Chassis prep and paint help

[Mustlust]

Hi Guys,

Am brushing down the chassis, which is in really good cond. for an almost 50 yr old frame, and was wondering what is the best and most practical way to deal with the inside of the box chassis???? I think I soaked the inside with fish oil on my old SIII, but am about to repaint the SIIA proper like and want to clean it up as best I can.
Also, what is the best paint to use on the chassis????

Cheers

[dullbird]

every will probably say Galvanize it or Por15...

I just used Chassis black as the paint had lasted 46yrs on it so I figured why not another 40years :)

If you can go the two I first mentioned this would be tougher but with tough there is a cost.

I just painted mine, have a look at the thread "Little Miss Adventure" in projects and tutorials

[Blknight.aus]

the best way to clean it is with an acid dip.

the best way to paint it is a hot dip galv.

[Johnno1969]

Yep, I'm really interested to hear what people have to say here, too. Mine's at about the same stage. Down to the chassis; just about to brush it down and I am wondering what I should be using on it to give it a good hard surface for the next 46 years....

[Johnno1969]

Waxoyl and Hammerite, just so I can join the crowd in all those Land Rover magazines.....?

[chazza]

I galvanised my S1 chassis but I don't think I would again after discovering how good Penetrol is. The Flood Company Australia (http://www.floodaustralia.net/)

Get the chassis sand-blasted or acid-dipped and use Penetrol on any rust that was missed and inside all of the box sections and then paint it. Squirt Penetrol inside once a year to be sure no rust is starting,

Cheers Charlie

[Veryan]

I had a new chassis galved, but you have to watch out as *sometimes* they can warp in the galv process. Once gavled, i scrubed it with scotchbrite pads, and a de-oxidiser and then gave it a through scrub with more scotchbite pads and thinner, and finally wiped down with wax/oil remover. I then etch primed the chassis, and coated it with POR15.

Im not sure that I would use POR15 again. Despite using the manufactures instructions and using the correct thinner, it seemed a little thin...time will tell. Plus with POR15 you have to check that the base coat and thinners will not react. I had a bad experience with this on my axle casings. The POR15 reacted with the enamel overspray when I was painting the white disk on my rear axle casing. TEST and test again. But that does apply to all paints.

I think next time I would use a standard industrial enamel with hardener addded to it. Did my friends ute it this, and once fully hardened, its damn hard. Could barely cut it back (!).

J

[clubagreenie]

With gal and warping I gal'd my SII chassis and was advised that warping occurs more when dipped vertically rather than horizontally as vertically is heating that chassis from one side. Sounded plausible at the time so went with it. Had to wait a couple of weeks for the tank to be available but didn't have an issue.

This was all done without the rear cross member so there was better flow for the gal, at their advice (took chassis for quote w/out member at the time. Was acid dipped then fresh soaked, then gal'd. Then attached the member and took back and re dipped the whole thing again.

Then enameled with hardener and then painted with orminoid. Also ran conduit through chassis for wiring and brake lines. Then flushed with fish oil as well.

[Lostkiwi]

With gal and warping I gal'd my SII chassis and was advised that warping occurs more when dipped vertically rather than horizontally as vertically is heating that chassis from one side. Sounded plausible at the time so went with it. Had to wait a couple of weeks for the tank to be available but didn't have an issue.

This was all done without the rear cross member so there was better flow for the gal, at their advice (took chassis for quote w/out member at the time. Was acid dipped then fresh soaked, then gal'd. Then attached the member and took back and re dipped the whole thing again.

Then enameled with hardener and then painted with orminoid. Also ran conduit through chassis for wiring and brake lines. Then flushed with fish oil as well.


Well That should last for the next 46 years then!!:eek:....................if not longer!!!

[Lostkiwi]

With mine Ive just wire brushed it with the good old wire wheel on the angle grinder
Then painted on the wattle Rust Kill Then there etch primer finished off with a top coat of wattle black!!
It's part of there 3 part series
It been on there for a whole 9 months now and no rust!!:Rolling:
Cant afford to get it galvanized as the freight is horrendous:(

[peterg1001]

When I did my first chassis, I went to all the trouble in the world Fixing the chassis (http://greenacre.biz/landrover/929_fixchassis/929_fixchassis.htm).

Second time around, I got the chassis sand-blasted, then etch primed it with Wattyl spray-on etch primer. The cans are a bit expensive, but in the end it only took about 3 cans at $12 each.

Following that, I brushed the lot with at least one coat of red oxide primer, White Knight from memory. I don't usually use White Knight, but their red oxide is good.

Following that it got 2 coats of Killrust black enamel.

It's been at least as durable as the POR-15 job, and a lot easier to put on.

Peter

[korg20000bc]

I'm going to use Penetrol- it has long proven effectiveness, reasonably inexpensive and applicable for marine situations. It can be sprayed into cavities too. Then I'll just use some chassis black with penetrol added. http://floodaustralia.net/factfiles/penetrol.pdf