Height limits on EAS using Faultmate

[Keithy P38]

G'day everyone!

I have been tinkering for the last few days with the heights on my EAS using my Faultmate MSV-2, and i've had a win (especially when it comes to correcting a lean to the right). What I'm keen to know before I tinker anymore is - What do the values that I'm typing in actually refer to?

I'm seeing numbers as low as 45 in access height, and as high as 145-150 in High. Does this refer to the height measured by the petentiometer or is this a pressure target the bags are aiming for?

I found that the highest number you can punch in on the High setting is 152 without registering a fault, however it looks as though the airbags in the rear are practically fully extended at that number. I'll draw a little chart to explain what I mean...

Wheel centre to arch measurements in mm (with Faultmate values in brackets next to it)

..................FL............ FR............RL............RR............

Low.........443 (89).....450 (83)....440 (91)....448 (92)
Std.........473 (103)....471 (98)....458 (100)...460 (101)
High........530 (136)....530 (129)...550 (134)...549 (147)

Has anyone found out how far you can push the envelope with regards to lifting the P38 (using a faultmate) and not losing articulation or popping a bag?

Many litres of fuel were harmed during the making of this chart! The thing that got me started on this is that I've now got a Foxwing awning and the car was too high in access height to fit into my garage (damn those larger than standard muddies!!), so I lowered the car in access height to aid with that, then I thought about levelling the car in low, slightly raising it in standard and lifting it in high (safely).

Cheers
Keithy

[Keithy P38]

I should add, once i'm finished levelling it (as the rear sits lower in std height) and come up with some good safe numbers, i'll document the details that I have with measurements and upper/lower limits on all heights on the faultmate and post it up here so anyone else looking to do this with the faultmate has something to go off...

Cheers
Keithy

[Hoges]

Ahhh! the dreaded calibration. There's a heap of info on this here and in www.rangerovers.net/forums

Essentially the 'numbers' are socalled bit counts for the ECU. The bit counts are calculated by the ECU from the voltages across the potentiometers and relate to the angular displacement of the sensor arm which is determined by the height of the vehicle. BTW ...the relationship between bit counts and voltage (0-5v) is not linear :mad:

The LR EAS Systems Engineering Document states that when the distance from the bottom of the bump stop stub to the axle plate on the front axle is 100mm both sides and the same measurement on the rear axle is 105mm for both sides then the vehicle is at "Standard Height". All other measurements are then taken from this reference height.

So, to get the correct height settings you need to cut some calibration blocks from hardwood (2" square" is ideal) exactly 100mm long (x2) and 105mm long (x2). Remove the bump stop cushions and and place the blocks between the respective bump stop stub and axle pad and CAREFULLY lower the body so it is resting fully on the blocks. Record the "actual" bit numbers from the Faultmate

If you are so inclined, cut additional blocks in several lengths to represent the different height settings, and once you have the vehicle settled at each height using the blocks, record the "actual" values from your Faultmate. These become the target reference numbers.

Mudguard mid-point to wheel centre measurements etc are only proxies for the correct bump stop to axle distances. They do not take account of chassis warp, irregularities in panel fit, over/under size tyres etc.

If you want to use these other measurements for convenience, record them when the blocks are in place so that you can make allowances later on.

Cheers

[LOVEMYRANGIE]

The bump stop measurement is from the tip of the bumpstop ie the contact point of the stop onto the diff, not to the mounting point of the bump stop.

You need to account for the height of the bumpstop also.

Andrew


I am not a moderator, I am a human being!!!

[Keithy P38]

Cheers guys!

I have already searched RR.net, in fact, I have searched google, landyzone, lrr forums, even blackbox forum to no avail! I was aware of the standard height and calibration blocks also. The main reason behind my thread is that nobody has any data on the net as far as I have found that details the bit-number upper/lower limits that faultmate will allow you to plug in without creating an EAS fault for "height data is not valid".

I wouldn't imagine that tyres would have any difference at all on the centre to mudguard readings though - only if I was measuring from the ground! I would then have to make sure the tyres were all at the same pressure!

I have found the upper limit in the high setting and standard (while attempting to simply level the car), and have about 5 pages of hand-written data so far to somehow make sense of! I don't believe i'll go for the magic "152 bit" as my target setting on High profile as the airbag appears to be at full extension and this will definitly be unsafe off-road.

I've saved the settings every time I made a change on even one of the height sensors, so I can revert back to the settings that were with the car when I purchased it! Very handy!

Now all i'm left to do is go through and find the remaining limits and write them down! I still find it funny that not a single "bit-number" for my RR is the same (the variance between them is quite high simply to make the car level)!!

Cheers
Keithy

[Hoges]

The bump stop measurement is from the tip of the bumpstop ie the contact point of the stop onto the diff, not to the mounting point of the bump stop.

You need to account for the height of the bumpstop also.

Andrew


I am not a moderator, I am a human being!!!

Yep the "tip" ...which is the "bottom" unless it's a case of "bottom's up" :eek::p which it's not because its tip, which is at the bottom because it's hanging down. Its mounting point is at the top but it's the base not its bottom:confused::eek::( It's also an exercise in the correct use of the apostrophe with regard to correct use of its (possessive) and it's (for "it is" )

sometimes I can't help myself...:p

[PaulP38a]

Yep the "tip" ...which is the "bottom" unless it's a case of "bottom's up" :eek::p which it's not because its tip, which is at the bottom because it's hanging down. Its mounting point is at the top but it's the base not its bottom:confused::eek::( It's also an exercise in the correct use of the apostrophe with regard to correct use of its (possessive) and it's (for "it is" )

sometimes I can't help myself...:p

Hoges - sounds like you are channeling the "inner-Ron"... :p

[Hoges]

Yep...it's an " age" thing:wasntme:

[Hoges]

Cheers guys!

I have already searched RR.net, in fact, I have searched google, landyzone, lrr forums, even blackbox forum to no avail! I was aware of the standard height and calibration blocks also. The main reason behind my thread is that nobody has any data on the net as far as I have found that details the bit-number upper/lower limits that faultmate will allow you to plug in without creating an EAS fault for "height data is not valid".

I wouldn't imagine that tyres would have any difference at all on the centre to mudguard readings though - only if I was measuring from the ground! I would then have to make sure the tyres were all at the same pressure!

I have found the upper limit in the high setting and standard (while attempting to simply level the car), and have about 5 pages of hand-written data so far to somehow make sense of! I don't believe i'll go for the magic "152 bit" as my target setting on High profile as the airbag appears to be at full extension and this will definitly be unsafe off-road.

I've saved the settings every time I made a change on even one of the height sensors, so I can revert back to the settings that were with the car when I purchased it! Very handy!

Now all i'm left to do is go through and find the remaining limits and write them down! I still find it funny that not a single "bit-number" for my RR is the same (the variance between them is quite high simply to make the car level)!!

Cheers
Keithy

"Bit" count ranges for various settings from the LR Tech Data
Profile ............................. Front............................Rear
Extended .......................120-180 ...........................105-150
Standard ........................95-150 ............................85-130
Highway..........................75-140.............................75-120
Access ..........................50-110..............................50-100


RangeRovers.net • View topic - EAS calibrating driving me nuts (http://rangerovers.net/forum/viewtopic.php?f=3&t=28235&start=30)

Scroll down to post by Storey Wilson : "Re: EAS calibrating driving me nuts"

very full explanation

hope it helps

cheers


PS have you done the LH<->RH sensor swap to get the benefit of the "new" surface ...i.e. that part of the potentiometer which is not used during normal operation...so by swapping sides you effectively get a new "pot" because the tracks are not worn...

[Keithy P38]

Thanks Hoges! I haven't done the sensor swap. I wasn't aware you'd get any benefit out of it so I've left them alone!

It's good to know there are limits out there and that they are documented!

Cheers
Keithy

[PaulP38a]

As much as I love my Faultmate, when it comes to adjusting the EAS I always use EAS Unlock instead which is quicker to respond and IMHO easier to use.

I challenged my belief in this a couple of weeks ago and forced myself to use the Faultmate when tracing a suspected leak causing the EAS to lower the car overnight. Decided to pump up the air tank first so ran the air comp via Faultmate control. Tried to stop it when tank pressure reached about 140psi but the Faultmate VE screen seemed to stick at the "communicating with vehicle" screen. So I switched off the ignition, unplugged the Faultmate and went back to the EAS Unlock cable.

Sometimes the cheap and simple option is better ;)

Cheers, Paul.

[LOVEMYRANGIE]

Paul
Any adaptor for the classic red plug Kicker cable to adapt to the EASUnlock or have you got the actual cables for it?

I've got your comm/USB adaptor and Storeys cable drawing but after $5 worth of transistors breaking the legs off, couldn't be assed so bought a Kicker instead!

Still could be a handy addition though as the valveblock is going to be replaced, sensors removed and tested and bags replaced shortly.

Cheers

Andrew

PS you got the Evo back OK?


I am not a moderator, I am a human being!!!

[PaulP38a]

Paul
Any adaptor for the classic red plug Kicker cable to adapt to the EASUnlock or have you got the actual cables for it?

I have a few of the red LD024 cables for the Kickers and Faultmates but have not tried to make up an adapter to suit EAS Unlock. To do this, I'd need to pull one apart to see if it has the circuitry required by EAS Unlock, and if not make up an inline box/PCB. Also would need to make a D-SUB adapter to connect to serial. Would not be too difficult I guess.

Better solution is to integrate the USB-Serial adapter on to the PCB with the transistor and do away with the D-Subs...

I can feel a rainy-day project coming on, unless you want to do it? I have no RRC to test it against ;)



PS you got the Evo back OK?
I think so... there was a "sorry we missed you" note from Toll in the letterbox this arvo.

[LOVEMYRANGIE]

I need to find a DB9 connector that allows for a small PCB for the transistor and wiring. Either that or a straight pinout PCB for USB as per what you sell.

If you want to make up something I'm more than happy to test it!

Andrew

I am not a moderator, I am a human being!!!

[PaulP38a]

I think this is do-able... just dissected a USB-Serial Adapter to see what is possible... easy enough to de-solder the DB9, but there is not enough space to solder in the transistor so another PCB is needed, maybe a piggy-back. While I'm at it, I should de-solder the USB plug and attach a cable so the adapter/box itself does not weigh down the USB port on the PC.

Looks promising, but would be have to be an on-demand/low volume thing rather than a production run like the P38 EAS Unlock Cables.

Would be pretty simple to adapt to the P38 Unlock Cables too, which I have been giving some thought to for a long time now anyway.

But I digress from the topic... sorry for the hijack Keithy ;)

Cheers, Paul.

[Keithy P38]

All good guys! I'm still reading!!

[PaulP38a]

If you want to make up something I'm more than happy to test it!


Made up a couple of cables last week. One for RRC EAS and the other for P38 EAS. Both have USB-Serial adpater inline.

P38 version seems to work well, don't have a RRC to test that cable.

Will send it over to Andrew for testing... excuse the dodgy heat-shrink finish ;)

Cheers, Paul.

[LOVEMYRANGIE]

Got the cable in the post today. Will have a play with it over the weekend and see how it works. I have EASUnlock somewhere....

Andrew


I am not a moderator, I am a human being!!!