Help! Problems fitting axles

[dullbird]

we are currently and have been for the last 3hrs been trying to get the front axles into the housing and the diff.

Ian said he has never had this much trouble putting axles into a diff EVER.

what are we doing wrong?

we can get the axle to slot in the diff and it happily turns the gears in the diff.. however we cant get the axles in enough that we can then fit the stub axle...sits proud by about half and inch due to the knuckle on the uni..(if that makes sense)

We have pulled the front diff and fitted another diff we have changed the shafts thinking it was them...we can get them to slot in while the diff is out but don't appear to be able to do it once the diff is in the housing.

My concern was that the housing may be bent..why I don't know however the axles do slot in reasonably well we just cant get them that last little bloody bit!!

Something isn't right and we don't know what it is

[JDNSW]

Never run into that problem. Confirm that the problem is at the diff by placing the axles in with the diff out - I think you have done that. With them in place confirm that the space between the axle ends is greater than the width of the cross shaft in the diff centre, This all being OK, next check the straightness of the axle housing. With the diff in place you should be able to sight through from one side to the other past the cross shaft - If you have a piece of paper with a series of concentric circles centred on the end of the housing, and with a light behind it, the view through the diff should be concentric with them when looking through a pinhole centred in the other end of the housing. You may want to repeat from the other side, but I think any bend in the housing will be obvious just looking from one side.

If this is all OK, look carefully at the splines on the shafts and the diff sun gears - No slight wear steps? No burrs?

Failing all this, I'm about out of ideas!

John

[Dinty]

G'day All, I would be looking at the interference fit of the axle into bearing at the rear of the spindle housing (swivel chrome ball) especially since you say that you have changed axles, it has to be something simple all the best cheers Dennis

[Blknight.aus]

you're not fouling the axle on the bearing inside the axle tube are you?

[dullbird]

you're not fouling the axle on the bearing inside the axle tube are you?

The problem is dave it feels like the axle is going into the diff because if you turn the axle it turns the diff but it just was not going in enough for us to be able to put the stub axle up flush to the swivel housing.

Ian did actually just get them in but it took beating them in with a hammer???? The we realised that we never actually put any gasket paste on the fact of the diff so then had to get the bastard things back out again...and again needed to use a big hammer.

Ian doesn't recall having any dramas getting them out which is why he finds it so hard to understand why they are reluctant to go back in.
Surely you should not have to take a hammer to it each time you try.

[wrinklearthur]

Hi

just left a posting on the other thread as well.

The diff housing's on series 1's are narrower than the series 2A.
I have used this fact to improve the turning circle of the series 1 landies, by replacing with Series 2A front and back axle housings and axles.
Also when replacing a broken axle in a 88" series 1, the cost of the rarely found axle to suit, makes fitting series 2 axles into the rear a much more sensible repair.
The extra length of the half shalf is taken up by making a spacer to pack out between the hub and the driving flange.
most of these spacers are made from old driving flanges machined in a lathe to suit.
Cheers Arthur

[wrinklearthur]

Hi

just left a posting on the other thread as well.

The diff housing's on series 1's are narrower than the series 2A.
I have used this fact to improve the turning circle of the series 1 landies, by replacing with Series 2A front and back axle housings and axles.
Also when replacing a broken axle in a 88" series 1, the cost of the rarely found axle to suit, makes fitting series 2 axles into the rear a much more sensible repair.
The extra length of the half shalf is taken up by making a spacer to pack out between the hub and the driving flange.
most of these spacers are made from old driving flanges machined in a lathe to suit.
Cheers Arthur

I might add that this practice has resulted in some series 2A getting out there with the narrow diff housings. Buyer beware!! :no2:
Not good !

Cheers Arthur

[dullbird]

I might add that this practice has resulted in some series 2A getting out there with the narrow diff housings. Buyer beware!! :no2:
Not good !

Cheers Arthur


Even so Arthur we cant get the axles we took out of the housing back in easily so your theory should not have any real relevance to the situation we are currenlty experiencing..because its the same parts plus we have tried other parts too.

[Blknight.aus]

Im assuming its the front axle....

at the joint of the swivel housing and the axle tube there is a roller bearing occasionally this will skew and catch on the shoulder of the race on the shaft.

usually the splines will engage to about 1/2 way before you hit this bearing.

to test it pack the splines of the axle with grease and insert it, the grease will be displaced and indicate how far in you're getting apply the same to the bearing race and see whats fouls where.

[dullbird]

Im assuming its the front axle....

at the joint of the swivel housing and the axle tube there is a roller bearing occasionally this will skew and catch on the shoulder of the race on the shaft.

usually the splines will engage to about 1/2 way before you hit this bearing.

to test it pack the splines of the axle with grease and insert it, the grease will be displaced and indicate how far in you're getting apply the same to the bearing race and see whats fouls where.


yes it is the front axle..thats a good idea I.e the grease thanks dave

[JDNSW]

Any developments?

John

[dullbird]

no might not get to it for a couple of days now as we are both working and we dont tend to get in until late:(

[Veryan]

I had this problem on my SII putting the front half shafts back in, and on my SIII. They were a pain to get out, and then only went in about half way. After a lot of swearing i figured out it was the half shaft bearing and new half shaft seal 'fowling'. I spent ages jiggling it around to get it it, i may have used a rubber mallet at one point for some gentle encourgement. I found it had to go in very 'square' and then it just slide fully home.

[RobHay]

.........did we manage to get them in? If so what was the problem

[dullbird]

no still working..Ian will probably have another go on Friday. he said he is going to put the axles in on there own first and see if they fowl:)

[RobHay]

Aaaahhhhh....I see what the problem is...you've got a chook stuck in there somehow....pluck it out and maybe it won't foul on the fowl.:p

[dullbird]

woops!!:D

[wagoo]

Have you changed swivel housings and roller bearings at all?The inner race and the roller bearing used to be made as matched pairs and do not always interchange. You could try removing the swivel balls and prefitting the axle to it and then bolting it up to the axle housing.if the axle slides easily in and out of the bearing but is difficult to pull out once the ball is bolted back up then it is likely you have a bent axle housing.
Wagoo.

[dullbird]

no swivel housings have not been touched only axles have been pulled out..now they were easy to get out I would of thought that if the housing was bent that it would be hard to get them out in the first instance?????

will try the axles on there own and see hoe we go...will update you as soon as we have done something:)

[dullbird]

So other than trying the axles Ian has ordered some seals and wheel bearings from paddocks.....

So I thought I might chuck the engine back in tomorrow..does anyone for see any dramas with me putting the engine back in before the wheels are on?

I want the wheels on first because I figured it would be safer but I'm sick of the wheel side of things hindering process the chassis is up on 4 axle stands and I can add another two for stability...what you reckon?

[JDNSW]

So other than trying the axles Ian has ordered some seals and wheel bearings from paddocks.....

So I thought I might chuck the engine back in tomorrow..does anyone for see any dramas with me putting the engine back in before the wheels are on?

I want the wheels on first because I figured it would be safer but I'm sick of the wheel side of things hindering process the chassis is up on 4 axle stands and I can add another two for stability...what you reckon?

Four decent axle stands under the chassis are probably even better than the wheels on - no movement at all. I would have no hesitation putting the engine in with them holding the chassis. Probably better if the front ones were reasonably close to the front of the chassis, but if you have the springs on, then behind the rear of the front springs should be OK (although under the bumper, if fitted, is perhaps better) particularly if the gearbox is in or is going in with the engine.

John