catastrophic coolant 'leak' (more like a pouring out)

[landyprincess]

Hi All,
Hope you are well. Desperately seeking some help with a new leak I have.

I've attached photo's of the pipes and section of the engine in question. All coolant related.

Aside from the throttle body assembly leaking this is a newly discovered leak. Mind you when I mention leak, I had filled the chamber "opaque bottle located on driver side" to 1/2 way before doing my kindy run and by the time I had come back it was empty and while stopped noticed the coolant dripping out very fast from underneath. Seems to only be the case once the engine is hot and when cooled down seems to not leak as quickly.

It's dripping/running from the underside of the vehicle at blistering rates so I am wondering... the cylinder type shape seems to be where the coolant pipes converge into... is there a seal or something in between those or joining a top and bottom half of that cylinder shape??

as an interim fix can some silicon be used to seal the two pieces as such until it gets repaired or is it something else that I need to check?? My husband has silicone which can withstand high engine temps...

I've attached two pics, one of where I think the leak is coming from and the other relative to where it's in engine wise...

I welcome any advise... my lp is getting into the sick category now *boo hoo*...

Thanks,

Lp

*** edit, i've looked in the RAVE CD and "cooling system V8 > component layout" - I seem to think the problem lies with item #20 but I don't know exactly what item #20 is... so any help appreciated... - thanks :-D

[Psimpson7]

The cylinder thing you refer to is the thermostat. I wouldn't drive it patched up if you dont have too.

if its leaking from the join, order a new one. They arent supposed to come apart.

[imatt]

My first thought would be your water pump, the photos show the coolant seems to be coming from somewhere other than your thermostat, but the second photo looks as if it could be coming from the top hose. Do you have a plastic screw head in the top hose that goes over the radiator? These are prone to breaking and were redesigned to fit in the tee junction at the top. It still might be water pump mine went when I was out shopping, I noticed a massive puddle under the car when I came back to it. I had a land rover mechanic in mornington fix it, he was very good and reasonably priced. His business details were: Mornington Prestige, 13 Bennetts Rd Mornington, PH:59736670. I would get it checked sooner rather than later.
Cheers Matt

[landyprincess]

The cylinder thing you refer to is the thermostat. I wouldn't drive it patched up if you dont have too.

if its leaking from the join, order a new one. They arent supposed to come apart.

Thanks so much for that, much appreciated.

At the most my trips to kindy are local and are about 5 - 10k's away from home each way. I only have 2 trips this week. IF I continue filling up / checking the chamber each trip do you think I will be ok still driving it for these short runs while I wait for the part.

I'll ring some wreckers tomorrow in my area that may have NEW parts, I can't wait for shipping times from the UK to be honest...

Just another question, do I need any new clamps that attach to this or anything else that you could advise / share please?


Many thanks

Lp

[imatt]

I would first try and confirm which part is at fault, generally people will replace the hose clamps with standard adjustable ones much easier to use and probably more reliable.
Cheers Matt

[Pedro_The_Swift]

the colours look a bit strange,,,
the pink could be OAT I suppose,,
and whats with the green on everything else??
and the T piece has already been replaced,,

replace the clamps on all the "red" bits,,

you could open the bonnet when hot--
but maybe wear a welders helmet and rain coat??:p

The throttle body leak is common enough, just join the two hoses.

it certainly pumps the fluid out!! :eek:

yes,, new hose clamps,

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2011/03/48.jpg

[landyprincess]

My first thought would be your water pump, the photos show the coolant seems to be coming from somewhere other than your thermostat, but the second photo looks as if it could be coming from the top hose. Do you have a plastic screw head in the top hose that goes over the radiator? These are prone to breaking and were redesigned to fit in the tee junction at the top. It still might be water pump mine went when I was out shopping, I noticed a massive puddle under the car when I came back to it. I had a land rover mechanic in mornington fix it, he was very good and reasonably priced. His business details were: Mornington Prestige, 13 Bennetts Rd Mornington, PH:59736670. I would get it checked sooner rather than later.
Cheers Matt


Thanks Matt for the reply. Pain in the ar$e isn't it!! I've just inspected all of the clamps and they all seem to be in order, not cracked, split or broken off. They seem to be plastic not metal (unless the metal ones were powder coated black) but they are definately not able to be moved/prised apart (unless I use a flathead screwdriver or the like??)... I've attached a photo of the top "T" section - all appears to be in order. (Let me know if this isn't the top "T" section ok!!)

I'm aware of Malcolm @ MP, it's where I had it 1st serviced and received a long list of repairs LOL!!! But this is new *sigh*...

Thanks again for your help :-D

Lp

[landyprincess]

the colours look a bit strange,,,
the pink could be OAT I suppose,,
and whats with the green on everything else??
and the T piece has already been replaced,,

replace the clamps on all the "red" bits,,

you could open the bonnet when hot--
but maybe wear a welders helmet and rain coat??:p

The throttle body leak is common enough, just join the two hoses.

it certainly pumps the fluid out!! :eek:

yes,, new hose clamps,

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2011/03/48.jpg



Thanks Pedro! Yes it's OAT coolant - red nulon stuff that gets filled into the chamber driver side.

Green - NFI... you tell me as I can't see any green LOL!!!

With the "T" piece, so it's been replaced?? I have no idea.... or were you making a statement?

Do you think I should replace the clamps first as apposed to the plastic chamber that holds the three pipes or just do everything?

"The throttle body leak is common enough, just join the two hoses"

u wanna give step by step instructions for that luv? I'm a chick !!!


** edit** Forgot to mention, when I did open the bonnet I did hear a slight hissing sound coming from the chamber in question that Matt posted earlier which to me sounded like air escaping from somewhere....

thanks :-D

Lol

[imatt]

It might just be me but there should be a bleed screw in the middle of that T piece, coolant looks to be coming from that general area by the splash marks.
Cheers Matt

[Psimpson7]

As has been said see if you can work out exactly where it is leaking. Even if you need to use a mirror with it running.

It could be almost anything, but it looks pretty severe so you should be able to find it.

Start it up with the bonnet open and see if you can see any more.

[Psimpson7]

It might just be me but there should be a bleed screw in the middle of that T piece,


I cant rememeber exactly but that was only there on either the later or earlier cars. It was somewhere else on the others.

[imatt]

Here is a photo of my t-piece and the hose that originally would of had the bleed screw halfway along.

[bob10]

Please forgive me if this sounds silly, but is it possible the "T " piece is upside down? That could put the bleed screw on the bottom, could be leaking there :question: Bob.

[landyprincess]

Here is a photo of my t-piece and the hose that originally would of had the bleed screw halfway along.

Thanks - definately don't have that!!, but will look as bob suggested. It's in my NFI category.

Thanks so much for the replies...

Cheers

Lp

[landyprincess]

Please forgive me if this sounds silly, but is it possible the "T " piece is upside down? That could put the bleed screw on the bottom, could be leaking there :question: Bob.

Hi Bob, Not too sure, will have to see what I can see...

nothing is ever silly :-D...

Cheers Lp

[Psimpson7]

Ok found it. The earlier V8 D2's had the bleed screw in the middle of the top hose, not the T piece.

See this post by tempestv8 http://www.aulro.com/afvb/technical-chatter/59867-td5-v8-d3-bleed-screws.html#post779655

[landyprincess]

Ok found it. The earlier V8 D2's had the bleed screw in the middle of the top hose, not the T piece.

See this post by tempestv8 http://www.aulro.com/afvb/technical-chatter/59867-td5-v8-d3-bleed-screws.html#post779655

Thx ... but what is defined as an earlier d2? Mine's a 2000 year...

thx Lp

[imatt]

Your disco is an early model mine is a 99/00 and it had the bleed screw in the hose, it was the first fault I had, the plastic screw gave up and caused coolant to leak everywhere while I was driving. You might even have split the radiator, it happened in a work vehicle of mine. You need to look at the coolant splash marks and try and find the source, the engine fan will have spread a lot of it around but look for a central start point. Sort this fault quickly otherwise it might cost you an engine.
Cheers Matt

[JBM770]

I just had heaps of probs with hoses and they seem to fail one after the other.
On mine the plastic screw for the air bleed split in half and leaked.
The tee piece without the screw was the early design as others have said and was replaced with the screw in the tee type and the horizontal hose doesnt have the bleed screw now. I went to buy just the screw and had to buy the three hoses as an assembly as a new part.
The hose from the pump to the thermostat in the early style had rubber joins, these joins a very prone to failing, the new design has a plastic junction instead.
The thermostat body will also perish over time and the necks become brittle allowing the flared part to break off and cause the hose to leak at the connection.
The housing under the throttle body that is leaking can be disconnected and the two hoses can be joined to bypass it, there will be a rubber hose attached to the top of the motor and a plastic tube running back to overflow bottle, push the plastic tube into the rubber hose and secure with one of the clamps.
If doing short trips watch the temp gauge and pull over as soon as the temp starts to climb. Wait for it to cool down and top it up again, repeat as necessary.
Parts from OS are good value and can land at your door in about a week, if you can nurse it that long you could replace all of your hoses and the thermostat for the cost of just the top hose bought here.
I would also look at getting a new viscous hub and radiator or at least have your radiator cleaned out, to remove the rad you need to take off the fan, the hub and all the hoses, so doing them all at once is a good idea.

James

[Sully]

Throw the bleed screw theory out as mine is a 99 and the bleed screw is in the t piece. LP, your bleed screw will most likey be on one of the coolant pipes.

Please don't drive it without sourcing and plugging the leak. Your fluid reservoir should never be empty while driving. If you do drive it you're just asking for a cooked engine.

[Cannon]

I had the exact same splatter pattern when my water pump sprung a leak.

DO NOT DRIVE IT :)

Find the problem & fix it.

A couple of taxi fares if you need them is much cheaper than fixing an overheated engine.

Good luck:)

*EDIT*

You can see in the second picture that the coolant is at the bottom of the engine. right near the water pump.

[clubagreenie]

Mine is also a 2000, screw in top hose. I cut the section out and giot a piece of s/s ex pipe to fit inside, welded a piece of solid s/s to it and drilled/tapped it to accept a s/s plug. The tee is also being made in s/s and eventually only the bends in the top section will be hose, just joined by s/s as much as possible. Also enable use os std silicon hoses.

[landyprincess]

I had the exact same splatter pattern when my water pump sprung a leak.

You can see in the second picture that the coolant is at the bottom of the engine. right near the water pump.

Were you meaning to upload some photo's or are you referring to another reply or the second pic I uploaded?


I've uploaded a few more pics, while the radiator fan has splattered coolant everywhere, to me it really does look like the chamber that these hoses go into that has the main leak... or leaking from the clamp. Refer to second pic which leads into the bottom hose. What do others think?

As for the water pump - where is this meant to be *still confused* what am I meant to be looking at? What section is it in the rave cd.... looking and can't find it as yet....

Thanks for your help and replies, all much appreciated :-D



Cheers,
Lp

[Psimpson7]

There is something odd with that hose going into the bottom of the thermostat.

I have attached a version of your 3rd image.

there are 2 hose clamps as far as I can see. The original one is the one I have highlighted with '11'

An extra one has been fitted (highlighted with '1'), but to me it looks like the clamp isn't on the hose, more appears that it has dropped down and is clamping just on the thermostat itself. (Its very difficult to tell in the image)

Could the extra clamp have missed the hose, and the hose has come partly off the thermostat because the original clamp has lost its tension.

The spray pattern looks like it could just be coming out of that hose.

I would have a good look at the way the hose is clamped there. Maybe even remove both clamps, and refit with a new one.

I agree, dont drive the car until this is sorted. Its likely to only be a simple fix, but coukld be very costly if you overheat it.

Good luck.

(Edited to add, the second pic actually shows that the second clamp may be ok - so maybe disregard my suggestion)

[clubagreenie]

I'd have to agree looking at that pic. Even the RH rear hose doesn't look pushed on far enough (gap between hose end and body of t'stat). They should go on all the was. Scrap the cheesy tension clamps (OEM's) and get screw or t bolt clamps.

[Sully]

LP, we're all just having a bit of a guess here, which is good for troubleshooting the problem, but do yourself and us a favour. Pop your bonnet and start the car. Any leaks will become evident very quickly. Once you've found the source then we'll be ableto diagnose with more accuracy.
;)

[landyprincess]

LP, we're all just having a bit of a guess here, which is good for troubleshooting the problem, but do yourself and us a favour. Pop your bonnet and start the car. Any leaks will become evident very quickly. Once you've found the source then we'll be ableto diagnose with more accuracy.
;)


I know and it's really appreciated too :-D...


Have just filled coolant up and started and run for not even 5 mins. After putting my head under the bonnet to inspect and being sprayed in the face with coolant figured it had to be coming from up-top somewhere.... upon closer inspection of the top of the engine/hoses ... noticed a hose leading into the radiator with the same type screw concept as per what others had mentioned (only in a different location on others hoses!).

The photo I have uploaded shows coolant spitting out of it - it wasn't screwed in properly as I gave it a wiggle and it fell out!


Out of curiosity, how long should the neck of that screw be that gets screwed into the hose? I've just looked at it and it looks as though it has broken off and no amount of force is letting it get screwed in!!!

When folk have mentioned that these were notorious to fail... and other than replacing that section of hose without one... can the bleedscrew be siliconed to the thread as such as an interim measure?




As far as that hose goes too... is it possible to replace that section without that screw in the middle? If so, is it something that can be sourced and what's the diameter of the hose?

Does anyone else have this bleedscrew on their top hose.

It's the hose leading into the top side of the radiator.



Cheers,
Lp

[AussieAub]

Mine is a 2000 V8 and when I bought it also had the top hose with bleed screw as yours.
My screw also failed, and the replacement top hose kit I bought from Rovacraft came as the "updated" version, with 3 new hoses and T piece with bleed screw on the T piece.

You'd do better replacing the lot (top hose assembly), and get rid of the original hose clips too. Get some better hose clamps, they enable the hoses to be better tightened and therfore create a better seal.

I personally dont think that repeated fixes with silicone, cutting and chopping hoses, etc, is the best way. Don't think the top hose kit was a bank breaker, and you'll have the assurance in your mind that it was fixed "properly".

I've just recently had every coolant hose replaced on mine following a near catastrophe myself. I should have the hoses you need in the garage (they are good condition, and only replaced as part of the course). If I do still have them, and if you can cover postage (you can have the pipes for free), I'd be happy to send. But I'll need to check I have them for you first , later today when I get home.


As far as that hose goes too... is it possible to replace that section without that screw in the middle? If so, is it something that can be sourced and what's the diameter of the hose?

You really need a pipe or T piece with the bleed screw, as it lets you get air out the system, being its heighest point of travel, and where an EngineSaver kit fits for monitoring low levels of coolant. :D


Cheers,

Best of luck!

[Sully]

Good work LP. The bleed screws can become brittle over time, which I suggest is the case here.
Now that you've found the cause, lock up the car and don't start it again until it's fixed.

You might have trouble finding a new bleed screw on its own as I believe the screw and hoses all come as a replacement unit. This might not be a bad thing though... If you manage to find a second hand one at a wrecker, who knows how long that will last.

Another option is for you to purchase an engine saver as the alarm sensor screws into the hose as a direct replacement for the bleed screw.

**edit** Kieren was posting some similar info a the same time as me!

[landyprincess]

Good work LP. The bleed screws can become brittle over time, which I suggest is the case here.
Now that you've found the cause, lock up the car and don't start it again until it's fixed.

You might have trouble finding a new bleed screw on its own as I believe the screw and hoses all come as a replacement unit. This might not be a bad thing though... If you manage to find a second hand one at a wrecker, who knows how long that will last.

Another option is for you to purchase an engine saver as the alarm sensor screws into the hose as a direct replacement for the bleed screw.

**edit** Kieren was posting some similar info a the same time as me!


No no...Thanks to everyone for all of their input, it's so much appreciated!!

I've actually called rovaparts and they sell a brass bleeder screw for the top radiator hose - about 30$ inc gst+express post. I will have this tomorrow.

That's one down.... and the rest to go LOL...

Will keep everyone posted on this one as I may need some more help if the bleeder screw and replacing the clamps doesn't fix it...

As for locking up the car, no - I don't plan on driving until I know i'm not loosing coolant. Nulon is expensive @ this rate of loss LOL!


Cheers

Lp

[landyprincess]

I've just recently had every coolant hose replaced on mine following a near catastrophe myself. I should have the hoses you need in the garage (they are good condition, and only replaced as part of the course). If I do still have them, and if you can cover postage (you can have the pipes for free), I'd be happy to send. But I'll need to check I have them for you first , later today when I get home.



Thanks for the offer, that's very kind of you but i'll see how I go first with the bleed screw replacement and other fix to the clamps on the thermostat . Worst case I will buy new hoses as you are right, not a bank breaker. From memory 125+freight for the top 3 hoses.


Cheers,
Lp

[landyprincess]

Hi,
I forgot to ask.... can someone please advise what the diameter is of the hoses leading to the thermostat. I need to make sure I have the right size metal clamps...


much appreciated...


Thanks

Lp

[clubagreenie]

ID is 31.8mm (1.1/4") so allow for around 3-4mm each wall guessing around 38 which is 1.1/2".

[BIG O]

Forgive me for coming in late and I know your talking about bleed screws being the problem here, but my two cents is that it looks like a cracked thermostat jetting coolant onto the fan. ;)

[landyprincess]

Forgive me for coming in late and I know your talking about bleed screws being the problem here, but my two cents is that it looks like a cracked thermostat jetting coolant onto the fan. ;)

Hello,
Thanks for your reply... never too late :-D

===================================

An update....

To cut a long and frustrating story short hubby decided to take the top radiator hose off. In doing so a small piece fell out. I can only describe it as rectangular in shape, plastic moulded & raised with thread inside.

I'm guaging that this would have been fixed at some stage to the INSIDE of the hose alowing for the bleeder screw to be screwed into the hose (my mind boggles as to why it was ever designed like that!?!).

Eitherway, i'm leaning towards a new hose kit. Hubby seems to think it can be 're-engineered' (which makes sense) so I will 'let' him do that while I wait for a new hose kit to arrive.

I've also added to my list a gasket for the throttle body (known leak) and some shiny new screw clamps. (Wow, I may just have my underbonnet return to a grease/dirt monger state instead of a lovely shade of pink!)

As for the thermostat, given the amount of coolant spewed everywhere I'm going to attack the engine/bay with a pressure washer and remove/inspect the thermostat/bottom hose over the weekend. Best case the thermostat is ok > worst case I get a new one.

Thanks again.... will keep you posted / if I need any more help :-D

Cheers,
Lp

[landyprincess]

There is something odd with that hose going into the bottom of the thermostat.

I have attached a version of your 3rd image.

there are 2 hose clamps as far as I can see. The original one is the one I have highlighted with '11'

An extra one has been fitted (highlighted with '1'), but to me it looks like the clamp isn't on the hose, more appears that it has dropped down and is clamping just on the thermostat itself. (Its very difficult to tell in the image)

Could the extra clamp have missed the hose, and the hose has come partly off the thermostat because the original clamp has lost its tension.

The spray pattern looks like it could just be coming out of that hose.

I would have a good look at the way the hose is clamped there. Maybe even remove both clamps, and refit with a new one.

I agree, dont drive the car until this is sorted. Its likely to only be a simple fix, but coukld be very costly if you overheat it.

Good luck.

(Edited to add, the second pic actually shows that the second clamp may be ok - so maybe disregard my suggestion)

Thanks for the reply and your edited pic...

Funnily enough I thought the very same thing when I realised there were two clamps.... more to the point why - did someone just get lazy or was there a more 'sinister' problem that warranted two clamps....

On Sat i'll be removing and inspecting the thermostat/hoses/clamps to see what's what and will put on new clamps (metal screw ones) when I put everything back together again.

Do you have any tips on how best to remove the original clamps?


Cheers,
Lp

[davros]

Good on ya Landy princess. As to that bit of plastic that fell out I once had what I think was that come loose inside the top hose on my D2 TD5 (similar weak plastic rubbish bleed screw). It stayed in place but would rotate inside the hose making tightening difficult. May well be yours came loose in the hose - when they do, you can't tighten the beeed screw properly as the hidden female half keeps turning. Maybe someone gave up and left it too loose? If you pinch the hose against it you can stop it turning whilst you tighten the screw. I changed the hose, made a brass bleed screw and never looked back!
Dave

Oh! And the spring clamps. There's probably a special tool but I use standard blunt nose pliers and squish the clamp bigger then wiggle it onto a free section of hose away from the join before pulling off the hose.

[Panya]

X2 for Sully's suggestion. Fit an engine saver the sensor goes on where the bleed screw fits anyway!

[clubagreenie]

The piece inside the hose was sealed behind the hole and was what the screw went into. When it comes unstuck the head of the screw isn't strong enough to keep it in place. This is what led me to modify mine. Just cut out the section and fit an insert.

[landyprincess]

Davros, Panya & Clubagreenie
Thanks all for your replies, pointers and tips....:-D

=========================================

I've taken a photo of the broken bleed screw, bit that fell out from inside the hose and the replacement brass bleed screw received.
Photo attached: from left: black bit is the original broken bleed screw / middle object is the bit that fell out from inside the hose / far right is the brass bleed screw received.

As you can see.... the brass bleed screw I received, even if I had the inside bit still inside it would never fit anyway... so I'll need to make contact with them tomorrow as I was told it would be ok. I don't know if anyone has purchased a hose kit recently and can confirm whether the diameter of the screw in bleed screw is the same or different and whether the hose kit is genuine or aftermarket?

(**) Now for my husbands suggestions....

Hubby suggested finding a 'bolt' that would fit on the thread of the bleed screw, tac (weld) some wire to the bolt... thread it through the hose and up into the hole and attempt to screw in the top bleed screw...

HUBBY also bought some "high pressure PVC pipe" after he explained to the guy @ reece plumbing what he needed it for and was told it would be ok to use ... ?????????

Hubbys has suggested to:
1. cut the top hose removing the bleed screw section all together
2. joining both pieces together by a small length of high pressure PVC pipe
3. securing/sealing the joined pieces with plumbers mate and metal screw clamps...

While i'm all for getting the whole hose kit there's a week between that happening and i've still got some kindy runs to do inbetween that time.... so ... what are your thoughts on something like this as an interim measure?

I'm sure folk have done a myriad of creative things as well as folk who have gone down the standard replacement path of which there's no right or wrong ...but your thoughts are welcomed...

Cheers,

Lp

[clubagreenie]

HP PVC would be an ok temp fix IF he also used the pvc cleaner and glue and glued it in (test on some scrap rubber first to see if it melts it). Same thing I did with S/steel and I made a bleed to weld onto it.

[bee utey]

Go to your nearest exhaust shop with the bleed screw section of your hose (which you've just cut out) and get a short piece of exhaust pipe the correct size. If you can find a nut that matches your new plug, have it welded on the pipe (over a hole of course) This will be a reliable fix which will outlast the car.:):):)

[landyprincess]

I'd have to agree looking at that pic. Even the RH rear hose doesn't look pushed on far enough (gap between hose end and body of t'stat). They should go on all the was. Scrap the cheesy tension clamps (OEM's) and get screw or t bolt clamps.

am just going through this thread again, sorry that my replies are not in a logical order (well some!!!)...

when you mention T bolt clamps how do they differ from the screw in ones. The screw in ones I am familiar with...

Thanks

Lol

[landyprincess]

Go to your nearest exhaust shop with the bleed screw section of your hose (which you've just cut out) and get a short piece of exhaust pipe the correct size. If you can find a nut that matches your new plug, have it welded on the pipe (over a hole of course) This will be a reliable fix which will outlast the car.:):):)

While I drive a manual (which is obviously out of action).... it would mean that I would need to drive my husbands rocket FJ40 *gasp*.... LOL

Cheers,

Lp

[clubagreenie]

No, correct response to him is; you'd rather walk than drive it because at least you know the Disco breaks down reliably.

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/

T bolt clamp.

[Pedro_The_Swift]

we call them MIKOLOR clamps(brand name) up here,, but they will crack plastic tubing so be carefull

[JBM770]

The new brass screw should be M10 with a 1 mm pitch on the thread to suit the Tee piece with the bleed screw.

[landyprincess]

No, correct response to him is; you'd rather walk than drive it because at least you know the Disco breaks down reliably.

http://pipe-clamps.manufacturer.supplierlist.com/productsimages/stainlesssteeltboltclamp_164992.jpg

T bolt clamp.

hahahah - well.... as he says "the tables have turned".... it's only taken him a few years to get his to where it's at now... "running".... and now that that's the case.... mine isn't!!!

thanks for the picture... :-D

Cheers,
Lp

[landyprincess]

The new brass screw should be M10 with a 1 mm pitch on the thread to suit the Tee piece with the bleed screw.

Hello,
Thanks for your reply. Totally confused by the M10 bit and 1mm pitch bit too.

As for the bleed screw it's not located on the T piece at all but on the top hose so not sure if that makes a difference in size/thread pitch??

Cheers,
Lp

[clubagreenie]

Yes the one in the hose is about 3mm (def not 4, couldn't make it fit.) Either way, you need to just cut the section out and insert pipe, buy tee on its own (with bleed) and cut out hose tee and replace.

[landyprincess]

Yes the one in the hose is about 3mm (def not 4, couldn't make it fit.) Either way, you need to just cut the section out and insert pipe, buy tee on its own (with bleed) and cut out hose tee and replace.

Thanks for that :-).... I kinda followed what you were on about.

I managed to pressure wash the engine/bay area yesterday afternoon so had a clean slate to work with :-D... In the end i've not gone with my husbands idea and have done my own....i've used the brass bleeder screw and a metal screw clamp AND the original hose without any cutting and joining etc.

I shaved off about 1mm (if that) off the lip from the inside of where the original bleeder screw screwed into and with alot of downward force and a spanner managed to "screw in" the brass bleeder screw with O ring seal.

I also got a metal screw clamp and slipped that over the hose/top of the brass bleeder screw and tightened that up and did the "wiggle" test. No amount of 'wiggle is going to move that off but we're on about pressure now generated from the engine...

so.... I started the engine, let it run @ idle... did some revs at about 2 thou and inspected for any leaks around the brass bleeder screw and thermostat. Happy to report that there are no leaks from either of those.

I've just come back from a 5 min run on the road varying speeds/revs/gears and have checked for any coolant escaping (brass bleeder screw / thermostat) and also checked whether the clamp had moved around at all....

Happy to report that no coolant escaping from O ring or thermostat and the metal screw clamp is securely in place...

Just want to thank everyone for all of their input .... it's much appreciated :-D (now that that's sorted for the time being ... off into the front yard to do some excavating)


Pic attached....

Cheers,
Lp

[clubagreenie]

so the bit that came out of the hose you put back in?

[landyprincess]

so the bit that came out of the hose you put back in?

Nope, didn't use it. Somehow I just managed with shaving ever so slightly that lip off to "screw" in the brass one.

Worth mentioning though was that I used a "screw extractor" tool to shave off a smidge of the lip. Perhaps that got things started with a thread of sorts for the brass bleeder screw to get screwed in????

I explained to my husband what I wanted to do and he said it wouldn't work using the screw extractor tool... and that he didn't have a tap n die set - guess he was wrong on that one.... gosh, hope that makes sense!! Eitherway... it worked... maybe a fluke on my part ??

while I know the thread needs something to thread into (which is the bit that fell out or equivalent)... didn't want to risk it so used the clamp as a precautionary measure to hold it there!!)

Cheers,
Lp

[imatt]

I held my broken bleed screw in with a cable tie as temporary measure, are you planning to replace the top hoses? It would be more reasuring to replace top hoses and install the brass screw in the plastic tee piece. Hopefully soon I will look to install an enginesaver alarm on my V8.
Cheers Matt

[landyprincess]

I held my broken bleed screw in with a cable tie as temporary measure, are you planning to replace the top hoses? It would be more reasuring to replace top hoses and install the brass screw in the plastic tee piece. Hopefully soon I will look to install an enginesaver alarm on my V8.
Cheers Matt

I am planning on replacing for sure, however... some have the bleeder screw in the T piece and mine is in the top hose... do you know if they come standard in the T piece now or are there varying types???

Out of curiosity.... - is there any reason why a bleed screw is needed at all? I know the radiator doesn't have a cap (like older cars)... but wasn't that just for releasing pressure... which.... isn't that what the OAT reservoir does??? Are there any folk that drive around without a bleeder screw in any hoses???

Cheers,
Lp

btw - great use of the cable tie too :-D

[clubagreenie]

You need the bleed screw as that's the highest point of the system (until you lift the reservoir to fill, as in the manual) and you need to let the air bleed out. So it is kinda necessary.

[landyprincess]

You need the bleed screw as that's the highest point of the system (until you lift the reservoir to fill, as in the manual) and you need to let the air bleed out. So it is kinda necessary.

Hello,
Hope you are enjoying your afternoon :-)

Thanks for the reply...

... So everytime I put coolant into the reservoir I need to release the bleed screw to let air out??

Isn't that the same as unscrewing the cap off the coolant reservoir and slightly reving the engine to expel any air pockets?

When I took it to the mechanic a while back he did the latter - my 'assumption' was that it was to get rid of any air pockets.... ???

Please correct me if I am wrong - confused now....

Thanks,
Lp

[Blknight.aus]

the bleed screw isnt really required if you know how to bleed the cooling system without it. I usually use the coke bottle method and either a jack or a hill to get the vehicle on the right angle.

since I havent done a post up on the coke bottle method and I just happen to have a tdi300 that needs its cooling system filled and an empty coke bottle I'll do up a thread on it.

DO NOT use those T clamps on the thermostat, heater, radiator or expansion tank hoses, its quite easy to torque them around and snap the fitting off of the parent item or to crack it by over tightening. Good quality screw clamps are more than enough and with the correct preparation Ive not had those one use spring clamps leak yet.


reving the engine increases the coolant flow once the thermostat is open and assists in purging the cooling system of air. Due to the fnaegalry in the layout of the cooling system in a modern vehicle they sometimes need a bit more than that.

[clubagreenie]

fnaegalry???

[Pedro_The_Swift]

I think it must be one of Daves more obscure technical terms,,:D

[Fluids]

Google says ....

Your search - fnaegalry - did not match any documents

Did you mean: fan gallery ?

:p

[Blknight.aus]

nahh youd be after the fan shroud mate, not the fan gallery..

heres the coke bottle method link (http://www.aulro.com/afvb/projects-tutorials/126121-coke-bottle-cooling-system-fill.html#post1457327)