Series 2a SWB build up

[Spalm89]

Hello all,

I am new to these forums and new to being a Land Rover owner. I have recently come into ownership of a Series 2a SWB.

The engine number is 24319006G, I am yet to record the chassis number.

So far the history that I Know of this thing is, it sat around on a farm for a few years when an apprentice at work bought it 6 months ago and has been bush bashing it.

Plans are to do a full chassis restoration as there is a fair bit of rust in there. Is it common for the front spring hangers to completely rust off?

The engine is a 2.25 petrol, starts first time (needs new battery) and seems to run fairly smooth. Has a few leaks but thats to be expected.

Only major mechanical malfunction is the brakes. The rear wheel cylinders have a severe leak, and the previous owner decided it would be a good idea to cut the brake line at the master cylinder and weld of the ends. So it only has the handbrake to stop the vehicle... which is on its way out due to that fact.

Pictures will be up within the next few days.

I am really looking forward to getting this to roadworthy condition as I have always loved the loom of these bad boys.

Cheers, Sean

[d@rk51d3]

Welcome aboard ;)

Don't forget the piccies.

[Lotz-A-Landies]

Hi Sean

Rust in the front dumb irons and spring hangers is common, however if they've rusted off it may be cheaper in the long run to start with a better chassis. Look for one from west of the ranges because they don't experience so much rain and less likely to have been driven on beaches, hence less rust.

Diana

[Spalm89]

Thanks for the replies.

I have found a few places that are selling replacement front legs that have the hanger attached. Also various other brackets and outriggers too.

Is there anywhere in Aus that sells new chassis'? I found a few sites, but they are all based in the UK.

Cheers for all the help,

Sean

[Lotz-A-Landies]

Sean

In the UK they salt the roads in winter and that promotes a lot of rust, out here we don't have the same problems and so no one commercially manufactures replacement chassis.

As I mentioned, it is often cheaper to find another similar vehicle and use the chassis off it. If you acquire one of the same vintage, you can then use the best bits off each to make one.

The only reason that you may want to repair a chassis is if the vehicle has some significance to you or is particularly historic. (Like Tom Cruze's Leyland Badger - of Birdsville postman fame - or one of the Landys used by Len Beadel)

Diana

[wagoo]

Or is particularly historic. (Like Tom Cruze's Leyland Badger - of Birdsville postman fame - or one of the Landys used by Len Beadel)

Diana

Sorry,a bit OT, but would you have a link that explains the specs and modifications that Tom did to the badger.All I know is that it had a British War Department designed Thornycroft rear bogie and 2 sp joey box, but none of the other details.
Wagoo.
Edit, must remember to always Google first. I found the info I wanted , Thanks.
Wagoo.

[Spalm89]

I have found an ex-military SWB. Apparently it has a heavy duty chassis and suspension.

My question is; are the two chassis interchangeable, for example, are engine/gearbox mounts the same? Will the body mounts be identical?

And i haven't forgot about the pics. They're coming, my brother lost the cord to download the pictures off the camera to the computer.

Cheers,
Sean

[JDNSW]

I have found an ex-military SWB. Apparently it has a heavy duty chassis and suspension.

My question is; are the two chassis interchangeable, for example, are engine/gearbox mounts the same? Will the body mounts be identical?

And i haven't forgot about the pics. They're coming, my brother lost the cord to download the pictures off the camera to the computer.

Cheers,
Sean

Chassis are interchangeable. I presume that the military one has extended dumb irons and a military rear cross member. But virtually everything will just bolt onto it, excepting, of course any modifications that may have been made, for example, to fit a different engine.

Note that the vehicle identity legally goes with the chassis, so if you use the military chassis, that is the vehicle identity.

John

[UncleHo]

G'day Spalm89 :)

You will need to get/keep the receipts for both your vehicle and the replacement chassis with both of them in your name, as you will have to submit them as proof of ownership when you take it to Qld Transport for rego. and the vehicle as JDNSW states will take the status/model year of the donor chassis, if it is a genuine Army chassis then a check on the REMLR.com site will possibly give you the year and old army rego number


cheers

[Spalm89]

G'day,

Just a quick update, started stripping my Land Rover, so far most of the body looks ok, chassis is far gone.

Purchasing a military spec SWB, picking it up in a fortnight.

Heres a few photos as promised.

Cheers,
Sean

[Spalm89]

Just a few more...

[Lostkiwi]

Looks like you've got your self a good starting point:)
And lot of hours of hard work to come.
But stick with it as it will be worth it in the end:D

[Spalm89]

Hello,

It has been a while. Slowly chipping away at things.

Got the engine out, solid little unit. Looks good, has good compression, lots of leaks though...

Starting to strip away the body now. Question I have is when removing the steering shaft between the steering wheel and steering box what is the correct procedure?

Do I need to remove the firewall first?

If so what is involved with removing the firewall?

The pedal boxes, throttle linkages, wiring and all fluid lines have already been removed. Front fenders have also when removed.

I'll try and post some update pics if I get a chance.

Cheers all.

Sean

*EDIT* Also how do you remove the wiper motor assembly? Including the cable and 2 actuators.

[Johnno1969]

Hello,

It has been a while. Slowly chipping away at things.

Got the engine out, solid little unit. Looks good, has good compression, lots of leaks though...

Starting to strip away the body now. Question I have is when removing the steering shaft between the steering wheel and steering box what is the correct procedure?

Remove the shaft and the box complete. When you separate the outer shaft and the steering box, it releases all the ball bearings from the race in which they run at the top of the box (lower end of column)

Do I need to remove the firewall first?

No, you can withdraw the steering box and shaft with the firewall in situ.

If so what is involved with removing the firewall?

If, as you say, all the linkages and wiring and things are already removed, and you've removed the steering, you should only have to unbolt it from the towers which brace it at the front (one mounts the steering box) and then the large bolt at either side which mounts it to the chassis outriggers.

The pedal boxes, throttle linkages, wiring and all fluid lines have already been removed. Front fenders have also when removed.

I'll try and post some update pics if I get a chance.

Cheers all.

Sean

*EDIT* Also how do you remove the wiper motor assembly? Including the cable and 2 actuators.

Hey Sean,

I've added a few things above which I hope are of some help to you.

Cheers,

John

[Col.Coleman]

Hey Sean,

If you need any help on site, there is a great group of series specialists around here that just love to do this sort of thing.

Johnno has you covered with his reply, and we could give you some helping hands and knowledge on site.

Cheers

CC

[digger]

I would suggest you have a look through REMLR (is under the AULRO banner) in there are specs and photos of original vehicles and also in service photos etc.. (military vehicles)

If you have a reasonable chassis etc on the ex mil vehicle, Dont write it off if you can help it, they are rarer (and therefore of more historic value) than your standard vehicle, then I'd suggest opting for that path,,, (hopefully most of the body is good too!)

Can do the swb as mil spec then add roof for comfort etc (they bolt straight on/off!)

meanwhile, here is what the CHASSIS Number you have given comes up as:
CalVIN, the Land Rover VIN CALculator

24319006G


243 Model: Land Rover, Series IIA
Body type: Basic or Station wagon
Wheel base: 88in
Engine: petrol
Model years: 1962-1971
Destination: Completely knocked down (CKD), right-hand drive (RHD)
19006 Serial number
G Design: Six significant design modifications
(Suffix used from April 1969 till October 1971)




as said by everyone else, enjoy, ask if you have any questions, there are lots of people here who can help.

cheers ,
Digger

[Spalm89]

Hello,

Thanks for the replies and information. Got the firewall and steering out today, starting on seat boxes and rear tub next weekend.

However, I got over zealous with the pulling apart and removed the steering shaft from the steering box. Are these boxes able to be rebuilt? It looks like the side unbolts exposing the inner workings.

Have ordered a workshop manual and restoration manual form the book depository. USA and UK sites are available. Went for the USA site since we have a stronger dollar. Links are below

Land Rover Series 2, 2A and 3 1958-85 Service and Repair Manual (Haynes Service and Repair Manuals) : J.H. Haynes, Marcus Daniels : 9781859601471 (http://www.bookdepository.com/Land-Rover-Series-2-2A-3-1958-85-Service-Repair-Manual-JH-Haynes/9781859601471)

Land Rover Series I, II and III Restoration Manual (Restoration Manuals) : Lindsay Porter : 9781859606223 (http://www.bookdepository.com/Land-Rover-Series-I-II-III-Restoration-Manual-Lindsay-Porter/9781859606223)

Cheers for all the offers of advice, may have to take you up on them sometime :)

Cheers,
Sean

[drifter]

The AULRO Shop has a pretty good CD, too:

Dave's Interesting Things - SERIESIICD (http://www.davesitshop.com/davesitshop/index.php?_a=viewProd&productId=4)

Really good for step by step procedures when pulling things apart and putting them back together.

[Spalm89]

Cheers for that. Will be ordering that for sure

Cheers,
Sean

[Spalm89]

Hello again,

Finally finished stripping the rover. Next step is to repair, sand blast and galvanise the chassis.

I have some photos of the various rusty patches of the chassis. My question is how do I correctly repair the rear crossmember and the firewall outriggers (which dont look standard at all)?

Should there be seperate outriggers for the fuel tank?

What is the best way of repairing the now missing front dumb irons?

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2012/04/409.jpg
The rear crossmember, with what looks like previous repairs?

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2012/04/410.jpg
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2012/04/411.jpg
The second to last crossmember

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2012/04/412.jpghttps://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2012/04/413.jpg
The D/S firewall outrigger with integrated fuel tank mounts. Is this standard?

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2012/04/414.jpg
the rear fuel tank mounting outrigger

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2012/04/415.jpghttps://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2012/04/416.jpg
The D/S dumb-iron, possibly had a repair previously?

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2012/04/417.jpghttps://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2012/04/418.jpg
The P/S firewall outrigger

So let me know what you think!

Cheers,
Sean

[stevep]

on the rear cross member - if by repair you mean the plates on top at 45 degrees where the cross member joins the main rails - those plates are meant to be there.

regards
Steve