A/C compressor pulley doesn't turn - what's up

[canblogerra]

The pulley on my Disco II stock standard AC compressor (where the the fan belt runs) doesn't turn. I have the belt off. The pulley moves a degree or two and then goes clink up against something solid each way. The inner section of the pulley can be turned alright so the compressor hasn't siezed.

Couldn't see any loose bolt hanging out to obstruct anything but will have another feel round the pulley tomorrow. Just hate this crap. it's been so long I've been working on this TD5 and I've busted the port off the turbo vacuum activator do dah ... It'll give me nightmares.

Anything obvious or ideas anyone?

[rick130]

Pull the clutch, it sounds like a collapsed pulley bearing.

There are two ways to fix it, replace the whole clutch assy or remove and replace the bearing.
I've replaced the bearings on some older Sanden compressors but IIRC they aren't the easiest thing in the world to do.
You'll need some good circlip pliers, a press, mandrels, etc.

[canblogerra]

thanks Rick. Sounds like I've got some bearing to sort out but a collapsed clutch is difficult to picture - there are no drawings of how its configured. Can't quite see what the clutch could collapse on to stop turning but I'll be looking for it soon after lunch. Cheers again.

[Resection]

I recently repalced a dry, growling TD5 compressor hub bearing.
Not real hard considering the other challenges you seem to have overcome with this vehicle...

The bearing came from Ingram-Ashdown (Adelaide but lots of other branches across country). OEX brand, part number CLX410 "Clutch Bearing Common Japanese Clutch", OS diam52.1mm ID 29.0mm, 22mm wide. Was about $35 from memory. The complete clutch does not appear on this company's parts catalogue.

Grip the inner (compressor shaft) part of the pulley (I used oil-filter plier) and undo the bolt. Slide this part off the compressor's spline and do not lose the shim which sets the clearance between the clutch plates.
Remove circlip from the alloy nose of the compressor body and pull the outer (drivebelt) part with the bearing off the nose.
Support the clutch outer suitably (it looks to be easy to distort/ruin the clutch) and press the bearing out. It is peened in place but this can be overcome. I used a combination of sockets/tube and threaded rod to do this.
Refit the new bearing using sockets etc and peen into place with sharp centre-punch when fully seated.
Replace on compressor, I used Loctite on hub bolt BTW.

Hope this is helpful.
Jason

[LOVEMYRANGIE]

thanks Rick. Sounds like I've got some bearing to sort out but a collapsed clutch is difficult to picture - there are no drawings of how its configured. Can't quite see what the clutch could collapse on to stop turning but I'll be looking for it soon after lunch. Cheers again.

The pulley the belt runs on is free spinning on a bearing. The front face (hub) is the driveshaft into the compressor itself. If the pulley spins freely but the hub doesn't it may be a hub bearing but could also be the compressor itself damaged inside.
The hub drives a forward thrusting eccentric (reciprocating wobble plate..... Go figure...) inside that converts rotary motion into forward lateral motion to drive the pistons inside the compressor. If a pushrod has broken or the eccentric inner bearing has failed, it's basically not worth doing much with. New compressors aren't to badly priced these days.
Look up Cooldrive in the yellowpages, generally have a major distributor in each state plus the LR ones are fairly common unit. In most cases you get the same unit and just change over your compressor head.

Try this in Internet Explorer (think it still works but I don't use IE anymore)
http://www.sanden-europe.fr/Movie/VideoCompressorPXE-eng.htm

For a factory Sanden manual, try this.

http://www.pirate4x4.com/tech/billavista/PDFs/New%20Jun%202003/Sanden%20SD%20compressor%20service%20manual.pdf

Not the actual factual as I think this cattledog is for a different model range but you get the idea.

Cheers

Andrew


Sent from my backyard TeePee using smoke signals.

[LOVEMYRANGIE]

Just re read the post.... DOH!!!


Sent from my backyard TeePee using smoke signals.

[canblogerra]

Appologies for not updating generous helpers earlier on outcome, especially Resection for the full parts research details.

As it happens I got down to pulling out the circlip which remained unreasonably stubborn when I sensed some increased movement in the pulley. Spraying with copious quantities of WD40 and forcing the pulley movement back and forth it eventually got to turning.

I put it all back together but the noise suggests to me I'll be back - within 10000km probably. I'll order Resection's bearing ready for the job when it eventuates ...

Thanks all again for your advice

[one_iota]

This might not be applicable to the D2 however on my D1 when the bearing seized the auxiliary belt broke and severed the wiring to the clutch. Fortunately there was just enough length left on the clutch side to be able to splice the wires.

So I would be replacing the bearing now if this is likely to happen.