not a 59' but a 66'

[raskol]

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Ok, these should be pics of Bullbar, engine, cockpit, rusty drivers bulkhead and storage box.

I'll try fix the pic upload next time.

thanks again for the info.

[raskol]

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a few more pics,

anything here that you can see that would help me understand what I have. such as why are the front lights sitting on top the other and other models are sit side by side.
any tricks to working out negative or positive earth for the battery. no markings or other in the engine.
cheers.

[JDNSW]

I'm afraid the pictures are too small to see any detail, but from what I can see:-

The separate wiper motors indicate it is pre-67 when polarity changed from positive to negative earth, but it may have been changed since. If it has an alternator, as I think I can see, it is definitely negative earth.

The arrangement of the blinkers versus sidelights is a bit flexible at that time, as they were not factory fitted up to the early sixties, and so were dealer or even owner installed, in what the dealer or owner thought was the best location.

To determine the actual date of manufacture, get the chassis number from the LH rear back spring hanger, see if it is the same as the one on the data plate, and post it here. The important bit is the suffix letter. No suffix letter means it is a Series 2, pre 1961. It can be put in the Calvin site (do a search here).

John

[korg20000bc]

looks like a ripper!
Appears like it has been around the briney a bit. Penetrol is a great product to protect steel in marine environments. Keep it in mind during your restoration.

I think they went to vertical lights so that they could be seen from side on as well as in front.

Look pretty straight in the body work.

At that age its more than likely to be +ve earth but check the wires leading to and from the coil. If the white wire from the fuse box leads to the -ve on the coil its a +ve earth.

[Lostkiwi]

Looks good

You have many hours of fun to come.:D What are your plans? Full ground up rebuild or enough to get it road worthy?
Ether way id say you have a good starting point

Good luck and stick with it.

[drifter]

Looks like a generator, to me, in the second to last picture and a brake booster in the last picture (I know that one because my inlet manifold has the same tap-off point for the brake booster).

Interesting use for a number plate light (lighting up the dash).

Look at the red arrow I have placed on your picture. Can you get us a close up pic of that?

All the best with your quest.

[Dinty]

G'day All, It looks like a Lucas generator to me cheers Dennis

[raskol]

Hi,
some pics of the generator and coil.

Red wire runs to the dizzy
black runs back to the main loom on the firewall.

To answer some of your questions, yes I would like to restore it to reasonable standard but when I stand next to it I start to snap back to earth a little.
Chassis looks quite good after the fire hose took of the rust scale, not as bad as I first thought, however the sheet metal is savage.
footwells. wheel wells, front grill , door frames and most of it is needing a lot of work.
It sat topless in a paddock for several years. everthing was rotten and algae and moss were settled in.
leaf springs look like puff pastry and brake system could be replaced and the wiring seems a bit tortured.
Other than that its sought of maybe, could be, might be something good.
To get it back on the road will probably be harder than I wanted at my skill level.
Time to bring it home and pull it down. Unfortunately this one will be an outdoor fix up.
Try to start it up this week and see if the drive train works.
Thanks for your help this far we really appreciate it. This forum makes a project like this possible for people like us.

cheers.


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Cheers.

[korg20000bc]

Raskol,
I'd never worked on a car before other than basic maintenance and I have undertaken an outside restoration on an ex-army 2a.
http://www.aulro.com/afvb/remlr-projects/85760-my-2a-gs-project.html
The learning curve has been steep but with help from the forum and research I'm close to completion.

All the best with yours.

[raskol]

Thanks for the encouraging words Korg.

Had a good look at your project, really impressed!!

My new battery is going to a negative earth and swapped the coil for one that doesn't get hot!!
But the engine still won't start.
Starter motor turns slowly - maybe half speed?
Checked and cleaned the dizzy and put in new plugs and got new 30 and 35 amp glass tube fuses (mounted on firewall)

I will double check the firing order and check the leads and their connections again. It feels like its an electrical problem, but not sure.
I noticed that the battery earth lead was getting hot so I stopped trying until I go around the system again.

Checklist-
Firing order
fuses
points/ plugs gap
ground connection
replace wire from coil to dizzy
clean carby

after that it may be the starter motor?

Does this seem like the right way to go about this or am i missing something more obvious?

Cheers.