BOUGHT FREELANDER TODAY BUT HAVING SECOND THOUGHTS!!!

[restrepoarango]

I had been looking to buy a 4wd for a while and today I came across a2002 LAND ROVER FREELANDER 02MY SE 2.5L with 58,005 kms at a dealership in Sydney. At the sight of LAND ROVER, low kms, low price and an extended warranty I couldn't help myself and paid a deposit on the spot. I have since however been freaked out by so many terror stories about this car on the Internet. Are they well founded or is there a possibility that I have bought a really good vehicle? I haven't signed on the dotted line yet so I might get out of it still. PLEASE HELP!!!! Andres

[HangOver]

the two biggest issues with the freelander are headgasket and the I think its called an IRD some sort of transfer case for the fourwheel drive I dont know a lot about them but they have a tendancy to crap out.
Saying that probably not much more than any other gearbox.

Can I suggest that if you are at all unsure get an RAC inspection or at least pay a mobile mechanic to give it the once over.

freelander is a nice little car and cheap to run

[streetlander]

......... bought mine in Feb, 2001MY ES KV6, same as you, didnt do my research til after I bought it!!

Its done 185,000+km's but no prob so far, apart from burst radiator T connection ($175 to get the parts)

Its an ex Qld Govt car, so most the troublesome work has been done on it

Does give you a lil bit of insecurity driving it, from all the feedback about inherent problems, HGF, VCU failure etc but I guess you pay for what you get!

I look at the plus side, it's comfortable to drive, has all the mod cons, and it's a Land Rover.

Trick is to treat it well and keep it serviced. It's not a Fender or a Disco so dont treat it like one! Start punishing it and it WILL break!

The 1.8 models are the worst with HFG etc, the problems arent so commonplace in the petrol or diesel V6's after 2001, most ailments were fixed by then, but the do happen!

Get your extended warranty, at least as a safeguard, and enjoy it!

All Land Rovers have their problems, at least you are aware of them now!:p

[discovery39]

Hi
We have the 02 V6. (for the wife)
Has done just under 100k.
No transmission or IRD issues.
Only flappy butterflies within the inlet manifold. (Rattles or chatters from engine at idle and beyond)
(New one purchased from the states off a Rover engine)

Only other thing I would suggest is ya buy yourself a new expansion tank and cap.

Overall, excellent car. Very strong. (not as strong as my Disco though!!):p

[101RRS]

People who comment on Freelander issues should have some idea on what they are talking about. The IRD issue (it is actually the VCU that causes the failure) only apply to the L series and 1.8 engined vehicles. With the TD4 and V6 engined vehicles do not have the issue, neither will the L series and 1.8s that have had their IRDs replaced.

Garry

[Ausfree]

As an owner of a 2001 FL1 KV6 let me say this, aside from it being a thirsty beast ,we are very happy with the vehicle. It's used as daily driver, my wife drives it more than me and she loves it. We did have some initial (expensive) problems just after we first bought the vehicle to do with the Auto Tranny (do a search here and you will see my story) but all is well now.:):) I would say use due diligence before you purchase the vehicle as you would on any second hand vehicle and good luck with your descision!!!:D
P.S. The extended warranties are worth bugger all, so don't let that sway your descision. The mechanics don't want to jump through all the hoops the warranty company places in front of them!!!

[discovery39]

Nutha tip, if you go ahead with your Freelander purchase.......
or anyone else that has one for that matter........

When the window regulator/s break, (and some will!) don't don't dont' get the cheap ones off ebay from Turkey!!!!!!!

Just a friendly tip............

[Ausfree]

Nutha tip, if you go ahead with your Freelander purchase.......
or anyone else that has one for that matter........

When the window regulator/s break, (and some will!) don't don't dont' get the cheap ones off ebay from Turkey!!!!!!!

Just a friendly tip............
Interesting, I've seen them!!!..........not to be recommended by the look of it.;) Not having any problems on that front at the moment,all is well!!!:)

[woko]

As Garry said the IRD failures were to do with earlier Freelanders. The modifications were factory fit from 2001.
The biggest problem with V6's are coolant leaks. Make sure you fit a low coolant alarm. They have plastic pipes and thermostat that are in the valley and are very prone to leaking.
Read Ausfrees auto troubles (do a search) A relatively cheap modification will stop this.
Think about doing the timing belts. The life of these is 120000km or 10 years.
All of drive line is service for life. Do not believe this. I would change all the drive line oils straight away.
If its at a LR dealership get them to make sure all the latest software upgrades have been done on the engine and auto.

[Piriaka]

Hi

I have been wondering what the best bet would be for an under $10k car - the Series 1 V8 Disco or V6 Freelander. I am relocating to the Pilbara and need a robust 4WD as a second car.

I too have heard sad movies stories about the V6 Freelander. I have had two Series 1 Discos in the past 12 years as main cars at the time, and thoroughly enjoyed them both, and had no probs whatsoever with either. LOVED the V8 burble too - great with windows down so you can hear!!!

Would appreciate any thoughts

Regards

Ray

[adm333]

The V8 disco will definitely be more robust than the Freelander.

We have a TD4 Freelander and it is a fantastic car, but we leave all the heavy lifting for the V8 Range Rover.

Dave

[madmack]

We just traded our V8 Disco on a Freelander V6. On two of the three Discos i've driven there have been steering problems. The splines on the Uni Joint on the steering arm of our disco went suddenly and without warning on us on Easter monday. On a different corner it could have been disasterous.

I'd point you in the way of a Freelander to be honest. Steering failure is something you don't want to experience and if it's been a problem on two out three Discos i've driven then surely it must be a design fault.

The V8 Disco does sound better, but i'll be staying well clear of them in future.

[PhilipA]

The splines on the CV Joint on the steering arm of our disco went suddenly and without warning on us on Easter monday. On a different corner it could have been disasterous.



I am happy that you appear not injured after such an event.

But I have to point out that for the splines to fail the BIG NUT would have had to be loose for some time,usually as a result of incorrect assembly of the lock tab, ie the result of an incompetent serviceman.
AND the steering would have been very very sloppy for a long period before the failure.
I have driven an RRC where the seller told me he didn't drive over 80Kmh because it wasn't safe, and the steering was incredibly scarily sloppy.

I got back from the drive , looked under the front and saw the nut was loose and almost off. I got I my socket and tightened it up straight away, and bent the lock tab properly, as it was very dangerous as is.

IMHO there is nothing wrong with the steering boxes of RRcs and Discos.( well other than the early ones spraying oil everywhere)
Regards Philip A

[madmack]

We didn't have sloppy steering at all. Power steering worked but wasn't overly light. I can only assume the unijoint housing was bashed on and the splines weren't alligned, the big nut wasn't loose. The splines were probably damaged beforehand because when it went I suddenly had half a turn of free play in the wheel and once I stopped the steering wheel had no say in what the friont wheels did.

Regardless the splines are way too small for their application, it's a very poor design. Each spline is only a fraction of a milimeter. I'd be far more comfortable with a different design where the unijoint housing was actually part of the steering arm rather than a bolt on part.

The vehicle is mainly driven by SWMBO and used for camping duties now as my wagon doesn't have a towbar. I can't have my family in a vehicle where steering failure is even a remote posibility.

It was a fantastic vehicle up to that point.

[bushpie]

I had been looking to buy a 4wd for a while and today I came across a2002 LAND ROVER FREELANDER 02MY SE 2.5L with 58,005 kms at a dealership in Sydney. At the sight of LAND ROVER, low kms, low price and an extended warranty I couldn't help myself and paid a deposit on the spot. I have since however been freaked out by so many terror stories about this car on the Internet. Are they well founded or is there a possibility that I have bought a really good vehicle? I haven't signed on the dotted line yet so I might get out of it still. PLEASE HELP!!!! Andres

Love to know if you have gone ahead with the purchase..... I to freaked out after reading the horror stories....... but dug a little deeper and am very pleased with my purchase of a 2003 with 106000 on the clock...... well very please after the first 3 days

[PhilipA]

Regardless the splines are way too small for their application

I am in a 4WD club and have done some very rough work and have been in clubs and the Technical Officer of the Riyadh Rover Register.

In almost 30 years of association with Land rovers I have NEVER heard of splines stripping on an RRC or D1 when properly attached ( or for that matter D2, 38A,L322 ever-except for your case).

One of the club members has 35inch tyres on his Disco 1 and on a trip a couple of years ago he bent the drag link severely by bashing a tyre into something.
Now if the splines were weak, this impact would have stripped the splines rather than bend the link. It was a tyre hitting something on the side rather than an impact on the link.

The design has been pretty much the same since 1970 and if it were weak , Land Rover would have enormous liability concerns if it caused any type of steering failure. I cannot conceive of your problem unless the drop arm was attached by an incompetent or the car was in a very serious accident at some stage where the steering took a very heavy impact and the repairer never thought to inspect the box.



I can only assume the unijoint housing was bashed on and the splines weren't alligned, the big nut wasn't loose.


Just to confirm that you are referring to the spline on the output shaft on the box as this quote seems to suggest that you are referring to the steering column.
In either case you should be confident that if the Freelander turns out not be suitable that you should have no doubts as to the strength of the steering gear on a D1 or RRC.
Regards Philip A

[madmack]

Hi Philip,
Thanks for your concern, the splines are officially the Lower Steering Shaft Joint part number STC2800.

http://www.britishpacific.com/common/getimg.php?p=STC2800&q=fp

I have since been advised it is a common problem by our mechanic who is a Land Rover specialist.

[PhilipA]

Thanks for your concern, the splines are officially the Lower Steering Shaft Joint part number STC2800.



AHA!
Well again I do not think it is a common problem.
It is a common problem that the UJs dry out and seize, which makes the steering heavy-OK-heavy.

However on my RRC and I think for many years later the input shaft to the steering box and the top column joint have a "failsafe" in that the input shaft has a "cutout" that the UJ cinch bolt fits into only one way. Even if the splines were to fail the bolt will hold the column in place, maybe sloppily but nevertheless able to maintain some direction. If your bolt wore through enough for the steering to turn independently then that would be over a very long time .

It makes them a bugger to fit , as you have to have the exact spline lining up. I can assure you from many personal experiences the UJ bolts do not fit even one spline out.

The bolt has to be very tight to pull the split in the UJ as per your picture onto the splines, and I think many mechanics do not tighten them fully.
Remember that the load on these splines with power steering is negligible.

A mechanic must carefully check that the splines are not "rocking" after he does up the bolt, or that the UJ cannot be moved upwards or downwards. If so the bolt must be tightened up more.

Nearly all 4WDs have a similar system.It must have been loose and flopping around for many years for the splines to wear down, added to some dust and a bit of oil .

Again , you should have no concerns about safety. BTW , I would be pretty certain that the Freelander will have a very similar sytem , even though it has a rack and pinion. Certainly my BMW did.
Regards Philip A

[madmack]

Regardless we sold the vehicle as I don't trust it.

[mike 90 RR]

Not having a go at you ... just commenting on the problem ;)





snip 1 .... I have since been advised it is a common problem ...

... If the problem was common ... Then you would see a list of this issue in the Disco threads ... Your's is the first I've seen





The bolt has to be very tight to pull the split in the UJ as per your picture onto the splines, and I think many mechanics do not tighten them fully.
Remember that the load on these splines with power steering is negligible.

A mechanic must carefully check that the splines are not "rocking" after he does up the bolt, or that the UJ cannot be moved upwards or downwards. If so the bolt must be tightened up more.


I'ld agree .... It is more the clamp effect that secures it ... along with the splines to hold it in place






snip 2 ..... by our mechanic who is a Land Rover specialist.


We've got plenty of them here too :twisted: ... My advise is to find a new 1


Cheers
Mike