Bilsteins

[harro]

E Shocks have informed me the Blisteins they carry for the Defender 110
B46-0243, B46-0253, are not suitable for a defender with a 2 inch lift (mine is closer to 40mm now).

I thought most standard shocks could handle up to a 2 inch lift?

Does anybody here run these shocks on a 110 with a lift?

And did they work OK?


Cheers,
Paul.

[isuzurover]

E Shocks have informed me the Blisteins they carry for the Defender 110
B46-0243, B46-0253, are not suitable for a defender with a 2 inch lift (mine is closer to 40mm now).

I thought most standard shocks could handle up to a 2 inch lift?

Does anybody here run these shocks on a 110 with a lift?

And did they work OK?


Cheers,
Paul.

Lifting a vehicle without changing the shocks will mean you have less down travel and more up travel. You may also bottom out the shock regularly on extension - which will cause a very rough ride if it happens on corrugated roads etc. Depending on the lift you may no longer be able to use the full up travel of the shock.

In short, you should fit longer shocks if you lift the suspension (but need to ensure they won't bottom out on compression.

[justinc]

E Shocks have informed me the Blisteins they carry for the Defender 110
B46-0243, B46-0253, are not suitable for a defender with a 2 inch lift (mine is closer to 40mm now).

I thought most standard shocks could handle up to a 2 inch lift?

Does anybody here run these shocks on a 110 with a lift?

And did they work OK?


Cheers,
Paul.

Paul, I have fitted the 0243's front with 130 springs,(30mm talller) and lowered the rear top shock brackets 40mm for the 0253's, works well and no clearance/compression or top out issues. Have to use disloction cones though.

JC

[CraigE]

I have them fitted to my Defender with a 2" Kings Spring lift which is more like 35-40mm and have had no issues.

[Tusker]

Lifting a vehicle without changing the shocks will mean you have less down travel and more up travel. You may also bottom out the shock regularly on extension - which will cause a very rough ride if it happens on corrugated roads etc. Depending on the lift you may no longer be able to use the full up travel of the shock.

In short, you should fit longer shocks if you lift the suspension (but need to ensure they won't bottom out on compression.

My experience is different.

Std shocks with a mild lift work through exactly the same cycle as the factory setup. Its only the starting point that's different. Some people think they "lose" down travel. They're not losing anything.

On corrugations this setup is better, in that there's less bottoming out when you hit a washaway or something. That extra 2" is really useful.

I've never had problems on corrugations with this setup at full extension.

I agree though that properly matched & mounted quality longer shocks perform better.

Regards
Max P

[marting]

So JC, what you are saying is that still using standard length travel shocks, and by lowering the top shock mount 40mm, you are increasing the 'down' travel by 40mm, and the shocks have no issues with bottoming out? Therefore the overall available travel is increased by 40mm?
I am in the market for new shocks and would like to increase the travel if I could, but I don't want to lift the car (won't fit into the garage). My understanding is if I run + 2inch shocks I need dislocation cones at the front and rear, and also need to modify the rear shock mounts.
Any thoughts would be greatly appreciated.
Cheers, Martin