making BSF bolts

[series1buff]

The bolts on the bonnet spare mount are BSF 3/8" 20 turns per inch

I managed to turn some up , using 1/2" UNF bolts to begin with.

I had to make them oversize as the threads in the holder are oversize due to rust .

You can see the state of the original bolt ... this gives an idea of the condition of the parts I have !!!!

[series1buff]

The thread cutting is rather tricky for a novice like me , I bought a thread chasing dial, makes things quicker .

[Bigbjorn]

Why bother machining up bolts that cost very little and are readily available? Give Bruce Gardner of B.S.F. BOLTS a call on 0408 056 255. He is in Melbourne so should be no trouble for you to get some from him.

If you are going to do more of this then make life easier by getting a three jaw chuck. Setting a hex head in a four jaw is a total waste of time. You should not need to use a chasing dial on such a fine thread. One cut should do the job.

[Lotz-A-Landies]

Mike

You are such a talent - you'll give anything a go! :)

Given that the originals had a head the same as the 9/16 wheel nuts, I wonder if it would work to use 9/16" bolts or the unified standard bolt with the same size head as the wheel nuts?

Next thing you need to do is work out how to sheridise and then we can all send our bolts and nuts down to you for processing! :) :) :)

Diana

[Bigbjorn]

If the internal threads in the bonnet mount are badly corroded, then an easy solution is to drill them out with either a 10.0mm or 25/64" drill and tap 7/16" x 20 tpi NF. This will give 75% thread depth and the NF bolts are cheaply available anywhere.

[JDNSW]

Brian, I don't suppose you know whether the source quoted above can supply the sherardised bolts required for this application? And how about the ones used for Series 3 with Metric heads to match the wheel nuts?

John

[Lotz-A-Landies]

AFAIK The 27mm head ones for SIII and for that matter the ones for SII/SIIa had a larger bolt size, they were either 1/2" or 5/8"

[JDNSW]

AFAIK The 27mm head ones for SIII and for that matter the ones for SII/SIIa had a larger bolt size, they were either 1/2" or 5/8"

S2/2a and 3 are 1/2" BSF, but the heads are either 1/2W or 27mm to match the wheel nuts. (I swapped them recently when putting a S3 bonnet on my 2a).

[Bigbjorn]

Brian, I don't suppose you know whether the source quoted above can supply the sherardised bolts required for this application? And how about the ones used for Series 3 with Metric heads to match the wheel nuts?

John

No idea. Why not 'phone Bruce. My contacts with him are mostly in regard to BA taps and dies of which he has an large quantity and wide range.

Perhaps retap the mounting plate to a suitable metric thread and use stainless bolts of that head size. Refit using Loctite nickel anti-seize whatever fasteners you end up with.

[isuzurover]

...

Next thing you need to do is work out how to sheridise and then we can all send our bolts and nuts down to you for processing! :) :) :)



It seems I have all the gear here at work to sherardise (furnace, roller, containers etc...)

Except zinc.

If anyone has a small block of zinc they are willing to part with I can give it a try.

[85 county]

If you are going to do more of this then make life easier by getting a three jaw chuck. Setting a hex head in a four jaw is a total waste of time. .

Mate, 3 jaw chucks are for apprentaces, poofters, pommy techs and lazy types. :D:D:D

depending on the boult he started with, a hot stamped head may not be all that true any way.

or am i just to lazy to swap out the chuck LOL

series1buff GOOD on ya for giving it a go and ending up with some thing usable. Thread cutting is a dying skill ( as simple as it really is) aussie trades people seem to have only ever cut a thread in trade school ( now Days, not really the requirement). So I would say you equal them when it comes to cutting threads.

[Bigbjorn]

Mate, 3 jaw chucks are for apprentaces, poofters, pommy techs and lazy types. :D:D:D

depending on the boult he started with, a hot stamped head may not be all that true any way.

or am i just to lazy to swap out the chuck LOL

series1buff GOOD on ya for giving it a go and ending up with some thing usable. Thread cutting is a dying skill ( as simple as it really is) aussie trades people seem to have only ever cut a thread in trade school ( now Days, not really the requirement). So I would say you equal them when it comes to cutting threads.

Three jaw chucks are correctly used for hex or triangular sections or machined surfaces. These are all we were ever permitted to use one with during my apprentice days (1957-61). A hex head bolt in a three jaw chuck with a tailstock centre will run as true as you need for a general purpose fastener. Many shops would not let an apprentice use a three jaw chuck, wishing them to become quick and accurate in setting up in a four jaw chuck.

Anybody who calls himself a fitter-machinist would be competent at screw cutting. It is still a necessary and widely practiced skill. Commercial reasons in production work would dictate the use of a die or Coventry die head for threading three or four non-precision bolts though.

[chazza]

Why bother machining up bolts that cost very little and are readily available?


From what little I of know of Mike, I should say it is because he enjoys a challenge and he enjoys learning new skills. If we use your rationale, why do any of us bother restoring Series Land Rovers, when we can buy one that is already done, or newer, or cheaper? Because it is fun of course! :D

As for the cost and availability of BSF bolts they are not cheap - I once paid $5ea for some 1/2" BSF nyloc nuts from a source you know of in Oz - and I suspect Mike is killing two-birds-with-one-stone.

Top work Mike and thank you for telling us,

Cheers Charlie

[series1buff]

Yes

Thanks for the positive comments.

The whole idea was to learn new skills .. I've made all sorts of bits and pieces for my 80" ..new top/hood sticks , seat covers , tailgate , canvas top and more . Living out in the bush means you cannot buy stuff readily, making your own is the way to go . We aussies are famous as improvisers ... bailing twine and fencing wire ..gee how many Land Rovers on farms are held together by this and that.

Looking at the parts book, I'm not 100% sure of the spare mounting setup on the bonnet , the bolts I made are long and apparently go through a "clamp for spare wheel" part No. 300752 . Can somebody post details ?

BTW it's not possible to buy a "off the shelf " bolt like I made , it's a special as indicated in the parts book.... quote: 301274 " special bolt for clamp " X 2
The head is large in proportion to the shaft .

MIKE

[series1buff]

Mike


Given that the originals had a head the same as the 9/16 wheel nuts, I wonder if it would work to use 9/16" bolts or the unified standard bolt with the same size head as the wheel nuts?



Diana

Yes Diana , that would work OK too .. I used the UNF bolts as blanks cos I had them on hand in the bin ... the head on them dimensionally matched the old original rusty BSF special . It's all a compromise, restoring these cars ..you do what you can with whats on hand .

BTW changing topic. I have discovered it's possible to buy the special diaphram material as used in carbies..... in the acc. pump etc. A place in Melbourne sells it from a roll . You can make up your own diaphrams instead of buying a whole kit . the stuff is available in various thicknesses .2 .5 mm or whatever . I can post the details in anyone is interested.

MIKE

[chazza]

Please do Mike :)

Cheers Charlie

[series1buff]

Please do Mike :)

Cheers Charlie

here is the web site .. the stuff we want is NITRILE sheet


Diaphragms & Diaphragm Sheet Material (http://www.reglinrubber.com/products/diaphragm_material.html)