2a GS Refurb ARN 178-334 [Archive] - Australian Land Rover Owners

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gromit

30th March 2011, 08:48 AM

I collected a 1970 2a GS just before Christmas from a fellow forum member.

This will be a long-term project, I'm already working on a Series III FFR plus ongoing work on a Series I, plus a Series III diesel (yet to be collected), maintenance on a Defender Tanami without the collection of old motorbikes ....What is it about Land Rovers and the need to collect as many variants as possible....

I had already started the framework for a shed extension before buying this one and there is no room for it so it will have to stand outside. Luckily it has a hardtop fitted......

Anyway I've attached a couple of pictures. It starts & runs OK, the exhaust is a little smoky, the radiator leaks, the canvas is beyond repair but it's complete and very original and came with a lot of spares.
So far I've overhauled the starter motor, one of the brush springs had broken (rusted through). Pinched one from a spare starter and all now OK.
Checked the brakes, rears OK, wheel cylinders free so could be re-sealed. Fronts the linings were loose on the shoes (the bond was breaking down) but again the cylinders were free so can possibly be re-sealed.
I tried a couple of local brake places to get the front shoes re-lined but the cost was higher than expected and they do not carry exchange shoes any more. Seems the demand for brake shoes is dropping off and it's not worthwhile carrying changeovers.
Tried another place close to where I work in Dandenong and got the original shoes re-lined for $50, 2 days turnaround.

I need to source a replacement radiator or get mine repaired ( bugger, I just sold a '58 Series II with a good radiator for less that it will cost to get the radiator repaired).

I'm gathering together new parts and will be doing odd jobs on it when I can (or when I get fed up with the ongoing problems with the FFR).

Colin

The ho har's

30th March 2011, 07:23 PM

Great to see another saved:D you didn't say if a 88' or 109":) opps my bad pics tell all:)

"What is it about Land Rovers and the need to collect as many variants as possible...."

You tell me and we would both know;)

Mrs hh:angel:

mikesolo

30th March 2011, 08:17 PM

Colin
Looks like a nice straight unit, even a good front bumper. congratulations on your new project. keep us posted.

Mike

numpty

1st April 2011, 06:38 AM

Must be the season for new finds.

Congrats.

gromit

1st April 2011, 08:52 AM

Must be the season for new finds.

Congrats.

Dolphint found it some time ago but decided to sell it. I just happened to be in the right place at the right time (for a change !).

Colin

dolphint

1st April 2011, 09:22 AM

Dolphint found it some time ago but decided to sell it. I just happened to be in the right place at the right time (for a change !).

Colin

Actually, SWMBO decided for me:(. I'm really pleased it's gone to a good home and will get the attention it deserves:) well done Colin

gromit

4th April 2011, 07:37 AM

As this is a long-term project I thought I'd change the oils at the weekend. The engine oil was done soon after I got it home and the filter changed at the same time, I also flushed the cooling system and topped it up with tank water and corrosion inhibitor. The top tank of the radiator leaks but still best to have something inside to hold back the corrosion.
I drained the gearbox and the oil was a milky coffee colour where it had emulsified with water. the transfer box and front axle were the same. I decided it would be an idea to check the swivel housings, one was empty and the other let out about a teaspoon of water first followed by some very black oil. Interestingly the drain plugs on both swivel housings had been replaced by grease nipples.

I buy EP80W90 direct from a blender rather than from an auto shop so it's not too expensive. Rather than trying to flush the boxes & axle I decided to leave them to drain as long as possible and then re-fill with fresh oil. It will get contaminated by what's left of the emulsified oil but will be changed again before the vehicle gets back on the road.

I was tempted to start stripping down the front axle but decided to concentrate on the FFR and leave the 2a until I've got more time.

Colin

gromit

4th June 2012, 09:06 AM

It's over a year since I last did anything on the 2a ! Doesn't time fly.....

It gets moved occasionally and I charged the battery yesterday but with too many other projects around the property I need to prioritise and get one vehicle sorted.

I collected the original axles for the 2a from Dolphint (one recently and one 6 months ago). The owner before Dolphint had replaced the axles but kept the originals.
I'll overhaul & paint the axles then it's an easy swap over job.

Problem is a new project may take short term priority, I need to get it running so that at least I can move it off the driveway.

Colin

Lotz-A-Landies

4th June 2012, 11:17 AM

Hi Colin

Too many projects. How well I can relate to those sympathies!

Yesterday I had planned to do some rock art paint removal from my gun buggy, but alas the vehicle is currently outside and it rained all day. Mum always told me there is no working with electric power tools in the rain, and one always has to obey mum!

Diana

gromit

14th December 2013, 04:52 PM

Decided the 2a needed a clean today.

I keep the battery charged and start and run it every now and then. Last time I tried it just didn't want to start, seemed to be a fuel supply problem.
Found that a rubber hose in the fuel line had perished and the pump was pumping air rather than fuel.
Replaced the fuel line, primed the fuel system and she started immediately this time. Carby needs an overhaul and the choke cable must be rusted somewhere because it doesn't want to operate.
There is also something funny going on with the clutch. The pedal is very stiff to operate and sometimes it seems to jam before reaching the floor. All I've done since I got the 2a is bleed the clutch so it'll need some more investigating.

Finally jetwashed it and left it in the sun to dry out.
A quick run around the garden to throw some oil around inside the gearbox & axles and back under cover.

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2013/12/485.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/WEb9SL)DSCN2807 (https://flic.kr/p/WEb9SL) by Colin Radley (https://www.flickr.com/photos/152321353@N07/), on Flickr

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2013/12/486.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/VufQr2)DSCN2809 (https://flic.kr/p/VufQr2) by Colin Radley (https://www.flickr.com/photos/152321353@N07/), on Flickr

I have all the hoops and also a new canopy from Red Rocket but first need to get my shorty finished over Christmas and then decide whether to start on the 2a or the FFR.

Colin

gromit

15th May 2017, 10:41 AM

This and the FFR have been on the backburner for some time. It's started and run regularly, even driven around the garden to splash some oil around.

The fuel supply issue turned out to be very, very old fuel that had turned to varnish. The dip tube in the tank was almost completely blocked where the fuel was sucked up, lined the inside, then drained back to tank and when re-started it laid down another layer until the pipe was almost blocked.
The valves in the fuel pump were sticking closed so I had to pull the pump apart every time I wanted to start it !

Anyway, fuel tank out, cleaned & de-rusted. It's ready to go back when I get a moment in the meantime fuel is supplied from a plastic bottle.

The original axles were supplied with it (those fitted were from another vehicle) and I stored them off the ground under a tarp. Last weekend I decided to pull out the front axle & overhaul it. Got it into the garage and drained the oil and water came out !!! Not sure whether it's condensation buildup or whether there was water inside when I collected them. Diff sounds a bit 'crunchy' so I'll probably have to replace it plus the first swivel hub bearing I've taken apart is pitted ! The oil/grease mixture inside seems to have prevented too much rust.

Note to self : If you get things like axles and you don't know how they have been stored drain them and add some oil and roll it around to distribute over everything inside......

I have a spare pair of doors that I'm rebuilding because the bottom edge was rusted out and new Series II doortops.

Repairs starting on the doors.

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2017/05/1087.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/WtxcqG)DSCN4216 (https://flic.kr/p/WtxcqG) by Colin Radley (https://www.flickr.com/photos/152321353@N07/), on Flickr

Temporary fuel supply

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2017/05/1088.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/WwUPna)DSCN3537 (https://flic.kr/p/WwUPna) by Colin Radley (https://www.flickr.com/photos/152321353@N07/), on Flickr

Axle getting stripped (apologies for the picture quality).

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2017/05/1089.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/Vv4T28)DSCN4333 (https://flic.kr/p/Vv4T28) by Colin Radley (https://www.flickr.com/photos/152321353@N07/), on Flickr

Colin

gromit

15th May 2017, 03:46 PM

Because there was water in the swivel housing the taper roller bearing the swivel pivots on was rusty, nothing serious but while it's stripped down I though it best to replace it.

To drift the taper roller outer race out you need to press out the Railco bush first then make up a drift to go through the hole vacated by the Railco. The quicker/simpler option is to run a bead of weld round the outer race and, as if by magic, it falls out.
I've done this before and if you're not careful you end up with weld spatter on the chrome or inside the swivel. You can buy anti-spatter spray but I don't have any. The solution was to cut a piece of aluminium to sit over the outer race with another piece to sit underneath so any spatter hits the aluminium.
I happened to have some aluminium in a Land Rover colour......

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2017/05/1094.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/Vv4RhM)DSCN4336 (https://flic.kr/p/Vv4RhM) by Colin Radley (https://www.flickr.com/photos/152321353@N07/), on Flickr

Worked a treat and will, I'm sure, come in handy when I do the other side !

Colin

JDNSW

15th May 2017, 07:28 PM

gromit

16th May 2017, 05:27 AM

That is ingenious! Well done! You don't have to make up a special drift. Last time I did it I simply used a brass drift, working round the circumference - brass means you don't have to worry about damaging the ball.

John

Thanks John,

I used to do much the same. Then I found that if you turn up something the right size it goes in (or out) with a few pumps of the hydraulic press, plus you make sure it's evenly pressed home.
Access to the lower swivel bearing outer is very restricted and there is only a mm or so of outer race to 'hit', even with the Railco removed you might struggle with a drift.

Working in the pneumatics industry I have access to lots of different sizes of aluminium extrusion that come in handy. When turned down even if it only touches in four spots it makes life easier with the press......

Colin

gromit

18th May 2017, 04:06 PM

I've been cleaning, painting & finding parts to complete the front axle.
There were backplates but no slave cylinders or drums, fortunately I had those 'in stock' plus some new brake shoes.
Stripping the slave cylinders down I found one with a cup seal and the other three with an annular seal. One bleed nipple was the ball bearing type but no ball bearing....it had been screwed down till the hex head hit the body of the slave cylinder (i wonder if it sealed).

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2017/05/1092.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/Vv4MLZ)DSCN4348 (https://flic.kr/p/Vv4MLZ) by Colin Radley (https://www.flickr.com/photos/152321353@N07/), on Flickr

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2017/05/1093.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/WtxEqo)DSCN4347 (https://flic.kr/p/WtxEqo) by Colin Radley (https://www.flickr.com/photos/152321353@N07/), on Flickr

Colin

gromit

27th May 2017, 11:30 AM

Swivels rebuilt with new taper roller bearings, the Railco's were OK. Pre-load set and new seals fitted.

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2017/05/1090.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/Vv4J9P)DSCN4409 (https://flic.kr/p/Vv4J9P) by Colin Radley (https://www.flickr.com/photos/152321353@N07/), on Flickr

Made a plywood disc to blank off the axle while removing flaking olive drab paint.

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2017/05/1091.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/WwVkin)DSCN4407 (https://flic.kr/p/WwVkin) by Colin Radley (https://www.flickr.com/photos/152321353@N07/), on Flickr

Diff is probably past saving (rusty crownwheel & pinion) so looking for a replacement.

Colin

UncleHo

1st June 2017, 07:58 AM

gromit

6th June 2017, 07:15 PM

G'day Grommet

Have you given and thought to using 4.1 ratio diff centres in it, I have 4.1's in my Lightweight,gives good road speed with less strain on the 2.25 engine,but you will probably have to fit a brake booster,either a remote (passengers side) PBR VH-44,or use a Series 3 brake unit,then you can either use a single system or go the split system(safer than single) if going to a series 3 unit you will need the top panel of a S3 guard as it has the cut-a-way for the booster, hope that has given you a couple of ideas,as when I finish the re-build of my 68 model 2a (172-484) I will be using my VH-44.

cheers

UncleHo,
I'll probably stick with standard diffs as this won't see too much long distance work.
My Series I is on standard diffs and 50mph was achieved for long distances going to Cooma in 2008. Got to 55mph a couple of times but the Father-in-Law was giving me dirty looks and shouted something about going home on a tilt-tray.......

I do have a couple of VH44's so I might get one overhauled and fit it in the future.

A fellow forum member offered a diff from a car on his property. Took it out at the weekend, some wear on the crownwheel & pinion but thought it would be OK if freewheel hubs fitted and only used when needed. Cleaned it up tonight and a piece of a fibre shim from behind one of the spider gears fell out !! Looks like I'm searching for another diff.

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2017/06/595.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/WvYoi1)DSCN4416 (https://flic.kr/p/WvYoi1) by Colin Radley (https://www.flickr.com/photos/152321353@N07/), on Flickr

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2017/06/596.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/WHpBTf)DSCN4413 (https://flic.kr/p/WHpBTf) by Colin Radley (https://www.flickr.com/photos/152321353@N07/), on Flickr

Colin

gromit

27th June 2017, 07:55 PM

The replacement for the replacement diff turned out to be in good condition (thanks Steve).
Took a bit of getting out of the vehicle with bolts that were a struggle to undo in the cold & wet but the diff was full of clean oil and the crownwheel & pinion didn't have any detectable wear.

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2017/06/593.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/WEXHyC)DSCN4424 (https://flic.kr/p/WEXHyC) by Colin Radley (https://www.flickr.com/photos/152321353@N07/), on Flickr

Cleaned several kilos of oily mud off the outside (used clingfilm to keep the dirt out while I got it home) and fitted it into the axle tonight and painted it.

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2017/06/594.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/WtxPe5)DSCN4427 (https://flic.kr/p/WtxPe5) by Colin Radley (https://www.flickr.com/photos/152321353@N07/), on Flickr

Once the front axle is completed I'll have to start on the rear......hopefully there's no water in this one otherwise I'll probably be looking for another diff !

Colin

Homestar

28th June 2017, 04:48 AM

So this will be ready for Corowa right? [bigwhistle]

gromit

28th June 2017, 05:54 AM

So this will be ready for Corowa right? [bigwhistle]

Either this or the FFR......

I have some friends in Springhurst that we normally stay with when we come up to Corowa. They want me to get the GS finished so that they can travel inside for the parade so I'll have to see.

Colin

gromit

16th July 2017, 04:49 PM

Slowly assembling the front axle until I hit a problem..... One of the driveshafts wouldn't fit back into the axle housing, either the splines not fitting into the diff or the bearing not matched......After some investigation the problem was resolved.

I have a number of long & short front driveshafts that have been salvaged from a several different axles. They either have rust damaged inner axle bearing or rust damaged seal collar (or both !). I found a long driveshaft with a good inner bearing track and seal collar but didn't think about the mating part of the axle bearing ! Not good practice to mix & match bearing components but as most of them were Hoffman I thought it would be OK.
Turns out that Hoffman & SKF were used, the bearing external dimensions are controlled but the diameter of the inner race that the rollers bear on is different between manufacturers.

A lot of bearing outers have been thrown out due to rust damage but I managed to find one that fitted and drifted out the one in the swivel housing and refitted the replacement. In future as a shaft is removed i'll have to write the bearing manufacturer on the shaft unless I'm replacing the bearing.

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2017/07/448.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/VxvNRk)DSCN4432 (https://flic.kr/p/VxvNRk) by Colin Radley (https://www.flickr.com/photos/152321353@N07/), on Flickr

A few swivels either being repaired or ready to throw away (any usable bearings will be kept).

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2017/07/449.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/Vxw9tB)DSCN4428 (https://flic.kr/p/Vxw9tB) by Colin Radley (https://www.flickr.com/photos/152321353@N07/), on Flickr

Colin

gromit

24th August 2017, 05:49 PM

Haven't had much spare time lately, if I have it's been in short bursts between running kids around, fixing the septic system, working on kids cars etc..........

Front axle is taking shape, I do have a problem getting one of the drums over the brake shoes so I need to investigate. Problem is backplates were from one axle, shoes relined but from another axle, wheel cylinders from yet another axle. All the parts should be interchangeable but something isn't quite right.

Ready for a freewheel hub or drive flange....
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2017/08/786.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/XXfp79)DSCN4464 (https://flic.kr/p/XXfp79) by Colin Radley (https://www.flickr.com/photos/152321353@N07/), on Flickr

Need to get this side 'sorted'
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2017/08/787.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/XP7XBi)DSCN4467 (https://flic.kr/p/XP7XBi) by Colin Radley (https://www.flickr.com/photos/152321353@N07/), on Flickr

Then looked at re-installing the fuel tank. I wanted to replace the piece of foam that sits round the filler & vent tubes. Stops dust dirt etc. getting in round the hole the pipes fit through but where to get one.....
Decided if I cut out a couple of pieces of aluminium I could clamp them either side of a piece of foam, compress it down and then cut with a sharp knife.

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2017/08/788.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/WKGirN)DSCN4480 (https://flic.kr/p/WKGirN) by Colin Radley (https://www.flickr.com/photos/152321353@N07/), on Flickr

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2017/08/789.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/WKGgZu)DSCN4481 (https://flic.kr/p/WKGgZu) by Colin Radley (https://www.flickr.com/photos/152321353@N07/), on Flickr

Probably could have made it a bit bigger & a bit neater but the principle works and it'll do......

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2017/08/790.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/WKGk7w)DSCN4482 (https://flic.kr/p/WKGk7w) by Colin Radley (https://www.flickr.com/photos/152321353@N07/), on Flickr

I have to get the front axle that's currently fitted out and install this one when finished so I made up a couple of dollys that will sit under the spring plates and when strapped in place will allow the axle to be rolled in & out under the vehicle.

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2017/08/791.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/Y2qQTK)DSCN4485 (https://flic.kr/p/Y2qQTK) by Colin Radley (https://www.flickr.com/photos/152321353@N07/), on Flickr

I could have just put wheels on and rolled the axles out & in but this way I don't have to lift the vehicle up so high because wheels aren't fitted and it will exit & enter from the side.

Colin

gromit

2nd October 2017, 06:57 PM

Uncovered the original rear axle (it had been fitted with a Salisbury when I got it) and moved it into the garage.

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2017/10/27.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/BX9evQ)DSCN4531 (https://flic.kr/p/BX9evQ) by Colin Radley (https://www.flickr.com/photos/152321353@N07/), on Flickr

Had to drill the heads off two of the countersunk screws holding the drums on, the others came out with a 'seeing to' with an impact driver. Drums rusted inside and the linings came off the shoes as I removed them.

Hopefully there is no water inside this one, fingers crossed, otherwise I'm looking for a diff again.....

Colin

gromit

14th October 2017, 09:18 PM

No water in the diff oil when drained so hopefully the diff is usable.

Managed to get some exchange brake shoes for $25 so time to strip & inspect.

Started stripping the axle and found this
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2017/10/349.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/ZqqnBR)DSCN4541 (https://flic.kr/p/ZqqnBR) by Colin Radley (https://www.flickr.com/photos/152321353@N07/), on Flickr

Looks like a hub may have come off at some point allowing the backplate to drag along the road. The inside of the drive flange was polished as though the hub nut had made contact.

Don't have a spare backplate so neatened this one with the help of an angle grinder.

Colin

gromit

21st October 2017, 07:07 PM

Stripped the rear axle and starting to paint it.

Removing paint from the axle casing I found this repair.
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2017/10/555.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/ZCC5yg)DSCN4545 (https://flic.kr/p/ZCC5yg) by Colin Radley (https://www.flickr.com/photos/152321353@N07/), on Flickr

I wonder how the damage happened ? Anyway, the diff looked in good condition so once the casing is painted I'll re-assemble.
Brake cylinders came up OK. Girling ones with hard chromed pistons but some corrosion in the bore so a quick hone and a new kit fitted with red rubber grease.

Just need to work out what to do with the brake drums. They need machining to remove corrosion so I might machine the faceplate of the lathe, drill some holes for mounting bolts and give it a go.....but maybe find out the cost for a brake joint to do the job first.

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2017/10/556.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/Cwvwcf)DSCN4547 (https://flic.kr/p/Cwvwcf) by Colin Radley (https://www.flickr.com/photos/152321353@N07/), on Flickr

Colin

gromit

4th November 2017, 04:04 PM

Rear axle is nearly finished.
Ended up getting the drums machined (BGT Brakes in Dandenong), just need to fit the shoes & drums.

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2017/11/84.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/213MEm9)DSCN4554 (https://flic.kr/p/213MEm9) by Colin Radley (https://www.flickr.com/photos/152321353@N07/), on Flickr

Decided the fuel tank was getting in my way in the garage so re-fitted it.

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2017/11/85.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/218Gyfr)DSCN4566 (https://flic.kr/p/218Gyfr) by Colin Radley (https://www.flickr.com/photos/152321353@N07/), on Flickr

Probably need to drop the other tank and check it out....

Found that the headlights & sidelights don't work so when I move it to fit the axles that's another thing I need to look at.

Colin

gromit

8th December 2017, 05:58 PM

Had some time during the week and thought I'd better look at the pinion seals on the axles, no drips but an unknown quantity.

One was leather and past it's use by date the other was a modern seal in a steel housing. An absolute pain to remove so I ended up unbolting the seal housing to drift them out then used the press to fit a modern replacement.
I had a couple of seals in stock but sourced a couple more from a local bearing supplier.

Undoing the nut

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2017/12/224.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/E9rjJj)DSCN4596 (https://flic.kr/p/E9rjJj) by Colin Radley (https://www.flickr.com/photos/152321353@N07/), on Flickr

Re-fitted using Permatex sealant on the brass shim. Not sure why it's a brass shim rather than a gasket but re-installed it.
Found that the mud shield sections were some distance apart on one axle so carefully tapped the shield so that the gap was reduced to a minimum to keep mud/dirt away from the seal.

Struggling for time at present so Corowa seems to be getting closer with little progress. need to get some sides on the shed, re-fit the hoops and track down where the new canopy is hiding.
Need to fit the axles, look at the engine (smoking a bit at present), fit replacement doors, change the windscreen frame, tidy the wiring, get the brakes working.......

There is then the trailer I've been gifted that needs modifying for the Series I (to get to Cooma), some minor work on the Series I, still haven't done the cambelt change on the Defender, the Dormobile has been on the backburner so need to get it mobile again.

Colin

gromit

3rd January 2018, 03:33 PM

Salisbury axle coming out.

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2018/01/70.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/21MJcKF)DSCN4610 (https://flic.kr/p/21MJcKF) by Colin Radley (https://www.flickr.com/photos/152321353@N07/), on Flickr

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2018/01/71.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/DtDAz6)DSCN4612 (https://flic.kr/p/DtDAz6) by Colin Radley (https://www.flickr.com/photos/152321353@N07/), on Flickr

Hard work single handed but nobody around to help, too busy on Facebook/Youtube. Usual problems with seized bolts etc., just need to find a suitable drive shaft for the Rover diff going back in.

The owner before the one I purchased the IIa from had swapped out both axles and decided on a Salisbury for the rear. Not sure about it's condition but the drive flanges have been welded to the drive shafts !!
Luckily the original axles came with the vehicle when purchased.

Colin

Homestar

3rd January 2018, 05:25 PM

About 70 days to Corowa - just sayin’ [emoji6]

gromit

3rd January 2018, 09:01 PM

About 70 days to Corowa - just sayin’ [emoji6]

I have that many jobs backing up that it will be touch & go. Priority is to get the trailer sorted for Cooma then there is a part built shed then sides need to be added to the shed where the IIa is stored.......I need to give up the day job, but hang on, then I won't have any money.....

Colin

gromit

4th January 2018, 08:33 PM

Got the original axle back in today.
One of the shackle bolts had siezed in the bush and sheared the rubber as I tried to undo it. Managed to drift the bolt out but had to install a new spring bush (all the others were OK).

Axle in then had to track down a replacement (longer) propshaft after removing the Salisbury axle. Found one but it had some play in one of the UJ's so I emptied out the back of the IIa because it came with a heap of spares in the back that I've never investigated. Found a propshaft with good UJ's so decided to clean the grease off each end, as I did this the seals on the UJ crumbled into pieces ! OK now I need to find some new UJ's, fortunately they are kept 'in stock' so another job to get the propshaft sorted.
The bolts holding the propshaft to diff were Whitworth, fully threaded. Not a good idea so I found some correct UNF bolts and used those.

Axle moved out of the garage.
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2018/01/108.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/F3eBX9)DSCN4618 (https://flic.kr/p/F3eBX9) by Colin Radley (https://www.flickr.com/photos/152321353@N07/), on Flickr

Ready to fit the wheels, drop to the floor & tighten all the leaf spring bolts.
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2018/01/109.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/226ggHW)DSCN4622 (https://flic.kr/p/226ggHW) by Colin Radley (https://www.flickr.com/photos/152321353@N07/), on Flickr

Having a rummage through all the spares in the back (which I need to find a home for) I found this
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2018/01/110.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/226gzHd)DSCN4621 (https://flic.kr/p/226gzHd) by Colin Radley (https://www.flickr.com/photos/152321353@N07/), on Flickr

That gauge in the middle looks interesting......didn't know I had it until a few hours ago.

Need to fit the front axle I've overhauled, then fix the leak on the steering box, remove & overhaul the pedal boxes, get the brakes working, fix a problem with the clutch, check the motor, sort a few electrical gremlins, remove the hardtop and re-fit the hood sticks & canopy.......

Colin

JDNSW

5th January 2018, 05:56 AM

As you have probably realised the gauge is a combined temperature/oil pressure one. I think they were fitted to all Army 2a vehicles up to suffix 'B'.

gromit

5th January 2018, 06:10 AM

As you have probably realised the gauge is a combined temperature/oil pressure one. I think they were fitted to all Army 2a vehicles up to suffix 'B'.

Thanks John,
I thought that maybe someone had added it after it left service.

Colin

JDNSW

5th January 2018, 09:23 AM

I guessed you were uncertain about this. They were a popular optional extra on civilian Landrovers in the same era, but never in that position - invariably on an extra sub-panel to the right of the instrument panel. From memory, standard, at least in Australia, on diesels. Probably put on the main panel for the army because the sub-panel was used for the blackout switch.

gromit

9th January 2018, 10:29 PM

I read somewhere that if you want to get a project finished you need to do something on it every single day. Physical work, tracking down parts, planning etc.

Anyway, I'm currently building a shed, modifying a car trailer and trying to get the IIa back on the road. I ordered sheeting for the shed today and steel for the trailer so I thought I'd better do something on the IIa.

I called into Four Wheel Drives and got some axle rebound straps (because I know that they have the correct length ones for an ex army LR).
I later got underneath and removed the front propshaft, thought I'd get it overhauled ready for when I re-install the original front axle. Once again, fully threaded Whitworth bolts at one end so I need to get some correct bolts. UJ's seemed OK but hopefully I'll clean it tomorrow & check it out further.

While lying under the vehicle a few more things to do came to mind.

I mentioned these before
Need to fit the front axle I've overhauled, then fix the leak on the steering box, remove & overhaul the pedal boxes, get the brakes working, fix a problem with the clutch, check the motor, sort a few electrical gremlins, remove the hardtop and re-fit the hood sticks & canopy.......

Added to the list :-
Remembered I have a re-cored radiator to install along with new hoses, current radiator leaks.
The engine has a few oil leaks (plus low oil pressure which is more worrying). Need to degrease the engine and track down the leaks.
Clutch slave & master cylinders need re-sealing or replacing. Clutch is stiff to operate so box may have to come out.
I need to obtain some tyres, would like bar treads but that isn't going to happen in the short term. Wheels have been shotblasted and are ready to paint.
I'm partway through rebuilding a pair of doors, these need to be finished & fitted.
There are a lot of nuts & bolts missing.
There is a hole in the exhaust pipe and the silencer box might need replacing.
It's probably worth investigating the steering relay (if I can get it out of the chassis) and all the track rod ends.
Need to empty out all the spares in the back and re-fit the correct windscreen (for the canopy).
Rear seats need some cushions made.

The list just keeps growing........

Colin

67hardtop

10th January 2018, 10:42 PM

Do you have a part number for the axle straps plz Colin?

Cheers Rod

gromit

11th January 2018, 06:27 AM

Do you have a part number for the axle straps plz Colin?

Cheers Rod

Rod,
Their part number is R24. Four Wheel Drives – Land Rover Spare Parts Specialists (http://www.forwardspares.com.au/)

If you want to make your own I can take some photos and confirm the length.

Colin

gromit

12th January 2018, 11:40 AM

Waiting for a Telstra Tech again.......four haven't fixed the problem, one didn't bother to show up, hopefully number six fixes things.

Decided to check the sliding joint on the front propshaft.

Seal was damaged and where the support split-washer had been stretched, I flattened it out but you can see in the photo what happens.

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2018/01/450.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/23oUo6i)DSCN4627 (https://flic.kr/p/23oUo6i) by Colin Radley (https://www.flickr.com/photos/152321353@N07/), on Flickr

Damaged seal top right, new seal top left, that strip of steel is the support washer !

Didn't take a good picture of the assembly but here is one from the Interweb with a felt seal.

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2018/01/451.jpg

Managed to straighten out the support washer, the other strip of steel is a washer from another propshaft. All assembled now.

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2018/01/452.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/Fg8hCm)DSCN4629 (https://flic.kr/p/Fg8hCm) by Colin Radley (https://www.flickr.com/photos/152321353@N07/), on Flickr

Colin

gromit

7th April 2018, 05:41 PM

Didn't even get close to finishing the IIa for Corowa, too busy working on a trailer to get the Series I to Cooma. Now that's over I need to get back to work on the IIa and the Dormobile.

I re-attached the door skins to the spare doors I've been working on. Used some polyurethane sealant/adhesive then folded over the edge of the skin. A couple of pop-rivets along the top edge but what about round the door handle......solid rivets originally.

I found a rivet 'set' I've had for years, had to open it out a bit with a Dremel to fit the rivet heads. Rivets.......I got some from a chap a few years back who worked at Regent motors assembling Series I's.

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2018/04/303.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/GfzSzp)DSCN4694 (https://flic.kr/p/GfzSzp) by Colin Radley (https://www.flickr.com/photos/152321353@N07/), on Flickr

One of my boys held the door with the rivet head in the 'set' and I flattened the back of the rivet.

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2018/04/304.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/HLUWVy)DSCN4693 (https://flic.kr/p/HLUWVy) by Colin Radley (https://www.flickr.com/photos/152321353@N07/), on Flickr

The frame was painted ages ago and the skin is in etch primer. Need to check the skin, fill in a few minor dents, primer/filler then apply some olive drab.

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2018/04/305.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/25QXdC3)DSCN4695 (https://flic.kr/p/25QXdC3) by Colin Radley (https://www.flickr.com/photos/152321353@N07/), on Flickr

Colin

grey_ghost

8th April 2018, 09:17 AM

Hi Colin,
What type or brand of bog do you use? I am thinking of bogging some hail damage on one of my projected, but not sure which brand is best...?

gromit

8th April 2018, 07:16 PM

Hi Colin,
What type or brand of bog do you use? I am thinking of bogging some hail damage on one of my projected, but not sure which brand is best...?

I try not to use 'bog', the red you see in the picture is a cellulose putty which is only for small imperfections.
It dries quickly, doesn't shrink but you can't put it on too thick.

Isopon P38 is good, my local paint supplier recommends it (plus I used to use it in the UK years ago). I'm sure there are lots of alternatives. The usual issue is getting the mix right.....too much hardener and it sets before you've finished ! Too little and it takes ages to set.

Painted the doors today and one side of 4 wheel rims. No room under cover so painting done outside.

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2018/04/313.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/23bSwWE)DSCN4698 (https://flic.kr/p/23bSwWE) by Colin Radley (https://www.flickr.com/photos/152321353@N07/), on Flickr

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2018/04/314.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/25WL2sc)DSCN4697 (https://flic.kr/p/25WL2sc) by Colin Radley (https://www.flickr.com/photos/152321353@N07/), on Flickr

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2018/04/315.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/23bSCwh)DSCN4700 (https://flic.kr/p/23bSCwh) by Colin Radley (https://www.flickr.com/photos/152321353@N07/), on Flickr

The Protec paint is an alkyd enamel which thins with Toluene. I find it's touch dry very quickly but has to be left overnight to harden so if I get home early enough tomorrow the other side of the wheels will be painted.

Colin

gromit

29th April 2018, 04:15 PM

Finished painting the wheels some weeks back, just need to find some tyres. I'd love to get some bar treads but I get the impression they are a bit expensive unless someone has found a supplier other than Antique Tyres. I'll probably fit some Road Grippers.

Slowly stripping out the old front axle and painting any parts that are being re-used. Axle is in the garage ready to install.

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2018/04/909.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/25gRFFz)DSCN4772 (https://flic.kr/p/25gRFFz) by Colin Radley (https://www.flickr.com/photos/152321353@N07/), on Flickr

Colin

gromit

5th May 2018, 03:35 PM

A few bolts holding the springs in place proved difficult, one will have to be cut through but fortunately I have a spare.

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2018/05/49.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/25t8afB)DSCN4785 (https://flic.kr/p/25t8afB) by Colin Radley (https://www.flickr.com/photos/152321353@N07/), on Flickr

Axle ready to drag out.

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2018/05/50.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/25KdQFJ)DSCN4790 (https://flic.kr/p/25KdQFJ) by Colin Radley (https://www.flickr.com/photos/152321353@N07/), on Flickr

Springs need to be wire brushed & painted. Need to find another longitudinal steering tube (the long one between the hub steering arms), the axle that came out has the steering arms on the top and the one that's going it has the arms on bottom which means the tube length changes !

U-bolts, shock absorbers, drag link tube etc. have been painted ready for re-assembly.

Colin

gromit

6th May 2018, 05:42 PM

Cleaned up the leaf springs & fitted new bushes.
I've mentioned this in other threads.....don't lubricate the bushes being fitted to the leaf springs.
The eye of the spring can open to accept the bush so lubricant is not needed and lubricating can lead to problems down the track. The leaf spring sometimes moves on the bush and clonks rather loudly on cornering.

I'll paint the springs during the week. I always intend to separate the spring pack but as I don't have an oxy set to heat up & open/close the spring clamps I resisted the temptation.

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2018/05/64.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/JJTN53)DSCN4795 (https://flic.kr/p/JJTN53) by Colin Radley (https://www.flickr.com/photos/152321353@N07/), on Flickr

Colin

gromit

13th May 2018, 05:46 PM

Reconditioned axle ready to install.
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2018/05/201.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/24mjwS7)DSCN4803 (https://flic.kr/p/24mjwS7) by Colin Radley (https://www.flickr.com/photos/152321353@N07/), on Flickr

The old axle has gone under a tarp. One swivel is very tight so I suspect the swivel pin in the Railco has rusted.

Managed to move the reco axle from one end of the property to the other on my own. Everyone else inside watching Youtube or on Facebook !
Springs, brackets etc. all painted so just need to find some time to install.

Colin

gromit

4th August 2018, 04:13 PM

Found some spare time today so decided to remove the steering box because all the oil had escaped.

Had a couple of difficult bolts but once everything is undone its easy to get out from under the wing if you take the mounting brackets off as well. Drop it down a bit, rotate the shaft downwards and catch the brackets as they fall off, then out she comes.

https://farm2.staticflickr.com/1812/42028733260_f42ccc6961_z.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/272Wf95)DSCN4889 (https://flic.kr/p/272Wf95) by Colin Radley (https://www.flickr.com/photos/152321353@N07/), on Flickr

https://farm2.staticflickr.com/1814/29967222588_f16476fcde_z.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/ME6Rew)DSCN4891 (https://flic.kr/p/ME6Rew) by Colin Radley (https://www.flickr.com/photos/152321353@N07/), on Flickr

All the bolts holding the steering box in place were loose (but tab washers folded up to stop nuts coming undone ?) and it had been fretting against the mounting bracket. When I turned it by hand it didn't feel too good, stiff then slack then crunchy........ so I 'll have to take it apart and see if I need to look for another one.

Steering wheel needs repairing & re-painting then I'll have to try and get the relay out of the chassis.

Colin

gromit

4th August 2018, 07:41 PM

Had a look inside the steering box and there was still some oil in there, no rust.
Might just be the two thrust bearings that need to be replaced. Had a look at the overhaul kits Series 2 2A 3 Steering Box Repair Kit - Paddock Spares (http://www.paddockspares.com/series-3-steering-box-repair-kit.html)

Cups & balls for thrust bearings, balls for inside the nut, O-ring, gaskets but no shims to set the pre-load up !
Had a look in the parts manual and it lists 'Joint washer steel', and two different part numbers for 'Joint washer paper'.

Hmmmm, I'll have a look down the back shed tomorrow and see if I have a better steering assembly.

Colin

67hardtop

4th August 2018, 07:51 PM

gromit

4th August 2018, 08:49 PM

Hi Colin, dont pull the washer out where the oring is as its staked in place. Use a pick tool to remove the oring. There isnt enough material to restake the washer if u remove it. I buggered my box up by removing the washer.

Cheers Rod

Thanks Rod,
I've done several now and pick the old (rock hard) O-ring out.
Replacements are a few cents at my local O-ring supplier, I actually keep them in-stock !

I think the thrust bearings are brinelled as the steering feels 'rough', doesn't look like they have rusted.

I have a feeling that I have a spare Series II assembly so I'll check it out tomorrow but will still look at reconditioning this one for another project (?!).

Colin

67hardtop

4th August 2018, 09:02 PM

Ok Colin. Cheers mate.
Rod

gromit

5th August 2018, 07:43 PM

Found another Series IIa steering assembly.
Remembered that it came with a Series IIa bulkhead I purchased years ago, it was still attached and the chap that sold it to me mentioned trying to get it off & running out of time.
Turned OK without any odd noises.

The aluminium body of the box itself was very clean. When I opened it up the oil was fairly clean, there was still grease where the balls for the bearings were held in place and the O-ring was still soft. May have been reconditioned at some point in it's life....

https://farm2.staticflickr.com/1833/29989583598_839f6535f0_z.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/MG5sob)DSCN4895 (https://flic.kr/p/MG5sob) by Colin Radley (https://www.flickr.com/photos/152321353@N07/), on Flickr

Anyway, I replaced the O-ring and fitted a new gasket. A couple of bolts are missing which I'll have to replace then it's time to clean & paint.

https://farm1.staticflickr.com/851/28922715147_0a95014839_z.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/L4Ntyx)DSCN4897 (https://flic.kr/p/L4Ntyx) by Colin Radley (https://www.flickr.com/photos/152321353@N07/), on Flickr

I'll see if I can get some parts to overhaul the original so that I have a spare.

Colin

Lionelgee

7th August 2018, 06:55 PM

Hello Colin & Rod,

Gee ruining a steering box just because a washer was pulled out instead of picking out an "O" Ring seems very drastic to me!

I intend working on mine this coming weekend and they reckon fore-warned is fore-armed!

Could either of you post up a photograph of where the washer and "O" ring is located on/in the steering assembly?

What would the part number and parts manual section be to look the parts up?

Kind regards

Lionel

gromit

8th August 2018, 05:31 AM

Found this picture on the interweb.....
http://3.bp.blogspot.com/_uxuZhiFsxcU/TCHBd8dAltI/AAAAAAAAAOk/It98hR5-Ev4/s1600/P1010232.JPG

Parts books list the retaining washer which is 'staked' in-place. I thought the first time round that I had to replace the washer but all you have to do is pick out the old O-ring.

All the usual suspects would keep the O-ring, if yours comes out intact you could take it to an O-ring supplier and they will match it.

Colin

Lionelgee

8th August 2018, 06:27 PM

Hello Colin,

Thank you for taking the time to find a photo of where the "O" washer is staked. Could you please put a red arrow pointing to the same part on your earlier photograph of two steering columns? Thank you.

My rough approximation makes the flange looking similar to the bolted plate located on top of the steering box's main assembly. It then transitions into the steer column rod that travels up to link to the steering wheel. Is this correct? Or am I wide of the mark?

There is no hurry though - it is going to be 5 degrees C tonight so I am not going to go out to the paddock and check things out very soon. Brrrr I have been living too long in Queensland for that caper. I moved from a cold part of NSW for a reason. I did write "cold" somewhere here didn't I? :0)

Kind regards
Lionel

gromit

8th August 2018, 08:18 PM

Lionel,
The O-ring is the seal for the output shaft from the steering box.

Colin

gromit

9th August 2018, 04:22 PM

Managed to get some shims today (from someone who used to wreck Land Rovers) and some digging around seriously makes me wonder about the steering box overhaul kits you can buy.
I haven't checked the 'notchy' one yet but if grooves wear in the bearing cups the inner column should also get damaged (unless the hardness is different to the bearing cups).

Found the picture below on the Interweb

http://1.bp.blogspot.com/_uxuZhiFsxcU/TCCti_cvqWI/AAAAAAAAAOU/VdOEBiYM190/s1600/P1010228.JPG

If the bearing surfaces on the inner column are damaged then there is no point fitting new ball bearings & outer race.

Parts are expensive at about $600 for the inner column and $1200 for a complete steering box & column......cheaper to buy a 'spares car'.
Land Rover Parts - STEERING BOX (https://www.britishautoparts.com.au/steering_box)

At least I have one that's OK for now, I'll investigate the notchy one and see if it can be fixed.

Colin

gromit

13th August 2018, 08:27 PM

Spare steering assembly painted and ready to fit so I thought I'd strip the notchy one.

Came apart easily but may be a bit more difficult to get back together....
https://farm2.staticflickr.com/1800/30142575548_ccc180892c_c.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/MVAzyq)DSCN4903 (https://flic.kr/p/MVAzyq) by Colin Radley (https://www.flickr.com/photos/152321353@N07/), on Flickr

As expected the main shaft & bearing cups were damaged. No point in fitting an 'overhaul kit' unless something can be done with the shaft.
https://farm2.staticflickr.com/1799/42201937440_2589e9bb3b_c.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/27ieXH3)DSCN4907 (https://flic.kr/p/27ieXH3) by Colin Radley (https://www.flickr.com/photos/152321353@N07/), on Flickr
https://farm2.staticflickr.com/1836/29074080477_dd13841c5e_c.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/LibgcB)DSCN4906 (https://flic.kr/p/LibgcB) by Colin Radley (https://www.flickr.com/photos/152321353@N07/), on Flickr
https://farm1.staticflickr.com/932/44011152441_bdd0e1e19b_c.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/2a47Ei8)DSCN4902 (https://flic.kr/p/2a47Ei8) by Colin Radley (https://www.flickr.com/photos/152321353@N07/), on Flickr

Lucky I had a spare....!

Homestar

14th August 2018, 07:55 AM

Yea, I've found you need at least 3 hands reassembling them. [biggrin]

Lucky you had a spare, that one is one is pretty bad. The 2 I've done were both in good condition thankfully.

Lionelgee

14th August 2018, 06:48 PM

JDNSW

14th August 2018, 07:40 PM

gromit

14th August 2018, 09:32 PM

I suspect that the damage to that box is corrosion, the result of running it with water instead of oil as the lubricant, or just possibly, the result of running it dry.

In sixty years of driving Series Landrovers I have yet to encounter anything like that, possibly because none of the ones I have driven have been left standing for long periods.

John,

Seems odd that the pitting is only on the bearing surfaces, no signs of rust anywhere.
There were still signs of the grease used during re-assembly and the oil had run out past the O-ring but there was still some left and no signs of water.

Ex military and almost as it left service so probably last overhauled by the Army.

Because it has the horn push in the centre I did wonder if the horn had been earthing through the bearings. Either through a dirty slip-ring or the wire disconnected interestingly there is a modern connector on the wire to the slip-ring.
Ball bearings are unmarked but I haven't checked for roundness.
If earthing then the bearing at the top of the column would also be damaged.

Could also be way too much pre-load when it was overhauled.

Anyway, need to look for another steering assembly. My theory is that if you have a spare that part will never fail on the vehicle.

Colin

JDNSW

15th August 2018, 05:30 AM

Yes, if there is no sign of corrosion, you would have to think of other causes, and probably the most likely is, as you suggest, excess preload.

gromit

1st October 2018, 07:28 PM

Found another steering column from a wreck, standing outside for years but all OK except one bearing cup pitted.

Assembling the main nut, ball bearings held in place with grease. Also the top race assembled with it's ball bearings.
https://farm2.staticflickr.com/1943/44979951222_ebb27ab2f1_c.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/2bwJ1qo)DSCN4937 (https://flic.kr/p/2bwJ1qo) by Colin Radley (https://www.flickr.com/photos/152321353@N07/), on Flickr

Shaft assembled through main nut, cup in top recess and column sealed & bolted in place.
https://farm2.staticflickr.com/1976/43216661060_48762e60ac_c.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/28QUFFS)DSCN4939 (https://flic.kr/p/28QUFFS) by Colin Radley (https://www.flickr.com/photos/152321353@N07/), on Flickr

Lower cup with ball bearings held in place with grease pressed into position and using endplate & a variety of shims endfloat set. This is trial & error, bolting the endplate on then checking for play, removing and trying again juggling with shims.
https://farm2.staticflickr.com/1950/31155233818_514104a7a8_c.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/Pt5HzL)DSCN4940 (https://flic.kr/p/Pt5HzL) by Colin Radley (https://www.flickr.com/photos/152321353@N07/), on Flickr

Finally rocker shaft assembled and ready for a new gasket and the sideplate to be fitted. Roller for main nut not fitted in this picture (but was before the endplate was fitted !)
https://farm2.staticflickr.com/1909/44308602004_5b7955a047_c.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/2avpaFS)DSCN4941 (https://flic.kr/p/2avpaFS) by Colin Radley (https://www.flickr.com/photos/152321353@N07/), on Flickr

I used Permatex No1 rather than the thin gaskets at each end.
Now filled with EP75W90 GL4.

This is a spare but when I get a moment I'll paint it. That way in years to come I might remember it's been overhauled.......

Colin

gromit

9th October 2018, 09:12 AM

Picked up a set of 7.50 X 16 Road Grippers last night, had to pop down to Phillip Island to collect.
Troopy ‘take offs’ complete with split rims, new but have sat in a garage for 2-3 years.

I’d like to put a set of bar treads on this one but the cost put me off. Might consider it in the future.

So I’ll take the Road Grippers & my LR rims to the tyre guy I use. Then try & sell the Troopy rims & tubes which aren’t worth much unfortunately.

Colin

67hardtop

9th October 2018, 09:25 AM

gromit

9th October 2018, 11:04 AM

Ive got those road grippers on my perentie Colin. They seem to be ok. Do those tubes have a long brass valve on them? Its possible to cut them out and have tr15 valves glued on. Tho i think it could be a weak spot. I tried to mount them on tubeless onto a d1 rim but it went down coz they're designed to be tubed. Good luck with them. They are getting expensive to buy now coz ppl know us landy nuts want them. Cant get them locally for less than $150 a rim n tyre. Just a bit too much i think.

Cheers Rod

Rod,
The valve stems are angled and quite long. New tubes are $25 and I only paid $300 for the 5 tyres !
The last ones I found were about $175 each but were brand new
I already have 3 Land Rovers with Road Grippers fitted. I understand the Troopys don’t have them fitted any longer so the supply will slowly dry up.....

Colin

67hardtop

9th October 2018, 12:50 PM

Yeah Colin i paid $700 for 5 tyres and one rim. They hsd been roaded except for the spare which was still on the rim. I got ripped off but they were the cheapest available at the time. Heard of ppl buying sets of 5 for $100. Wish i could have. But this is Adelaide and theres not as much stuff around as bigger cities. Supply is definatly low here.

Cheers Rod

cjc_td5

9th October 2018, 01:23 PM

There used to be heaps of 2nd hand 205r16 tyres around when hiluxes et al had them from new. They were a great size for a SWB landy, equivalent to 6.5r16. Sadly, they are longer around on gumtree etc as the new utes have gone to bigger tyres from the factory.

gromit

5th November 2018, 06:57 PM

I removed the radiator & front panel a while ago, today......the steering relay had to come out.

I soaked it in WD40 a few days ago then started with a couple of crowbars (wrecking bars) and various pieces of steel to lever against.
Managed to get it rocking left & right and very, very slowly it came up.

https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4806/45728696201_85a6deb8d2_z.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/2cETwdz)DSCN4973 (https://flic.kr/p/2cETwdz) by Colin Radley (https://www.flickr.com/photos/152321353@N07/), on Flickr

As it came up I fished around in the gap between the relay & the tube in the crossmember with a piece of wire to remove the rust & dirt.
Raised it a bit more and fished out more dirt.
Finally it came out.

https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4819/43911111030_3aca6a160c_z.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/29UgVtd)DSCN4974 (https://flic.kr/p/29UgVtd) by Colin Radley (https://www.flickr.com/photos/152321353@N07/), on Flickr

Found it had been packed with grease ! This has led to the washers the springs push against, the shaft and also the spring rusting. The grease also makes it a PITA to clean......

https://farm2.staticflickr.com/1903/45003666584_3e54e54762_z.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/2byPyaW)DSCN4975 (https://flic.kr/p/2byPyaW) by Colin Radley (https://www.flickr.com/photos/152321353@N07/), on Flickr

One broken bolt (one of those small headed ones that hold the endcap on !), the shaft needs the seal surfaces skimmed and also some rust removed where the Tufnol bushes rub. A couple of new seals & gaskets and this time it will get filled with oil !
I have a couple of relays that have been refurbished but this one will be straightforward to repair.

The radiator has a leak in the top tank, I'll probably have a go at soldering it up as a trip to the radiator specialist will lighten the wallet too much.
I do have a spare radiator purchased some time back that has been recored but I'll try fixing this one first.

Found an incorrect track rod end fitted to the link from the steering box to the relay so need to buy a replacement.

Wheels & tyres ready to fit.

https://farm2.staticflickr.com/1938/43911237850_6ea844684c_z.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/29UhzaL)DSCN4960 (https://flic.kr/p/29UhzaL) by Colin Radley (https://www.flickr.com/photos/152321353@N07/), on Flickr

Colin

67hardtop

5th November 2018, 08:40 PM

Hi Colin, did ur relay have a grease nipple on the top? I have a relay out of a 2a ex military in my 2a and it had a grease nipple on top.

gromit

6th November 2018, 06:38 AM

Hi Colin, did ur relay have a grease nipple on the top? I have a relay out of a 2a ex military in my 2a and it had a grease nipple on top.

No grease nipple on this one Rod.

You wonder why they switch from oil to grease because it's not hard to remove the lower plate, replace the seal & re-fit. I did that on my Series I a while back.

Looks like thunderstorms today so maybe I'll get the shaft on the lathe & clean up where the seal bears. The diameter obviously reduces a bit but the seal still seals OK.

Colin

gromit

26th November 2018, 04:00 PM

On to the next problem....

The radiator has had a leak in the top tank since I got the IIa, as I currently have the front panel out I thought I'd investigate over the weekend.
In the past I made a couple of plugs on short hoses, one has a Schrader valve the other a low pressure gauge. Clamped them on and got the bike pump out.....wouldn't hold pressure for long. Sprayed some soapy water around and found the solder had let go on the top tank for about 2-3 inches.

Took it to Dandy Radiators today and after a chat with them they said they could just unsolder, clean & re-solder the top tank and it wouldn't be too expensive. Got a phone call earlier to say that the core has had it and a re-core will be about $700 if I want to go ahead. They are happy for me to pay for the labour/solder so far and collect it if I don't want to go ahead so........I'm on the lookout for a radiator (so much for a low cost rebuild !) while I deliberate over spending out on a re-core.

https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4834/46004366572_4d20fc14e6_z.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/2d6fpq1)DSCN4982 (https://flic.kr/p/2d6fpq1) by Colin Radley (https://www.flickr.com/photos/152321353@N07/), on Flickr

Wanted advert posted in Markets
Series IIa radiator wanted (https://www.aulro.com/afvb/wanted-adverts/266803-series-iia-radiator-wanted.html)

Colin

gromit

21st January 2019, 07:04 AM

Not much work done on the IIa for a while now because I've been working on a shed to protect it from the elements.

It's been parked (for some years) under a lean to, which is open on 3 sides so the birds roost on it, the dust blows in and during heavy rain parts of it get wet. I have a new canopy purchased some years back and I want to tidy up the paintwork so I need it better protected.

Over Christmas I dug footings, poured concrete and laid a few courses of bricks. I'm in the process of making door frames, there are a couple of window frames (from someone's hard rubbish) to install then I need to buy some zincalume to clad it all.

I need to get the steering relay back in and re-fit the front panel & replacement radiator (thanks to Goingbush) then I can move it out and level the floor of the shed. It'll either get a crushed rock floor or maybe concrete, time & spare cash dependant.

Looks like it will miss another Corowa........it'll get there one year I'm sure.

Colin

gromit

1st September 2019, 03:58 PM

Front panel & radiator are back in but the wings are looking shabby.

About 15 layers of camo green paint on top of the original green. Problem is the prep work by the Army wasn't too good so the camo green is lifting off in sheets.

One wing is off and I've started the task of stripping back to bare metal. Found some bog a few layers of paint down, no real need for it and a bit of panel beating will get rid of the small dents. It takes a while to remove bog with paint stripper !

I'm not sure how far I'll go with the paint stripping, the whole vehicle really needs doing......

The blackout light is past it's use by date. Rusted quite badly but I could paint and re-fit it if I can't find a replacement.

Colin

Homestar

1st September 2019, 08:51 PM

One more coat and lay it on thick. Will last another few years. 😉

gromit

2nd September 2019, 07:43 AM

One more coat and lay it on thick. Will last another few years. 😉

I did consider just re-painting.
The toolholders sit in a recess of about 1mm due to the multi layers of paint. The paint is coming off in sheets, every stone chip has let the weather get under and the paint is lifting.
Doors have already been stripped & re-painted so I'll do the exposed areas of the bulkhead and the wings at least.

I need some sides on the shed then I can fit the new canopy. Birds are roosting on the hardtop at the moment !

Colin

gromit

8th September 2019, 04:16 PM

The drivers side wing is stripped back, just some minor panel beating to get it straight now the bog has been removed.

The blackout light was past it's prime, full of rust and most of it beyond repair. I need a replacement if anyone has a spare Blackout light for IIa (https://www.aulro.com/afvb/wanted-adverts/273913-blackout-light-iia.html)

I ended up removing the outer panel of the wing, the gap between the outer & wing top was all over the place. In a few spots you could post a letter through the gap......time for some more panel beating.

All the toolholders, TAC holder etc. are stripped & ready to paint. I may use a rattle can for some of the smaller parts, Eastern Auto Paints in Bayswater carry cans.

Colin

gromit

29th December 2019, 08:23 PM

Still on the lookout for a blackout light but the drivers side wing is back on and a replacement door & door top fitted (these were spares repaired & re-painted years ago).

Started work on the passenger side wing and began removing 15 or so layers of paint. I found that with a sharp scraper blade I can get underneath a couple of layers of paint and it lifts off. You can see prep marks in the layer underneath but the paint had never stuck properly.
The outer wing panel has been removed to panel beat out some dents. There is a riveted reinforcement patch on wheel arch but it was riveted over layers of bog !! Removed the patch, removed the bog, re-worked the area to get it flat and re-installed the patch.

There is another patch at the lower edge of the wing. this lines up with a long patch along the lower edge of the tub. Maybe in-service damage and the door was replaced ?

I'd love to get this ready for Corowa 2020 but I have that many projects of SWMBO's to finish first. Repair part of the pool deck, paint the spouting, Lillydale toppings on the drive and more mulch around the garden. Weather tomorrow not suitable for working outside so maybe some paint removal in the shade somewhere where she can't find me.

Colin

gromit

2nd January 2020, 05:45 AM

Worst of the dents removed, it's surprising the amount of damage that 15 or so coats of olive drab can cover up.....

This outer wing had a large dent in the front, a crease down it's length and many smaller dents & imperfections. It had been hit with a grinder at some point and bogged up, possibly in service ?
The inner wing had a couple of creases which were persuaded away but otherwise wasn't too bad.

It's not perfect but better than when I started and will have no bog.

Off to work for the next couple of days for stocktake then back off till after Australia Day [bigrolf]

Colin

gromit

23rd May 2021, 06:10 PM

Fitted the bumper & brushbar to my FFR and while in the mood decided to fit the bumper & brushbar to the IIa.

The IIa started OK so moved it out of the shed and re-fitted the parts (painted some time ago). Managed to find the bolts this time so although the sun was setting it was a fairly quick job, Just need to touch up the bolt heads at a later date.

Floor panels have been painted (temporary ones fitted at the moment) so need to brush paint a few joints then re-fit.
Bonnet needs to be stripped & painted at some point.

Grille has also been painted so need fit this, tidy the wiring at the front, fit a few lenses and go through all the parts in the back.
It came with a heap of spares plus the hood bows which will need cleaning & painting then I can finally fit the new hood.

Colin

gromit

27th August 2023, 08:11 PM

Well the sun was out, I managed to get the grass cut yesterday so I had some Land Rover time !

The IIa hasn't been out for a while so I moved it out of it's shed and down to the garage, the aim was to tidy the electrics at the front.

The brakes work but the pedal is low, I need to replace the brake fluid so I'll do that next sunny weekend and see if i can get the pedal higher. Probably worth pulling all the brake drums and checking everything again.

I managed to attach the wiring loom to the inner wing.
Sidelights and indicators worked (but I need to replace the flasher can), missing volts at the headlamp connections so I need to check the dipswitch and headlamp switch. Probably also the blackout switch.

The drivers door top hinge needs packing out, not sure why but I've had to do this on other vehicles. It closes too tightly on one of the seals.

The front seats need re-covering plus I need to make cushions for the rear seats.
Then the hardtop needs removing so I can re-fit the hoops which are in the back along with a lot of spares parts I need to find a home for !

Washed the dust off it an put it away in the shed.

Colin

gromit

17th September 2023, 05:35 PM

Lionelgee

17th September 2023, 07:06 PM

I noticed that the dipstick holder had broken free on the LH tank so I decided to remove the tank, clean, fix the dipstick holder and paint.

One of those jobs I wish I hadn't started !
Dropped the tank and found that it had separated from the cradle it's soldered to.

Looks like there was quite a gap between cradle & tank with solder really only holding around the edges and the holes through the cradle. The gap held water and caused corrosion.
I've melted off the solder 'bosses' and the solder around the edges. I'll de-rust, paint and Sikaflex the tank to the cradle then solder the dipstick holder back in place.

Colin

G'day Colin,

What Sikaflex product in particular will you use to secure the tank with? Will you re-solder the edges to maintain the tank's original appearance? Last of multitudinous questions. Will you be lining the inside of the tank with a commercial sealing product - if so what one?

Kind regards
Lionel

gromit

17th September 2023, 09:13 PM

G'day Colin,

What Sikaflex product in particular will you use to secure the tank with? Will you re-solder the edges to maintain the tank's original appearance? Last of multitudinous questions. Will you be lining the inside of the tank with a commercial sealing product - if so what one?

Kind regards
Lionel

Haven't chosen which Sikaflex yet, a trip to Bunnings on the way to work tomorrow. 221 looks OK.
You can't see the solder under the paint so just Sikaflex. Soldering the edge would cause problems with the Sikaflex anyway !
Inside of the tank is rust free.

Colin

gromit

22nd September 2023, 08:22 PM

I cleaned & neutralised the rust on the cradle and the area where the cradle attaches to the tank.
Then out with the paint stripper.
The black paint on the tank came off easily but the camo green areas where the IIa had been repainted multiple times took a few coats of paint stripper and a lot of scraping.
Tonight I primered the cradle and underside of the tank ready for the Sikaflex.
Next it was time to solder the dip tube back. As it's close to the sender I thought best to remove the sender and re-fit it with a new gasket afterwards.
4 screws came undone easily, two were stiff so by carefully rotating backwards & forwards one came out and the other one.....sheared off !!!

Determined that the screws are 3BA and luckily had a tap & die.
Centre punched & drilled the broken screw with bigger & bigger drills then ran the tap down and cleaned out the remainder of the screw.
Cleaned the other holes and the screws with tap & die.
Soldered the dip tube back in place.
Made a new gasket then hunted through a box of Land Rover screws and found a 3BA cheesehead screw to match the others.

Hopefully I'll Sikaflex the tank back in the cradle over the weekend, need to dig out some clamps to hold everything in place while the Sikflex cures.

Colin

gromit

27th September 2023, 05:46 PM

The tank is now 'glued' back into the cradle.
Etch primered tonight ready for painting over the long weekend.

The inside is spotless, looks like the Army fitted a new tank but it was never filled.

Colin

gromit

29th October 2023, 06:24 AM

Refitted the fuel tank yesterday.
I've always struggled with a piece of wood on a trolley jack to get tanks out & back in.
I remembered a hydraulic lifting trolley that I inherited from my father in law, using that made it so much easier.

The bonnet was removed for stripping and replaced with a spare. Now I just need to remove multiple layers of olive drab paint !

Lots of work round the property to do now so it may take a while to get the bonnet painted and back in place.
Trees to cut, downpipes & spouting to replace.......it never ends.

Colin

gromit

11th November 2023, 04:41 PM

After a lot of paint stripper and a lot of scraping I've managed to remove multiple coats of Olive Drab.

I've sanded the paint on the underside rather than strip it.
Just need to panel beat a couple of minor dents, rivet the spare wheel mount back on then it needs to be sprayed.

Colin

gromit

24th December 2023, 07:05 PM

Manged to find time to rivet the spare wheel mount back on.

I was hoping to do a lot of work on Land Rovers over the Christmas break, instead I've worked in the garden, replaced a spouting downpipe (fun making the dog-leg, but worked out OK), tidied up spare parts that are building up (need some more shelving)......

Anyway, made a heavy rivet set out of some 4140 steel so I could do the riveting single handed.
Hoping to do some spray painting but the rain is back so I can't work outside.

Hopefully some Land Rover parts as presents tomorrow.

Colin

gromit

3rd February 2024, 02:32 PM

Bonnet painted and re-installed.
Scone cutters removed, stripped & repainted. Need to paint the rear crossmember before they are re-installed.

Colin

gromit

14th July 2024, 05:15 PM

Dropped the sump and removed the bigend shells. One had a strange wear pattern.
Turns out it's an early engine with the small journals so the shells ordered for a late model didn't fit. Luckily I found a set to fit.

Carved the sludge out of the sump pan then cleaned & painted it.

All back together with fresh oil and it wouldn't start. We have a collection of secondhand batteries the young bloke brought home from work, each one failed fairly quickly and there was a lot of cursing changing batteries. Eventually I found one that would turn the engine over for more than a few seconds.
Usual routine is fuel down the carby and she starts & runs OK.

Eventually found the fuel pump wasn't pumping. Went to overhaul it and found that being aftermarket the valves didn't match those in a LR kit !
Found another pump, didn't pump. Changed the diaphragm & replaced the valves.
Fitted and pumped fuel through manually, it still wouldn't start. Top off the carby and float needle stuck !
Still wouldn't start, check for spark and no spark.
Ended up hot wiring the coil direct to the battery.

Started & runs again.
Next job, find out why there is no power to the coil now !!

On the plus side I collected a heap of NOS nuts & bolts relating to Land Rovers on Saturday, even included some BSF bolts & nylocks :)

Colin

4bee

14th July 2024, 05:57 PM

gromit

15th July 2024, 05:39 AM

Colin, I really admire the way you get stuck into a seemingly ,yard full of vehicles with your trouble shooting & solutions becoming a great model for like minded Colin Wannabees 20/10 from me.[biggrin]

There were a few times as I carried dead batteries one way down the garden and replacement batteries the other way that I thought about a new hobby. This was reinforced by problem after problem trying to get it started, rolling around on a tarp (dirt floor) with oil/petrol dripping on me......

Stamp collecting maybe ?

Colin

Lionelgee

15th July 2024, 07:38 AM

There were a few times as I carried dead batteries one way down the garden and replacement batteries the other way that I thought about a new hobby. This was reinforced by problem after problem trying to get it started, rolling around on a tarp (dirt floor) with oil/petrol dripping on me......

Stamp collecting maybe ?

Colin

Hello Colin,

Were there many stamps issued with Land Rovers on them? Tee-hee!

Kind regards
Lionel

4bee

15th July 2024, 11:02 AM

gromit

20th July 2024, 02:45 PM

Miserable weather today, decided to drop the starter motor. It was hanging up while I was struggling to get it started last week.

It looked as though it had been reconditioned at some point.
Bendix spring was clean & shiny but when I stripped the throw-out there was a lot of grease/oil.
Degreased & re-assembled with graphite powder as lubricant.

Didn't bother to strip it right down as the brushes had plenty of meat and the commutator looked OK.

I'll re-install when the paint I applied has dried.

Colin

gromit

7th August 2024, 07:06 AM

Went through the parts in the back of the IIa GS, I've owned it for years and never sorted though everything.
Problem is I now need to find a home for all this stuff !

There's a Station Wagon fuel tank, I already have a spare.
Found 4 different brake servo's, might be worth getting one overhauled.
A couple of pedal boxes.
A spare fuel tank changeover valve.
All the hood sticks (the hardtop is surplus to requirements and needs to come off soon). I already have a new canopy.
Pintle hitch and mounting plate.
Two windscreen frames, one has the 'teeth' for the canopy so once I've checked the glass I'll swap over with the one fitted.
Lots of bits & pieces, the old rotten canopy, a fume curtain which will either go in this or the FFR plus some other odd pieces of canvas.

There were a couple of underseat toolbox lids but they were zinc plated steel, usually these are aluminium. Maybe Australian made for the Military Land Rovers ??

Cleaning it out reminded me I need to make seat cushions for the rear seats and also install seatbelts.
I purchased 8 lap belts some years ago so busy now making plates to bolt through the floor. Next I need to buy some material for the seats.

Colin

4bee

7th August 2024, 03:51 PM

gromit

11th August 2024, 04:34 PM

After some more investigation I found that the cover plates under the driver & passenger seats are missing. The ones I found in the back don't fit.
Turns out they should screw in place (there's a fuel tank under each seat) and I guess a hole is needed for the dipstick. Just trying to work out if there was a grommet to attempt to seal around the dipstick housing.
I'll get some aluminium cut to size and make replacements.

When I get some time soon I need to remove the hardtop & store it somewhere until I find a buyer, then fit the windscreen and get the canopy out of the loft.

Colin

JDNSW

12th August 2024, 06:41 AM

gromit

12th August 2024, 11:26 AM

Regarding a seal round the dipstick hole in the under seat panels.

Mine has never had any form of seal.

I suppose that they could not see the point on what is normally an open vehicle. It gets a bit of dust in but has never been an issue for me. (Dust also comes in round the edges of the panels and also in a number of spots that are supposed to be sealed!)

Thanks John,
There is evidence of a sealing strip round the edge of the opening for the plate but that may have been fitted after it was demobbed ?

Strange that I found steel covers with latches in amongst spares in the back but not the ones for covering the fuel tanks.
I also found one screw down cover in zinc plated steel with no hole, must have come from another vehicle.

Colin

JDNSW

12th August 2024, 07:14 PM

Mine has screw down alloy covers. On the side that had what I considered an excessively large hole, I made up a small plate out of alloy with a neat hole, and pop rivetted it in place. But I would not be surprised if the type of panel varied over production.

An interesting point with mine - one dipstick is in gallons, the other in litres!

4bee

13th August 2024, 10:15 AM

JDNSW

14th August 2024, 05:56 AM

No, there is a home made tool tray there!

gromit

18th August 2024, 04:50 PM

Covers made, just need painting olive drab.

The Station Wagon tank has gone to a mate, just need to get rid of some of the other parts.
There was a spare windscreen complete, an aluminium front panel (Series I ?), a beaten up series II/III tailgate, a box of old wiring harnesses........

I'll need to get a few people round one weekend soon to remove the hardtop, that'll allow better access to fit the rear seatbelts.
I'm making a frame to raise the upper seatbelt mounts for front passenger & driver. At the moment they are low down on the bulkhead behind the seats.
I noticed the rearmost hoop is bent where someone has reversed into something so another job on the list.

Colin

gromit

20th August 2024, 05:23 PM

I purchased some green vinyl today to make some cushions for the rear bench seats.
Next I need to look at the front seat cushions. The foam needs replacing and the covers are damaged.

Time to fire up the old Singer walking foot sewing machine......
I recovered the seats for the FFR, they took ages because sewing is not something I do that often.
Time to make some patterns.

Colin

gromit

22nd September 2024, 05:36 PM

Before I take the roof off I thought I'd clean up the windscreen that was stored in the back.
While cleaning the glass I found the word SOLD on the glass, maybe from the auction when it was sold off ?
The canvas had decomposed and a hardtop had been fitted but luckily all the hood sticks are present & correct.

The paint was like the rest of the vehicle, many, many layers that were slowly peeling off.
Several coats of paint stripper later it was back to the galvanised frame.

The glass was masked up and after a quick etch prime it was out with the spraygun to apply some olive drab.
As usual no room under cover so the frame was painted outside.....under a tree.

Now hanging in the shed for a few days for the paint to harden.

Colin

gromit

28th September 2024, 07:34 PM

I managed to get some help yesterday and removed the hardtop.
Advertised in markets.

Today I fitted raised upper seatbelt mounts for the driver & passenger. The originals were on the bulkhead behind the seats, below your shoulder, which wasn't ideal.

The rear seats were removed and seatbelt mounting points installed for all 8 positions.
Lost of measuring, drilling holes then bolting steel plates either side of the aluminium floor. I used sealant on both the upper & lower plates (holds the plates in place and stops water getting through).

One of the seat frames was damaged so carried out a weld repair.

Installed the front & rear canopy bows. The rear had to be straightened, seems someone in the past had hit something.

Still hot wiring the ignition, need to look at the wiring next time I get it out of the shed.

Colin

gromit

5th October 2024, 07:04 PM

I was clearing out the last few items in the back looking for some missing centre hoodstick captive nuts (33080).
I didn't find the nuts but found a dual circuit master cylinder that was quite rusty and had a damaged reservoir.
I was about to chuck it out and though I'd check if anything was salvageable.

Good thing I did !
Turns out it had been stainless steel sleeved at some point.
Stripped it & de-rusted the outside. Then found an overhaul kit and replaced the seals.
Just need to track down a reservoir, I've managed to get one in the past. It's the rectangular translucent type.
A handy spare for the FFR and Wallit.
Found the reservoir Brake Reservoir Kit - Paddock Spares (https://www.paddockspares.com/aeu1045-reservoir-kit.html)

Also found two secondhand VH44 brake boosters in one of the boxes. I need to investigate the cost of overhaul vs. buying a knock-off from Ebay.

Bent up some sheet steel and welded nuts in place to replicate the hoodstick nuts.

Colin

gromit

10th October 2024, 07:05 PM

I got some foam for the front seats during the week.
All three bases have some damage so I'll make new ones, I already have the plywood bases.

While there I thought I'd get enough for the seatbacks, the outers are OK but the centre one needs repair, and also foam for some Series I bases.

I found a company selling offcuts. I managed to get a 'cash' deal and they were happy to cut to size.

I really must fire up the Singer walking foot......

Colin

gromit

4th November 2024, 06:56 AM

The hardtop is sold, someone is going to try and fit it to a Defender.

The hood bows are installed, the parts that fit round the doors are ready to be painted.
Removing the multiple layers of olive drab took a while.

I need to replace the vent seals as they have decomposed, removed the vents for painting and removed about 6 layers of paint from them !
Next I'll get a hand to remove the windscreen, once I've painted the top of the bulkhead I'll fit the windscreen I painted a while ago.

The seal between bulkhead & windscreen needs to be replaced, I was surprised at the cost.....luckily I had one 'in stock'.
Seal - bulkhead to windscreen - Paddock Spares (https://www.paddockspares.com/faj100020-seal-bulkhead-to-windscreen.html)

Colin

gromit

6th November 2024, 08:16 PM

Picture attached showing the layers of paint and the decomposed seal.
The chap I got the Land Rover from was ex Army and he claimed the vehicles were re-painted whenever top brass visited, looking at the layers it's been re-painted many times.
Interestingly my Series III FFR seems to be in it's original paint.

Somehow I need to strip the multiple layers of paint on the top edge of the bulkhead & re-paint. Probably a fair bit of masking which is something the Army didn't do ! I'd better buy some more paint stripper......

While looking at the rear crossmember I found the NATO trailer socket has rusted badly so when I tidy up the back end I need to find a replacement !

Looking forward to getting this one and the FFR finished so I can get back to the Dormobile.

Colin

gromit

6th July 2025, 05:15 PM

I've made some seat covers and about to fit them to new bases with new foam.

Decided today to start it up as it just sits idle in the back shed.
Firstly no electrics when the key was turned, cleaned battery terminals and power returned.
Tipped some fuel into the inlet, manually operated the fuel pump a few times (although it didn't seem to fill the line and reduce the lever travel), turned the key and nothing ! I'd removed the instrument panel trying to work out why the charging light isn't working and had displaced a wire, re-fitted and....it still wouldn't start. Tried a few times, more petrol down the inlet fired briefly but wouldn't run.
Decided it was probably the fuel pump again, I've had stale petrol stick the valves previously.
Took the top off the carby and there was no fuel in the float chamber. Filled the float chamber and it started but......the temperature gauge & fuel gauge weren't working !

Turned it off and fiddled with the fuses and the gauges came good. Once the engine was running the fuel pump seemed to wake up.

At one point the charging light came on when the key was turned but it's back to no light again ! Looks like I need to strip and clean every electrical connection at some point in the near future.

Colin

gromit

24th August 2025, 05:23 PM

I had trouble starting the IIa a few weeks ago, once again the valves in the fuel pump had stuck.
Combination of old fuel and lack of use.

Started OK today, moved it out of the shed to strip paint around the windscreen vents.
If I'm careful the stripper removes the top 5-6 layers and I can then sand back to the original paint. Managed to get half done and had to move on to another job.
I'll try & finish it off another weekend and prep for paint.
I noticed a lot of oil coming from the rocker box. I've not touched the top end so I'll have to degrease and fit a new gasket at some point.

Noticed a IIa FFT on Market Place for $3,500 today, thought about it for a few seconds then wondered how I'd manage after the divorce....

Colin

gromit

27th December 2025, 07:37 PM

Stripped the tow bracket and started removing the rear lights today.

Once I've stripped off multiple layers of paint I'll respray the rear end. I did notice today that the tailgate looks like it's been replaced at some point (in-service ??), the paint came off very easily.
New tailgate seals need to be made & fitted. Strangely the side seals had the steel strip inside but were glued in place but there were still rivet heads in the body. Looks like the originals were chiseled off and new ones glued rather than riveted into place.
The recess for the seal was in a bad away so I had to practice some panel beating.

I'll make new seals now I have seal material, gal strip & truss head rivets.....

Next I need to paint the area around the vent flaps so I can re-attach the windscreen, mirrors & bonnet and then give the GS a good clean.

Finally each side to then strip & paint.

gromit

29th December 2025, 07:25 PM

The paint came off the tailgate fairly easily.
I also noticed it's a later version, rather than riveted on rubbing strips the inner is pressed steel with embossed ribs.

So far about 6 applications of paint stripper to get the paint off the rear of the vehicle, tailgate must have been fitted after respray number 6 or 8.

Purchased some camouflage green paint before Christmas so once the rear is stripped I can paint and then re-fit the scone cutters.

Colin

JDNSW

29th December 2025, 07:34 PM

That later tailgate is, I think, from later Series 3, and is a vast improvement on the old ones if the vehicle is actually used (I have one on my 2a).

gromit

30th December 2025, 07:53 AM

That later tailgate is, I think, from later Series 3, and is a vast improvement on the old ones if the vehicle is actually used (I have one on my 2a).

Thanks John,
Possibly an in-service replacement as it has a couple of layers of camo green paint.
Grey undercoat, hinges pigtails etc. fitted before the camo green was applied

The two hinges are slightly different so maybe one was replaced at the same time.

There's damage down the passenger side with a riveted on patch panel and slight damage to the bottom of the A pillar (bulkhead). Looks like one side was damaged, the door was replaced and the patch fitted.
The person I got it from was ex. Army and he felt that it was the sort of repair that would have been carried out in-service rather than changing the complete tub.

One rear brake backplate had a flat ground on the lower edge and the diff had a brazed repair where it had been dragged on the road surface, maybe lost a wheel at some point in it's life ?

Back to paint removal...........

Colin

gromit

31st December 2025, 11:40 AM

I sometimes wonder if Land Rover projects are a form of masochism ?

Spent the morning drilling off bolt heads, shearing bolts off and finding all sorts of new issues to deal with.
Started off as a simple strip & paint job !

Wiring hanging down on drivers side. Looks like rather than running across to the passenger side the wiring for the passenger side lights was taken from the NATO patch panel. Yellow wires enter sleeving & emerge as red wires. Earth tags on the crossmember didn't want to release the bullet connectors and the bolts had to be sheared off.
Eventually removed the rear lights.

Mudflap bolts had to be sheared off (a couple came undone)

Found the rot in one of the chassis rails was worse than I remembered so next job will be to cut back to sound metal & weld in patches.

Colin

gromit

1st January 2026, 07:24 PM

The Protec alkyd enamel is touch dry very quickly but takes a day or so to fully harden.
The tailgate is hanging in the shed along with light surrounds etc.

Next re-assembly and sorting out the wiring.

Colin

gromit

3rd January 2026, 11:39 AM

Yesterday I masked off & painted the area around the vent flaps.

Fitted a seal to the bottom of the tailgate this morning.

I sourced a lot of door seal material a few years ago but.....it turns out that the seal for the bottom & sides of the tailgate is different to the door seal. I'd checked on my SWB and it's a completely different profile.
I decided that if I cut some of the lip off the door seal material it should fit, hopefully I can close the tailgate once it's fitted.

I'd sourced galvanised steel strip and had a hole punch so simply a case of marking the hole locations and punching the holes. Inserting the strip into the seal needed some silicon spray. Next you have to locate the holes in the strip & cut holes in both sides of the seal, a sharpened wad punch came in handy.
I had a rivet squeezer and tooling for semi-tubular rivets, in fact I ended up modifying a G-clamp to take the tooling (and wondered why I'd spent all that money on the rivet squeezer !).

Some info & part numbers in this thread.
Series Land Rover door seal (https://www.aulro.com/afvb/series-land-rovers/288087-series-land-rover-door-seal.html)

Now have another car to deal with, a Holden Cruze ! Purchased for the eldest daughter to learn in.
Yes........ I've read about all the problems with the Cruze.
It had a Holden replacement auto box some years ago and it's not diesel or turbo petrol which were problematic.
It needs a water pump fitted, a couple of tyres a drivers door seal and one taillight.
At $1K it'll do while she learns.

15 of them in Jollys wreckers, hmmmm not sure what that's telling me ??

Colin

gromit

3rd January 2026, 07:38 PM

The steel strapping I'm using for the seals is 'zinc coated', turns out that means painted rather than plated !!
It probably won't matter as I don't suppose any of the Land Rovers will spend extensive periods outside in the weather and the strip is inside the seal.

This afternoon I thought I'd investigate the taillights before re-fitting them.
The bulb holders are painted camo green, the Army must have removed the lenses covered the globes & spray painted !
One sidelight wouldn't work, maybe a new globe needed ?
The PVC sleeving had gone hard so I decided to remove it, in the process I found the sidelight wire was broken. Soldered, shrink wrapped then the wires bound in insulation tape. It's surprising how much dirt & dust gets up inside the sleeving......

The earth lead connectors on the chassis were rusted & broken, looking around they are available from the UK but not cheap.
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Using what I thought was zinc plated strip I found they wouldn't pass current, that's when I twigged they were painted.
Once the paint is removed they are the typical blued pallet strapping.

Pallet strapping stands up to the weather for quite some time so I'll use them until I find something better. I did consider a bolted earth connection instead or a spade earth connector as they are readily available.

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I'll maybe order some 301 stainless strip from Ali Express, not sure how easy it'll be to form but worth a try.

Colin

gromit

5th January 2026, 07:53 PM

I went to fit the scone cutters this morning and couldn't find the reinforcing plates that fit inside the crossmember so I had to make some ! They'll turn up when I least expect it.

Next I need to wire the rear lights but first, sort out the wiring for the headlights, sidelights indicators etc. at the front.

No charge light again, swapped the ignition switch then swapped it back and now have a charge light (must have been a dodgy contact somewhere).
Turned on the sidelights and got power to the connector for the drivers side but not the passenger side ! Must be a break in a wire somewhere. Need to remove the harness braid & investigate further. Then lost power to the sidelight after playing with the Blackout switch (had a similar problem with my FFR). The blackout switch also needs investigating !
No indicators but, strangely, there are two flasher units. Both are wired so need to trace a few cables from the TexMagna.

Most wires are PVC covered but some are PVC then covered with braid. Black wire with faded red braid ?? The braid is decomposing so I'll end up with a mostly black wiring harness !!

Part way through the day I needed a break so I made a tool for assembling the bullet connectors, I'm usually trying to shove the bullets into the joiners using a small screwdriver.

No power to the headlights so need to check the light switch & dipswitch. Last thing tonight I removed the dipswitch and under the wiring shield found a Scotchlock. More investigation tomorrow.

Colin

gromit

6th January 2026, 10:47 AM

A few electrical issues tracked down this morning.

Headlight switch removed as it wasn't working properly, terminals cleaned and soaked in switch cleaner. After multiple operations it came back to life.
Similar problem with the dipswitch, fixed by cleaning & multiple operations.

Main problem seems to be the Blackout switch sometimes it supplies power to the headlight switch, sometimes it doesn't. I'm about to take it apart and see if it can be fixed.

Colin

gromit

6th January 2026, 05:26 PM

The IIaGS now has headlights, sidelights & indicators ! Well sidelights & indicators at the front anyway.

The headlights came good once the Blackout switch was cleaned.
The indicators took a replacement flasher unit and the Tex Magna had to come apart & cleaned. There is a missing earth but when a temporary one was installed the warning light in the Tex Magna worked !
The windscreen wipers didn't work, switch removed and cleaned and they came good.
The map light worked once a globe had been installed !
Switching between fuel tank sender units seems to work OK.

There is an odd wire which was attached to the flasher unit. It seems to control the light by the Blackout switch, I'm not sure if the light should be ON when Blackout is selected or ON when it isn't selected......minor problem.

The Blackout switch came apart quite easily, the contacts were dirty. I cleaned them up and stretched the springs that push the contacts into place. The body was re crimped to hold it back together. Picture attached.

Hopefully I can lay under the back and start to sort out the taillights & rear indicators tomorrow.

Colin

gromit

7th January 2026, 03:35 PM

After starting early before it got too hot......the rear lights are now working.

The wiring had a few anomolies.
There is a separate wire running under the tub to power the rear lights, maybe the original in the harness has broken at some point so this may have been a 'quick fix' ?

There's a terminal strip in front of the rear crossmember for the NATO socket to be wired to. Wiring to the passenger side of the vehicle goes via this terminal strip.
As it's facing forward it cops water & road dirt as the vehicle is driven ! Clever idea.....
Several of the terminal screws wouldn't come undone and those that did didn't release the wires anyway.
I got a terminal strip from Bunnings, it's a lot smaller and the screws are plated steel rather than brass but it'll do. I decided to remove the NATO socket for the time being as it's badly rusted.

Removing the old terminal strip was 'fun'. The plate it screws to is plastic with details of what wire goes where moulded in, but no easy way of getting the rusted screws out.
I managed to attach a Vise Grip to the strip, bend it to one side and get a hacksaw blade underneath to cut through the screws. The plastic plate stood up to the abuse luckily.
The Bunnings terminal strip was mounted using a couple of M4 stainless screws. I may try and get a bigger strip at some point in the future, I'll also consider making a guard plate in front of the terminal strip.

Scone cutters re-installed and the pintle hitch painted. I need to get some bolts to mount the pintle hitch then paint the heads of a few bolts & screws and the rear is just about done.

Colin