View Full Version : to "set"windows in a P38A
51jay
26th March 2011, 01:56 AM
I've had the battery disconected for a couple of weeks, Now the car is all back together again none of the windows or sunroof work, the error message for each of them is window not set and sunroof not set. Question is how do I set them?? I'd be grateful for any help
996TURBO
26th March 2011, 02:23 AM
Easy do a search here it 's been covered many times. Too long to explain it again.
51jay
26th March 2011, 02:53 AM
Thanks for that. Being a new P38A owner I've been reading through the P38A forum, I'm up to page 21 with no mention of it as far as I recall. Just done a search on "set windows" it turned up my post :)
rovercare
26th March 2011, 07:06 AM
I'm remembering in my old one, just opened the window and cotinued to hold the switch till it beeped, then down and it come up with window set.....or vice versa, but that was all:)
bee utey
26th March 2011, 07:23 AM
Just had one do that, you only need to operate all the windows all the way down and up, no waiting. Then the sunroof to open, shut and lifted.
Keithy P38
26th March 2011, 09:30 AM
That's the way to do it! From the closed position, take the windows/sunroof all the way down and hold the button for half a second in the down position, then immediately switch to up and once up hold the button for half a second in the up position then you will see the message "window set"...
51jay
26th March 2011, 11:14 AM
Thanks guys, unfortunately none of them are interested in moving even a milimeter. I've checked all the fuses.
Incidently a couple of people have sugested replacing the fusebox as a preventative measure. Is that the engine bay box or the one under the drivers seat or both?
Ive replaced the engine bay one( haven't seen the other anywhere), the radiator, all the cooling hoses, water pump, serpentine belt,viscous fan centre and the a/c condenser in a splurge of hopefully preventative maintainance. Never gave a thought to the bloody windows. All were working before I unhooked the battery. Maybe my wife really doesn't like me :(
Junosi
26th March 2011, 11:25 AM
Not to point out the obvious - but is the window switch pack still plugged in ? If you've had the console out etc maybe ....
wayneg
26th March 2011, 02:34 PM
Not to point out the obvious - but is the window switch pack still plugged in ? If you've had the console out etc maybe ....
I second that, its the obvious place to look.
51jay
26th March 2011, 10:00 PM
Haven't touched the console except to hopefully and repeatedly press various window switches. :D
It seems that setting the windows is not the problem. Question is why have the windows stopped working. Ive removed and replaced all the fuses. I haven't touched the centre console so have to assume that nothing has changed in there.
I do have the panels off under the dash drivers side, i'm looking for the ambient air temp sender...haven't found it yet. I have replaced the one in front of the a/c condenser, it was missing...replaced with a resister.
The ambient air temp shows as - 38 to -58 and the aircon blows hot air trying to get up to 24 degrees.........I love my Rangies........just as well eh!
I was surprised at how much bigger and heavier the P38A feels, though still very nice to drive. Much more like a very comfy truck than the 93 Vogue which feels like a biggish car.
adm333
26th March 2011, 11:56 PM
The fusebox that people suggest replacing is the one in the engine bay.
It is subject to deterioration due to excessive and persistent heat.
Many have reported the disappearance of several electrical gremlins after replacing this.
For your windows, it could be this but a worse scenario is that the BeCM is playing up after being disconnected from power for a few weeks.
Look for a post by "Rupert" describing how to do a hard reset.
ALways make sure your battery is in tip top condition. If not, get a new one. Look up Supercharge - you can get a good new one for about $150 using the AULRO discount - if you're willing to drive to their warehouse.
This may sort it out.
Dave
RR P38
27th March 2011, 06:05 AM
You could find a member that has some diagnostic equipment in your area.
Get the RR plugged in and it should tell you where the fault lies.
I would have thought the Ambient air sensor was around the MAF and the air intake for the engine.
Or are you talking about the cabin sensor which is the round vented hole next to your clock?
On the fuse box in the engine bay, i had some AC faults 5 years ago which i traced down to the relay connections in the fuse box, they pulled out of the circuit board!
It is a pretty seriously heavy duty piece of gear inside.
I pulled the whole thing out and pulled it to bits, i replaced the female connectors and i resoldered the dodgy looking connectors as i found them.
Finally i made a mold around the cracked case (top exposed face) and i poored a good slug of Araldite to level off the damaged piece of the fuse box and to give the connectors some support.
I have not had a problem with it since.
You need a powerfull iron and some patience and about 5 hours to do the job all the plugs i marked as there are a few.
Mike_S
27th March 2011, 07:24 AM
If the windows were working before the battery went off and now don't work at all, either (as others have said) you have a disconnected plug or the BeCM needs a hard reset. I changed the battery on my old P38 twice and all it took to reset the windows and roof was to run them fully open / closed 3 times in each direction, that set them back up (mine was a year 2000 car).
The air temperature sensor was behind one of the front fogs on mine, sorry I can't remember which one. Sounds like it's gone pear shaped if it thinks it's -38 outside. I also had that problem, it only dropped to -16 but I got bbq'd inside until the sensor was changed. I also used to clean the interior sensor grilles fairly regularly with a hoover, the dust in them used to screw up the climate control something silly.
Rupert Prior
27th March 2011, 10:56 AM
if the hard reset doesn't work then it could be the switch pack. if you can get one, then swapping is the easiest way to test it. if no swap is available post it to me and i will test it and if possible repair it. the problems seem to be corrosion, sometimes from drinks spilt from the stupidly positioned drink holder but more often from rain dripping from the sun roof.
51jay
27th March 2011, 01:24 PM
Thanks for all the replies. I am doing a hard reset right now as per Rupert Priors instructions.
Questions for Rupert.... by switchpack do you mean the windows control computer?
Would you be able to test/repair the windows control computer from my 93 Vogue SE? I think it is probably the cause of the intermitent windows problems in that car.
When I take things apart I clean all electrical and earth connections and coat them with carbon grease before reconecting them. Is there a better way to go?
I have got a Faultmate 2 for the P38A , also able to look at the ABS system in the 93 Vogue. Not set up yet due to laptop internet conection problems
Rupert Prior
27th March 2011, 04:51 PM
the switch pack is the unit in the centre console that holds the switches and has the outstation hidden away under the back cover, it all mounts into the console with two self tappers from the cubby box and the handbrake boot.
i'm not sure which type of unit the 93 had but they are normally repairable, but if i remember correctly they had some problems with earth points, switches and relays.
51jay
27th March 2011, 06:44 PM
Hands up the clairvoyants who said the switchpack plug is disconected :eek:
all is now well they are working again and was able to reset them.
only fault now is air con. ambient air temp sensor. Its up under the drivers side dash but so far I haven't found it
Rupert Prior
27th March 2011, 07:29 PM
the ambient air temp sensor is either behind the glove box in the side of the left hand blower motor casing (early p38 without factory upgrade) or behind the front bumper, visible through the grill in the spoiler and mouted on a bracket on the pasenger side of the chassis in front of the condensor (later p38 and those with the factory upgrade).
cadin temp sensor is behind the small grill under the clock.
heater core temp sensor is on the coolant pipes behind the drivers side lower facia.
evaporator temp sensor is in the side of the heater box but close to the fire wall on the drivers side.
adm333
27th March 2011, 08:32 PM
Oh thats right. The easiest way to get to the temp sensor on the older models is through the passenger side pollen filter vent.
Open it up, take out the filter , gag at how bad it loooks, and you will see the temp sensor.
51jay
1st April 2011, 10:01 AM
I've got one behind the pass side pollen filter....seeing it is one thing...reaching it is something else :D
Ive also got one looks the same but slightly smaller in front of the a/c condenser. Would mine be a factory upgrade at build Oct 95?
I'm going to wait and see if the fault stays cleared when the Faultmate is up and running
Rupert Prior
1st April 2011, 12:15 PM
yes, the one in front of the condenser is the upgrade. the other has been disconnected, normally at the ecu/control panel end.
51jay
1st April 2011, 02:30 PM
It's the one at the front that I replaced, it had a resistor or somesuch plugged in there. Hopeful that when i clear the fault, it will stay clear.
Rupert if you'r willing to have a look at the window ECU from my 93 Vogue could you pm me with where to send it thanks
andrew53
1st April 2013, 02:41 PM
Anything to reset is done by opening and closing the sunroof a couple of times. Windows fully up and down. Do this for all things that need to be set
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