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Wil2k
17th February 2011, 05:38 PM
Hey all!

I read somewhere online that you can change the axle / U bolts over to the BOTTOM of the leaf springs on a trailer in order to raise it a small amount.

Is this true?
Is this safe?
Would you do it to your own trailer?
:D

It would bring our trailer up a couple of inches and make it sit just nicely behind the D2. I'm not too fussed really, but having it sit a little higher will keep the trailer s tailgate out of trouble in some steep spots. Driveways mainly.

Cheers

Wil

LOVEMYRANGIE
17th February 2011, 05:43 PM
If you have a Reece hitch, get a lower mount insert for it to level it out.
If you don't have a Reece, get a Reece type towbar assy!!


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PhilipA
17th February 2011, 05:44 PM
Easy if you have a square axle, but don't get delusions of granduer that you can then take it on rough roads unless it has proper shackle springs and not slipper springs.
Its not pretty when the axle turns right angles in the middle of nowhere because the centre bolt has broken or the U bolts have come loose and disappeared.
Regards Philip A

Lotz-A-Landies
17th February 2011, 06:26 PM
Firstly everything is possible! :)

A trailer should be towed with the tub and drawbar level to the ground. To achieve this in a 4WD most people have a drop in the ball mount, you can just as easily raise the suspension either by longer shackles (non-slipper springs) or doing a spring over.

All the components should be the same, irrespective of spring over or under. The one thing that happens with a spring over is that you then have greater upwards spring travel and this may be sufficient for slipper springs to escape the cage at the back end or for springs to invert - you may need to insert a bump stop between the chassis and spring.

Spring over or spring under makes very little if any difference to load carying capacity, however by raising the platform level of the trailer you are raising the centre of gravity making the trailer less stable.

If you do spring over your axle, you need to also reverse the spring centre pin so the nut is on the top and if you have brakes on the trailer you need to rotate them 180 degrees also.

After that you need to increase the length of the mudflaps by the same as the lift.

BigJon
17th February 2011, 07:44 PM
I have done a few trailer spring over conversions.

On a single axle unbraked trailer it is very easy.
On my tandem trailer with cable disc brakes it was a bit more work, but still quite easy. Good results with both trailers, sit level behind 4wd tow vehicles.

wardy1
17th February 2011, 09:46 PM
Firstly everything is possible! :)

A trailer should be towed with the tub and drawbar level to the ground. To achieve this in a 4WD most people have a drop in the ball mount, you can just as easily raise the suspension either by longer shackles (non-slipper springs) or doing a spring over.

All the components should be the same, irrespective of spring over or under. The one thing that happens with a spring over is that you then have greater upwards spring travel and this may be sufficient for slipper springs to escape the cage at the back end or for springs to invert - you may need to insert a bump stop between the chassis and spring.

Spring over or spring under makes very little if any difference to load carying capacity, however by raising the platform level of the trailer you are raising the centre of gravity making the trailer less stable.

If you do spring over your axle, you need to also reverse the spring centre pin so the nut is on the top and if you have brakes on the trailer you need to rotate them 180 degrees also.

After that you need to increase the length of the mudflaps by the same as the lift.

I understand the spring centre pin, but why the need to rotate the brakes 180 degrees? I have elec drum brakes, don't need the lift as the trailer was built for (real) off road...just curious.

LOVEMYRANGIE
17th February 2011, 09:57 PM
I understand the spring centre pin, but why the need to rotate the brakes 180 degrees? I have elec drum brakes, don't need the lift as the trailer was built for (real) off road...just curious.

Generally you have a leading and trailing edge on the shoes with drum brakes, depending on what type of actuation arrangement they have. Running them backwards can cause the shoes to lock the wheels as the leading edge gets pushed into the drum against it's rotation.

Cheers

Andrew



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slug_burner
18th February 2011, 12:10 AM
Generally you have a leading and trailing edge on the shoes with drum brakes, depending on what type of actuation arrangement they have. Running them backwards can cause the shoes to lock the wheels as the leading edge gets pushed into the drum against it's rotation.

Cheers

Andrew



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So are you saying that turning through 180 is needed or not?

LOVEMYRANGIE
18th February 2011, 12:26 AM
So are you saying that turning through 180 is needed or not?

You will do if both shoes dig into the drum. You may also be able to just swap the backing plates over after turning the axle 180degrees.
Even then it depends on which way 180 degrees is being defined, swapping sides left to right or rotating it on it's seat....
A lot of effort though when a simple spring lift or towbar change will do the same thing.....


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BigJon
18th February 2011, 08:44 AM
A lot of effort though when a simple spring lift or towbar change will do the same thing.....


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Spring lift = money. Towbar change = money and reduced departure angle.

Springover = Free :D

Redback
18th February 2011, 09:27 AM
Spring lift = money. Towbar change = money and reduced departure angle.

Springover = Free :D

Alot easier too:D

Tank
18th February 2011, 11:40 AM
I understand the spring centre pin, but why the need to rotate the brakes 180 degrees? I have elec drum brakes, don't need the lift as the trailer was built for (real) off road...just curious.
If you have a round axle you need to rotate so the springs will sit on the saddles, or if you dont wish to rotate axle you can, 1, weld new spring saddles onto axle, 2, use a square axle, Regards Frank.

Sharkee
14th March 2011, 09:00 PM
I have done 3 of these now, 1 a Jayco Swan Camper trailer, 2 my 6x4, 3 an 18ft Empire poptop van I had. All were done to give a little more ground clearance and to suit a 4by's height better but by no means makes them an offroader. I found they all still towed well. How hard to do depends on what equipment you have but generally pretty easy and I'm no mechanic. One tip when doing it is mark your axle both sides where the spring sat to ensure you keep your axle centrered properly. I didnt rotate the axles on mine just basically put it under instead of on top and yes dont forget to turn the bolt around in the spring. Depending on what brakes are on it make sure the cables, lines or wires still reach no problems.
Note: Be aware that if you have an annexe it will no longer reach the ground.I found out the hard way:mad:
Step will also be higher.