PDA

View Full Version : Pitted head on my Rolls.



Chomby
22nd February 2011, 02:28 PM
I have had issues with loss of water and fine bubbles in the radiator. Assuming it was a head gasket I bought a new gasket and got started on disassembly today. Attached is a shot of the gasket with a clear gap between the combustion chamber and the water channel on the top right. Also a shot of the head with minor pitting.

I'm trying to keep this cheap as I'm putting a 4age motor in eventually and only need this motor running until I find time to fix my Series Landrovers tcase. So I don't really wanna get work done to the head professionally. I'm wondering is there a way to patch the pitting by means of solder or weld.

bee utey
22nd February 2011, 03:38 PM
To fill the pit you need to go back to bare metal. It may be too late to do a cheapie repair as cleaning the pit will be deeper than it looks. Solder is useless, it will melt quite quickly.

Some time ago I rescued a slightly corroded Mercedes 250 head by tapping a small screw into a pitted area after countersinking the thread hole, then shaving the screw head until it tightened up flush with the face. AFAIK the engine is still going 5 years later.

In any case a head face may rescue the surface if you are lucky.

eddy
24th February 2011, 10:52 AM
An old Jag trick to overcome minor imperfections was to use something like Permatex Copper Spray a Gasket, a high temp sealant.
Could be worth a try?

Chomby
24th February 2011, 11:06 AM
Thanks for your responses. Took it to pro-port who said welding it was possible but would require disassembly and planing afterwards, costing up to $350 just for that. Bit the bullet and bought a head from the wreckers $50. All back together waiting for a mate to bring a torque wrench. No visible pitting on the new one and the engine was complete in the wrecked car so hopefully it was running right when it crashed! Thanks again for your input. Hopefully it'll run tonight :)

Shonky
25th February 2011, 08:49 AM
Pics of the Roller? :D

Scouse
25th February 2011, 09:40 AM
Pics of the Roller? :DHe said Rolls, not Roller.

Rolls as in "Rolls Canardly" I think ;)

Chomby
25th February 2011, 09:42 AM
He said Rolls, not Roller.

Rolls as in "Rolls Canardly" I think ;)

Hahaha ;)

Chomby
25th February 2011, 09:45 AM
Eventually it'll have a 5spd and a 4age. I'm also considering locking the rear. But of course most importantly is a paint job and some nice mags

Chomby
25th February 2011, 10:29 AM
Got the head torqued and the thing just does not fire. The valves are clearly opening and closing around the spark but it's just not starting. Trying to throw a bit of fuel at a time in the carby but not helping. Noticed that the mixture screw on the head side was snapped off by previous owner but was okay before I took off the head so that's not such a problem. Suggestions?

Chomby
25th February 2011, 12:56 PM
Got it running (barely: it stills when i put it in drive) gonna go get the carby from the wreckers

bee utey
25th February 2011, 02:38 PM
You've probably upset the ignition timing by bumping the distributor, or some of your valve clearances are wrong.

Chomby
25th February 2011, 04:14 PM
Been fiddling with the dizzy all day. Can't set it properly cause I don't have a timing light and I can't get it to idle properly without the choke. It's currently set at the only point I could get it to start on. It seems like the 3rd cylinder isn't firing even though it's got spark, I can take out 3rd lead and it doesn't affect the lumpiness of the idle

bee utey
25th February 2011, 04:26 PM
But what about the valve clearances? I take it it's a 4K-C motor, and it has screw adjusters for the clearances.

Chomby
25th February 2011, 04:30 PM
(yes 4kc) Still gotta get around to it. Never done valve clearance before so not really sure how it works. Haven't got a manual for the 4k yet but it should the same procedures as in the 6cyl Lr manual shouldn't it (both push rod) Obviously measurements will be different.

bee utey
25th February 2011, 04:43 PM
(yes 4kc) Still gotta get around to it. Never done valve clearance before so not really sure how it works. Haven't got a manual for the 4k yet but it should the same procedures as in the 6cyl Lr manual shouldn't it (both push rod) Obviously measurements will be different.

Hey it's easy as. And absolutely necessary!!!

Set each cylinder to TDC firing for that cylinder (rotor button points to lead for that cyl) in order of firing order 1-3-4-2, Set inlet clearance to 8 thou (0.008"/0.20mm) and exhaust to 12 thou (0.012"/0.30mm) and it will run.

Chomby
25th February 2011, 04:47 PM
Cool! Time to borrow a feeler gauge methinks

Chomby
25th February 2011, 07:09 PM
Hey it's easy as. And absolutely necessary!!!

Set each cylinder to TDC firing for that cylinder (rotor button points to lead for that cyl) in order of firing order 1-3-4-2, Set inlet clearance to 8 thou (0.008"/0.20mm) and exhaust to 12 thou (0.012"/0.30mm) and it will run.

Are those clearances after the engine warms up?

bee utey
25th February 2011, 07:33 PM
Are those clearances after the engine warms up?

They are hot clearances but do them to that spec cold, recheck when hot. Then check them again after you have been for a decent run.

Chomby
26th February 2011, 09:06 AM
Thanks very much mate, didn't expect it to make such a difference. Its running amazingly now. Time to put a timing light on it and some new electrics!

Chomby
26th February 2011, 01:08 PM
Hmm, the mess of lines coming from the carby is concerning. Repco and supercheap didn't have a manual for the ke70. I know it's a long shot but does anyone know which lines are important? Obviously the vacuum advance line is but all the rest seem to have nowhere important to go..