Factory Options/Accessories

[Drew90]

Hey Guys,

New to this forum, so hello! Just bought a 90 and am in love! Signed for it yesterday but am trying to work out what extras I should get from factory and what to get later. From what I have seen things like bull bars, side steps snorkels are VERY expensive from the dealerships and all those can be fitted later and with better quality parts etc. Things I have thought to get are;

- Defender pack - Electric rust proofing, Paint protection, Sound deadening underbody Protection & insulation all for $1970

- Tint - $550

- Front mud Flaps - $ 495 ! Expensive?

- Rear worklight - not sure on price

- Change Tyres from the Continental AT to the Goodyear MT? Or should I keep the AT for general Road driving and Buy bigger MT for when I go 4wd. my intentions are to do a fair bit of 4wd with lift and bigger tyres on the cards in the near future. How do the Goodyear MT's rate, I have heard mixed reviews.

Thank you all for your help, Cheers :)

[Ivan]

Not sure about the rest but $500 for mudflaps is ridiculous!! They are about 10GBP each (inculding brackets) from Paddocks. Not sure why you would want electric rustproofing on a Defender. All you need to do is Waxoyl (or whatever you use over here) the chassis inside and out from new and that will protect your chassis well enough. My 90 is a 1986 and all I have had to replce is the rear crossmember (was bad when I got the vehicle). The tint also sounds expensive I would reckon $300 would be enough.

HTH

Ivan

[juddy]

Hey Guys,

New to this forum, so hello! Just bought a 90 and am in love! Signed for it yesterday but am trying to work out what extras I should get from factory and what to get later. From what I have seen things like bull bars, side steps snorkels are VERY expensive from the dealerships and all those can be fitted later and with better quality parts etc. Things I have thought to get are;

- Defender pack - Electric rust proofing, Paint protection, Sound deadening underbody Protection & insulation all for $1970

- Tint - $550

- Front mud Flaps - $ 495 ! Expensive?

- Rear worklight - not sure on price

- Change Tyres from the Continental AT to the Goodyear MT? Or should I keep the AT for general Road driving and Buy bigger MT for when I go 4wd. my intentions are to do a fair bit of 4wd with lift and bigger tyres on the cards in the near future. How do the Goodyear MT's rate, I have heard mixed reviews.

Thank you all for your help, Cheers :)

1970 for rust proffing no way, i got mine done for $300 ( deal ) , should have been around 400/450 but thats still very good.

Mudflaps, are they really charging that much these days rob dogs they are, you can get them alot cheaper than that. thats nearly 250 Uk pounds, dealers in the uk do them fitted for 90 uk pounds.....

Rear work light?? if you can fit one your self.........

[KarlB]

If you don't already know the answer to you question about tyres Drew, then they will be fine. Revisit the question when the originals need replacement.

As for rust proofing, if it was costing $1970, then no way! However, the real value is probably in the sound deadening underbody protection and insulation. You need to find out what that involves/includes as this may be reasonable for the money. Any sound proofing of a Defender is worthwhile, but at what cost. You also need to ask if this is a genuine Land Rover product (and cover by your warranty) or just one offered by the dealer (which I suspect is the case, so be suspicious).

Re tint: the windows will already be tinted and I suspect you do not need extra, unless you want you vehicle to look like you are a gangster.

Front mudflaps? They are not cheap but the quality is high. I have seen some aftermarket mudflaps that were a waste of money. There are good ones that are cheaper and installation is not a big deal. When I bought my D90 last year I got them. I could not be bothered going through the hassel to save 0.5%, and don't regret it.

The rear work light is a bit like the tyres. Do you know that you really need one. You can always put one on later (and probably a better LED one at that). All of the wiring within the vehicle will already be in place, so that should not be an issue later.

Cheers
KarlB
:)

[Drew90]

If you don't already know the answer to you question about tyres Drew, then they will be fine. Revisit the question when the originals need replacement.

As for rust proofing, if it was costing $1970, then no way! However, the real value is probably in the sound deadening underbody protection and insulation. You need to find out what that involves/includes as this may be reasonable for the money. Any sound proofing of a Defender is worthwhile, but at what cost. You also need to ask if this is a genuine Land Rover product (and cover by your warranty) or just one offered by the dealer (which I suspect is the case, so be suspicious).

Re tint: the windows will already be tinted and I suspect you do not need extra, unless you want you vehicle to look like you are a gangster.

Front mudflaps? They are not cheap but the quality is high. I have seen some aftermarket mudflaps that were a waste of money. There are good ones that are cheaper and installation is not a big deal. When I bought my D90 last year I got them. I could not be bothered going through the hassel to save 0.5%, and don't regret it.

The rear work light is a bit like the tyres. Do you know that you really need one. You can always put one on later (and probably a better LED one at that). All of the wiring within the vehicle will already be in place, so that should not be an issue later.

Cheers
KarlB
:)

Thanks mate, good advice. I guess with all accessories, the question, "Do we really need it" comes into play a lot! Need and Want hmmmm....

The rear light I would def use for reversing at night and camping. Mud tyres Oh yes for sure. I guess I want to get a package done up so I can hit the trails straight away with no mucking around :)

[Drew90]

Not sure about the rest but $500 for mudflaps is ridiculous!! They are about 10GBP each (inculding brackets) from Paddocks.
HTH

Ivan

Paddocks? Is that a british based company?

Does anyone know any good Australia based Defender accessory companies or websites.

If you are buying from British based websites, what the complications with tax etc if any. I know importing part from America have had issues with my friends Jeep.

THank You

[Ivan]

Drew

Yes Paddocks (http://www.paddockspares.com/) is a British Company. You won't have any problem importing stuff as long as it costs less than $1000 AUD. There are lots of threads on here about importing stuff from the States as well as the UK

Ivan

[KarlB]

Thanks mate, good advice. I guess with all accessories, the question, "Do we really need it" comes into play a lot! Need and Want hmmmm....

The rear light I would def use for reversing at night and camping. Mud tyres Oh yes for sure. I guess I want to get a package done up so I can hit the trails straight away with no mucking around :)

You certainly don't need to change the tyres to "hit the trails straight away". I have done over 20,000 km on the original tyres in some reasonably remote areas. I am doing the Simpson and Cape York this year on the original tyres. I have the General Grabbers but I suspect that the Continentals would not perform that much differently. I certainly have not picked up from the Defender2.net Forum that there is a problem with them and most of the membership is Poms, and they know a thing or two about mud. Defenders are probably the most capable 4WDs off the showroom floor. They do not need mud tyres and a lifted suspension to be extremely capable. They may help in some situations (and they may hinder in others), but you certainly don't need them to enable you to "hit the trails".

Cheers
KarlB
:)

[pohm66]

Depending on what sort of driving you want to do.... water wise.... if you get LR to fit the snorkel and if, in the unfortunate circumstance, you suffer from water ingress it should be covered by LR warranty. Double check with them in writing.

Have heard a story or 2 about this shady area of concern due to poorly sealed snorkel fits.

[Loubrey]

LRA makes it very clear that it's a "Raised Air Intake" not a Snorkel. You would have very little chance of warranty if there is any indication that you went beyond the 500mm wading depth in the specification.

That said, they are not very consistent and there has been cases of them honoring warranty with clear watermarks inside the cab!

[PAT303]

Drew,I've ordered an X tech defender and haven't got any factory options as I have to pay Luxury car tax on them.I'm getting all my gear fitted at Central 4wd in Perth as they are the fitters that the dealer use's and the gear can be from any maker they use and all the work is covered by the dealers warranty.I'm getting long range tanks,dual batteries,driving lights etc and having it covered and being cheaper than factory fitted is a good thing. Pat

[PAT303]

LRA makes it very clear that it's a "Raised Air Intake" not a Snorkel. You would have very little chance of warranty if there is any indication that you went beyond the 500mm wading depth in the specification.

That said, they are not very consistent and there has been cases of them honoring warranty with clear watermarks inside the cab!

I haven't had any issue with LR as far as warranty goes and my Tdi was repaired well outside it's warranty period,saying that it was the dealers fault but LR for me has been very good.Toyota on the other hand were a pack of lying bastards that did everything they could to get out of anything. Pat

[KarlB]

Not meaning to divert this thread but if the bottom of your raised air intake is at the level of the waters surface (~90 cm deep) then you passenger and driver seat boxes are under the water. Your electrics are then cactus. That is deep water, and you MAY be able to get through it for a shortish distance but you MUST NOT STOP. At that depth you should use some sort of sheet over the front of your vehicle to make a bow wave and to keep the water out of the engine bay. In water crossing, the raised air intake is not a snorkel as some call them. However they are useful to keep splashing, trailing edge of the bow wave, etc. from getting in. The officially recommended max wading depth of 500 mm is just below the sills. At 600 mm your feet are starting to get wet and at 750 mm every thing in the back is getting wet. Any serious water crossing must be dynamic (ie you must keep moving) and this necessitates careful checking of the the traction surface for obvious hazards such as boulders and holes that would impede your progress. I have, like others, been in water where the bow wave has come over the bonnet, but there is no way I would want to stop, turn round or reverse, in water that is deep enough to create such a bow wave. Another important consideration in deep water is flotation where your vehicle starts to be buoyed by the water and you consequently start to lose traction. Exactly what you don't want in a water crossing, particularly if there is any significant movement or flow in the water.

Cheers
KarlB
:)

[PAT303]

Well said.I got my SWB S3 almost floating and it stopped forward progress and swamped,much later the same thing happened in my defender and after lots of $$$$'s and time changing oils and stripping regreasing everything I've decided in future when it comes to deep water to use a boat. . Pat

[Drew90]

Well said.I got my SWB S3 almost floating and it stopped forward progress and swamped,much later the same thing happened in my defender and after lots of $$$$'s and time changing oils and stripping regreasing everything I've decided in future when it comes to deep water to use a boat. . Pat


Hahahaha

[P38ace]

Hey Guys,

New to this forum, so hello! Just bought a 90 and am in love! Signed for it yesterday but am trying to work out what extras I should get from factory and what to get later. From what I have seen things like bull bars, side steps snorkels are VERY expensive from the dealerships and all those can be fitted later and with better quality parts etc. Things I have thought to get are;

- Defender pack - Electric rust proofing, Paint protection, Sound deadening underbody Protection & insulation all for $1970

- Tint - $550

- Front mud Flaps - $ 495 ! Expensive?

- Rear worklight - not sure on price

- Change Tyres from the Continental AT to the Goodyear MT? Or should I keep the AT for general Road driving and Buy bigger MT for when I go 4wd. my intentions are to do a fair bit of 4wd with lift and bigger tyres on the cards in the near future. How do the Goodyear MT's rate, I have heard mixed reviews.

Thank you all for your help, Cheers :)

First - You don't need to modify a standard Defender to take it off road, period. Probably not a good idea while under warranty anyway. You certainly don't need a lift (ever) and IMHO bigger tyres are a hindrance rather than a help. You'll be reminded of this when you get a puncture and need to lift the extremely heavy, wet and dirty spare off the back door, never mind the increased turning circle everyday. If it needed wider tyres LR would have fitted them 20 years ago. Oh, they already did. Went from 7.50 to 235's. :) I'm very happy with the original Continentals and would buy again when it comes time to renew.

Second - Don't buy any accessories from the Dealer. You pay an extremely high price including extra tax for the convenience and will do much better aftermarket if you really must add some baubles.

The only extras you really need are a towbar and front mudlaps. A stereo upgrade with bluetooth is also worthwhile. (To add some bass you WILL need to fit a subwoofer.) Also, throw some sound deadening matting in the back and you're done.

See here for my experience with mudlaps http://www.aulro.com/afvb/90-110-130-defender-county/113088-my2011-puma-towbar-electrics.html Try Karcraft in Sydney for pricing.

[Drew90]

First - You don't need to modify a standard Defender to take it off road, period. Probably not a good idea while under warranty anyway. You certainly don't need a lift (ever) and IMHO bigger tyres are a hindrance rather than a help. You'll be reminded of this when you get a puncture and need to lift the extremely heavy, wet and dirty spare off the back door, never mind the increased turning circle everyday. If it needed wider tyres LR would have fitted them 20 years ago. Oh, they already did. Went from 7.50 to 235's. :) I'm very happy with the original Continentals and would buy again when it comes time to renew.

Second - Don't buy any accessories from the Dealer. You pay an extremely high price including extra tax for the convenience and will do much better aftermarket if you really must add some baubles.

The only extras you really need are a towbar and front mudlaps. A stereo upgrade with bluetooth is also worthwhile. (To add some bass you WILL need to fit a subwoofer.) Also, throw some sound deadening matting in the back and you're done.

See here for my experience with mudlaps http://www.aulro.com/afvb/90-110-130-defender-county/113088-my2011-puma-towbar-electrics.html Try Karcraft in Sydney for pricing.

Great advice, thank you. After studying this site and speaking to a lot of very nice Defender drivers on this forum, I have come to the same conclusions.

Thanks everyone :) I'll post some Pics as soon as I get her. I'm trying to come up with a name for her? Any ideas?

[isuzurover]

If it needed wider tyres LR would have fitted them 20 years ago. Oh, they already did. Went from 7.50 to 235's. :)

Which is why some defender models were fitted with 265s (and possibly 285s?), and until 27 years ago (or even more recently) you could get 9.00x16s as an option ;)

[Psimpson7]

First - You don't need to modify a standard Defender to take it off road, period. Probably not a good idea while under warranty anyway. You certainly don't need a lift (ever) and IMHO bigger tyres are a hindrance rather than a help.
.

Lol :D, I find my big tyres an absoloute nightmare off road... personally I would see if you can get downgraded to the 205's ;)

[Drew90]

Lol :D, I find my big tyres an absoloute nightmare off road... personally I would see if you can get downgraded to the 205's ;)

Why is this? What size do you use? Any lift? OR am I not picking up on your sarcasm?

[Psimpson7]

:D Yep, you picked it up! Comments like the one I quoted annoy me.

What sort of 4wding are you looking at doing? Hard stuff? or touring etc?

Having said that, I would probably stick with the std tyres until they wear out (or as you say keep them for road use) and get an extra set of muddies when / if you feel you need them.

I now run 255/85's most of the time which imo seem the best all round size for a Defender. (I have a bigger set too but they are for playing only)

The mudflaps seem expensive!

[KarlB]

You naughty boy Drew. You have stolen my avatar!

Cheers
KarlB
:mad:

[waz]

For the worklight, I'd go with an LED over halogen. I have a halogen and it's heavy on power.

Waz

[Drew90]

:D Yep, you picked it up! Comments like the one I quoted annoy me.

What sort of 4wding are you looking at doing? Hard stuff? or touring etc?

Having said that, I would probably stick with the std tyres until they wear out (or as you say keep them for road use) and get an extra set of muddies when / if you feel you need them.

I now run 255/85's most of the time which imo seem the best all round size for a Defender. (I have a bigger set too but they are for playing only)

The mudflaps seem expensive!

Well I plan on building it up to something similar to yours. Not competition grade, but something that I can take through the most difficult of terrains. I would like to take to the Landcruiser park and take on some of the hard trails (get up Camp rd) but it will also be my daily driver, so I don't want to make it a death machine on the road either.

Before knowing the right Lift and Tyre combination - I had 3 inch lift and 33's in mind or something in that area. But this will come after I go through my first set of tyres or when the warranty runs out. In the mean time I am going to build up the car with Front bumper, rock rails, underbody protection, winch, sway bar disconnects, snorkel. All things that won't create too many warranty issues. And with all the protection on, I will still be able to do some hard wheeling with the stock tyre size and ride height combination.

I have ended up going with the MTR's so I can at least have some good grip offroad stock.

Your thoughts?

[Drew90]

You naughty boy Drew. You have stolen my avatar!

Cheers
KarlB
:mad:


Sorry mate, thought it was a stock forum avatar. Happy to change it. I guess the properties name of the pick gave it away! haha

Let me know if you want me to change it :angel:

[Drew90]

You naughty boy Drew. You have stolen my avatar!

Cheers
KarlB
:mad:


Have not! :whistling:

[isuzurover]

Pete - I agree! I am frequently bemused by the logic of the "I don't need modifications to go where I want to go so you won't need mods to go anywhere you want to go" brigade.



Before knowing the right Lift and Tyre combination - I had 3 inch lift and 33's in mind or something in that area. But this will come after I go through my first set of tyres or when the warranty runs out.

33s (255/85-16) fit without a lift and work well on a 90/110 IMHO. In the words of one member on here who looked at my car on the weekend - "they don't look much bigger than my 235s..."

33's, a true-trac front and rear and some rock sliders will probably get you through most tracks.

[Psimpson7]

Hey Drew,

I wouldn't lift over 2" in all honesty. That is plenty. I ran 255/85's (33's at std ride height for a fair while without too many dramas (very first pic in 90 link in my signature is at that level) - I now have a 2" lift and wouldnt go any higher.

A 2" lift will let you run upto 35" tyres fairly easily. Maybe more removing the arches.

You need to be careful with the front prop on the puma with a lift as they have rotated the transfer case back slightly meaning the angles are a little bit more limiting than on a TD5. Keep an eye on that if you do lift it.

I reckon it will go well enough at std height on the MTR's to drive camp road no dramas.

Sounds like you will have a nicely set up car - fancy going wheeling?!

Rgds
Pete

[Drew90]

Pete - I agree! I am frequently bemused by the logic of the "I don't need modifications to go where I want to go so you won't need mods to go anywhere you want to go" brigade.



33s (255/85-16) fit without a lift and work well on a 90/110 IMHO. In the words of one member on here who looked at my car on the weekend - "they don't look much bigger than my 235s..."

33's, a true-trac front and rear and some rock sliders will probably get you through most tracks.

Do you get any guard rub on full lock with no lift? 255/85-16 sounds like the magic number then. I would probably get the lift for more articulation though and better angles. But yes Lockers mmmmmmmmm......drooooool Someday

[Drew90]

Hey Drew,

I wouldn't lift over 2" in all honesty. That is plenty. I ran 255/85's (33's at std ride height for a fair while without too many dramas (very first pic in 90 link in my signature is at that level) - I now have a 2" lift and wouldnt go any higher.

A 2" lift will let you run upto 35" tyres fairly easily. Maybe more removing the arches.

You need to be careful with the front prop on the puma with a lift as they have rotated the transfer case back slightly meaning the angles are a little bit more limiting than on a TD5. Keep an eye on that if you do lift it.

I reckon it will go well enough at std height on the MTR's to drive camp road no dramas.

Sounds like you will have a nicely set up car - fancy going wheeling?!

Rgds
Pete

Great advice mate, really appreciate it. Wheeling? Ah.... YEAH! You'll just have to give me a few weeks to get some basic gear and a few little tweaks. Got a mate with a Wrangler (3" left on 33's, winch) who is keen too.

[KarlB]

I don't disagree with the comments from those such as Psimpson7 and isuzurover, about modifying your vehicle, changing tyre sizes etc. The issue to me, and I believe to new owners particularly, is whether you need to make such changes for your Defender to be capable and I think the answer is a very loud NO. The Defender is extremely capable without any such modifications. There is no doubt you can make you Defender more capable of doing a range of things, but they are modifications that are not necessary to "hit the trails", to use Drew's words. After 40 years of owning Land Rovers I am convinced that Defenders are almost universally far more capable than their drivers.

Cheers
KarlB
:)

[Drew90]

I don't disagree with the comments from those such as Psimpson7 and isuzurover, about modifying your vehicle, changing tyre sizes etc. The issue to me, and I believe to new owners particularly, is whether you need to make such changes for your Defender to be capable and I think the answer is a very loud NO. The Defender is extremely capable without any such modifications. There is no doubt you can make you Defender more capable of doing a range of things, but they are modifications that are not necessary to "hit the trails", to use Drew's words. After 40 years of owning Land Rovers I am convinced that Defenders are almost universally far more capable than their drivers.

Cheers
KarlB
:)

True true, and getting to know your vehicles limitations and learning how to drive it are important first steps :) And I will be doing this very shortly.

[isuzurover]

Do you get any guard rub on full lock with no lift?

Not if the wheels have the right offset. (standard puma wheels may be fine - I haven't tried them).

[Drew90]

I now run 255/85's most of the time which imo seem the best all round size for a Defender. (I have a bigger set too but they are for playing only)



So you run generally 255/85R16 on road. Say an AT of some sort. And then offroad or for "fun" it looks like your running 35'' Krawlers?

If I was looking for a "fun" tyre, I would still want to keep with the 33's but could I run something wider say 265/85?

With the right offset obviously, would I still get away with the 2" lift? I just don't want to be rubbing guards, I would prefer full lock if possible???

Thank You

[newhue]

Another thing to factor in with water crossing over 500mm in a PUMA. As you are moving through the water, the drivers seat box is filling with water from the factory drain holes. A short distance won't matter but a slow 10 or 15meter crossing may do.
I agree, stopping in water and its game over if the water is over 500mm. By fitting a Xbox and moving the electrics to under the cubby box, an 8 inch gain in electrics heights can be had, after a bit of siliconing to waterproof the box.

DREW, I had a mate swap his HT tyres for AT's at Fourby's. He arranged to drive straight from the dealer to them and had them swapped. A cash adjustment was also part of the deal.

[Psimpson7]

So you run generally 255/85R16 on road. Say an AT of some sort. And then offroad or for "fun" it looks like your running 35'' Krawlers?

If I was looking for a "fun" tyre, I would still want to keep with the 33's but could I run something wider say 265/85?

With the right offset obviously, would I still get away with the 2" lift? I just don't want to be rubbing guards, I would prefer full lock if possible???

Thank You

My 255/85's are BFG muddies, and yep play tyres are Krawlers. These are massive however and even with the arches off have a habit of folding up my panelwork :angel: metric width equivalent would be a 345!

If you use a std ish offset i think 285/75's wouldn't rub either (these are a 32.8" tall tyre) There isn't a 265/85

Cheers
Pete

[Drew90]

My 255/85's are BFG muddies, and yep play tyres are Krawlers. These are massive however and even with the arches off have a habit of folding up my panelwork :angel: metric width equivalent would be a 345!

If you use a std ish offset i think 285/75's wouldn't rub either (these are a 32.8" tall tyre) There isn't a 265/85

Cheers
Pete

What do you think is better for offroad? 285/75R16 32.8"?

[isuzurover]

What do you think is better for offroad? 285/75R16 32.8"?

I have 285/75 MTRs on one vehicle and 255/85 maxxis bighorns on another. IME the 285s are better offroad, but probably more to do with MTRs being a better engineered tyre (and more $$$$).

[Drew90]

I have 285/75 MTRs on one vehicle and 255/85 maxxis bighorns on another. IME the 285s are better offroad, but probably more to do with MTRs being a better engineered tyre (and more $$$$).

And the 285/75 seem to be a regular size as apposed to the 255/85. MT MTZ 285/75 look the goods :p

[isuzurover]

And the 285/75 seem to be a regular size as apposed to the 255/85. MT MTZ 285/75 look the goods :p

But 255s should have slightly less rolling resistance, and you need 7.5"+ rims (legally) for 285's.

[KarlB]

Change the tyre size or rim offset and you will risk voiding your vehicles drive-train warranty. If your vehicle is under lease or hire purchase you also need to be mindful that there may be implications from the 'bank' sharing the ownership. You will also need to advise your insurance company. None of these things may be a big issue, but they might, and you need to be very careful.

Cheers
KarlB
:)

[isuzurover]

Change the tyre size or rim offset and you will risk voiding your vehicles drive-train warranty.

As has been discussed in other threads, a manufacturer cannot automatically "void" a warranty because a modification has been made. They would have to prove that the modification caused the failure - (or you would have to prove it did not) however it could get messy and involve lawyers.

I recall someone on here had a CV joint fail on a puma with larger tyres??? And LR paid up in the end???

[Drew90]

As has been discussed in other threads, a manufacturer cannot automatically "void" a warranty because a modification has been made. They would have to prove that the modification caused the failure - (or you would have to prove it did not) however it could get messy and involve lawyers.

I recall someone on here had a CV joint fail on a puma with larger tyres??? And LR paid up in the end???

Any idea what they were running?

- Stock they are 31.7" -235/85, "legally" you can go to 32.2", 285/75 are 32.8".

I'm thinkin of going with the 2" lift (legal again in queensland) and running the stock wheels and Tyres Conti AT around town etc and for play I will go the 285/75.

[isuzurover]

Any idea what they were running?

- Stock they are 31.7" -235/85, "legally" you can go to 32.2", 285/75 are 32.8".

I'm thinkin of going with the 2" lift (legal again in queensland) and running the stock wheels and Tyres Conti AT around town etc and for play I will go the 285/75.

Can't remember, but there is a thread on here somewhere if you search.

I suspect you will have more warranty hassles with a lift than with larger tyres. If you have a 2nd set of tyres at least you can change back when you take it to the dealer.

I have taken landies through roadworthies in QLD and WA with 33's and never had an issue. I don't know anyone who has ever had any problems with the authorities running 33's. I suspect the largest 235-85 or 7.50 and the smallest 255/85 or 285/75 are so close in diameter as to be legal.

[Drew90]

If you have a 2nd set of tyres at least you can change back when you take it to the dealer.


:whistling:

I was thinking it, but wasn't saying it :)

[KarlB]

Just because a change you may make is legal, does not make it OK with the manufacturer. If you put lockers on, you will almost certainly find LRA will not honour the warranty on your drive train. If you make changes such as putting on very large diameter tyres, or put on spacers, you are technically making your vehicle unroadworthy, voiding your insurance (I suspect even if you informed them of the changes) and risk very high liability in the event of an accident, particularly if it causes serious injury or death. You could loose your house and/or end up in gaol. People get away with these things every day. But is it worth the risk?

But back to warranty: as isuzurover says, a manufacturer cannot automatically "void" a warranty because a modification has been made. However, it would be a brave engineer who would go into bat for you against LRA's engineers. If you cannot afford to pay for repairs out of your own pocket during the first 3 years of ownership, then it is a very big risk in my mind, to make significant(ie possibly warranty impacting) changes to your vehicle. After the warranty runs out, and issues, if there are any, will most likely be sorted, then go for it.

Cheers
KarlB
:)

[Psimpson7]

Does it get tiring typing basically the same post in any thread about tyres, lockers, or lifts Karl? Do you have it saved somewhere for speedier copy and pasting? Maybe you should put it in your signature ;):D

[Allan]

So you run generally 255/85R16 on road. Say an AT of some sort. And then offroad or for "fun" it looks like your running 35'' Krawlers?

If I was looking for a "fun" tyre, I would still want to keep with the 33's but could I run something wider say 265/85?

With the right offset obviously, would I still get away with the 2" lift? I just don't want to be rubbing guards, I would prefer full lock if possible???

Thank You

If I were you, after all the dramas I and other Puma owners have had after 2 inch lifts would not go there. I suggest you talk to Povman regarding lifting Pumas. It almost cost him thousands and his round Australia trip. Good luck with your new toy.

Allan

[KarlB]

Does it get tiring typing basically the same post in any thread about tyres, lockers, or lifts Karl? Do you have it saved somewhere for speedier copy and pasting? Maybe you should put it in your signature ;):D
Probably no more tiring than your typing of repeated posts about altering tyre sizes. But I don’t object to that. It is useful information for new forum members and for new Defender owners in particular. Why do you object to me trying to impart what I consider important information to new owners?

Cheers
KarlB
:)

[one_iota]

Some sensible advice gathered from experience has been given above with regard to issues that may impact on warranty and the vehicle.

It is not against the law to void warranty. If anyone wants to modify their vehicle within the law then that is their prerogative.

It sounds as though Drew is itching to take his Defender to technical places that the warranty will probably not allow...if waiting for 3 years to do it is too long then he should ignore the warranty and do it. In which case issues such as a 2" lift need to be approached thoughtfully helped with the experience of those here.

[isuzurover]

Probably no more tiring than your typing of repeated posts about altering tyre sizes.

For fun and procrastination I did a quick search.

Since March 2010 you have 41 posts with the word "Warranty" in. So an average of 45 posts /yr.

PSimpson7 has 86 posts with the word "Tyre(s)" in them since March 2008 - so an average of 29 times/yr.

I think you win.

[Psimpson7]

KarlB's latest post

lol touche! :):D

I don't object at all. You do make good points, and people should be aware of them.

The thing that does bug me slightly is comments like this one:


If you put lockers on, you will almost certainly find LRA will not honour the warranty on your drive train

Is that based on any sort of first or even second hand experience or just speculation? My car had lockers and 33's from 11k miles and the dealer couldn't have cared less, and even with those fitted it didnt explode or break down. LR would have to prove that it caused the fault which would be very hard.

If a locker for example had failed, it would be covered by their warranty anyway, at least for 12 months.

Pretty sure Drew is fully aware of the options and risks now.

I do agree regarding the 'take care when lifting a puma' comments however and said as much in one of my earlier posts... I would be very wary.

Cheers
Pete

[one_iota]

Warranty is offered by LRA and interpreted by the dealer a bit like the laws being made by parliament and enforced by the police. Any doubt and it goes to court.

The recent experience here is that anything that can be used as an out by the dealer is used. The court of appeal is LR.

As an example I was told by the dealer that the rubbing of the lower turbo hose on the steering column joint was caused by an act of the snorkel installer...patent crap and nonsense. However it illustrates the current warranty climate.

[Allan]

lol touche! :):D

I don't object at all. You do make good points, and people should be aware of them.

The thing that does bug me slightly is comments like this one:



Is that based on any sort of first or even second hand experience or just speculation? My car had lockers and 33's from 11k miles and the dealer couldn't have cared less, and even with those fitted it didnt explode or break down. LR would have to prove that it caused the fault which would be very hard.

If a locker for example had failed, it would be covered by their warranty anyway, at least for 12 months.

Pretty sure Drew is fully aware of the options and risks now.

I do agree regarding the 'take care when lifting a puma' comments however and said as much in one of my earlier posts... I would be very wary.

Cheers
Pete
I've got lockers, after market shocks, relocation cones, aftermarket hd rear springs, the list goes on. At no time thus far have I had warranty issues that the dealer would not fix.

Allan

[KarlB]

For fun and procrastination I did a quick search.

Since March 2010 you have 41 posts with the word "Warranty" in. So an average of 45 posts /yr.

PSimpson7 has 86 posts with the word "Tyre(s)" in them since March 2008 - so an average of 29 times/yr.

I think you win.

While your counting, how many of my posts were about "extended warranty"?

But you could be right. That would explain while I am so tired.

Cheers
KarlB
:p

[dullbird]

for the record I think it really depends on dealer....and how many dramas you have already had with the car.

I have a tru trac for the defender but it has currently been put in the disco until the defender is out of warranty

WHY?

because we had 8 diffs fail and we asked if we could pay to have a trutrac put in its place..the answer was NO land rover will void warranty....they said that back in the day you could get away with stuff like that but not any more.

Thats just my experience of course but I have no reason to doubt the man that told me, and the experiences I have I wouldn't go against advice like that either only because I cant afford to fix stuff myself should they say No:)

[KarlB]

Recent posts raise several important points. Any warranty claim will first be assessed by the dealer and some of them are very reasonable and have sensible senior mechanics who judge what modifications that have been made in a realistic way. Others will be not so and you could have a battle on your hand with even minor changes. A business sensible dealer will also be keen to not loose your business so may turn a blind eye to things that would concern another. I think it is a good idea to cultivate a good relationship with your local dealer.

As for lockers: when I bought my current D90 I had a talk to the dealer about modifications and additions to the vehicle. He volunteered examples: that putting lockers on; and chipping the engine, would likely be a problem. I have no knowledge of anyone actually having a warranty claim rejected because of having lockers. The dealer voiced the view that it was probably better to get someone like ARB or an auto-electrician to put in a second battery (again for example) rather than doing it your self as it would be more difficult for LRA to argue that the installation was faulty if there was a major electrical failure.

I find it all a bit concerning that there is no consistency or certainty. And that is why I urge people to tread very carefully. But I will give warranty a break for a while. I promise!

Cheers
KarlB
:)

[lochie]

G'day KARL B.I agree with your comments ,it took me awhile to come to the conclusion that ,just maybe L.R.have it right.My advice is when you first buy the dream join a club and participate in the trips.The driver will normally fail before the vehicle does ,it is invaluable to gain info.from experienced drivers.Last year a brand new Nissan Patrol ,up the Cape,chewed out his rear diff.courtesy of a newly fitted diff-lock.It was driveable only on the front diff.not a happy chap.My advice ,for what its worth,is along the lines of KARL B get to know your vehicle and then decide what is required to improve its performance.Also there no standards required, for after market purchases,like A.D.Rs so choose carefully.I've no doubt you will have a lot of fun with the 90. lochie

[NOZ]

[QUOTE=KarlB;1424234]Recent posts raise several import points. Any warranty claim will first be assessed by the dealer and some of them are very reasonable and have sensible senior mechanics who judge what modifications that have been made in a realistic way. Others will be not so and you could have a battle on your hand with even minor changes. A business sensible dealer will also be keen to not loose your business so may turn a blind eye to things that would concern another. I think it is a good idea to cultivate a good relationship with your local dealer.

As for lockers: when I bought my current D90 I had a talk to the dealer about modifications and additions to the vehicle. He volunteered examples: that putting lockers on; and chipping the engine, would likely be a problem. I have no knowledge of anyone actually having a warranty claim rejected because of having lockers. The dealer voiced the view that it was probably better to get someone like ARB or an auto-electrician to put in a second battery (again for example) rather than doing it your self as it would be more difficult for LRA to argue that the installation was faulty if there was a major electrical failure.

I find it all a bit concerning that there is no consistency or certainty. And that is why I urge people to tread very carefully. But I will give warranty a break for a while. I promise!

Cheers
KarlB
:)[/QUOTE

My new Defender arrives later this month and after reading this thread today I decided to ring Bruce Lynton and speak to the service manager.

I asked him re tyres,suspension,lockers and ecu upgrade,now all he had concerns about was the ecu, he recommened against that while it was under warrenty, he continued to say " look common sense applies 2" lift or 255/285 tyres, lockers wont be an issue". Now I am sure if something did break in relation to tyres or lockers you would want the dealer on your side as you probably will run a risk of rejection.

I know I will be taking the risk with tyres, lockers and suspension. :twisted:

As Pete has said in the past 86 posts :wasntme: I agree with 255/85/16 being the best all round trye for the Defender and will be putting Maxis Bighorns on my Defender as the BFG KM2's are not available till April.

[Drew90]

My new Defender arrives later this month and after reading this thread today I decided to ring Bruce Lynton and speak to the service manager.


:thumbsup:

[Geezer]

Hi I'm new to this forum and am too looking to add a few accessories to my new D90, unfortunately even though I've signed a contract for a new D90 over a week ago my dealer still doesn't seem to be able to find a new D90 that is silver with LR dual tone wheels, in fact my dealer even went on to say today they can't get any colour D90, how hard can it be, it seems a bit odd to me that LRA are having a sale with no vehicles to sell. Any body have similar problems.

And just on the topic of accessories, does anybody know where you can get the LED rear lights that are listed in the current Defender catalogue under accessories. The dealer cant seem to locate these either!!! I'm very frustrated!!!

Thanks for any feedback

Cheers
Graham

[KarlB]

The rear LEDs were a factory option that were fitted as standard to the Fire and Ice models (never sold in Au) and they will be standard on the Defender X-Tech Limited Editions when they arrive later this year:

http://www.landrover.com/imagery/market/gb/en/defender-le/gb_defender_limited_edition_image_2-434x217

I think they were also on the SVXs. There are a few owners of SVXs on the forum that would be able to say. I suspect your dealer is just not bothering to push the issue. Has the dealer sent an email off to LRA or has he just seen that they are not on the standard options list. Push a bit harder, especially if it looks like you will have to wait. You can certainly get after market ones that look almost identical (see http://www.mobilecentre.co.uk/upgrades-for-land-rover-vehicles-c-36.html).

As for availability of a vehicle, I was pretty sure I saw a silver or grey 90 at Lennock Motors in Canberra when I dropped mine in for a service last week. It could have been a 110 but I don't think so. It was just out of the corner of my eye, so to speak. Give them a call, ask for Justin Cornock.

Cheers
KarlB
:)

[isuzurover]

it seems a bit odd to me that LRA are having a sale with no vehicles to sell.

Maybe the sale has worked and they are all sold?!?!? ;)

There is a 10MY 90 on carsales with 12k km.

I am sure when I looked yesterday there were a lot more...?

[NOZ]

Hi I'm new to this forum and am too looking to add a few accessories to my new D90, unfortunately even though I've signed a contract for a new D90 over a week ago my dealer still doesn't seem to be able to find a new D90 that is silver with LR dual tone wheels, in fact my dealer even went on to say today they can't get any colour D90, how hard can it be, it seems a bit odd to me that LRA are having a sale with no vehicles to sell. Any body have similar problems.

And just on the topic of accessories, does anybody know where you can get the LED rear lights that are listed in the current Defender catalogue under accessories. The dealer cant seem to locate these either!!! I'm very frustrated!!!

Thanks for any feedback

Cheers
Graham


If you are dealing with the guys at Austral Landrover give up they cant be bothered helping or going the extra mile. Well the didnt for me.

As I have said before you need to get to a dealer that is prepeared to look, maybe there is not Defenders left but it would be helpful if they looked past there front door.

[Geezer]

Thanks for the responses, and yes they may have all sold, but when you sign a contract after many discussions, you would think they would have that sorted....especially when a boat load is arriving next week?
My suspisions are that dealers are allocating bogus orders so they have vehicals to sell?

Cheers
Graham

[NOZ]

You could be right, when I first made an enquiry to Austral L/R they said they had 1 Defender in stock and it was $58k. I mentioned the sale price of $49990 and was told I was wrong the special was only for the D90.

After I insisted that I was correct he told me he would check and call me back.


10mins later he rings and says you are right they are $49k, so I said great I am on my way should be there in 30mins, " oh we dont have any Defenders available he says", but you just told me you had one I said. Oh sorry we just sold it he tells me.

Again this is why I say talk to a dealer that wants to help not just get his commision

[Drew90]

Just Picked her! YEEEEEEEEEEEEOWWW! What a beast :vampire:

SHe is so tough. I'm in love. On her maiden voyage I saw a 300tdi and another Puma. Gotta a wave, thank youp.

One thing I noticed that I didn't in the test drive. With the higher center of gravity and higher clearance, there is a fair bit of movement on the road. Little bit boucy being a short wheel base, nothing bad, it just took a bit to get used to. I wonder what a different set of tyres would do. What's everyone opinion of the Conti's on the road? They seem to have good aggressive tread for an AT for offroad. Another thing is that there is no steering wheel tilt! DANG.

All in all, I have a grin ear to ear. I think i'll sleep in her tonight :wub:

[one_iota]

Congrat's.

Your enthusiasm says it all. :D

Try and get a good night's rest...don't sleep in the Defender.;)

[Drew90]

Congrat's.

Your enthusiasm says it all. :D

Try and get a good night's rest...don't sleep in the Defender.;)

hahaha, I'll be right....I think :unsure:

[Drew90]

Your enthusiasm says it all. :D



You have to read the post as fast as possible to get the full effect of the enthusiasm :)

[Allan]

Congrats, now the fun begins. You will never finish playing with it thats for sure. They keep me poor. But that's what money's for.

Allan

[Drew90]

Congrats, now the fun begins. You will never finish playing with it thats for sure. They keep me poor. But that's what money's for.

Allan

I have cyling that keeps me very poor, now I have this! Dam. Oh well, like you said, that's what it's for.:)

[juddy]

Hi I'm new to this forum and am too looking to add a few accessories to my new D90, unfortunately even though I've signed a contract for a new D90 over a week ago my dealer still doesn't seem to be able to find a new D90 that is silver with LR dual tone wheels, in fact my dealer even went on to say today they can't get any colour D90, how hard can it be, it seems a bit odd to me that LRA are having a sale with no vehicles to sell. Any body have similar problems.

And just on the topic of accessories, does anybody know where you can get the LED rear lights that are listed in the current Defender catalogue under accessories. The dealer cant seem to locate these either!!! I'm very frustrated!!!

Thanks for any feedback

Cheers
Graham

The LR 90 that is offered at the moment at the 39k price is only for current stock vehicles that are here in Australia, it is not for new builds, that's why you cant have your pick of factory options. I believe there was around 20 such 90's in stock.

If its in the LR catalogue and you really want the LR ones, quote the part number to parts and they should get you them in....

[KarlB]

Just Picked her! YEEEEEEEEEEEEOWWW! What a beast :vampire:

SHe is so tough. I'm in love. On her maiden voyage I saw a 300tdi and another Puma. Gotta a wave, thank youp.

One thing I noticed that I didn't in the test drive. With the higher center of gravity and higher clearance, there is a fair bit of movement on the road. Little bit boucy being a short wheel base, nothing bad, it just took a bit to get used to. I wonder what a different set of tyres would do. What's everyone opinion of the Conti's on the road? They seem to have good aggressive tread for an AT for offroad. Another thing is that there is no steering wheel tilt! DANG.

All in all, I have a grin ear to ear. I think i'll sleep in her tonight :wub:

Check your tyre pressures. They make a huge differnce to the "bouncy" ride. The dealer hadn't cheked them on my D90 and they were over 2.8 bar (40 psi). Two bar works well (29 psi).

Cheers
KarlB

[Geezer]

The LR 90 that is offered at the moment at the 39k price is only for current stock vehicles that are here in Australia, it is not for new builds, that's why you cant have your pick of factory options. I believe there was around 20 such 90's in stock.

If its in the LR catalogue and you really want the LR ones, quote the part number to parts and they should get you them in....

Looking into this further and many phone calls to the dealer, the offer extends to the current stock here in Australia, and the boat that gets in next week, plus the three that come in next month - all of which have practicably been sold. But ... as the gods of chance are on my side today my dealer has found a silver one with the dual tone wheels from a dealer in Sydney chasing a 110, a quick swap later and my deal is sorted :D so I should get my D90 by the end of the month..... so I'm a very happy camper right now!!!!! I will sort out the LED rear lights in the near future although there is no part number to quote from in the catalogue to order against, but will probably get a the after market ones.

[P38ace]

With the higher center of gravity and higher clearance, there is a fair bit of movement on the road. Little bit boucy being a short wheel base, nothing bad, it just took a bit to get used to. I wonder what a different set of tyres would do. What's everyone opinion of the Conti's on the road? They seem to have good aggressive tread for an AT for offroad.

I bought my first brand new LR, a NINETY Diesel Turbo Hardtop, back in 1989 so I know what you're feeling today. Happy memories. :)

SWB's ride is choppy and bouncy in comparison to 110's so you have to live with that aspect. Bear in mind increasing the tyre size or lifting it will make it worse.

The Conti's have not been around long and I've not read any feedback anywhere yet. However as I said in my earlier post I'm more than happy with them so far (7500k). Aggressive tread but very quiet on the road and great fuel economy. Only comment is that they picked up and flung a lot of gravel when new but after about 3000 kms that issue disappeared.

Have fun. :cool:

[Allan]

Looking into this further and many phone calls to the dealer, the offer extends to the current stock here in Australia, and the boat that gets in next week, plus the three that come in next month - all of which have practicably been sold. But ... as the gods of chance are on my side today my dealer has found a silver one with the dual tone wheels from a dealer in Sydney chasing a 110, a quick swap later and my deal is sorted :D so I should get my D90 by the end of the month..... so I'm a very happy camper right now!!!!! I will sort out the LED rear lights in the near future although there is no part number to quote from in the catalogue to order against, but will probably get a the after market ones.


The SVX has them here so should be easy to get after you get your 90.

Allan

[Drew90]

I bought my first brand new LR, a NINETY Diesel Turbo Hardtop, back in 1989 so I know what you're feeling today. Happy memories. :)

SWB's ride is choppy and bouncy in comparison to 110's so you have to live with that aspect. Bear in mind increasing the tyre size or lifting it will make it worse.

The Conti's have not been around long and I've not read any feedback anywhere yet. However as I said in my earlier post I'm more than happy with them so far (7500k). Aggressive tread but very quiet on the road and great fuel economy. Only comment is that they picked up and flung a lot of gravel when new but after about 3000 kms that issue disappeared.

Have fun. :cool:

Yeah that happened today! They seem to make a great noise on the underside of the shell, scared to the crap put of me!

[Drew90]

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/

My new baby girl...Charlotte

[NOZ]

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/

My new baby girl...Charlotte

Very very nice

[NOZ]

Looking into this further and many phone calls to the dealer, the offer extends to the current stock here in Australia, and the boat that gets in next week, plus the three that come in next month - all of which have practicably been sold. But ... as the gods of chance are on my side today my dealer has found a silver one with the dual tone wheels from a dealer in Sydney chasing a 110, a quick swap later and my deal is sorted :D so I should get my D90 by the end of the month..... so I'm a very happy camper right now!!!!! I will sort out the LED rear lights in the near future although there is no part number to quote from in the catalogue to order against, but will probably get a the after market ones.

congrates on the find, amazing what dealers can do if they try ;)

[Drew90]

Second day I've had her and offroad she went. CA PA BLE. High range no diff lock and ate it up. I couldn't believe it. Who would need air lockers?

[isuzurover]

Second day I've had her and offroad she went. CA PA BLE. High range no diff lock and ate it up. I couldn't believe it. Who would need air lockers?

It is best practice to engage the CDL (Centre Diff Lock) whenever you go offroad. Engaging the CDL on a landy is like engaging 4x4 in a part-time 4x4 vehicle.

If you do lots of offroading without the CDL engaged you will likely wear out the centre diff prematurely and/or break it.

Without the CDL engaged you only have a 1 wheel drive offroad in a non-etc landie. The ETC can compensate somewhat, but will be working much harder than usual.


Btw - glad you are happy.
You mentioned cycling - what bikes do you have?

[juddy]

Second day I've had her and offroad she went. CA PA BLE. High range no diff lock and ate it up. I couldn't believe it. Who would need air lockers?

100% last years outback trip was the same never needed to use the diff lock....
never came out of high too...

[Drew90]

It is best practice to engage the CDL (Centre Diff Lock) whenever you go offroad. Engaging the CDL on a landy is like engaging 4x4 in a part-time 4x4 vehicle.

If you do lots of offroading without the CDL engaged you will likely wear out the centre diff prematurely and/or break it.

Without the CDL engaged you only have a 1 wheel drive offroad in a non-etc landie. The ETC can compensate somewhat, but will be working much harder than usual.


Btw - glad you are happy.
You mentioned cycling - what bikes do you have?

I did have a little go with the CDL. Me like!

Felt AR3 - Road bike
Argon 18 E-114 - TT bike
On the market for a Dually MTB as well to take with the landy :D

[Drew90]

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/

Her first lantana scratches :p

[Gripper2111]

Hi Drew90,

Looks good, I have a Riminni Red 90 on the boat right now should be here first week of March - can't wait!

[Allan]

My wife's TD5 90 is Boticelli red, I think the spellings right. Very similar couler. We find it fairly easy to keep clean, not like my black thing.

Allan

[Drew90]

My wife's TD5 90 is Boticelli red, I think the spellings right. Very similar couler. We find it fairly easy to keep clean, not like my black thing.

Allan

Dude, that looks Awesome! What are the upgrade specs on it?

I am planning on a very similar front end setup :)

[Allan]

Dude, that looks Awesome! What are the upgrade specs on it?

I am planning on a very similar front end setup :)

2 inch lift, +2inch Terra Firma big bore shocks, relocation cones front and rear, spring retainers (front) sway bars gone front and rear, ARB air compressor. The front bar is from RovaCraft, 9000lb winch, Duel batterys, power outlets in rear for fridge ect. RovaCraft under vehicle protection, sports seats, bought from Repco, can't remember the make, 8x16 performance alloys, Toyo muds, switchable T.C. Rear air locker is coming in July, drive shaft upgrade then also. Engine egr valve gone, centre muffler gone, turbo boost up to 1.3 bar. ECU flash when I can con the wife. Up dated sound system. All the bling is womans work. As I said your ninety will make you a poor man. This one is to keep her happy as I play with 110. She's loved 90's for ever. We had an old 88 series soft top when we first got married so, what can you do?

Allan

[Drew90]

2 inch lift, +2inch Terra Firma big bore shocks, relocation cones front and rear, spring retainers (front) sway bars gone front and rear, ARB air compressor. The front bar is from RovaCraft, 9000lb winch, Duel batterys, power outlets in rear for fridge ect. RovaCraft under vehicle protection, sports seats, bought from Repco, can't remember the make, 8x16 performance alloys, Toyo muds, switchable T.C. Rear air locker is coming in July, drive shaft upgrade then also. Engine egr valve gone, centre muffler gone, turbo boost up to 1.3 bar. ECU flash when I can con the wife. Up dated sound system. All the bling is womans work. As I said your ninety will make you a poor man. This one is to keep her happy as I play with 110. She's loved 90's for ever. We had an old 88 series soft top when we first got married so, what can you do?

Allan

:woot::woot::woot::woot::woot:

What size tyres you running?

[Allan]

Toyo 265/75 they are just legal on the wheel offset.

Allan

[PAT303]

Allan,I've been led to believe that removing the EGR brings up a fault code,how did you get pass that?.Did removing the muffler make any difference?.When mine turns up I was getting Tombie to chip it and see about the EGR being closed electricly.I was going to get a True Trac fitted in the rear and having the centre rebuilt and maybe pinned also as I don't want to go through diffs like everyone else. Pat

[Allan]

Allan,I've been led to believe that removing the EGR brings up a fault code,how did you get pass that?.Did removing the muffler make any difference?.When mine turns up I was getting Tombie to chip it and see about the EGR being closed electricly.I was going to get a True Trac fitted in the rear and having the centre rebuilt and maybe pinned also as I don't want to go through diffs like everyone else. Pat

The TD5 has no problems with the egr removed, the Puma does I'm told. I think someone in the UK does a tune on them that overcomes the codes issue on the Puma so I assume Tomie is doing the same. The little 5's ecu is far nicer to live with. I think the exhaust, egr and slight boost increase have made a noticeable change to the TD5 and the exhaust will be the first engine mod I do when the Puma is out of warranty I'm told if you de cat either the Puma or the TD5 they go a lot better but I've left the cat alone as the thought of a large fine worries me. I don't know about a True Trac in the rear as to how this would affect your warranty.

Allan

[Drew90]

My new Defender arrives later this month and after reading this thread today I decided to ring Bruce Lynton and speak to the service manager.

I asked him re tyres,suspension,lockers and ecu upgrade,now all he had concerns about was the ecu, he recommened against that while it was under warrenty, he continued to say " look common sense applies 2" lift or 255/285 tyres, lockers wont be an issue". Now I am sure if something did break in relation to tyres or lockers you would want the dealer on your side as you probably will run a risk of rejection.

I know I will be taking the risk with tyres, lockers and suspension. :twisted:

As Pete has said in the past 86 posts :wasntme: I agree with 255/85/16 being the best all round trye for the Defender and will be putting Maxis Bighorns on my Defender as the BFG KM2's are not available till April.

I just got off the phone to my dealer and they said any modifications ie. lift would need to be change back to std before LR could look at the car if there was a problem. And with any modifications, you would loose your warranty on the drivetrain. The guy I was talking to was a bit of a dick though. I asked him about tyres and the same thing.

Who did you speak too on this matter? I think I was speaking to the wrong people. Must of been sales people. Originally I rang the service dep at Mt Gravatt and they told me to ring LR customer care. They had no idea and then transferred me to the FValley dealer and then I got transferred again. Sigh...

[NOZ]

I just got off the phone to my dealer and they said any modifications ie. lift would need to be change back to std before LR could look at the car if there was a problem. And with any modifications, you would loose your warranty on the drivetrain. The guy I was talking to was a bit of a dick though. I asked him about tyres and the same thing.

Who did you speak too on this matter? I think I was speaking to the wrong people. Must of been sales people. Originally I rang the service dep at Mt Gravatt and they told me to ring LR customer care. They had no idea and then transferred me to the FValley dealer and then I got transferred again. Sigh...


I spoke to the service manager at Bruce Lynton Land Rover, I can not speak highly enough about Lyntons but the same cannot be said for Either of the Brisbane dealers. I found both Brisbane Rover dealers could only be bother to sell $100k + Range Rovers and were not interested in anything else. Customer service from both Brisbane dealers is lacking from sales dept to the service guys.

I live in Bracken Ridge on the northside of Brisbane and if I have any issue with my Defender I will drive back to the Gold Coast and see Bruce Lyntons.

[Drew90]

I spoke to the service manager at Bruce Lynton Land Rover, I can not speak highly enough about Lyntons but the same cannot be said for Either of the Brisbane dealers. I found both Brisbane Rover dealers could only be bother to sell $100k + Range Rovers and were not interested in anything else. Customer service from both Brisbane dealers is lacking from sales dept to the service guys.

I live in Bracken Ridge on the northside of Brisbane and if I have any issue with my Defender I will drive back to the Gold Coast and see Bruce Lyntons.

I'm at Redland Bay, so it's just the same amount of time to the city as it is to the gold coast. Sounds like a good idea. Thank You

I will give them a call next week. Who do you recommend I talk to?

Thank You

[NOZ]

Simon is the sales man I have been dealing with, I do forget the service managers name, think its was Graham.

But ask for Simon and he will connect you to the right person. Perhaps mention that you are hooked up with the Gold Coast L/R club and have heard good things re your service team.

Good luck let me know how you go ? I hope to down there next week myself picking up our new 110.

[Drew90]

Simon is the sales man I have been dealing with, I do forget the service managers name, think its was Graham.

But ask for Simon and he will connect you to the right person. Perhaps mention that you are hooked up with the Gold Coast L/R club and have heard good things re your service team.

Good luck let me know how you go ? I hope to down there next week myself picking up our new 110.

Yeah will do. Looking at joining the club as well. Cheap as for what you get :)

Thanks

[NOZ]

Yeah will do. Looking at joining the club as well. Cheap as for what you get :)

Thanks

Yes real proactive club, lots of things on all the time, great monthly meetings. I cannot speak highly enough about the GCLRC.

[Drew90]

So I spoke to Nathan in the service department and He basically said with a 2" or 50mm lift, LR would not warrant the driveline at all. He mentioned that you might not have any problems with putting a lift on it, but if you did, being modified, they can't warrant driveline issues. However wider or slightly bigger tyres such as 255/85 would be fine.

The thing is, if you don't lift the vehicle and you take it off road and say you damage the diff on a rock, LR will not warrant the diff because you took it offroad and damaged the vehicle. Is this right? But if you lift the vehicle, you avoid the rock and don't damage the vehicle.

What problems have people had with the 90's when they have done a 2" lift? As previously mentioned you need to be careful with the Front prop as they have rotated the transfer case slightly and the angles are a bit limiting. What other problems do people foresee?

Cheers

[isuzurover]

The thing is, if you don't lift the vehicle and you take it off road and say you damage the diff on a rock, LR will not warrant the diff because you took it offroad and damaged the vehicle. Is this right? But if you lift the vehicle, you avoid the rock and don't damage the vehicle.

A suspension lift won't change the distance between the diffs and the ground (rocks). Only tyres or portals will do that.

You can drag the axles and diff over rocks all day every day without damaging the internals. However you may wish to get some diff guards to protect the thin diff pan from damage).

[KarlB]

So I spoke to Nathan in the service department and He basically said with a 2" or 50mm lift, LR would not warrant the driveline at all. He mentioned that you might not have any problems with putting a lift on it, but if you did, being modified, they can't warrant driveline issues. However wider or slightly bigger tyres such as 255/85 would be fine.

The thing is, if you don't lift the vehicle and you take it off road and say you damage the diff on a rock, LR will not warrant the diff because you took it offroad and damaged the vehicle. Is this right? But if you lift the vehicle, you avoid the rock and don't damage the vehicle.

What problems have people had with the 90's when they have done a 2" lift? As previously mentioned you need to be careful with the Front prop as they have rotated the transfer case slightly and the angles are a bit limiting. What other problems do people foresee?

Cheers

There are two critical things to consider when driving a 4wd. First is the vehicles limitations and second, and by far the most important, is your own limitations. If you smash your diff or anything else on the vehicle it is essentially because you have pushed the vehicle beyond the limits for which it was designed (eg you tried to drive it over a one metre vertical drop) or you haven't driven it properly (eg you tried to straddle the big rock rather then putting your wheel on it). Such damage may be deemed an accident by your insurance company and you may be covered for repair.

I may be wrong but it is my understanding that a lift does two things. It increases the clearance for the body of the vehicle and those other parts that hang off the body (fuel tank, gearbox, etc). But most importantly, a lift also allows for greater articulation or wheel travel. The lift sets new limits for the vehicle and this is important for some uses. Question is, have you found the vehicles ability wanting? Have you been in a situation where articulation was limiting your progress?

Cheers
KarlB
:)

[Allan]

So I spoke to Nathan in the service department and He basically said with a 2" or 50mm lift, LR would not warrant the driveline at all. He mentioned that you might not have any problems with putting a lift on it, but if you did, being modified, they can't warrant driveline issues. However wider or slightly bigger tyres such as 255/85 would be fine.

The thing is, if you don't lift the vehicle and you take it off road and say you damage the diff on a rock, LR will not warrant the diff because you took it offroad and damaged the vehicle. Is this right? But if you lift the vehicle, you avoid the rock and don't damage the vehicle.

What problems have people had with the 90's when they have done a 2" lift? As previously mentioned you need to be careful with the Front prop as they have rotated the transfer case slightly and the angles are a bit limiting. What other problems do people foresee?

Cheers

Your transfer box, minimum $4000 to replace. Your warrenty on your diffs and drive shafts, probably gear box as they will argue the lift was a factor, just not worth the drama. If you put a bar, winch, ect on just have the 130 front springs fitted to stop any droop. As said in a previous post you can buy all the under body protection you need aftermarket. A 2inch lift, unless you fit longer travel shocks, relocation cones ect, will only lessen your vehicles ability off road by you loosing 2 inches of down travel from your shocks.

Allan

[miky]

... If you put a bar, winch,ect on just have the 130 front springs fitted to stop any droop. ...

Allan

As mentioned in an other post, Adelaide LR dealer said that if they fit 130 springs for me it will void my warrenty. I pointed out that this is done by other interstate dealers but no way would they say my warrenty would be OK if they fitted the springs,



.

[Drew90]

A suspension lift won't change the distance between the diffs and the ground (rocks). Only tyres or portals will do that.

You can drag the axles and diff over rocks all day every day without damaging the internals. However you may wish to get some diff guards to protect the thin diff pan from damage).


Yeah okay, you got me there, I was just trying to give an example DOH! But you all catch my drift?

[Allan]

As mentioned in an other post, Adelaide LR dealer said that if they fit 130 springs for me it will void my warrenty. I pointed out that this is done by other interstate dealers but no way would they say my warrenty would be OK if they fitted the springs,



.

Have you tried contacting Land Rover Australia re the spring change?

Allan

[dullbird]

Have you tried contacting Land Rover Australia re the spring change?

Allan


There was a message put out by land rover that it was OK to fit genuine HD springs to the front of the 110 and it wouldn't void warranty had to be done by a dealer though