Gearbox Service

[wayneg]

I am planning on a fluid, filter a sump gasket change on the Auto box. Something I have never in my life done on any car. Have read all the usual threads on various sites and cant get how much fluid I can get out and thus replace.
Mine is the later type with no dipstick. The only figure I have got is 5ltrs that Paulp38a used is that right.
I will be doing this on my back on the floor so any tips tricks or warnings please feel free to help me get my head round whats involved.

[Hoges]

Did you see the extensive write up on Range Rovers (http://www.rangerovers.net) on this topic? It's most informative. Good luck!!

[wayneg]

Yes reading that gave me the incentive to DIY. Was going to take it to a gearbox place but as it seems relativly easy and my wish to do all I can will prevail Still cant get why it holds 10 litres buy only half can be changed

[Junosi]

I did mine about 6 months ago - filter and oil. Was pretty painless and not difficult. Was much easier than doing the same job on my old discovery. Can't recall how much oil I used - but 5 litres (or less) sounds about right. I do remember buying two containers of oil and only using one. Mine has a dipstick

[mike 90 RR]

Still cant get why it holds 10 litres buy only half can be changed

Wayne
The gearbox has 2 parts
1 is the gearbox ... The other is the Torque converter
Both act as separate vessels (containers) for holding the oil

When you drop the oil pan of the box ... all your changing (dropping) is the oil that the gearbox holds ....

For the final level .... (You will have to research it) .... but I think you will find it is "fill to the level of the bung hole" (filler hole) on the side of the box, where the dip stick tube use to be on previous models

To figure out how much oil to use ..... drop and collect the oil in a clean tray
Grab an old oil container and fill it up .... Oil containers usually have a clear line and litre amount written on the side of them .... other way is, buy a cheap plastic food measuring container and just record it


Cheers
Mike

[glenhendry]

I can confirm that when I dropped the ATF out of my 2000 HSE Auto last weekend that only 5 litres went back in. So buying two 5 litre bottles was a waste.

Dont forget that after you fill it until it starts to run out of the filler hole, you have to partially screw the filler plug back in and turn the engine on and run through the gears and complete the fill while engine is idling. I have the forearm burns from the exhaust pipes to prove it.

Absolutely buy a plastic pump that screws onto the new bottle of ATF from supercheap or similar for <$10. They work magic. And some turps to clean it up after.

Lots of rags and carboard boxes for the garage floor, and consider doing the TC at the same time, it uses the same fluid/tools.

My gearbox used allen screws, 8mm for the filler bung and 6mm for the drain bung I think.

[wayneg]

Did the service today , All straightforward, no burns on arms and 5 litres of oil was enough.
The Old oil looked nasty brown and the magnet had 2 to 3mm of metalic slime attached.
As I have no service record is this the norm for a regularly serviced auto or does this indicate an extended period since the last ( if ever ) change. The orange oil seal on the old filter pickup broke up on removal.

[Blknight.aus]

now change the oil again and I bet that it comes out the same icky colour the first lot did.

[wayneg]

do you think its necessary?

[Blknight.aus]

yep...

all told the ZF takes about 10l when its running because most of the oil is in the TC and the cooler. if youve only put in 5l then you've only changed half the oil.

if the oil was shot then all youve really done is contaminated your new oil with the old stuff and if the old stuff was shot.......

if you're going to do "progressive" oil changes on the auto then you do the change every 12 months if your going to do full flush and filter then you only need to do it every 50K Km or so. There's advantages and disadvantages to both methods.

[wayneg]

So am I just waisting money doing it myself. How do I do a full flush or is this a specialist only thing.
I have read some torque converters have drain plugs, is this the case on the RR

[Blknight.aus]

nope torque converters in cars dont have them they'd make balancing the buggers a snot of a job.

the torque converter housing (aka the bell housing) have drain plugs.

you dont need any super special tools to flush the auto properly, just some time and patients.

it can take up to 20 L and you will need a pump or method of getting your fluid into the auto, a drain pan of suitable capacity and some hose to cover the fitting from one of the cooler lines and the cooler side of the fitting.
a new filter and sump gasket if you plan on doing the whole thing just right.
someone to start and stop the engine also helps.

simply disconnect one side of your trans oil cooler hook up your 2 hoses to the cooler line and fittings and aim them into your drain pain (I prefer to use a 2l tub in the pan.

dran and drop the pan replace the filter, gasket and everything else (clean it all well prior to starting)
fill the pan and start the engine
when the cooler lines start to flow oil turn off the engine and add 1.5l of oil to the auto
restart the engine and drain out 1.5l of oil from the hoses on the lines on the cooler.
repeat as required and you'll notice the oil start to change colour. when the oil is near enough to the same colour as new oil put the cooler line back on the fitting start the engine and top up as per the instructions on your particular auto. (for the ZF its a 2mm bead of oil coming from the fill plug)

Done.

do that every 50K Km.

OR...

drain the pan and replace the oil in there every 12 months then when you hit the 50K/36 month mark, remove the pan, clean the pan and change the filter.

A proper full flush requires a machine that does basically what Ive just outlined but it does it all automatically, makes less mess and takes less time to do.

[redandy3575]

Did my trany about a month ago. Lucky for me the colour of the oil was a nice clear pink, which indicated a realively clean oil. The filter had a bit of black gunk in it and was replaced. i would put it down to replacing the trany oil at least every 24 months to stay on top of the maintenance schedule.

[RR P38]

nope torque converters in cars dont have them they'd make balancing the buggers a snot of a job.

the torque converter housing (aka the bell housing) have drain plugs.

you dont need any super special tools to flush the auto properly, just some time and patients.

it can take up to 20 L and you will need a pump or method of getting your fluid into the auto, a drain pan of suitable capacity and some hose to cover the fitting from one of the cooler lines and the cooler side of the fitting.
a new filter and sump gasket if you plan on doing the whole thing just right.
someone to start and stop the engine also helps.

simply disconnect one side of your trans oil cooler hook up your 2 hoses to the cooler line and fittings and aim them into your drain pain (I prefer to use a 2l tub in the pan.

dran and drop the pan replace the filter, gasket and everything else (clean it all well prior to starting)
fill the pan and start the engine
when the cooler lines start to flow oil turn off the engine and add 1.5l of oil to the auto
restart the engine and drain out 1.5l of oil from the hoses on the lines on the cooler.
repeat as required and you'll notice the oil start to change colour. when the oil is near enough to the same colour as new oil put the cooler line back on the fitting start the engine and top up as per the instructions on your particular auto. (for the ZF its a 2mm bead of oil coming from the fill plug)

Done.

do that every 50K Km.

OR...

drain the pan and replace the oil in there every 12 months then when you hit the 50K/36 month mark, remove the pan, clean the pan and change the filter.

A proper full flush requires a machine that does basically what Ive just outlined but it does it all automatically, makes less mess and takes less time to do.

Yes i agree with this approach.
If you are only dropping the pan fluid you are doing a 50% change.
Drive it for a week or so drop the fluid again and you have freashened the fluid up to the tune of 75%.
Then i would do it yearly or 20k KM max.
Fluid is cheap a trans is about $3500.
And if looked after a ZF will easily give 400,000km service.
I have dropped the fluid out of D2s with the fluid looking like very dirty engine oil.
Some people just dont look after them:mad:

[Blknight.aus]

Im pretty sure I have an auto change coming up....

I'll do the tute if it happens

[wayneg]

I will give it a couple of weeks and change the 5 ltrs again.
Some cars definitely have a drain plug in the torque converter. Shame Land Rovers dont.
I only know this as I have a Mercedes SL500 and some do and some dont have the drain plug. A quick search on Google will give plenty of instruction and pics.
here is a similar Mercedes Box

PeachPartsWiki: 722.6 Transmission Fluid and Filter Change (http://www.peachparts.com/Wikka/Trans7226Fluid)

[WasabiPimpNinja]

Alternatively, you could just do something similar to this...

YouTube - 10 Min Atomatic Transmission Fluid Flush + Replacement (Most Cars)

Cheers,
Keels.