter seal. The generic replacement that I bought with the generic replacement bearing is around 36 mm but as it happens it fits this steel pump perfectly.
Another difference is in the bearings. Some have an impeller with a small hole and need the shaft turning down and some such as the one I am using have a bigger hole the same size as the shaft.
Another difference is the pump body I will use. (centre marked Made in England) has no hole for a locking screw and is clear straight through, as in has no lip to divert a leaky seal to the drain hole. This means the bearing can be pushed in from either end. Makes it easier to get the impeller off.
I dont think that will be a problem as the new bearings look to have a better seal on the ends in case water gets past the water pump seal.

[123rover50]

The generic seal comes complete with a ceramic insert. One can use this or stay with the original method and polish the face of the impeller for the carbon to run on.
I chose the former as the impeller face was pretty pitted.
I machined out a recess in the face for the ceramic insert. It has a ribbed rubber casing so just presses in.

[1950landy]

I was going to ask you if you wanted a original seal, I still have a couple in gasket sets that I have , but see you have sorted it as usual.[smilebigeye]

[123rover50]

I was going to ask you if you wanted a original seal, I still have a couple in gasket sets that I have , but see you have sorted it as usual.[smilebigeye]

Thanks but I bought a couple from Craddocks. The 38mm size rubber outer. I might try and rebuild an alloy pump to put back later.
I hadnt realised there were so many variations.

[JDNSW]

So the question is .... why would you convert to a less efficient filter ?
.......
Colin

The question really comes down to "what do you mean by "efficient"? One that removes smaller particles or one that filters all the oil?" When filters were first fitted to car engines, they were invariably bypass ones, as far as I remember, and only about the mid sixties were filters of any kind (almost) invariably fitted to car engines - and these were by then almost invariably full flow. In the last few years, as mentioned elsewhere in this thread, fitting both has become more common.

This level of filtration has become more important as oil change intervals increased. What are current Defenders? 20,000km? My 110 is 10,000km, my 2a is 5000km, and from memory, my Series 1 was 1,000 miles.

When you change at short intervals, filtering is not as important.

[123rover50]

One of the local machinery shops had the fat O ring. Its an N7 _ 311.
I got 3 for $1.50.
I Machined down the air hose fitting that screwed into the pump to support the O ring.
Pushed the new carbon seal into the pump and pressed on the impeller.
Its all bolted up now. Will do the Thermo housing later.

K