Exhaust wrap (110 2001 TD5)

[scott oz]

The question has been touched on in another thread about the effectiveness of exhaust wraps in aiding in the lowering of cabin temperatures on another thread.

I’ve searched the web & forum and the information, it seems on the “performance” side opinions on the benefits are split. However on radiant heat protection it seems there is general agreement that exhaust wraps are an effective way of keeping temperatures down under the bonnet and hence the cabin in 110’s case.

There are an array of prices and products and I was wondering if anyone had advise on which is the best product to use.

This is the link to an Australian supplier

http://shop.rocketindustries.com.au/products/TT11002 (http://shop.rocketindustries.com.au/products/TT11002)

Searching the web prices for the 100ft wrap even including postage is abut 40% cheaper in the US and they refer to Generation 11 Thermotec

Appreciate any advice. Thanks

[ashhhhh]

Ive used that exact product on a motorbike I used to own.
The pipes ran right under your right leg and the shield was missing.
After wrapping you could touch the headers, even after a hard ride.

It is often blamed for rusting out headers though, if its left damp.
I just made sure to run the bike for a while after a wash/rain etc - never had a problem.

You need to make sure you get it very tightly wrapped though or it comes undone, I had to take the headers off to do it properly, I would expect the same on a car.

Looks cool too.. :cool:

[blackbuttdisco]

I once wrapped the exhaust on a Series 3 diesel. When I unwrapped it to work on it 4years later, it had rusted faster than it had done out in the paddock where it had been for 10years. Never again.

[spudboy]

I have thought about this as an alternative:

KBS Heat Paint (http://www.kbs-coatings.com.au/KBS-Hi-Temp-Paint_p_45.html)


•Withstands continuous temperature of up to 812°C
•Outstanding heat and weathering resistance
•Will not peel, flake, or chalk
•Long Lasting
•Dries to touch in 15 mins
•Resistant to scratching & marring
•Reduces underhood temperatures & reduces exhaust manifold surface temperatures
•Improve exhaust gas velocity which increase Horse Power
•Can be brushed or sprayed
•Resists Rust

[incisor]

I once wrapped the exhaust on a Series 3 diesel. When I unwrapped it to work on it 4years later, it had rusted faster than it had done out in the paddock where it had been for 10years. Never again.

my experience was the exact opposite.. on several vehicles ranging from a series with holden motor thru to disco and 110 with 300tdi and 4bd1 donks.

i just used 50mm x 3mm fibreglass wrap in a 50% overlap so that i was in effect getting a 6mm wrap.

i do it to every vehicle i get, except the vw i just bought, because it has stainless steel pipes and wrapping stainless pipes will kill them.

gets rid of a lot of heat and kills a bucketload of noise.

[CJT]

I personally would get the headers heat coated.

I receieved a quote last week for a set of Pacemaker Extractors triple coated inside and out for $360.

The claim is a 30% - 40% reduction in temperature.

The other bonus is they should stay rust free.

[beastie]

I have had my extractors ceramic coated on the inside and outside, they were second hand and have come really well.
There is a mob in Castlemaine who have been doing it for years and have some good insights into this type of work.
It also gives good corrosion protection.
any how it's a thought you may like to follow up

[slug_burner]

I have had my extractors ceramic coated on the inside and outside, they were second hand and have come really well.
There is a mob in Castlemaine who have been doing it for years and have some good insights into this type of work.
It also gives good corrosion protection.
any how it's a thought you may like to follow up

How many beer tokens?

[scott oz]

Thanks all and keep it coming.

While I know coatings and in particular the ceramic are very good they are expensive and more preformance & visual (IMHO).

The "Wrap" at first glance seems to be a cost effective solution for simply reducing heat in the cabin.

[bob10]

Went to HPC. [ High Performance Coatings ] Hinkler court Brendale,Brisbane, was quoted $250 to coat my d2 td5 exhaust manifold. They guarantee 30% reduction in under bonnet temps..[ Not sure if that is with the turbo and exhaust piping done, thinking about it] Their head office is 6 Watson Rd. industrial park, Leongatha, Vic. Apparently the go is to go them for best price. Bob [ They also coat piston crowns, and piston skirts]

[rick130]

OK, things seem to be getting a little confused.

Cast iron shouldn't be wrapped, it'll crack.

Yes, race cars wrap turbo manifolds, a 4WD isn't a race car.
If you want to coat a cast iron manifold, use HPC, Jet Hot, Swain Tech, etc paint/ceramic coatings. They don't retain near as much heat as the silica based wraps.



As Inc said, wrapping the exhaust system from the dump pipe to the t/case definitely reduces felt temps in the cabin on a Defender.
As stated in the other thread, mines been in place on a heavily tweaked 300Tdi 3" system for years, and the wrap is still fine.

[Ranga]

my experience was the exact opposite.. on several vehicles ranging from a series with holden motor thru to disco and 110 with 300tdi and 4bd1 donks.

i just used 50mm x 3mm fibreglass wrap in a 50% overlap so that i was in effect getting a 6mm wrap.

i do it to every vehicle i get, except the vw i just bought, because it has stainless steel pipes and wrapping stainless pipes will kill them.

gets rid of a lot of heat and kills a bucketload of noise.
Is this just regular stuff from supercheap? Remember the brand?

[incisor]

Is this just regular stuff from supercheap? Remember the brand?

i buy mine from autobarn and it is the white stuff.

[Ranga]

i buy mine from autobarn and it is the white stuff.

I had a look this morning. The only stuff they had was white webbing/cloth looking tape, and was $54 a roll! Is this the stuff you used?

[130man]

Hi Ranga, what I have purchased from Autobarn is called "Coolit Thermotec" exhaust insulating wrap P/N 11002 [2"x50'].$96 IIRC.They had to order it in from Rocket Industries.Been busy so haven't made the time to install yet..It is not fibreglass as that doesn't cope with the max. temps that the exhaust can reach when the vehicle is working hard.Claims to contain no asbestos or carcinogens but doesn't actually say what it is made from.My understanding is that it is a silica based product.Hope this helps.Cheers, 130man.

[incisor]

yep, that is what i get from them..

i usually do from the bottom of the manifold thu to the rear of the transfer case.

[richard4u2]

what i did for my old rrc (85) got hold of one of those camping mats they are about 2'6" wide and about 6' long and about 1/4" thick . pulled up the carpet and layed it on the floor and up over the centre etc especialy under the dash . layed 2 strips along side of each other and now the carpet is cool to touch on a hot day

[scott oz]

OK

I put the exhaust wrap on over the weekend and have now taken it for a couple of drives including this morning into the city. Certainly makes it a lot cooler inside. Mind you the outside temp is also down.

So my initial impression is that the wrap certainly reduces cabin temp.

I used a 100ft roll and did from the engine pipe all the way back to the last flange (back door). Note I dont have a cat converter or center muffler.

[130man]

Hi Scott, glad to hear that you got the tape installed and that it is making a difference. Did you buy locally or import from the USA? Did you install it while the exhaust was on the vehicle or did you take the pipes off? I have yet to install mine as my weekends have been fully booked recently.Has there been any noticeable difference in noise levels? Cheers, 130man.

[scott oz]

130man,

At the end I went for a local product I'll try and find the name and post it later.

I went for the volcanic rock impregnated wrap not sure it makes any difference as the cheaper wrap had the same spec’s. For that matter all the wraps seemed to have the same spec's

The price variation between suppliers for the thermotec varied considerably and very few of the sellers had any knowledge of the product except what they could read on the box.

I ordered the 100ft (30mts) role as I wished to reduce the heat past my belly tanks and also the transfer case which I had just put a “sump” on and that came within about 6 inches of the exhaust.

My brother and I put the wrap on without removing the exhaust. The wrap itself is a rather fragile weave and frays relatively easily. So if you're on your back pulling it over the exhause you need to make sure you don't catch any bolts or rub across the wrap itself,

We started at the last flange at the rear (about level with back door 110) wrapping towards the front this had the advantage that the wraps faced backwards. Wrapping from the front means the wraps will face the wind/crap blowing under the Def.

We also wet the wrap as we installed which apparently gives a tighter fit once it dries. We also cut the wrap at the joining flange rather than attempt wrapping over it. We also used SS hose clamps as we couldn't get the supplies SS ties to tighten correctly?

We overlapped the wrap 50% which was recommended hence why I used all bar abut 4 feet. But I was doing a long length

If I were to do it again I think I would remove the engine pipe as it is a very tight fit between the chaise rail and the exhaust from the first exhaust hanger and up into the engine bay.

Overall I think in the long run it would be quicker and a lot easier to get a consistent wrap. Also from what I gather “all” the wraps are a impregnated fibreglass base product.

As said earlier I used SS hose clams to ensure we got a good clamping at the start and finish of each run and also around each hanger. I also put a clamp at the top of the fist bend and then at the start of the straight run heading back. In total used abut 12 claims to insure the wrap will not “un”wrap.

[130man]

Thanks, Scott. That's a very comprehensive answer. I had assumed starting at the front but that is a good point about which way the wrap faces. Following on advice from Rick130, I have already purchased the SS hose clamps.Have you noticed any sound reduction? Cheers, 130man.

[scott oz]

130man

No no didn't notice any noise reduction but will be more attentive to noise on tomorrows run.

I know some of the install instructions recomend starting at the manifold/engine pipe and work back. This could however be because judging how much to use could be difficult

[130man]

HI Scott. Good point about the length required.I can't do the job for another 2 weeks so I will see how it goes then.Cheers, 130man.

[scott oz]

130man,

Just did the city run and yes I'd say there is a drop in the exhaust noise within the cabin. I'll hopefully get a freeway run this weekend so it will be easier to tell.

(note I've removed the cat converter and center muffler so my "noise/exhaust note" was above normall anyhow. but certainly tollerable. I quite liked it:))

[130man]

Hi Scott, thanks for that. Looks like a double benefit from wrapping the exhaust.Cheers, 130man.

[Ranga]

Scott - what was the brand and supplier of the wrap you used?

[scott oz]

Ranga,

Out of office yesterday so sorry for delay.

This is the bloke I got mine off. There is a phone number at the bottom so I rang him and he said he ahd the 30M (100ft) roll. More than helpfull on the phone.

HEAT CLEANED EXHAUST WRAP 30m Long x 50mm Wide +10SST (eBay item 330516436432 end time 07-Apr-11 13:40:38 AEST) : Cars, Bikes, Boats (http://cgi.ebay.com.au/HEAT-CLEANED-EXHAUST-WRAP-30m-Long-x-50mm-Wide-10SST-/330516436432?pt=AU_Car_Parts_Accessories&hash=item4cf45095d0)

[Ranga]

Ranga,

Out of office yesterday so sorry for delay.

This is the bloke I got mine off. There is a phone number at the bottom so I rang him and he said he ahd the 30M (100ft) roll. More than helpfull on the phone.

HEAT CLEANED EXHAUST WRAP 30m Long x 50mm Wide +10SST (eBay item 330516436432 end time 07-Apr-11 13:40:38 AEST) : Cars, Bikes, Boats (http://cgi.ebay.com.au/HEAT-CLEANED-EXHAUST-WRAP-30m-Long-x-50mm-Wide-10SST-/330516436432?pt=AU_Car_Parts_Accessories&hash=item4cf45095d0)
You forgot to tell me how fun a job it is! :eek:

What a PITA - particular with no assistance :o

I'm yet to take it for a decent drive, but hopefully it will be quieter and cooler.

[scott oz]

Ranga ,

Interested in what you think particularly the sound.

What product did you go for?

[Ranga]

Ranga ,

Interested in what you think particularly the sound.

What product did you go for?

Went for the one you linked. I reckon there's a drop in cabin noise. Not dramatic, but both the wife and I think it's made the cabin quieter. Not sure about heat drop - I have to wait for another hot day.

[scott oz]

Just thought I post a quick update on the exhaust wrap, now that I've driven a few K’s in and out of city traffic etc.

Well I can say that there is a definite heat reduction in the cabin.

The other day when all was fully warmed up and still running I got under and touched the exhaust right next to the transfer case. I was able to "grab" and hold the exhaust.

I then went to the rear of the vehicle and felt the exhaust gas. Now I usually do this (infrequently) to see if any soot attaches to my hand or I can see discolouration (soot). Based on this the exhaust gas felt hotter.

In addition I've noted a lower exhaust noise.

Can't say I've noticed any increase in performance. Didn't expect too either.

Just my experience to date. Yes in my view worth the effort.:)

[freedriver]

[QUOTE=rick130;1442177]OK, things seem to be getting a little confused.

Cast iron shouldn't be wrapped, it'll crack.

I was planning to wrap my d2td5 from the head to the first muffler ,i sure don't want out to crack but I have seen many turbos housings wrapped and they are cast iron aren't they? Is out the great retention that causes tyre cast iron to crack out something else?

[rick130]

OK, things seem to be getting a little confused.

Cast iron shouldn't be wrapped, it'll crack.

I was planning to wrap my d2td5 from the head to the first muffler ,i sure don't want out to crack but I have seen many turbos housings wrapped and they are cast iron aren't they? Is out the great retention that causes tyre cast iron to crack out something else?

Did you read the next line of that quote ?


Yes, race cars wrap turbo manifolds, a 4WD isn't a race car.
If you want to coat a cast iron manifold, use HPC, Jet Hot, Swain Tech, etc paint/ceramic coatings. They don't retain near as much heat as the silica based wraps.You can buy a specific turbo blanket for certain model turbine housings but it's for high performance applications only AFAIK.
I've been told it will lead to degradation of the housing and manifold long term, but it'd be interesting for someone to ask Garrett what their take on it would be.

When I was racing I used 0W-5 engine oil, (that's not a typo) turned the oil pump delivery pressure right down so that I only had 30psi @7000RPM, touched the rocker pads up every meeting to maintain maximum lift, etc, all in the interests of reducing parasitic losses and making the most HP the engine could deliver, but would you run an oil that light in any road engine for normal use ?
Hell, most of my competitors weren't willing to push the boundaries as much as i was :D

[rick130]

[snip]
Can't say I've noticed any increase in performance. Didn't expect too either.

[snip]

Just a FWIW, the boss (can't recall his name) from one of the big SE Queensland exhaust places rang me a few years back and we discussed exhausts, vortex mufflers, fuelling etc.
(I'd enquired about the mufflers, I'm a sceptic, still :D )

When dyno testing a TD42T Patrol he accidentally found that HPC coating the dump and 3' of down pipe gained 3-4HP over an uncoated system. (not that you'd ever feel that with a bum dyno ;) )

They'd just been swapping bits testing exhausts and mufflers when they discovered this and it was repeatable between a coated and uncoated down pipe.

It really surprised him. All we could think of was that it maintained velocity and therefore scavenging out of the turbine :confused:

and further, the stock Patrol system is wrapped for the first 3-4' with rigid heat shields to reduce heat into the cabin.