How do I fix this - RRS

[101RRS]

I have had my RRS`for 10 weeks and covered 6000km with no issues - until tonight.

After buying my diner and existing the car park and driving over a very wide speed bump - also a pedestrian crossing I heard a gong.

Very shortly after I get - "Transmission range change not available" - shortly followed by "Special programs not available"

Book basically says - call the dealer.

It was raining - wtf

Is there anything I can do - wanted to go 4wding on Sunday and the 101 may not be going.

Thanks

Garry

[Graeme]

Perhaps the message wont re-appear after restarting the engine.

[101RRS]

Perhaps the message wont re-appear after restarting the engine.

Unfortunately it does - will not go away and cannot select low range.

Garry

[wrinklearthur]

Hi Garry

I have no idea about the problem.

But I would be looking for something loose in the way of connections, and any adjustments that are not exactly in their sweet spot.

Other than that, good luck at finding a fix soon.

If one small bump has done that, I wouldn't be doing a trip of two hundred kilometers of corrigations just yet, until you nail this.

Maybe you are lucky it has happened now, instead of being out there somewhere well away from help. :BigThumb:

Cheers Arthur

[KarlB]

Have you tried disconnecting the battery, then reconnecting and trying again. Leave the battery disconnected for several minutes.

Cheers
KarlB
:(

[ADMIRAL]

I have had my RRS`for 10 weeks and covered 6000km with no issues - until tonight.

After buying my diner and existing the car park and driving over a very wide speed bump - also a pedestrian crossing I heard a gong.

Very shortly after I get - "Transmission range change not available" - shortly followed by "Special programs not available"

Book basically says - call the dealer.

It was raining - wtf

Is there anything I can do - wanted to go 4wding on Sunday and the 101 may not be going.

Thanks

Garry

Hi Garry,

While my issue is not exactly the same, I get very similar messages, including' special programs not available' , and the vehicle locks into access height. I thought it was something to do with the wiring loom under the drivers seat, as it occurred only when my wife drove the vehicle, and that meant moving the seat forward. I was able to reset the vehicle by moving the seat back, driving the vehicle at over 60kph briefly, stopping and 'rebooting' by locking,unlocking and restarting.

The dealer has been unable to find anything, but now suspects it is gearbox related, rather than wiring. They ran all the diagnostics for no result, but it did clear the problem for about 3 weeks. It has reoccurred twice last week, but is resetting itself after a restart ??

Needless to say it is going back to the dealer. Try the reboot, but ensure you wait until all the dash indicator lights go out before unlocking and starting again. If that fails, try a hard reset , both battery leads off, touch the leads together ( not on the battery ) and reconnect, before trying your restart. This method has also worked for me, but took 2 restarts from the hard reset to reset itself. Note the hard reset will clear all fault codes, and the dealer will not have any data for reference.

There is no logical reason why the resets should make any difference, but if it gets you mobile......!

[ivery819]

Garry.
Have you tried lowering the vehicle and locking it in access height then shutting down and exiting and door locking it. Give it 30 minutes and try again ?

ADMIRAL
Have they checked under the front seats and that the runners are not interfering with the wiring loom. There is a power feed to the back of the gear selector system that can spike the gearbox module and cause strange 'bus ' faults.

[Leo]

Have read about this issue in the past on disco3.co.uk, can't remember but i think there was a tsb as well - has your rrs had all the software upgrades it should have over its life?

In any case, a search on that forum will shed some light.

[Garry]

The last Transmission fault I had was due to the brake switch of all things

It thought I was braking and accelerating at the same time

Not much help I know

G

[drivesafe]

Hi Garry, I could be wrong and I hope Sniegy is about so he can give the correct advice if I am wrong, but a system reset requires the battery leads to be removed and then the positive and negative leads need to be held together, shorted, to give a fully system reset.

Note, if you have a dual battery system, make sure the leads are removed from any auxiliary batteries and if towing a caravan or camper trailer make sure it is unplugged before shorting the cranking battery leads together.

AGAIN, hopefully Sniegy can confirm or discredit this reset method.

[Graeme]

AGAIN, hopefully Sniegy can confirm or discredit this reset method.
I left my D4's battery disconnected for about 10 minutes then connected a multimeter across the positive and negative cables to check for any potential difference, but there was none. I didn't try it after a shorter delay (eg 30 seconds) but there may possibly be some residual stored capacity for a short period whilst any larger capacitors discharge.

[gghaggis]

When doing a hard reset:

FIRST - open the bonnet - so you don't wake the car up again by opening a door!!

Then: exit car, close all doors and wait around 3 mins until the clock goes out. Then disconnect battery leads and either wait 10 to 15 mins, or short them out. This is to ensure there is no residual charge in the capacitors before you reconnect.

Now reconnect the terminals and restart the car. If you need to repeat, you have to go through the whole procedure again.

Seeing as your're not getting any suspension errors, it could be the TCM that's got wet? It's behind the battery on the firewall. Check that the connectors are not wet or corroded.

Cheers,

Gordon

[sniegy]

Hi Garry, I could be wrong and I hope Sniegy is about so he can give the correct advice if I am wrong, but a system reset requires the battery leads to be removed and then the positive and negative leads need to be held together, shorted, to give a fully system reset.

Note, if you have a dual battery system, make sure the leads are removed from any auxiliary batteries and if towing a caravan or camper trailer make sure it is unplugged before shorting the cranking battery leads together.

AGAIN, hopefully Sniegy can confirm or discredit this reset method.
This is correct Tim.
Also as Gordon has said the time in between steps is also critical.

Thanks guys.

Garry, check the connections in the TCCM (Transfer Case Control Module) any sign of corrosion will require a good clean of the terminals.

Again when disconnecting ECU's from the vehicle, again wait for the vehicle to go to sleep for a good 5 mins before disconnecting battery.

Cheers

[101RRS]

Thanks to everyone for your posts and information - there is a lot of information.

The fault was still in the car this morning when I got up so I lifted the bonnet and left it while I had breakfast. I then did the hard reboot. Checked the error and it was gone :). Hi/Lo Range available etc.

Went down to Repco to get a radiator hose for my 101 and all was well. As usual Repco did not have what I wanted so I decided to go to SuperCrap. On starting the error was back - no low range:mad:. Drove to Supercheap and got my hose - on start the error was gone and I checked if I had low range then the error came back so stuck in low range :( - did not fancy driving 10km home in low range. Switched off and waited a minute or so and switched back on and error was gone and drove home without a problem:). Just checked it again and all is OK - fingers crossed.

Gordon - glad you mentioned the TCM - that is probably the problem - yesterday morning I took the battery cover off and this was one area that the detailers had missed before I bought the car to I used the hose on spray (not jet) to clean things up:(. Must have got some water in the TCM - surely it should be water proof. So what happens if you drive through a deep puddle - do you loose low range:mad:.

I addition to the hard reboot I understand that there is a soft reboot using the igntion and door locks - is this so? and what is the routine as I cannot find anything on this.

Thanks to everyone for your help - lets hope the problem stays away - no back to gremlins in the 101.

Garry

[gghaggis]

No, the TCM (TCCM) is NOT waterproof!! Water from wading will rarely get that far up due to air being trapped at the top of the engine bay, but washing it is a no-no!

You'll need to remove the battery, get the TCM off the firewall, disconnect, dry it and all leads thoroughly, reconnect. Good idea to waterproof it while you've got access. If the terminals are corroded, you may need a new TCM :(

Cheers,

Gordon

[101RRS]

No, the TCM (TCCM) is NOT waterproof!! Water from wading will rarely get that far up due to air being trapped at the top of the engine bay, but washing it is a no-no!



Another example of poor design on a vehicle that is supposed to be a full on capable 4wd. It is not unexpected that engine bays will get dirty and require cleaning in the traditional way - to me any component in the engine bay should not be able to be damaged by water.

I guess the good ole days are gone.

Garry

[ADMIRAL]

Garry.
Have you tried lowering the vehicle and locking it in access height then shutting down and exiting and door locking it. Give it 30 minutes and try again ?

ADMIRAL
Have they checked under the front seats and that the runners are not interfering with the wiring loom. There is a power feed to the back of the gear selector system that can spike the gearbox module and cause strange 'bus ' faults.

My response exactly. I released the loom from the clips on the seat, and reattached loosely with zip ties. The frequency of the issue occurring dropped to 2 in 6 weeks. The dealer checked the loom and reattached ( they also advised that there was nothing in the loom to cause the issue )
The problem resurfaced big time within a day of the dealer service. I think they realise it may be a gearbox issue now, and not suspension.

[101RRS]

I have driven over 2000km since the problem showed itself. The more the car is used the less the fault appears and can now be cancelled just by turning the ignition off and back on.

Seems that the module did get splashed and is slowly drying out - where I live corrosion is not likely to be an issue but when I next have the battery out I will pull the module and put some lanolin on the cantacts and try to water proof it.

Cheers

Garry

[oldsalt]

Hi Garry,
go to a good electrical "goodies" place - like Jaycar for example and get the correct silicon for the job - they have special stuff for sealing electrical contacts (it's non corrosive) - I can't remember the name just now - just ask them and they'll put you right. Failing that I'm sure someone here will steer you towards the right "stuff".
cheers :D

[CaverD3]

Get some contact cleaner whilst you are there. Clean the contacts first.
You could take the cover off and seal the CB with some of the plasticote:

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2011/02/582.jpg

and use the silicon grease for the connector.

[Pedro_The_Swift]

Tectyl also make a great waterproofing spray, ;)