What are the secrets to a successful sump gasket seal on a 300Tdi?

[86mud]

Hi all

I renewed the sump gasket seal about 12 months ago as it was leaking like a sieve since the day I picked it up from the previous owner. I used Permatex sealent (blue colour - about $40 a tube from supercheap) and it seals up 90% of it, but it stills slighty weaps at the rear of the sump. When I replaced the seal, I had both surfaces squeaky clean. I have renewed the sealant twice in the last 12 months and still the same leak appears in the same area.

Any secrets? Is there a different sealent that I should using?

Cheers
Andrew

[roverrescue]

Is it definately the sump leaking?
If the oil is collecting at the rear of the sump gasket in that groove between sump and flywheel it could be from a few places. Rear main, side of block running down?

I assume you degreased it and have seen the weep though.

Steve

[LOVEMYRANGIE]

Check the mating face of the sump. Quite often after being taken on and off a few times, the bolt holes start pulling into the gasket and you domt get a flat seal. With cork gaskets, it crushes it and squeezes it out to the side and the seal becomes ineffective regardless of what sealant you use. Rover sumps have a rib along the bolt pattern line supposedly to strengthen it but makes it harder over time and ends up crushing the gasket.
In the past on a different engine, I ended up malleting the face flat, cut 4mm steel to match the bolt pattern and had this welded to the sump on the outside so the bolts would spread the clamping pressure and not push thru the holes an spot crush the gasket.
I also find that the ACL aerosol Hylomar is one of the better sealants for cork and paper gaskets as a pre treater if you like. As it's so thin, it soaks into it quite quickly and after a few coats particularly on paper gaskets, it completely seals the gasket. You either then just put it straight on or use a thin film of an appropriate sealant to assemble.

Andrew


Sent from my backyard TeePee using smoke signals.

[rrturboD]

I had a sump that was leaking heaps, thought it was from the rear till I cleaned it all REAL well, removed fan, ran engine for 10 mins (vehicle stationary) and you could see the oil drips forming along the sides of the sump. (I reckon that the vehicle movement and fan was pushing it to the rear) Removed sump and discovered almost no sealant in places, the sump just fell off as I undid the bolts. In resealing, cleaned with carbi cleaner then applied little goop to block, and spread with scraper to ensure even spread, applied bead to sump, and put in place. Bolted up just a few of the bolts to finger tight. Left motor for a day (overnight probably enough) for the sealant to cure. Tightened up, and so far dry around the sump. I still have a couple of small leaks, one being rear main, so will nodoubt have an opportunity to try it all again when I take the gearbox off to fix that one. I used Wurth Super RTV-Silicon red.

[400HPONGAS]

Lovemyrangie , there is NO sump gasket or Rail gasket , as the manual says you use a healthy bead of silicon stuff like the silicon blue he used . Often its been overtightened , check for straightness .Prep both the Rail and the pan by wiping down with Thinners .

[LOVEMYRANGIE]

Lovemyrangie , there is NO sump gasket or Rail gasket , as the manual says you use a healthy bead of silicon stuff like the silicon blue he used . Often its been overtightened , check for straightness .Prep both the Rail and the pan by wiping down with Thinners .

Really, so what's the cork thing on my sump that was used to correct a constant weep that silicone alone wouldn't fix????? Oh yes, that's right, it's a cork gasket, sprayed in Hylomar. But I will openly admit that I don't have the extra rails on this one as I didn't need it.......

Just for clarity......


Sent from my backyard TeePee using smoke signals.

[rick130]

Could be buggered T seals on the rear main too.

On later 300Tdi's these were silicon injected in to the gaps under pressure, earlier engines used the T seals.
Not really sure what the fix is without pulling the engine :( (or ignoring it)

Karcraft have a sump gasket available, some workshops use it and claim success.

[86mud]

Hi all

I should have clarified - rear mains was done in September 2009. I do have a slight weep somewhere around the oil filter housing , but I don't think that it running down as the block is clean. It is a 1998 300tdi so one of the last.

I will pull it off again next oil change. Maybe I have overtightened it.

Should I try letting the silicone cure for a few minutes before I place the sump back and bolt on?

Cheers
Andrew

[wagoo]

To get a good seal using RTV sealants your sump flange should have a clean, paint free surface. That's right, buff the paint off the sump flange.
Wagoo.