Best Battery for Discovery

[PaulGOz]

Hi All,

I am in the throws of deciding which battery to run as a second battery to power my accessories primarily being a Waeco CF-50DZ but I also have the kids DVD players, GPS, and UHF Radio on the same feed.

I have run the fridge in an enclosed vehicle during a 35 deg day for 8 hours off the Starter Battery and seen the voltage drop to 12.45v. The engine was able to start with no apparent issue. So I am somewhat confident I can run the fridge overnight in cooler weather without killing the battery. How may time i can do this though before i need a new battery I am not sure.

I normally only camp overnight and will run the car for atelast a few hours each day even if staying in the same spot for a few days. What I am after is some piece of mind in that I will always be able to start the car regardless of how much power the fridge has been able to consume overnight.

All this gives rise to a DBMS. Putting aside the DBMS type and assuming I am budget concious and hence will avoid the DC to DC charging type devices.

My main queston in this forum is which battery is best for the TDV6 Discovery 4?

I have decided I will run the battery in the cabin and remove it when the fridge is also removed. I have therefore limited myself to AGM and GEL bateries due to them being a safer in cabin option. I am then leaning towards a GEL battery as they have a lower minimum acceptable charge voltage of the constant 13.8v that I have observed the D4 produce under all my testing. Many of the AGMs require 14.4v and up which the D4 will just not produce.

Does anyone have any experience with particular batteries or types of batteries they may be using to pwer their fridges?

Thanking all in advance.

[discomaniac]

Hi,
I have been using an Optima Yellow top battery under the bonnet for about 5 years in my D3. Transferred it into my D4, still going well. Can power my Waeco CF50 for two days easily. Waeco fridge stays in the back of the car for weeks at a time during summer months. Battery has been fully cycled many many times over the years. Totally maintenance free and no hassels. Costs a little more up front, but as you can see, lasts for a very long time. I use the Traxide Dual Battery system by the way.
Just my experience.

Discomaniac.

[NomadicD3]

opps

[Disco4SE]

I too have the Optima Yellow top as my second battery.
Had it in the D4 now for 15 months now with the fridge running 24/7.
No problems as yet.
Cheers, Craig

[NomadicD3]

X2:p
I have used these batteries {Optima} for years in many applications and they have never let me down. The only time i have used other batteries was when space restrictions didn't suit the optima's and then i used oddysey's, also and excellent battery and they have a wider range of shape configurations which does occasionally come in handy, but for a second in the disco's definitely the optima.
cheers
P.S. they also charge from dead flat to fully charged in 45-60 mins
P.P.S Traxide dual battery system :clap2::BigThumb::clap2:







Hi,
I have been using an Optima Yellow top battery under the bonnet for about 5 years in my D3. Transferred it into my D4, still going well. Can power my Waeco CF50 for two days easily. Waeco fridge stays in the back of the car for weeks at a time during summer months. Battery has been fully cycled many many times over the years. Totally maintenance free and no hassels. Costs a little more up front, but as you can see, lasts for a very long time. I use the Traxide Dual Battery system by the way.
Just my experience.

Discomaniac.

[Ashes]

I originally fitted an AMP-TECH D48 battery as my 2nd battery. A "cost effective" choice at the time with a Traxide system. After 12 months though I replaced it with the Optima Yellow top as it ended up leaking. Maybe a bit of false economy with the AMP-TECH (1/2 to 1/3 cost of the Optima).

Traxide setup excellent.
Absolutely no issues with the Optima and I've run a Engel fridge off it for several days without any issues at freezing temps. The fridge stays in the car for weeks sometimes.

During trips, I've got the UHF, 2 DVD's and Fridge running off it. Just about to add an inverter as well and change my fuse box to a blue seas box which is under the drivers seat. Easier than cable running back to the battery itself.

[drivesafe]

Hi Paul, and sorry mate but you have fallen for the misleading info being put about by a number of these wonder devices and battery chargers peddlers.

Gel and MOST AGMs do NOT need 14.4v to charge them. 14.4v is the MAXIMUM voltage that these batteries can be charged with.

ALL lead acid batteries can be fully charged with as little as 13.2v, so buy the battery that best fits your budget and/or requirements.

To be quite honest, you really need to be looking at batteries that can tolerate the high after starting voltages that D3 and D4s generate.

This can be as much as 15v

Your standard AGM and Gel Cell batteries are actually not very good at tolerating high voltages and are only useable as long as they are fitted some distance from the engine bay.

The suggestions of others in this thread about using an Optima battery is probably the best, all be it the most expensive way to go.

[chuck]

Drivesafe

BTW had your system fitted the other day - very professional.
Fitted the yellowtop battery.

If you had to jump start using your main battery off the yellow top what leads do you use again?

Regards

Chuck

[Preacher]

Have 2 Engel fridges - using the yellow top as my 2nd and 3rd battery plus the new Traxide system - faultless

I have found in the past that heat can destroy 3 batteries simultaneously if underbody temps are high as they were in my previous Patrol

dj

[Tote]

Another Yellow top here, install and forget. Also using the traxide system. Autobarn have them for $329 at the moment Autobarn: Catalogue (http://www.autobarn.com.au/catalogue#cat/show/8)

Regards,
Tote

[drivesafe]

If you had to jump start using your main battery off the yellow top what leads do you use again?

Hi Chuck, because your auxiliary battery is earthed to the earth stud in the auxiliary battery compartment and as the negative cable that comes with the kit is already thick enough, you only need to use a single jumper lead, connected to the positive terminals of both batteries and you can the start the motor.

PS, thanks to all for the thumbs up.

[gasman]

Please one more time for the dummies!:p

You are saying I can jump start MY vehicle from the aux battery if the cranker fails? and by only using the positive lead?

Whilst on the subject, I have 2 crankers but would have preffered a deep cycle. Does mean I have to be careful with the aux battery when running accessories off it?

Thanks

[ADMIRAL]

Yes. Make a small jumper lead up. As the batteries are commonly earthed, a jumper lead from your positive to positive will do the trick.

Tim will probably have a different opinion, but I have found that using cranking batteries as aux, works fine. It is generally cheaper, and as the batteries are of the same type, ( primary and aux ) they seem to charge up better. Comments anyone ?

[drivesafe]

Tim will probably have a different opinion, but I have found that using cranking batteries as aux, works fine. It is generally cheaper, and as the batteries are of the same type, ( primary and aux ) they seem to charge up better. Comments anyone ?

I agree, cranking batteries are just as good as deep cycle batteries but have one drawback, do not discharge them below 50%.

Deep cycle batteries can better handle lower discharges but, as you posted ADMIRAL, cranking batteries are cheaper.