Commodore steel 16 inch rims on disco 2

[Pacemaker]

Hi all,

Over the past few weeks ive been searching for rims 16 inch to put muds on for weekend use. At work i had several steel rims from a VE commodore laying around. So far i have worked out the following.

2006 to current VE Commodore runs 120 x 5 PCD which is the same as disco 2

The base model commodores have a steel rim which is rated to 730kg per rim. Size is 16x7

This steel rim from the commodore has an offset of 43 which is going to stick out half as much as any steel sunrasier available. The standard disco 2 wheel offset is 57 and the sunrasier types are all 30

The centre spigot of the commodore rim is 66.9mm in diameter. The disco 2 rim is 70.0. That 3.1mm difference.

The standard wheel nuts from the commodore fit on the disco 2 wheel studs. Well this is the case on my 99 disco 2 td5. The wheel book says my disco is 16x1.5 and commodore is 14x1.5. The book must be wrong.

I have drilled the centre spigot out of the commodore rim to 70 mm and the wheel fits the front and rear of the disco with plenty of clearance from calipers and steering components. This was using the commodore wheel nuts. My only concern is the maximum weight allowed for the commodore rim being 730kg.

Even with the centre spigot 3.1mm larger i dont believe this will weaken the rim. the load and centralising of the rim is done by the standard tapered commodore wheel nuts.

With the offset of the commodore rim being 43 but only being 7 inch wide i have worked out that the commodore rim will stick out 2 mm more than my LR factory 18x8. This is about 15mm less than the sunrasier style rims with 30 offset and 7 inch width. If you decided to go an 8 inch sunrasier style rim you could add another 12mm to the 15mm making it 27mm further out than the standard LR rim.


cheers. Michael.

[Redback]

I'm pretty sure the Disco alloys are only rated to 750KG per rim, the weight of a D2 TD5 is 2225KG.

Disco 2 wheel studs are 14mm x 1.5 as are the newer Commodores, the Disco 1 is 16x1.5.

Baz.

[Scouse]

One of the Sydney guys on here runs Commodore centres on his D2. The wheels are rather modified but the centres are Commodore.

[PhilipA]

I believe the Ute has heavier duty steel rims than the car. Maybe check the load rating of them.

My mate building his Alloy D type replica is using Commodore ute rims, as they look like Dunlop alloy rims.

Regards Philip A

[Rosscoe68]

back in the day when we used to run a BMW speedway car, we used late commodore wheels on it as there were no steel BMW rims with the size and offset we wanted for speedway. so the logic goes for me, that BMW and particularly X5's etc should fit onto D2. worth a look for more wheel options i think.

[Tombie]

back in the day when we used to run a BMW speedway car, we used late commodore wheels on it as there were no steel BMW rims with the size and offset we wanted for speedway. so the logic goes for me, that BMW and particularly X5's etc should fit onto D2. worth a look for more wheel options i think.

Sure do... I have a set here :cool:

[Discobaker]

I'd be concerned about boring out the centre of the rim, at least in vic & nsw you're not even legally aloud to drive on rims with slotted holes to suit more than one make of car. I doubt if the altered rims would be classified as "roadworthy" but I guess if your on private property it don't matter but good luck with insurance if you stack & they see the rims you're running.
My 2c worth.

[bee utey]

I'd be concerned about boring out the centre of the rim, at least in vic & nsw you're not even legally aloud to drive on rims with slotted holes to suit more than one make of car. I doubt if the altered rims would be classified as "roadworthy" but I guess if your on private property it don't matter but good luck with insurance if you stack & they see the rims you're running.
My 2c worth.

I can't see how machining 1.55mm radius out of the centre locating hole would count as a dangerous modification which would weaken the wheel. There's no slotting involved.

[clubagreenie]

You're allowed to use a plastic ring to reduce the size of the hole on rims that are hub centric. I'd rather make a hole bigger on something that doesn't rely on it than put something plastic (and trust me brittle) to locate it.

[PhilipA]

I can't see how machining 1.55mm radius out of the centre locating hole would count as a dangerous modification which would weaken the wheel. There's no slotting involved.

BUT the rims in question if like the ute rims have a rolled edge at the centre which appears designed to add strength. Machining1.55 MM would reduce the thickness of the roll significantly as the wheel steel thickness appears to be about 2MM (on the ute rims)or so.

My mate with the D type replica and I had a long discussion as he has the problem that his E type hubs are bigger than the hole also but AFAIR more like 4MM, so maybe he will machine some off the hubs.
Regards Philip A

[Discobaker]

I can't see how machining 1.55mm radius out of the centre locating hole would count as a dangerous modification which would weaken the wheel. There's no slotting involved.

All rims have to meet a safety standard, they are passed & approved in the condition they leave the factory in, alter the original state & the standards required are no longer met until proven that your alteration has not weakened the original structure.
My old man is a safety auditor & we've had long discussions regarding similar examples to this when I spent my time modifying Fords.

[Discobaker]

I guess it's kinda the same as bolting a 5 speed Celica gearbox to the back of a 253 or 308, heaps of people do it but it's technically supposed to be engineered to get it registered, the original structure has been altered. It was a 3 speed box from factory, now it's a 5 speed. Hot rod builders quite often will use a HZ, HQ Holden chassis & running gear then drop a 56 Chevrolet pickup shell over the top. Have a look at the rego, it's a Holden HZ, but it has to have an engineers cert to register it.

[Pacemaker]

I would have thought that the strength would have come from the area around the 5 holes where the wheel nuts go. There should be very little to no force on the centre of the rim where I have cut out.
I'm going to fit the tyres tomorrow and try them out on Sunday. I will put the car through hell and see what happens to the rims.
Michael.

[Basil135]

I would have thought that the strength would have come from the area around the 5 holes where the wheel nuts go. There should be very little to no force on the centre of the rim where I have cut out.
I'm going to fit the tyres tomorrow and try them out on Sunday. I will put the car through hell and see what happens to the rims.
Michael.

And this is the kind of real-world testing that will reveal the answers.

[Pedro_The_Swift]

I would have thought that the strength would have come from the area around the 5 holes where the wheel nuts go. There should be very little to no force on the centre of the rim where I have cut out.
I'm going to fit the tyres tomorrow and try them out on Sunday. I will put the car through hell and see what happens to the rims.
Michael.

dont the d2 rims centre on a lip?

[clubagreenie]

The alloys do, esp if you don't keep them clean the dust/hub rust sticks them in place.

[Pacemaker]

My 18s have about 1 mm larger hole than hub. So there is no strength coming from the centre hub. Saying this the sunrasier style wheels have a much larger centre hole which is no where near the hub on the disco.
Anyway I did 850 kms this weekend with the commodore rims on. I towed an 1180 kg horse float with a 450 kg horse and about another 150 kg of water, feed and gear.total of approx 1800 kg. This was for about 300 kms. I did some medium to hard 4x4ing on Saturday at ormeau and gave the wheels a real hard time and today I drove out to janowen hills four wheel drive park. I met a few club members out there and had a great day. We conquered medium level tracks and a bit of mud stuff. There were a couple climbs we did that according to the map were hard but they weren't. I bounced over quite a few rocks and tried flexing the rims as much as I could.
I'm confident that I could leave these rims on full time and have no problems.
Time will tell.
Michael.

[Jeff]

Pictures !!!

:rulez:

[Buncha]

Interesting to hear about the Commodore wheels 'Pacemaker'. How did you open out the centre?

I'm getting a camper trailer built and want it to have wheels I can interchange with the Disco 2 if required. The builder is having trouble getting hubs/stub axles to suit. Any ideas?

[waz]

Interesting to hear about the Commodore wheels 'Pacemaker'. How did you open out the centre?

I'm getting a camper trailer built and want it to have wheels I can interchange with the Disco 2 if required. The builder is having trouble getting hubs/stub axles to suit. Any ideas?

If the trailer currently has LC wheels on it, the suspension will have to come off and longer stub axles fitted to meet the desired track - probably around 60mm longer(an engineer at an ag machinery workshop should be able to help here as there is some precision required to get it all straight)

You can get blank hubs, and have holes drilled at 5X120mm PCD to fit the 14mm studs for the D2 wheelnuts. You can get D2 wheelnuts 2nd hand (or late model Commodore - VE onwards - are also 14mm but I'm unsure on the length).

The hub centre is where it gets a bit tricky. You need to make sure that a D2 wheel fits over the hub centre. While you're having the hub machined, you may be able to have them take a whisker off the hub centre as I don't think it is load-bearing.

Please don't trust me on anything written here. this is just what I have worked out as I'm currently going through the same exercise.

Waz

[stallie]

Good info, thanks. I too am looking at replacing the axle and wheels of a All Terrain Camper Trailer with D2 compatible wheels. This gives me a good place to start.
After I finish stacking the winter fire wood, and painting the new study and putting on a new laundry door and building the kids cubby and refitting the dashboard and instruments to the TR6 and painting the eaves and fixing the throttle on the ride on and putting in the new clothes line and weeding the garden beds and pruning the roses and ..... :eek:

[Redback]

Good info, thanks. I too am looking at replacing the axle and wheels of a All Terrain Camper Trailer with D2 compatible wheels. This gives me a good place to start.
After I finish stacking the winter fire wood, and painting the new study and putting on a new laundry door and building the kids cubby and refitting the dashboard and instruments to the TR6 and painting the eaves and fixing the throttle on the ride on and putting in the new clothes line and weeding the garden beds and pruning the roses and ..... :eek:

I have commodore hubs and Disco 2 alloys on my Redback Camper, been on there for 5yrs:D

When the new Disco arrives I will change them to suit it too, it's very handy having the same wheels on the camper and car, got me out of a bind once.

Baz.

[hippydude_65]

My 18s have about 1 mm larger hole than hub. So there is no strength coming from the centre hub. Saying this the sunrasier style wheels have a much larger centre hole which is no where near the hub on the disco.
Anyway I did 850 kms this weekend with the commodore rims on. I towed an 1180 kg horse float with a 450 kg horse and about another 150 kg of water, feed and gear.total of approx 1800 kg. This was for about 300 kms. I did some medium to hard 4x4ing on Saturday at ormeau and gave the wheels a real hard time and today I drove out to janowen hills four wheel drive park. I met a few club members out there and had a great day. We conquered medium level tracks and a bit of mud stuff. There were a couple climbs we did that according to the map were hard but they weren't. I bounced over quite a few rocks and tried flexing the rims as much as I could.
I'm confident that I could leave these rims on full time and have no problems.
Time will tell.
Michael.

Hi, i understand its been awhile since your post on the commodore rims fitted to your disco 2, but i would like to know how it turned out. Did they stand up, and keep standing up, did u keep em on, what happened in the end basically ????? i am thinking of this as an option, and would like your imput on this topic .... Cheers , Wayne

[Bigbjorn]

I guess it's kinda the same as bolting a 5 speed Celica gearbox to the back of a 253 or 308, heaps of people do it but it's technically supposed to be engineered to get it registered, the original structure has been altered. It was a 3 speed box from factory, now it's a 5 speed. Hot rod builders quite often will use a HZ, HQ Holden chassis & running gear then drop a 56 Chevrolet pickup shell over the top. Have a look at the rego, it's a Holden HZ, but it has to have an engineers cert to register it.

A mate built a street rod using an unknown chassis, a mixture of Auburn and Packard brakes and axles, a Buick Straight Eight engine with 4-71 blower, a GM-H heavy duty three speed (as used behind 253's). Given the go ahead by the Technical Committee of the ASRF, he took it downtown to register it. The QT guy wanted a make to put on the application so my mate told him what was in it . Then the guy asked what did it look like. Built to resemble a mid-thirties Aston Martin. So it is registered as a 1935 Aston Martin.

Try registering a vintage/veteran make that is not on their computer if you really want a bureaucratic runaround.

[twr7cx]

Anyone know if the Commodore steel rims are available in 16 x 8" wide?

With the offset difference, do the Commodore wheels stick further out or further inside the guards (further out would be beneficial for the wider and taller tyres)?