351 ski boat, in salt water

[stig0000]

well i am buying a ski boat this week im hopping,, looking at one tomoz avo :D:D:D

the current 500 freedom sport with a 75 will be going,, been a great boat and never let us down, but im after a bit more go/pull and wake, oh and ofcouse that great v8 sound:wasntme:

but the closet dam we have is a hr away, so lately alot of the time we just go up the river witch is like 5 min drive, but its salt water, iv allways flushed our boat for a good 20-30 mins after each use and nothing has a hint of corrosion on it, i did a service on the boat for the first time instead of taking it to a shop and changed the thermo and gaskits, was very clean inside and was happy,, so my flushing has worked well

but that is a out borad boat that is ment to run in salt water,

im abit worryed about running the 351 in the salt, iv been told the sumps rust out prity qwick, id allways flush it like all hell but is it going to be enough and will it still rust out,, anyone elce run a ski boat in the salt waters

[ScottW]

It is possible to have it fitted with a heat exchanger. The set-up runs a closed cooling system running coolant but instead of a radiator, a heat exchange unit uses salt water to take the heat out of the coolant.

Do some research and ou will find that with the newer boats you have to replace the exhaust manifolds and a bunch of other parts every 2 years or so in salt.

[ramblingboy42]

the heat exchangers can also be found in plastic.....sounds crazy but theyre on a lot of boats..........

[stig0000]

this mite be the way to go,

so when ppl say the sump rusts out,,, as water will make its way inside the hull,, is it as the engine sits so low in the boat that if water is inside the water touches the sump ?

not much comes in but it still gets in there

[ScottW]

I haven't checked out any v8 ski boats, but I wouldn't think the engine would be that low.
Check out www.wake.com.au (http://wake.com.au/modules.php?name=Forums&file=viewforum&f=13) in the boat section and search on maintenance.

I'd think it's last of a good washdown that would cause the rump to rust. The head on my boat engine (3L 4 cyl mercruiser inboard) rusted through and became porous, along with the manifolds but the sump was fine. Hot salt water rusts things better than normal salt water.

[weeds]

this mite be the way to go,

so when ppl say the sump rusts out,,, as water will make its way inside the hull,, is it as the engine sits so low in the boat that if water is inside the water touches the sump ?

not much comes in but it still gets in there

hang out at a boat ramp and chat to the guys with older in boards to see what they do, the good thing about water sking is that you can easily strike a conversation about gear and equipment...........

if you are sking salt water all the time than i reckon outboards are the go or a modern marinised motor

my mates only had inboards and the saltiest water they would expose their boats to would be brisbane river around jindalee and up stream from grafton

[clubagreenie]

The inlaws have a v6 mercruiser sterndrive, bit different I know but, just after buying it it died and rather than listen spent a large fortune having it rebuilt. I managed to convince them to flush with the leg in a large plastic drum with a coolant/corosion inhibitor mixture. In the last 6 years they havent had to replace a hose or metal companent of the cooling system despite being told to replace the cooling manifolds every 2 years. I had them ultrasonically tested for thickness and they have lost less than 2mm over that time. Might be a bit hradfer to adapt to a full inboard but you should be able to do something.

[big guy]

I have a 1/3rd share in a Meos spider that is actually currently on Boatsales.com.

We flush our boat for 5 min after each outing, especially in salt water but if you also run in fresh water from time to time, have found that any residual salt will get well and truly flushed after a run in that.

My jet ski gets a good run in the ocean and we flush that super well.

Just have to calculate a certain amount each year for maintenance and you be fine.
Salt will get into everything though and not just the motor.
Fittings and wiring and submersible bilge pumps fail quickly due to the sand build up etc.

Best of luck and enjoy the ride.

[stig0000]

if i run a gut full of coolent thru it after each use to sorta make a layer wile its not been used,, i think that will help it out stop or slow down the rust, ???

[clubagreenie]

That's what we've been doing, we uise one of those 1000lt square drums with the top cut out.

[roverrescue]

Stig,
First with respect to sumps rusting - that is just what happens with inboards in salt water.
I think it is mostly because the sump is close to where the salt deposits down in the engine well.

No biggy, by the time the sump has rusted to the point of needing replacement you probably need to pull the donk for maintenance anyways and can bolt a new sump on. For a lot of common blocks you can buy trick SS316 sumps which may help in the long run.

With respect to running a non marineised engine is salt - I would avoid if at all possible.
Either set up a heat exchanger or do not to do it!!!!

For most ski boat engine bays a heat exchanger will not pose too many problems space wise. You already have a raw water intake and water pump, just need to plumb in a water to water cooler and you are away.

Have fun

Steve

[stig0000]

yer i think this maby be the go,

get to go see the first boat on wensday avo :D:D

[stig0000]

IV GOT A BOAT:D:D:D

finally found a ski boat that was all most 100% me,, its not a big bad v8 but a holden 6, so engine swap are in order, iv even considered rover v8 ;) but 351/350s are just way to easy and are allmost bolt in,, even just a 308 might be agoer,

anyway,, hopping to pick it up tomoz and take it for a spin see how she goses,

[mike 90 RR]

hopping to pick it up tomoz and take it for a spin see how she goses,

Congrats Stig, on the purchase :)

This boat is old and obviously an inboard .... When you launch it ... take the time to remove the "hood" and start the motor .... Inspect and look for any fuel leaks for about the first 5 minutes ...or till the motor has warmed

This is the most important thing to do every time you start it up after launching it (any motor actually)




1 fuel leak = "Kaboom" :twisted:


Also ..... replace all old rubber fuel lines ..... regardless of whether they leak or not


Cheers
Mike

[ScottW]

It is salt water cooled, of fresh? Drive it for a while before you jump on the bigger is better bandwagon. My boat was a fairly wide 19footer with a 4 cylinder inboard. We'd load it up and go wakeboarding and never needed more power.

[stig0000]

its cooled from out side water, so im going to hav to look at closed loop cooling,, looking at the options il prob go with just a 274? i think it is, its gota sligtly worked 186 in it atm, will deffs see how it gose first b4 i start riping things out,

all the fuel lines hav allready been replaced very risent, the guy had resepts for eveything, and the guy b4 him compleatly rebuilt it, down to bear hull,

im very happy with it and the price i payed for it, *coff coff* under 3k with full rego on boat and tralor:D:D:D

[big guy]

That sounds great, so why not just leave it as it is if it does what you need.

By the time you do another motor, shaft and re-prop with bigger rudder etc, it will probably cost you an arm and may not be worth more.

The 186 would be very good on fuel and if all work has been done, just enjoy.

Watch out for petrol fumes, they can go Kaboom very easily.

To do on board cooling means radiator, storage tanks etc.
Just run it how it is, many/most boats do and run just fine.

Just flush after very run.

Cheers

[stig0000]

first run went and stoped prity qwick,, the power side of the dog clutch has spun on the sharft,,, :mad: gota lift the engine and get that cover off and see what the go is, other then that looks great in the water:D:D im normaly to exited to take a pic so i must do

[Pedro_The_Swift]

yes you must.;):D

[Ace]

IV GOT A BOAT:D:D:D

No you dont, :rulez:

No pics means no boat :D

[big guy]

first run went and stoped prity qwick,, the power side of the dog clutch has spun on the sharft,,, :mad: gota lift the engine and get that cover off and see what the go is, other then that looks great in the water:D:D im normaly to exited to take a pic so i must do

That's no good mate.
remember dog clutches are very simple bits of gear--literally.
Make sure boat is just idleing when engaging. Never rev an ddrop or drag into gear.

Enjoy the ride and watch the fuel lines and fuel.;)

[Ace]

I feel that adequate time has passed for the addition of photos, yet I check the thread and no pretty coloured squares have appeared which resemble a boat. This simply isnt good enough :D

[stig0000]

this has gone to long,, had to get some pics of the old claka,,
we were pullen the engine up to find out that the keyway in the crank that would normaly hold the harmonic balencer has sherd inhalf just letten the clutch,

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2011/03/1069.jpg

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2011/03/1070.jpg

basicly its a 1988 clinker, with a (as it terns out) a slightly worked 186 red, came with a turbo set up that all bolts on,, and used a range rover carby of all carbys?? other then that im happy with it and will do me good ones the drive is sorted, :D:D

[d2dave]

first run went and stoped prity qwick,, the power side of the dog clutch has spun on the sharft,,, :mad: gota lift the engine and get that cover off and see what the go is, other then that looks great in the water:D:D im normaly to exited to take a pic so i must do

My first and only inboard boat I had did the same thing. It was a 308. The prop is connected to the front of the motor where the harmonic balancer would normaly be. The balancer is held in place by a woodruff key which was all that was used to drive the prop shaft.

I fixed this by drilling three holes and tapping a thread in the dog clutch. I also drilled a small amount into the crank and then locktighted grub screws to hold the dog clutch. This was a very successful repair.

Dave.

[stig0000]

well all is fixed, fixed with a new fabrocated keyway and clutch gear, and we allso put 2 little holes in the crank for the grubs,, re alinged the motor so its now running dead tru to the prop sharft, taken it out tomoz cant wate:D:D:D

will post a pic of it in the water,

[stig0000]

finaly, runs like a dream :D:D
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2011/03/924.jpg

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2011/03/925.jpg

[big guy]

Cool 1st boat mate.

Just a quick reminder having now witnessed 2 boat fires, put a distinguisher on drivers and passenger side and don't be afraid to use it.

Also, a good prop balance is a good investment especially over winterbreak whilst its not used any how. Or have 2 props one for skiing one for cruising(speed).

Happy boating.

[stig0000]

now that iv been out for a few runs in it ,, im loven the fuel comp, about 10Ls for a full day of hard going:D:D

all went well,, just 2 lil water leaks from the piping and pump,,,

and there was no real vibrations,,, so whats the advantages for getting the prop balanced, make the brass bushs last longer;) and a avg cost to get it done

[Ace]

Boat looks good. I wouldnt mind a ski boat but I dont live in an area with a climate that would allow me to get my money's worth out of it.

[rjmee]

hi stig,please contact me about your boat.its a beautiful FILAM:cool::cool::cool: ..........sorry to dig up old thread.