Bugger clutch, gearboox and flywheel housing

[dullbird]

Hey Guys

Put the engine back in today on Little Miss and we were going to put the gearbox in also, however somethings have prevented this.

looking at the clutch we were going to use it again as it had plenty of meat on it, but on closer inspection today it has some oil contamination.

Does anyone know where I can get a clutch from for the car. Will repco or the likes likely sell a clutch to fit a 4 cylinder 2a?

Also we need an O ring for the fly wheel housing as this too appeared to have oil over it and in it along with some grit so can only assume the O ring was allowing this to get passed.

Now where is the oil coming from? we can only at this point assume that the oil is coming from the gearbox, as inside the bellhousing of the gearbox was completely coated..does this sound plausible?

Does something need to be changed on the gearbox like a seal or something? would be good to address this if there is a common thing that happens and can be easily changed before taking the effort to put it all back in

[Blknight.aus]

the oil comes from one of 3 places...

mostly in the 2's its from the gearbox with it out its a simple case to drop the clutch throwout assembly and replace the bits that need it.

then its the rear main occasionally its the T seals, fingering the back of the flywheel through the timing port cover will reveal if its either of these (you can change the rear main and the t seals with it all assembled but its not a whole lot of fun.

very very rarely its oil leaking down the back of the engine into the joint of the adaptor plate and bell housing. this is easy to spot as oil on the back of the block.


yes repco can do the clutch for a 2 a but if your going the complete unit be warey of the pressure plate if you have the 3 finger pressure plate, they have a nasty habit of providing the series III pressure plate which wont work on a series 2 box without an adaptor for the throwout.

on edit

I also tend to flavor the gearbox oil with a little ATF or oil based food dye to give it a clearly definable colour, gearbox oil that winds up in the bell housing picks up clutch dust and looks a lot like engine oil.

[dullbird]

Dave I think there was oil on the back of the engine...but I cant really remember as there was pretty much oil everywhere when we took everything out. the gearbox was covered in oil and dirt as was the front diff so it was really hard to see where anything had come from especially as it looks like YEARS worth of oil and dirt

[dandlandyman]

It sometimes works to simply smell the oil. Gear oil has a distinctive smell.

Dan.
69 2A 88" pet4 (in disguise), 68 2B FC pet6 (resting quietly), plus others.

[Blknight.aus]

the easy way to check it with everything apart.

run the engine up without the box on it, if its going to leak it will.

get a special drill bit lathed up for your drill that steps from 1/2 inch to about inch (whatever the size of the nose of the input shaft is.) use a peice of hose pipe and a pair of hose clamps to mount that to the nose of the box clamp it into the drill then use that to spin up the box for 20 minutes or so any leaks will become obvious.

[dullbird]

i'm not sure how we can run the engine without putting everything back on?

[Wallydog]

Most common leak that wets the bellhousing is the rear main oil seal. Leaves that wet patch in the parking bay.

Its a 9/10 nasty job to change out a cheap part. When fitting the new seal use Hylomar on the lips of the seal and shaft which is recommended by LR. Sump off to get to it.

I did one but the engine was out so made it easier. had to take ther sump off. W.

[Blknight.aus]

i'm not sure how we can run the engine without putting everything back on?

easy enough.

secure the engine on its mounts and block of wood under the flywheel housing on top of the cross memeber, fuel from a line into a half full jerry can with a rag stuffed in the neck to stop the vapours jumper cables to the starter motor and the coil and cooling via the radiator mounted to its bulkhead and held in place by a couple of bolts and a bit of rope tied to the spring mounts.

[dullbird]

Ok so say the main seal has gone whats involved in changing it? is it behind the rather large wheel at the bottom of the engine?

[Blknight.aus]

unbolt flywheel (optional but it makes it easier)
drop sump
unbolt rear main journal cap, loosen all other crank main journal caps
remove old seal and t piece seals
inspect shaft for grooving and journal cap for damage, (speedy sleeve crank if its badly scored where the seal sits)
install new seal
install new tpiece seals
install rear main journal cap
retorque all main journal caps.
put the fly wheel back on.

simple huh?

[wagoo]

unbolt flywheel (optional but it makes it easier)
drop sump
unbolt rear main journal cap, loosen all other crank main journal caps
remove old seal and t piece seals
inspect shaft for grooving and journal cap for damage, (speedy sleeve crank if its badly scored where the seal sits)
install new seal
install new tpiece seals
install rear main journal cap
retorque all main journal caps.
put the fly wheel back on.

simple huh?

Maybe it's because I'm half asleep from too many late nights, but your instructions here seem over simplified and confusing. Is it a series two/twoA 2 1/4 litre 3 main bearing engine we are discussing here? If so the oil seal, a split hinged type runs on the same journal diameter as the rear main bearing ,in front of the large flywheel mounting flange, so a speedy sleeve can't be fitted.The sump, flywheel and flywheel housing has to be removed and although fitting the oil seal is a bit of a fiddle, loosening all the other main bearing caps is pointless and doesn't make the job any easier.

Depending on the year model of the gearbox it may not actually have an oil seal in the throwout assembly, but instead a coarse thread machined onto the input shaft that acts as an Archimedes screw pump, to prevent gearbox oil from running out of the box, down the input shaft and all over the clutch plate. This brilliant idea only works on steep down hills as long as the engine is kept running and the clutch pedal isn't depressed.

Wagoo.

[dullbird]

mmmmm I think what I will do is take my chances and hope it doesn't leak...hahahahahahah:D

[Wallydog]

mmmmm I think what I will do is take my chances and hope it doesn't leak...hahahahahahah:D

Check Repco or S'Cheap or similar for an oil [bigsmile] additive that might help. Park the LR slightly downhill so ther oil moves to the front of the pan. Then watch it leak through the timing cover seal. That one is easier to replace. W.

[dullbird]

:lol2:

[Wallydog]

:lol2:


and at least yours is driveable!























\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\