Tracking down the vibration

[wouldbeowner]

Hello again. OK, I have started trying to track down the vibration that I get at about 92kph and over.
I should mention that previous owner had the seals on the swivel hubs done not too long ago.
Had a look at both front wheels/hubs this arvo.
Left hub - inside area (swivel ) is clean - no grease showing - and wheel has no movement at all indicating bearings etc good and tight.
Right(drivers) hub - has lots of grease showing and seeping - I assume that the seals on this swivel hub havent been correctly done or havent been tightened enough.
When I grab the front and the rear of the tyre and try to wobble it there is no movement. However, when I grab the top and the bottom and try to move it there is some slight but nevertheless noticeable, movement - the same sort of movement you would get if you had a slightly loose bearing but in this case it is only evident in the vertical plane.
Any thoughts or suggestions on the subject would be greatly appreciated.
Thanks
Tim

[steveG]

The seal itself was probably done OK, but if the swivel bearings are stuffed its not going to be able to seal.

Swivel bearing issues have been covered plenty of times so a search should bring up the details.

Steve

[wouldbeowner]

Thanks Steve. So, is that symptom I described - movement in the vertical plane but non in the horizontal plane - consistent with a worn swivel bearing?

You are right about the volume of posts involving swivel bearing issues but I havent noticed one that specifically answers this question.

Another problem is that there is SOOOOO much on swivel bearings that a new chum like me cant see the wood for the trees.

Cheers
Tim

[steveG]

Yes - that would be the symptom (assuming its not wheel bearing since you've got no movement in horizontal plane).
There's actually 2 swivel bearings, an upper and a lower one and the play/preload is adjusted with shims. I've only played with Disco ones - but AFAIK all pretty much the same.

If its got play, then probably the bearings need replacing.

BTW - if you haven't already got one - grab a Rave CD from the shop here. It makes it much easier to understand if you can read thru the manual and look at the pictures.

Steve

[steveG]

Some good tips in here:
http://www.aulro.com/afvb/technical-chatter/37306-help-needed.html

Steve

[wouldbeowner]

Much appreciated Steve.
Cheers

[wouldbeowner]

There is oil seeping from the swivel hub in question. Is it possible that adjusting the bearing would cure this or do I really need to start the job with a hub kit (all bearings and seals) and assume that all seals will need to be replaced?
After following Steve's link then a few others that were piggy backed off these I bumped into some excellent step by step guides with good photos so the thought of doing it is not too daunting.
Cheers

[slug_burner]

If you had no knowledge of the prior history and see weeping seals and play in the bearings you'd go with the whole kit and do the whole job. No good getting half the bits and then as your part way through the job you find you need to go out and get more bits.

What sort of money are we likely to save by not getting the need seals?

[wouldbeowner]

If you had no knowledge of the prior history and see weeping seals and play in the bearings you'd go with the whole kit and do the whole job. No good getting half the bits and then as your part way through the job you find you need to go out and get more bits.

What sort of money are we likely to save by not getting the need seals?

You are right. There are various kits on ebay. They range from $155 for 2 hubs (bearings and seals) to nearly $200 for 1 hub. At this stage I am looking at getting the $155 kit and a 52mm hub nut socket.
Thanks for confirming what I already was thinking.

[JDNSW]

Depending on the age of the vehicle you have either tapered roller bearings top and bottom, or, more likely, tapered roller bearing at the bottom and a fibre bush at the top with a fibre thrust washer. Fixing it may be as simple as adjusting the preload with no further disassembly - and this may fix the leak as well - if there is movement on the swivel bearings, this allows the seal to move away from the ball, with a consequent leak.

But if this does not fix it, a complete disassembly and replace parts as needed is indicated. Depending mainly on previous maintenance, this could include replacing the tapered roller bearing, the top swivel pin, the bush and thrust washer, the seal, and possibly the CV joint and the inner axle bearing. And while you are at it, have a good look at the wheel bearings.

John

[wouldbeowner]

Depending on the age of the vehicle you have either tapered roller bearings top and bottom, or, more likely, tapered roller bearing at the bottom and a fibre bush at the top with a fibre thrust washer.
John

Thanks John. It is a 1995 130 Dual Cab - I was assuming it was top and bottom taper bearing. Any thoughts?
Cheers
Tim

[wouldbeowner]

Well I tried to adjust the pressure on the top swivel bearing today. Took out 1 shim (three were fitted) and can still feel the vertical plane movement so looks like next step is the full monty. Tried removing two but the pressure needed to steer/turn mechanism was about 2.5kg so put one shim back.
Swivel ball looks in good condition so it wont need to be replaced. Good thing about trying to do the shims on the top bearing is that you are 25% of the way down the track to doing the lot - good practice.
While down there did notice some movement in front torsion bar rubbers and tie rod end so I guess they will need to be done at some stage soon.

[JDNSW]

Thanks John. It is a 1995 130 Dual Cab - I was assuming it was top and bottom taper bearing. Any thoughts?
Cheers
Tim

Sorry I missed this question. Pretty certain that will have the fibre top bush rather than the two taper roller bearings - I think they came in about the same time as the TD5, but my newest Landrover is pre-Defender.

John

[PAT303]

It would have bearings top and bottom.You can't fix it buy taking out the shim,remove the hub and replace the bearings.It is not a hard job and best yet set it up at a good working height and sit on the wheel and it's easy on your back.Set the bearing pre-load to the tightest weight as they will bed in. Pat