Discovery2 Safari Snorkel Install

[999]

Well I went to the Victorian 4WD show last weekend (what a great day) anyway I ended up coming home with a safari snorkel.

The plan was to do the install this weekend and I was lucky, the weather was fine. During the week i had to purchase a few extra tools & material that I needed.
70mm hole saw
stepped drill bit set
Cutting compound
3mm Self adhesive closed cell foam

I already had:
Permanent Marker
Masking Tape
Hole Punch
Hammer
Electric Drill
Dremel
Sikaflex 11FC
Caulking Gun
T25 torx bit
Phillips & Flat Head Drivers
Jack & Axle Stand
Carnuba Wax Polish
Rivet Gun
4mm Drill Bit
Acetone
10mm &13mm sockets and spanners

Make sure you check that all the components, and you have the correct template in your box.
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2011/02/48.jpg (http://s204.photobucket.com/albums/bb241/2000cats/Temp/?action=view&current=D2thebox.jpg)https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2011/02/49.jpg (http://s204.photobucket.com/albums/bb241/2000cats/Temp/?action=view&current=D2Inthebox.jpg)https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2011/02/50.jpg (http://s204.photobucket.com/albums/bb241/2000cats/Temp/?action=view&current=D2Template1.jpg)
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2011/02/51.jpg

So first up was to take the car for run with the Nanocom Evo set to record the Pre Install TD5 Data
I'll post the Pre and Post numbers at the end of this post.

Here's my D2 Before the install
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2011/02/52.jpg

After the run it was time to start the job.
The first thing today was remove the front left wheel and get the truck onto a axle stand. Pretty straight forward.
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2011/02/53.jpg (http://s204.photobucket.com/albums/bb241/2000cats/Temp/?action=view&current=D2onstands.jpg)
Remove the Inner Guard liner you will need the T25 torx a Phillips Head driver and I Flattened a Triple Grip to pry the Plastic clips out. There was one casualty. You also get to see how much dirt is built up in you guard.
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2011/02/54.jpg (http://s204.photobucket.com/albums/bb241/2000cats/Temp/?action=view&current=D2InnerGuardclips.jpg)
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2011/02/55.jpg (http://s204.photobucket.com/albums/bb241/2000cats/Temp/?action=view&current=D2dirt.jpg)

Now remove the airbox
Disconnect the vacuum line, air temp sender (I think that's what it is) and MAF. Pull the box straight up It takes bit of effort.
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2012/04/713.jpg

Attach the template to the left front quarter panel with some masking tape, line the top of the template with the top edge of the guard and the right edge with right end of the guard.
I checked and tripled checked that I had placed the template in the correct position. You will also notice that a buckle will form in the template, I just made sure the buckle did not occur where I needed to mark the hole and stud locations.
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2011/02/56.jpg
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2011/02/57.jpg
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2011/02/58.jpg

Once your satisfied mark the locations to drill with a permanent marker.
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2011/02/59.jpg
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2011/02/60.jpg

Remove the template but leave in a handy location
Now where about to embark on the point of no return. Grab your hammer and punch set them next to your truck and wait for the butterflies (I took this opportunity to have a cigarette, read the instructions again, consult the internet and offer up that template again to quadruple check that the hole locations on in the correct spot )
Took me a good 10 min before a actually started to mark each drill location with the punch.
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2011/02/61.jpg

We're now ready to drill our pilot holes I used a 3mm bit for this with a dab of cutting fluid.
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2011/02/62.jpg









https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2011/02/63.jpg

Once the pilots are drilled grab the stepped bit (the safari instruction sheet says to open the stud mounting holes to 16mm) after a bit of research, many people had said this was unnecessary. I decided to open the holes up to a 1/2 inch (12mm). Don't be to shy with the cutting fluid.
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2011/02/64.jpg
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2011/02/65.jpg
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2011/02/66.jpg

The butterflies have disappeared now, it's time the use the 70mm hole saw. I recommend a third hand for dripping the cutting fluid while you drill, so I asked my partner to give me a chop out, she was not impressed with the cutting fluid that sprayed onto her top as I drilled. (Be warned)
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2011/02/67.jpg
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2011/02/68.jpg

Now Mark between the two 70mm holes with a straight edge grab the dremel and cut to the lines.
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2011/02/69.jpg
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2011/02/70.jpg
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2011/02/71.jpg

While the power tools are out mark and drill the hole for the Cast metal inlet piece also drill the casting use a 4mm bit (I had to relocate my PAS/Ace reservoir)to get the drill in
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2016/08/665.jpg

Clean up all edges with a file and dremel, the stepped drill holes will need minimal work. You definitely want the large oval shaped hole to have no sharp edges as we'll be sticking our hands in there later. Also give all exposed metal a coat of paint (I just used what ever I had which was Rust Guard Metal Primmer)

Fix all the studs to the snorkel with loctite.
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2011/02/72.jpg

Now we can test fit the snorkel. Whoo hoo all good.
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2011/02/73.jpg

Now borrow your partners nail polish remover (acetone) and clean up all the areas that will need to be sikaflexed
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2011/02/74.jpg
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2016/08/666.jpg

This is also the last chance to get a coat of wax on your duco, because you wont be able to remove the snorkel easily once the sikaflex goes off.
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2011/02/75.jpg

I decided to use 3mm self-adhesive closed cell foam to seal the the airbox inlet to the snorkel on the engine bay side. (not sure how water tight it is yet) But I definitely don't want to sikaflex it yet.
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2011/02/76.jpg
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2011/02/77.jpg
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2011/02/78.jpg

Time to Sikaflex. Fix the cast inner guard bracket with a rivet (Tip from when I did glazing, use morning fresh to skim excess and smooth the finish) I skimmed all excess sika from the inside of the intake housing with my finger (use a latex glove)and watered morning fresh
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2011/02/79.jpg
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2011/02/80.jpg
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2011/02/81.jpg

Now get a good bead of Sikaflex onto the snorkel end. I pre-cleaned this with acetone as well. And bolt the snorkel to the guard but don't torque the nuts up yet.
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2011/02/82.jpg
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2011/02/83.jpg

Fit the upper section of the snorkel to the upper front window frame use the bolts supplied to fix the bracket to the snorkel and a 4mm drill bit to rivet the bracket to the frame.
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2011/02/84.jpg

Now we're almost done, time to prepare and reinstall the airbox. Sikaflex any potential water ingress locations, Duckbill, inlet pipe, porous inlet pipe piece.
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2011/02/85.jpg
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2011/02/86.jpg
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2011/02/87.jpg
Air box installation is just a reversal of the removal
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2012/02/1.jpg

Torque up all nuts and bolts, reinstall the inner guard cover, pack up your tools and admire your work.
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2011/02/88.jpg
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2011/02/89.jpg
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2011/02/90.jpg
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2011/02/91.jpg

I'm stoked at how the installation turned out.

Here's some data after the trucks been warmed up, accelerating up an incline with a heavy foot.
Pre Snorkel Install
Ambient temp 26deg
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2011/02/92.jpg

Post Snorkel Install
Ambient temp 29deg
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2011/02/93.jpg

It took me around 5 hrs to do the install. Now what else do I need.:D

Template and Instructions Can be found here http://www.aulro.com/afvb/local_links.php?action=jump&catid=7&id=170
Please check scale and check against snorkel prior to drilling.

[Bundalene]

Well done, professional install and excellent write up.


I note Safari have improved their Disco snorkel with a single piece going between the outer guard and the inner guard, making sealing far more positive.


Erich

[999]

I note Safari have improved their Disco snorkel with a single piece going between the outer guard and the inner guard, making sealing far more positive.


Erich

Thanks for the comment.
So the new design does away with the cast inner guard adapter yeh?

With the amount I sika I used I think the sealing will be fine. I'll pressure test the seals when I get a chance.

[clubagreenie]

Is there potential for using retained nuts and csk socket screws on the A pillar attachment?

[999]

Is there potential for using retained nuts and csk socket screws on the A pillar attachment?

I don't see any reason why you could not use a rivnut. The Rivets are quite easy to remove though, just drill'em out if you need to remove the bracket.

[madtom]

Nice and usefull for me - have one to mount on my car.
Screws instead rivnuts for holding the upper part of snorkel are a bit better in case of changing of front window. Also the original plastic rivnuts are not the best solution, I'll replace them with screws also.

[banarcus]

A very nice neat job. What did the disco feel like from the drivers seat? Did it feel like it revved cleaner and quicker, better on fuel etc? This is one of the jobs on my list in the near future so thanks for putting this up and sharing it. Just a word of warning with the small cut off Dremel discs though, they clog up when used on aluminium and can explode.

[999]

A very nice neat job. What did the disco feel like from the drivers seat? Did it feel like it revved cleaner and quicker, better on fuel etc? This is one of the jobs on my list in the near future so thanks for putting this up and sharing it. Just a word of warning with the small cut off Dremel discs though, they clog up when used on aluminium and can explode.

I don't notice any difference in how the engines revs. I think the quality of diesel makes the most difference in how my engine performs.

And yes dremel cutoff discs do explode, always wear safety glasses.

[3 Lions]

Good job!!
I did my V8 Disco 2 a few years back, can't remember what Sika Flex I used though.
I have just ordered a Safari Snorkel for my new Defender TD5, so I will be fitting one again in the next week or two.:D

Col.

[rosco114]

Just fitted my safari using this thread - have to say a big thank you.:D

[clubagreenie]

Just coming back to this since I just got a second hand snorkel to fir up. 70mm seems very large for the holes. The width of the section on the snorkel is no where near that.

[rosco114]

It does seem big but it's correct. The 'tube' fitting through the guard tapers - it's wider on the body than the 'nose' piece that fits through the inner guard. You need a little wiggle room to line it up too. 70 mm it is!

[clubagreenie]

Thanks, good to clarify, also do you open up the hole in the inner guard at all? I have the "**** template" that's been through a couple of hands along with a copy of the install instructions that aren't too clear. There's a step down between the adaptor and original fitting other wise but that probably exists regardless doesn't it.

[Megathumper]

I was wondering if there was any particular version of Sikaflex to use?

On another install posting it mention using a MAF Sensor friendly sealant.

[clubagreenie]

Sikaflex is an inert sealant by comparison to silcones so seal away. Just be aware that it's a bitch to clean up and to later remove anything stuck down with it.

[999]

Thanks, good to clarify, also do you open up the hole in the inner guard at all? I have the "**** template" that's been through a couple of hands along with a copy of the install instructions that aren't too clear. There's a step down between the adaptor and original fitting other wise but that probably exists regardless doesn't it.

I never opened up the inner guard, wasn't mentioned in the safari instructions either.

[gravity129]

Thanks for this post. It prompted me to finally get to installing my snorkel, a clone from Direct 4x4 in SA.

The cheaper snorkel probably needed more fiddling than the genuine one but it is a reasonable quality. The template was close to accurate but two of the holes did require adjustment with a rat tail file. The end of the snorkel did also require slight shortening.

As most of my jobs are completed in the middle of the night the use of a Dremel was not an option, but a good result was achieved with aviation snips. Centre to centre cut first and then narrow strips to avoid panel distortion.

To avoid relocating the reservoir I chose a small drill. The air drill was not an option (noise again) but the Bosch IXO with fine bit fitted easily.

I note that neither the Sika 11FC nor the recommended Sika 227 are listed by Sika as adhering to polyethylene. I would be interested in others experiences.

Thanks again

Richard

[Chrisinhouston]

This is a great write up and pretty much how I did my installation although I realized later that that the supplied cloth/fiber connection hose just under the hood really needs better sealing and did it later on.

It takes a bit of nerve when you start drilling holes in the fender, I was reminded of what my uncle who was a cabinet maker used to say, "Measure twice, cut once".:cool:

[clubagreenie]

To seal the cloth duct just coat the thing in siliastic. I just squirted it straight out of the nozzle onto the surface in a continuous stream. Them spray with windex/spray"n"wipe or the like and wrap in glad wrap also sprayed. Wait about half and hour and the silastic will just start to skin, at that point by hand under the silastic wipe across it so that it's completely covering it leaving no gaps. Wait about another 15 min and remove the glad wrap, if it has stuck anywhere don't worry, just spray more and use your finger to smooth out. You can get a really smooth finish. I know you don't see it but you can fil all the crevices and make it watertight.

[LOVEMYRANGIE]

Old post now but I'm still at a loss as to why they need the cast adaptor when it quite easily could have been moulded it as one piece to the inner fender.
The adaptor footprint is smaller than the hole you cut into the outer fender so theres no problem fitting it thru and it removes the one weak spot in the snorkel in an area where its the hardest to seal and most likely place to suck water and dust in still.

Ive contemplated pulling mine out and having a fab job done...

[dwarfmarine]

I have a question about a snorkel install on my D2

Just ordered and picked up a genuine Safari.
I note someone mentioned they changed the design to a one piece?
My snorkel (P/n: SS395HF) is still 2 piece with the cast inner inlet.

My two questions though, did the cast inner adapter come pre drilled? (As mine isn't)

And, with the air box, did you all fill the drain point with silicon/sealant?
(I note there is another small hole which I'll fill, but I'm referring to the larger drain plug with the rubber cap)
I'm using SikaFlex Auto+ for sealant

[ozscott]

So from what I can tell from the table the Safari does reduce air flow???...

Cheers

[Battler]

So is there any benefit of fitting one?

[ozscott]

Water crossings and cleaner air when on fast dirt roads...not so much cooler air for D2 at least because it fees from outside the engine bay.

Cheers

Ps. I dont want one if my 4.6 starves a little.

[Disco Muppet]

Must do, when fitting a VNT turbo they mention that the snorkel robs a bit of air.
To be honest I think they're worth the very minor performance loss, I certainly didn't notice any change when line was fitted, and the water I've driven has sure made me grateful for it.
However, the question 'is there any benefit to fitting one' seems a little silly to me.
Every modification or accessory is going to be a compromise of sorts.
I'd rather a minor performance drop than a motor full of water.

Sent from my HTC One using AULRO mobile app

[Tombie]

So from what I can tell from the table the Safari does reduce air flow???...

Cheers

You'd make a good government statistician :cool:

The AF readings will depend on terrain, throttle and load...

(in several points there the AF post snorkel exceeds pre-snorkel levels at similar RPM..)

[ozscott]

You'd make a good government statistician :cool:

The AF readings will depend on terrain, throttle and load...

(in several points there the AF post snorkel exceeds pre-snorkel levels at similar RPM..)

Yes I saw that mate - and there is not a completely consistent RPM between each table. What was your take on your vehicles that have had them Tombie?

Cheers

[Battler]

A few months ago I bought a snorkel for my D2.

Started the install and when I was taking out the air intake box I couldn't see how I could seal it to be waterproof. I was also worried about the joins. I figured I could test it though by covering up the snorkel and if the engine dies all good.

All this thinking stimulated the brain and it occurred to me I've got electric seats, heated seats, a CD changer under the driver's seat and SLS. Which I believe are much lower than the engine air intake. Also the BCU hangs down a fair bit. So before I went any further with the install I looked up the wading depth of a standard D2 and found this:

The maximum advisable wading depth is 20 inches (0,5 m).
Severe electrical damage may occur if the vehicle remains stationary for any length of time when the water level is above the door sills.

I could go a bit deeper as mine is lifted and on 32's. But the snorkel is still in the garage.

So to me, asking if there is any benefit to fitting a snorkel is not a silly question.

I'm no expert and everything I've said above could be completely wrong.

[Disco Muppet]

You can relocate the auto ECU which is under the passenger seat up higher without any issues. I've removed my cd player, but it is on legs, and if water is at the level of the BCU, your car is going to have more water in it than out.
That said, I know plenty of people who have taken water into the cabin to the point that it's splashing the pedals when they're pressed and they've never had issues.
However if you're going that deep, I'd be more worried about the several thousand dollar engine than the $50 CD player...

Sent from my HTC One using AULRO mobile app

[Disco Muppet]

Let me put it another way.
From a wading perspective, if you don't intend to go deeper than the official wading depth, a snorkel will probably be more peace of mind. However, I found with mine it meant the air filters were far cleaner at the end of their service interval.
If you like to play outside what land rover says is appropriate, you're going to get benefit from a snorkel :cool:

Sent from my HTC One using AULRO mobile app

[ozscott]

My stacker is no longer used. I will get around to removing it one day. I have a manual. I used to have stock seats but now have electric leathers...however with even the stock diffs and box breathers i am confident that they happily wade deeper. I have had in crossings where water has come over the bonnet and down the side of the A Pillars....and that was correct sp?ed with a bow wave just formed nicely, not racing through. The system of pulling in air from the inner guard, convoluted path etc all conspire to give it much higher wading depth than the manual says, in terms of the motor. Coil packs and alternator are up in the valley height for the v8, and tbe bosch system has much more punch than the old lucas systems.

I have also sealed up the gaps between the rubber seal ends with a bit of clear silicon so it keeps water out pretty well.

A snorkel would bring piece of mind however if the vehicle stopped mid crossing and the water could wind its way into the air intake without a (properly fitted..) snorkel.

I can go about another 3 inches over stock anyway due to lift and larger tyres.

Cheers

[ozscott]

This is interesting - but probably not comparable given what appears to be a significant size difference in the stock intake and the Safari snorkel for the Prado appears to have a much bigger intake (round) hole to cut into the guard than the oblong one for D2.

Cheers

Welcome to Land Cruiser Owners On Line (http://www.lcool.org/technical/120_series/snorkel/snorkel_performance.html)

[clubagreenie]

That comes down to the shape of the entry into the airbox in the D2. It's oval, there's an adaptor that fits over the cutout through the inner guard and attaches to the same points as the flexible part form the airbox to the guard. This flexible part needs top be sealed with siliastic as well to be watertight. Just coat, spray liberally with windex and smooth with fingers.

[999]

I've just found a copy of the install papers and tracing of the template on an old laptop HDD and uploaded them the files section.

http://www.aulro.com/afvb/local_links.php?action=jump&catid=7&id=170

Please check scale and check against snorkel prior to drilling.:D

[PSI250]

Just saying thanks as I installed a new safari on my d2a today using these instuctions as well as safari's.

One thing for any new players, check the supplied template on the snorkel first. Mine was out a bit, I guess that's why they get you to go to 16mm on a hole for a 10mm stud! As per OP I only went to about 12-13mm.

When sealing the airbox there is a little square hole on the bottom just Infront of the water trap, don't forget about that.

Although its not required and probably didn't make any differance I opened up the inner panel slightly to match the snorkel inlet as it was slightly off center.
Another thing I noticed is the snorkel head sits up quite high ( compared to others ), if I noticed this before I fitted everything else up I probably would have cut 10-15mm out of the top of the snorkel body to try get it a bit lower and streamlined but that's just me being picky!

All in all an easy job with the instructions in this thread, attacking the 1/4 panel with a 70mm holesaw is a little daunting at first haha.

Have a safari snorkel template in SE suburbs VIC if anyone ever needs to borrow.

Weighing in to the "do you need one argument" if your going near water I would.
I believe it would easily be possible to get water up to the factory intake without it getting into the car and compromising other electronics, well unless your "dead in the water"

[igould]

While the power tools are out mark and drill the hole for the Cast metal inlet piece also drill the casting use a 4mm bit (I had to relocate my PAS/Ace reservoir)to get the drill in
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2016/08/665.jpg

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2016/08/666.jpg


Do you have to remove the PAS/Ace reservoir? It looks like you can drill it out through the oval hole on the outside?
Or am I misreading it?

Ian

[999]

The ps and ace reservoir is easy to move to the side you don't need to disconnect it

Sent from my Nexus 4 using AULRO mobile app