Built some "4 way" rock sliders/air tanks/steps/recovery points

[spudboy]

Got stuck in with the welder last weekend to build my version of what Defender rock sliders should look like.

I wanted to replace the flimsy tin with something more substantial, but I didn't want to reduce the ground clearance by just whacking on some sliders underneath the original sills.

I also wanted the sliders to hold air from my compressor, have tree sliders attached (which work as a step too) and have a decent recovery point on the side too. I've just remembered as I type this that I want to be able to jack from them, so I better go and add something for my hi-lift jack to lock into (to stop it sliding when lifting)

If you want to see more details of how they were built, take a look at posts 26/27 on this thread: http://www.aulro.com/afvb/projects-tutorials/120251-spudboys-130-defender-camper-build-uk-sth-africa-project-2.html#post1422492

The end result after a day in the shed looks like this:
http://www.aulro.com/afvb/attachments/projects-tutorials/33149d1297042967-spudboys-130-defender-camper-build-uk-sth-africa-project-130sliders-005.jpg

http://www.aulro.com/afvb/attachments/projects-tutorials/33150d1297042978-spudboys-130-defender-camper-build-uk-sth-africa-project-130sliders-004.jpg

Just got to finish off the welding and prime/paint and should be looking good.

Total cost so far is about $50 of steel and a day in the shed. The second one should be built quicker as now I have all the dimensions sorted.

Cheers
David

[dullbird]

Looks the goods!!!

[isuzurover]

Looks good - however why is the rail angled down rather than up? IMHO it will make it harder to stand on and give you less clearance offroad.

If it was mine I would cut the tack welds and flip it around.

[spudboy]

Well - I've angled it down so Mrs Spud can step on something a bit lower (she only has short girly legs - she's 5'9").

I reckon I've gained about 100mm by replacing the tin sheet under the door (instead of putting sliders under the original bodywork - like the LR OEM steps) so losing 20mm from the downward angle isn't too major.

I guess I could un-tack them and make the bottom of the step tube the same height as the bottom of the sliders.....

[isuzurover]

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/

This is the height I made mine for maximum clearance offroad. My SO is a few inches shorter than yours, but maybe she is better at jumping :D

[Rimmer]

I really like the angled down appearance.

As I was informed, a strip of grip tape (sourced from any chandlery) will overcome any issues entering and exiting the vehicle.

Mine are a copy of "discowhites" design and incorporated sockets to take air fittings also.

Great build Spudboy!

Tod.

[spudboy]

Hi Rimmer - how much useful air is held in just the rock sliders do you think?

There was a suggestion on the other (linked) thread that I'd only get about 8L of air in the sliders, and this may not be enough. They suggested I get an air tank from a truck with 20L capacity, but am trying to keep weight down, so if the rock sliders do the job then I'll be happy with that.

If you start airing up your tyres etc, do you get some useful assistance from the stored air?

Edit: Also - what pressures does your pump cut in/out? I have a 70PSI on / 100PSI off switch

[weeds]

the air contained in your sliders is better than what most guys have

i thought about doing the same when i built my sliders....thats are far as i got

[isuzurover]

Hi Rimmer - how much useful air is held in just the rock sliders do you think?

There was a suggestion on the other (linked) thread that I'd only get about 8L of air in the sliders, and this may not be enough. They suggested I get an air tank from a truck with 20L capacity, but am trying to keep weight down, so if the rock sliders do the job then I'll be happy with that.

If you start airing up your tyres etc, do you get some useful assistance from the stored air?

Edit: Also - what pressures does your pump cut in/out? I have a 70PSI on / 100PSI off switch

My sliders are air tanks. My system runs at ~120psi. Both tanks will take 1x 33" tyre from 0-25 psi. The compressor can reinflate the tanks while you are swapping the tyre chuck from one tyre to another.

[roverrescue]

Ben,
what size RHS are your sliders made from?

S

[isuzurover]

Ben,
what size RHS are your sliders made from?

S

EDIT 100x50x3

[pfillery]

http://i124.photobucket.com/albums/p29/isuzurover/LR_PICS/County_parts052.jpg

This is the height I made mine for maximum clearance offroad. My SO is a few inches shorter than yours, but maybe she is better at jumping :D

The only problem i can see with these is that they protrude further than the outer line of the body of the vehicle. Would these count as an illegal mod? Or are side steps etc exempt from such silly rules? I hava an idea that in qld at least, nothing can protrude where it may cause injury to pedestrians etc (I wanted side steps on my series but have left them off for this reason)

[strangy]

Very nice mate, well done!!
It doesnt matter if 8 litres is all each slider holds. Thats 8 litres (or whatever yours cube out at) you dont have to wait for when inflating.

cheers

[spudboy]

The only problem i can see with these is that they protrude further than the outer line of the body of the vehicle. Would these count as an illegal mod? Or are side steps etc exempt from such silly rules? I hava an idea that in qld at least, nothing can protrude where it may cause injury to pedestrians etc (I wanted side steps on my series but have left them off for this reason)

I made my tree protectors/steps stick out the same distance as the flares/eyebrows, so am hoping that doesn't count as a protusion. The overall width of the car has not increased at all, so should be OK.

[isuzurover]

The only problem i can see with these is that they protrude further than the outer line of the body of the vehicle. Would these count as an illegal mod? Or are side steps etc exempt from such silly rules? I hava an idea that in qld at least, nothing can protrude where it may cause injury to pedestrians etc (I wanted side steps on my series but have left them off for this reason)


They don't stick out as far as my previous sidesteps. I cannot see anything in the ADRs or state regs which would cause issues - just as you can fit wider flares if you fit wider wheels...

Btw - IME it is good if they stick out at least that far. In my other vehicle I have rubbed up against rocks and trees while on a side slope. If the sliders don't stick out far enough you can still damage the body as it is leaning into the obstacle (hope that makes sense?).

[VladTepes]

Nice.

Any chance of some pics of the brackets you have to secure the to the chassis / outriggers ?

I'm wanting to get a set made up for the Defender 130 (nobody seems to make affordable ones that are anyuse). I also want mne to replace that stupd sill panel which (on mine) is a bent as bugery from the TJM sliders/sidesteps bouncing up when they hit something.

Which beggars the question as to how well they are secured - don;t want them moving up and denting the bottom of the doors.....

[Rimmer]

Hi Rimmer - how much useful air is held in just the rock sliders do you think?

There was a suggestion on the other (linked) thread that I'd only get about 8L of air in the sliders, and this may not be enough. They suggested I get an air tank from a truck with 20L capacity, but am trying to keep weight down, so if the rock sliders do the job then I'll be happy with that.

If you start airing up your tyres etc, do you get some useful assistance from the stored air?

Edit: Also - what pressures does your pump cut in/out? I have a 70PSI on / 100PSI off switch

Mine are 75x50x3 so I would expect about the same as Izuzurover.

Haven't tested capacity and the like yet.

As others stated "some is better than none".

Keep up the terrific work, a credit to your skills and motivation!

Tod.

[isuzurover]

Nice.

Any chance of some pics of the brackets you have to secure the to the chassis / outriggers ?


Here are mine - I used existing holes where possible. Front mounts to the bulkhead/firewall bolt, the remainder are 4x M12 bolts through holes drilled in the outriggers.

http://i124.photobucket.com/albums/p29/isuzurover/LR_PICS/County_parts055.jpg

I have jacked from the sliders a few times, they are more than solid enough.

[pfillery]

They don't stick out as far as my previous sidesteps. I cannot see anything in the ADRs or state regs which would cause issues - just as you can fit wider flares if you fit wider wheels...

Btw - IME it is good if they stick out at least that far. In my other vehicle I have rubbed up against rocks and trees while on a side slope. If the sliders don't stick out far enough you can still damage the body as it is leaning into the obstacle (hope that makes sense?).

I wasn't sure how the regs went. I have a series so no flares and no side skirts, just flat body from gutter to sill. I want steps so it is easier for my daughter to get up and in there but the local 4x4 shop said it has to fit within the original outside lines, so for a series that is nil.

[spudboy]

Nice.

Any chance of some pics of the brackets you have to secure the to the chassis / outriggers ?

I'm wanting to get a set made up for the Defender 130 (nobody seems to make affordable ones that are anyuse). I also want mne to replace that stupd sill panel which (on mine) is a bent as bugery from the TJM sliders/sidesteps bouncing up when they hit something.

Which beggars the question as to how well they are secured - don;t want them moving up and denting the bottom of the doors.....

Here's a couple more pics of how the sliders are attached to the 130.

There are 3 bolts at the back (welded both sides), that go through the middle of the beam, and bolt to the outriggers (my 130 has 2 rear outriggers). The recovery point is welded to the head of the last bolt.

http://www.aulro.com/afvb/attachments/general-chat/33218d1297234601-built-some-4-way-rock-sliders-air-tanks-steps-recovery-points-sliderfixings-001.jpg

http://www.aulro.com/afvb/attachments/general-chat/33219d1297234615-built-some-4-way-rock-sliders-air-tanks-steps-recovery-points-sliderfixings-002.jpg

The middle is bolted via 2 tabs to the under door rail, which used to have the tin skirt attached. I just used the same brackets.

http://www.aulro.com/afvb/attachments/general-chat/33220d1297234625-built-some-4-way-rock-sliders-air-tanks-steps-recovery-points-sliderfixings-003.jpg

The front attaches to the bulkhead main 19mm bolt.
http://www.aulro.com/afvb/attachments/general-chat/33221d1297234637-built-some-4-way-rock-sliders-air-tanks-steps-recovery-points-sliderfixings-004.jpg

The "winged" thing right at the front is a snug fit to the underneath of the firewall support and should stop the beam twisting. I will drill a couple of holes in it so I can bolt it to the chassis.

The whole top of the beam sits tight against the original metalwork under the doors, which is pretty substantial. If it takes a hit, there is no gap for it to "hammer" against the bodywork as is it sitting right upon it already.

[slug_burner]

What if any is the purpose of the weld as per red arrow?
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2011/02/1011.jpg

Great job

[alittlebitconcerned]

Great idea and they look great. Any thought of selling a few?

[dullbird]

What if any is the purpose of the weld as per red arrow?
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2011/02/1011.jpg

Great job

Perhaps to strengthen the hole and to prevent elongation?????

[Killer]

It looks to me to be a bush welded into the hole, to spread the contact area on the shackle pin.

Cheers, Mick.

[spudboy]

Yeah - it's a 25mm bush in a 10mm piece of plate steel to spread the load. A standard ARB shackle just fits across this.

Also the bottom half of the bush is welded to a bolt which goes through to the chassis on the other side to give it a direct connection.

I didn't plan it like that, but I cut the hole in the 10mm plate with a plasma cutter and it was as rough as guts, so thought I'd tidy it up by using a bush, and then the idea of spreading the load came to me......

Cheers
David

[Hamish71]

What a fantastic idea....air in the sliders.

I have a couple of questions:

1. What fitting, and where will you place it, to get air out of the tank?

2. Where is the compressor mounted? Engine bay? Cab? or chassis rail?

[isuzurover]

What a fantastic idea....air in the sliders.

I have a couple of questions:

1. What fitting, and where will you place it, to get air out of the tank?

2. Where is the compressor mounted? Engine bay? Cab? or chassis rail?

If you look at the pic I posted in post #18 on page 2, you can see the threaded hole for a standard female air fitting - This fitting sits between the rear door and the wheel arch. If you look really hard you can also see the inlet to the air tank at the front on the inner face (standard 1/4 BSPT). The other air tank has a pressure release (safety) valve next to the air fitting.

I just welded round sectiond of metal on where each fitting hole was going then drilled and tapped them to size (1/4 BSPT, 1/2 BSPT etc...)

I have a converted AC compressor feeding the tanks.

[spudboy]

Hi Hamish - the air fitting is just a standard thread nut that takes a compression fitting for air line, and I TIG welded that into the sliders. I got all the stuff from Pirtek at a cost of about $50 for the T pieces (I have air in both sliders), joiners, the hose and etc.

The compressor is in a separate underslung compartment that's attached to my canopy. The air lines will go through a grommet and out to the sliders. The connection point to pump up tyres etc will also be in this compartment, which means (on the downside) that I have to open the door of the compartment to air up, but (on the upside) I won't get mud and dust into my airline fittings.

I have a 12V pressure switch to automatically set the pump running when the pressure drops below 70PSI.

HTH
David

[frantic]

Great idea and they look great. Any thought of selling a few?
Ditto?;)

[spudboy]

Well, at the rate I build them and with all the "handmade-ness" it would be a long drawn out process, and I'd have to ask a stupid price :eek: Also, my 130 is an Extra-Cab (not a single cab or a dual cab) so the fixing points in most 130s are probably a bit different than mine.

It is not rocket science. All you need is a welder, a grinder, a drill and a couple of free days. Anyone thinking of having a go, just start with a 75mm x50mm beam and tinker away.

Am happy to provide measurements or extra photos or whatever, but I grow better grapes than I make sliders - this is just a side-hobby thing.

[isuzurover]

... I grow better grapes than I make sliders - this is just a side-hobby thing.

What sort of grapes? And do you turn them into "juice" ;)

Btw - very neat work on the sliders. Any flex when you put a jack under them?

[TimNZ]

For the inspiration that is :) I have slightly, (completely), ripped off your idea and built some sliders for my 110 on the weekend. I haven't used them for air tanks, (yet), as I don't completely trust my welding to be airtight :angel:

Pics:

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2011/02/699.jpg

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2011/02/700.jpg

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2011/02/701.jpg

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2011/02/702.jpg

Cheers,

[spudboy]

Nice work! Very neat welding.

You certainly work faster than I do - I am still only 50% through the 2nd slider.

They look excellent.

[TimNZ]

Nice work! Very neat welding.

You certainly work faster than I do - I am still only 50% through the 2nd slider.

They look excellent.


Don't look too close at the welding! :) It took all weekend to do them, the hardest part was getting the tube bends to match, and to be the same length! That and having to cut all the angles correctly with and angle grinder......

I added a bit of 10x10 bar on the top to close the gap between the sliders and the panels/doors, and a bit of grip tape on top of the tube so I don't slide off them when they are wet.

Once again thanks for the inspiration!!!

Cheers,

[frantic]

TimNZ Very nice job on the sliders! These are exactly what I am looking for to fit to my 02 defender 110 wagon and look alot better than the uk models:)
I like the slight angle on the tube so easier for the shorter partner/ kids to get into the defender.
How are they attached to the def? and i dont suppose you want to make a few extras?;)

p.s maybe you should change your name to Tim WANZ.

[spudboy]

What sort of grapes? And do you turn them into "juice" ;)

Btw - very neat work on the sliders. Any flex when you put a jack under them?


We grow Adelaide Hills Sauvignon Blanc, but just sell the grapes to a winery so no bottles of our own. The price this year has been horrendous. Last year was over $2100 per tonne, this year we have been offered $400 :( Those flaming New Zealanders are to blame - cheap Sauvignon (which is still quite good) has killed the market for up-scale Australian SB.

Have not tried jacking from the new sliders yet, but should get around to that next weekend. They might flex a bit, but I don't reckon it'll be much.

[V8Ian]

Spudboy, is it hard to train horses to muster grapes? :p

[lebanon]

We grow Adelaide Hills Sauvignon Blanc, but just sell the grapes to a winery so no bottles of our own. The price this year has been horrendous. Last year was over $2100 per tonne, this year we have been offered $400 :( Those flaming New Zealanders are to blame - cheap Sauvignon (which is still quite good) has killed the market for up-scale Australian SB.

Have not tried jacking from the new sliders yet, but should get around to that next weekend. They might flex a bit, but I don't reckon it'll be much.

Maybe it is time to invest in a winery. Money is in the final product.

[TimNZ]

TimNZ Very nice job on the sliders! These are exactly what I am looking for to fit to my 02 defender 110 wagon and look alot better than the uk models:)
I like the slight angle on the tube so easier for the shorter partner/ kids to get into the defender.
How are they attached to the def? and i dont suppose you want to make a few extras?;)

p.s maybe you should change your name to Tim WANZ.


Thanks Frantic, the sliders are bolted to 2 out-riggers at the back, and to the bolt that holds the firewall on at the front. I thought Spudboys idea of having the tube on an angle, (in my case 30deg), was a great idea, (which is why I copied it :) ). As for making extras, I have the same problem as Spudboy, ie the "handmadeness" factor. It would probably be cheaper to buy them as I sunk nearly 16hours + materials into making them, mainly because I had to make most of the cuts by eye with a grinder, (several times...).

Cheers,

Tim

[isuzurover]

Maybe it is time to invest in a winery. Money is in the final product.

There is a glut of wine at the moment as well as grapes in AU. Which is good for the consumer ;).

[philco]

Thanks Frantic, the sliders are bolted to 2 out-riggers at the back, and to the bolt that holds the firewall on at the front. I thought Spudboys idea of having the tube on an angle, (in my case 30deg), was a great idea, (which is why I copied it :) ). As for making extras, I have the same problem as Spudboy, ie the "handmadeness" factor. It would probably be cheaper to buy them as I sunk nearly 16hours + materials into making them, mainly because I had to make most of the cuts by eye with a grinder, (several times...).

Cheers,

Tim

My bull bar i made took approx 80 hours including design etc, its worth it when you put it on the truck though, I always look at mine and am proud of the job.

[lebanon]

There is a glut of wine at the moment as well as grapes in AU. Which is good for the consumer ;).

What will be the price of a bottle of Australian made red wine? Over here in Lebanon the local production can cost from the equivalent of 6 USD and goes up to 30 USD for an aged one.

[spudboy]

Well tonight I finished up the welding of the drivers side slider. Total time to build the pair has been 3 days, which is horribly slow, but I've had to do a bit of re-work here and there as things bent a tad when I welded the steps onto the sliders.

Earlier in the thread someone suggested that I needed a drain hold to get any water out, so I have built in a plug at the end which can be removed to act as a drain hole:
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/

Someone also asked about how they were fixed to the outriggers, so here are a couple of shots of the 'stubs' I have welded to the outriggers to accept the bolts on the sliders:

http://www.aulro.com/afvb/attachments/general-chat/33593d1298203875-built-some-4-way-rock-sliders-air-tanks-steps-recovery-points-slidersbuildfinished-005.jpg

http://www.aulro.com/afvb/attachments/general-chat/33594d1298203897-built-some-4-way-rock-sliders-air-tanks-steps-recovery-points-slidersbuildfinished-010.jpg

On the photo above, you can see the tab I've welded on the bottom to accept the lifter/tongue on a Jack-All high lift jack. The little arms stop the jack from sliding left or right. I have tested it with my high lift jack and the sliders don't move a jot, so pretty pleased with their rigidity.

Priming & painting next.

[clubagreenie]

How does the jack tabs and the plug fit in with the sliding aspect of them?

I only ask as it seems self defeating and I'm currently drawing up some for the D2 using 150 x 50 x 2 (or 3) to sit under the flat of the sill and the 150 width comes right out to the line of the outer edge of the current plastic trim is now. Then adding the round bar as you've done (for the kids, post 3" lift). I can mount to the body outriggers and also into retained nuts into a number of existing holes in the sills. Was planning on recessing the bolt heads into the sliders but the jack points I wasn't sure about adding due to the anti slide potential.

[spudboy]

Well, you are right - I guess I lose a bit of slidability with the jack lugs and the drain plug, but they are right at the and of the sliders and I am expecting the middle bits to cop the worst of anything.

Recessed would have been the go, but I was too far into the build when someone suggested these mods.

The jack lugs are only protruding about 5mm and overall the steps are 20mm lower than the base of the sliders, so reckon it'll be fine. If not - I'll have some bent lugs and the head of the drain might snap off, so I'd just have to re-weld/re-drill these back again. Not a huge deal.

[clubagreenie]

The pic looks like it sticks down much further.

[isuzurover]

FWIW - I put the drains on mine in the end caps. I also used 1/4 BSPT brass plugs, which sit (almost) flush if you buy the headless (socket head) type.

[spudboy]

The pic looks like it sticks down much further.

Maybe it's 10mm :p I didn't measure!

[1103.9TDI]

Hey Ben, do you think you'd have time to knock up another set if the price is right and I ask nicely?, they look great, and are practical to boot!

[Tombie]

Damn I hope you lot are using PIPE and not tube for the air tank
Components??

If not, I don't want to ever be anywhere near them :D

[isuzurover]

Hey Ben, do you think you'd have time to knock up another set if the price is right and I ask nicely?, they look great, and are practical to boot!

You asking me Gerry???

Probably not... (work too slow to make any money ;))

I could ask the guy who is currently repairing my doors though what he would charge to make a copy. He only charges $30/hr, so it might work out cheap enough.

Do you have sill tanks though? I had to modify one of mine when I fitted a sill tank.



Damn I hope you lot are using PIPE and not tube for the air tank
Components??

If not, I don't want to ever be anywhere near them :D

Good point. My first set (for the IIA) were made from 4 mm wall seamless hydraulic PIPE. Since then though I have seen plenty of tube slider/air tanks - even down to 2 mm wall. I have never seen one fail. That said, the pressures are low, and a safety valve is fitted to the system. Mine are only set at 85psi. I also made sure the seams are facing down/inside.

[clubagreenie]

Whats the issue with tube? I can get seamless hyd TUBE rated for just as high a pressure as pipe, and in some instances higher.

Generalisation is the issue. Imperial nominal bore (NB) round hollow steel is NB PIPE, measured internally is not an exact internal size, with wall thickness increasing OD as wall increases.

Metric & Imperial CDS (cold drawn seamless) TUBE is measured externally, with wall thickness reducing internal diameter.

Both are OK for pressure apps but NB Pipe is very heavy due to the wall sizes. I have tested SHS 150 x 50 x 2 for the same application (sliders with tank) for my D2 and a 2m length with just weld capped ends will not deform until 408psi, once I welded some inserts through it for the bolts going into the sills I couldn't get it to deform but it did start to split a weld at just over 600psi.

Should survive a ARB compressor or I can pump up before going away and have a large reserve to start with.

[isuzurover]

Whats the issue with tube? I can get seamless hyd TUBE rated for just as high a pressure as pipe,

Tube is structural, pipe is for fluids.

AFAIK there is no such thing as "hydraulic tube".

However in general I agree with your statements. As long as you know what you are doing there is no reason you can't build vessels from tube for low pressure applications such as tyre inflation.

[clubagreenie]

Anything measured OD is tube (and can be Met or imp), Pipe is measured NB (ID) and is only Imp (though there are metric equvalence tables).

Used to sell it all.


This was my biggest bugbear, someone comes in (and usually the Hyd fitters were the worst) "want some 1" OD pipe"
"so you want either 1/2" NB sched 160 or 3/4"sched 80?" "NO! 1" OD pipe"

At that point I'd give them the book, tell them to find it since they knew better and go make coffee.

[isuzurover]

Anything measured OD is tube (and can be Met or imp), Pipe is measured NB (ID) and is only Imp (though there are metric equvalence tables).

I am aware of that. However as mentioned I have never heard of the "seamless hydraulic TUBE" you mentioned???

[clubagreenie]

You can't get (well in 12 years I never got asked for, offered, sold or whatever) anything but CDS tube (not ERW) or NB pipe. In steel Van Lewyn is the main supplier in Aust but I used to buy around 8-10,000 tonnes / month (flown in mostly). In stainless Sandvik makes it all but only brings in imperial, Stauff (ex employer) "brings in" the metric (piggybcked on the sandvik shipments)

[1103.9TDI]

'I could ask the guy who is currently repairing my doors though what he would charge to make a copy. He only charges $30/hr, so it might work out cheap enough.'

'Do you have sill tanks though? I had to modify one of mine when I fitted a sill tank.'

$30/hr!, he must be stuck in the 70's!, are you getting the frames hot dipped? Maybe ask him how many hours he reckons. My steps are steel JRA's, they tend to flex too much for my liking with a high lift under them. I do have one sill tank for the RHS, but still debating whether to fit it, and what to fill it with.

[isuzurover]

are you getting the frames hot dipped?

Not at this stage (can't have the landie off the road for that long atm). But I would like to hot dip the frames and the B/C pillar one day...

[bond]

Would anyone care to give a rough estimate of the cutout in the sliders to fit around the firewall?

Anyone got any good photo's of the finished cutout and how the got a good weld/seal in the cutout?

[bond]

Ok, made a pretty good cut-outs and sealed them up again, just need to pressure test now. (will add some photo's)

What sort of tube roughly are people using for the bent round guards? ~30mm OD? 2.5mm wall?

[clubagreenie]

I used 32NB pipe as it was off the shelf, was just smaller than the cross section of the 50x150 I used for the steps and you can buy bends for it. Comes from 10NB and up, small and long radius bends plus tees/crosses etc.

I don't have any cutouts but here's the weld
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2011/09/581.jpgIt's on a D2, here's pre extensions.https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2011/09/582.jpg
Yes there's a gap because of the D2's curved doors, no I don't care. It's somewhere to put your toes.