Suspension Fault Normal Height Only

[sheckster]

Hi,

Yes, I did a search before posting :D It's nearly 10pm and just got home. On the way home the suspension light came on and stayed on so here I am.

Other posts say it could be the compressor but my question at this point in time is, it ok for me to use the vehicle until I can get hold of the dealer? As you know there's 5 days of no work, no dealer to talk to.

I'm driving down the coast, no off-roading. Just want to make sure that I don't inflict any further damage to the D3 (2007 SE)

Thanks,
Sheckster

[ADMIRAL]

If it is locked into the normal height mode, I would not think that is an issue. Even access mode should only increase tyre wear. Not good for long distances in access mode though.

[sheckster]

If it is locked into the normal height mode, I would not think that is an issue. Even access mode should only increase tyre wear. Not good for long distances in access mode though.

Yes, it's on normal height mode, will do mainly highway driving.

cheers

[101RRS]

Have you switched off, locked up and left the car for a while and then switched back on to see if the fault is still there - failing that try removing the battery leads and then reconnecting to reset the computer.

Failing that there is not much I can offer other than being at onroad height should not be an issue and should not further damage the car,

Garry

[gghaggis]

If the car's at normal height and the warning doesn't go away, pull the fuses for the EAS (there's 3 of them) to freeze the car at that height (it'll complain about it, but won't adjust the suspension). Otherwise, if an EAS fault is logged for any significant time , you run the risk of the car escalating the problem and dropping to access height.

Cheers,

Gordon

[Graeme]

... pull the fuses for the EAS (there's 3 of them) ...
Just the engine bay 20A fuse will do but all 3 wont hurt, but definitely disable the suspension ecu because as the vehicle slowly looses height it will get to the point where the ecu will drop it all the way down to the bump-stops and without any warning. Its then a very rough and thus slow drive to get anywhere.

[Jamo]

I drove 400km to the nearest dealer at Access Height. It won't hurt the car but 'rough' is not a correct description. It's not so much 'rough', more 'wobbly'. Not all the air gets out of the system. If you're prone to motion sickness.....

Check the fusible link in the fuse box near main battery. If the compressor is going then this may have blown. I got way with replacing it a few times before the compressor was well and truly kaput. The first replacement got me two weeks of driving before it blew again.

I couldn't get the proper link in Esperance so I rigged up a fuse to the terminals.

[jimmydunc]

Hi, been round most of the sites, have read 1000 threads as the Dreaded amber warning suspension light on, as this is our 5th Disco and the last 2 have had failed air suspension (98 and 2003)sold the 98 as is fixed the 03 for 800.Problem now is as I have got that sinking feeling (Litterally)I jack up the rear to check sensors and low and behold one cactus airbag.
Solution would be someone or thread of someone who has repaired them and if so how much for parts and any pics would be great.Have got pretty use to crawling under disco but would not like to make it a LIVING!!Thanks for any help.:confused: Just seen post out of sequence sorry about that

[gghaggis]

I jack up the rear to check sensors and low and behold one cactus airbag.


?? Can you give some more info? Never heard of an airbag go on a D3 or D4 that wasn't er, driver-induced. :eek:

Cheers,

Gordon

[yakka]

Hi all,

I have had a pretty good run with my 08 d3, with no real dramas, until Good Friday just gone. Yes, the dreaded "suspension fault" signal. In ordinary circumstances I would'nt have been too worried, but unfortunately I was fully loaded, towing a boat and at least 300klm away from the nearest dealer. All this on a 5 day extra long weekend. The OEM tow hitch is terrible at the best of times, but with a boat on the back and the suspension at access height it was downright dangerous. If i had a crusher i would've crushed the damned D3 then and there, for all the frustration it caused.

Luckily, my elder sibling was nearby with his old toyota kluger and and we managed to transfer the boat onto that. The d3 had to be jacked up to fit the jockey wheel under the trailer (and isn't that OEM jacking gear a pearler?). So yesterday my brother and his family had to endure 9 hours in a hopping d3 to Melbourne, while i towed my boat back to Sydney in his '02 Kluger.

I will give the d3 another chance though, because i can't as yet see a better alternative out there.

So, does anyone know the rough cost to replace the air compressor? Also, can anyone recommend a dealer in melbourne?

Thanks,
Yakka

[Graeme]

If the D3 was lowered to access height its unlikely that the compressor is at fault. Diagnostics will soon reveal the cause - perhaps not related to the suspension at all as the suspension will drop to access height for a number of other reasons, supposedly adopting a safe height. Funny (or not so) how its OK for coil sprung D3s to continue at their normal height with the same fault. If the existing height options are all you need, perhaps invest in a set of shortened or dual-length sensor link rods to be fitted in circumstances like this, as they will restore the height to normal even though the suspension system thinks the vehicle is lowered. However if the vehicle has dropped to the bump-stops then fooling the height sensors wont achieve anything.

I go to MLR for my servicing.

[rmp]

In my view MLR are the best LR dealer in Melbourne and I'd be surprised if there's a better outfit in Australia. I take my car there and have bought two cars off them, also referred countless people over the years and never regretted doing so.

[yakka]

Thanks,
MLR it is. I did call them up first and was quoted an amount $400 higher than ULR. Funnily ULR said MLR was nearer to me and they're both the same mob, so I called MLR again and they came to the party. Re: the suspension dropping to access height - it originally said "suspension fault, normal height only", but in my wisdom i thought maybe if i drop it to access height it may recorrect the fault. Turns out i was wrong, as once access height was achieved it wouldn't pump up to normal height again. Will see what the result is after the diagnostics this weekend.
yakka

[Graeme]

it originally said "suspension fault, normal height only"Its time to jump out and remove the engine bay main suspension fuse when this happens, before it has a chance to pull the plug totally.

[trobbo]

Thanks,
MLR it is. I did call them up first and was quoted an amount $400 higher than ULR. Funnily ULR said MLR was nearer to me and they're both the same mob, so I called MLR again and they came to the party. Re: the suspension dropping to access height - it originally said "suspension fault, normal height only", but in my wisdom i thought maybe if i drop it to access height it may recorrect the fault. Turns out i was wrong, as once access height was achieved it wouldn't pump up to normal height again. Will see what the result is after the diagnostics this weekend.
yakka

Be interested to hear what the outcome is. Mine started doing the same thing on the week end and is booked in for Monday to go on the computer to tell the mechanic what is wrong with it.

I'm currently awaiting a reply from the uk on the price of a compressor from there. It should be just about over 1/2 the price you will buy one locally.

[unseenone]

fuses can be removed, to prevent sinking temporarily. More discussions than you can shake a stick at on most boards. Keep in mind, possible differences between LR3, and DIII as mentioned in various links.

1. Article on replacing the compressor.
Too Many Faults and Sitting on the Bump Stops - Land Rover Repair Forums - LRRForums.com (http://www.lrrforums.com/showthread.php't=18606)

2. This discussion link describes fuses that can be removed, and the process to keep it from sinking (disabled height ECU, etc)
DISCO3.CO.UK - View topic - Suspension lowering - which fuses to take out? (http://www.disco3.co.uk/forum/topic63090.html?highlight=%2Bsuspension+%2Bfuse)

3. A great descriptions of fuses, components, etc.
DISCO3.CO.UK Photo Gallery - LR3 Air Suspension fuse 35P ECU Manual Shut Off Switch (http://www.disco3.co.uk/gallery/thumbnails.php?album=3778)

G'day

[Scary]

We have had the same fault come up on our D3 after some 4WDing over easter, but if you switch the cra off then back on it goes away then may come back every 3rd restart or so.

Any simple checks I can make??

First time it did it it was after a 300km drive and we had stopped and the light came up on restart.

The car has the extended 3 year warranty but I would like the background info before I take it to the dealer so I am not fed any fibs from them about taking the car offroad etc.

BTW offroad driving was only sand and beach

Thanks for any info

[unseenone]

OK, I couldn't find this yesterday, when I was looking for it. I suppose we all need to print this out and stick it in the dashbox.. that being said, when your diff goes out, contact me for parts.

If in the field, or on the road and sudden suspension failure, this may buy you some time.

pulling the correct suspension fuses will keep the vehicle from raising or lowering by itself. The fuses are F3E and F26E, both in the engine compartment, and also F35P in the passenger compartment. I got this info again from bbyer's posts on disco3 (http://disco3.co.uk/gallery/displayimage.php?album=3778&pos=0). You'll get a suspension fault warning, but the vehicle will not lower. I don't think this is meant to be a long term solution for anything. In my case, it was just something I did to keep the vehicle usable while awaiting a replacement EAS compressor. The vehicle slowly began to go down after a few days, but I think that was due to a different issue (leak perhaps?) You could pull the fuses at the trail head, but I think you would lose a lot of off-roading functionality, such as cross linkage.

G'day

[Graeme]

Only the 20A engine bay fuse needs to be removed as it powers the suspension ecu. The 5A engine bay fuse exists so that the suspension ecu can tell if the compressor relay is supplying power to the compressor (its on the compressor side of the relay contacts) and the passenger compartment fuse tells if the ignition is switched on, but neither is used to power the suspension ecu itself. The fuse numbers are different for D3, RRS (various positions) and the D4.

[Jamo]

Like unseenone said, pulling the fuses will not prevent the air from exhausting over the medium term. It is a short term stabiliser only. (in the D3 anyway)

I know this from experience. You will still eventually end up on the bump stops. And I had no leaks.

[trobbo]

My suspension fault problem is now sorted. i now have a new compressor in mine and am $900 poorer because of it.

[Graeme]

If you retained the old compressor, you might want to remove the dryer and test it for being blocked.

[trobbo]

For others who may need to replace a compressor, I just got a quote back from Duckworths. You can get a compressor landed in Aus for around $540

[trobbo]

For others who may need to replace a compressor, I just got a quote back from Duckworths. You can get a compressor landed in Aus for around $540

Paddocks quote has just come in and postage is about half that of Duckworths. The compressor was about 15 pounds more but overall still a better price.

ashame they took too long to get a quote to me.

[sheckster]

Paddocks quote has just come in and postage is about half that of Duckworths. The compressor was about 15 pounds more but overall still a better price.

ashame they took too long to get a quote to me.

Trobbo, is Paddocks in UK?, can you let me know how much the compressor is landed in OZ?

Took the the D3 to dealer and initially they replaced the battery, cost me $415. Whilst it did get rid of the "park brake fault" error the Suspension light was still on. So another trip to the dealer and now they're saying it's the compressor. Contacted National Warranty and they denied the claim based on the last service being 2months out. :(

[sheckster]

got a quote from MR Automotive here in Brisbane for $1100 fitted...yikes!

[trobbo]

Yes both are in the UK.

The quotes were

Duckworths
Compressor £269.87
postage £94.00
Total £363.87 (~$562 aus dollars)


Paddocks
Compressor £285.00
postage £50.00
Total £335.00 (~$517 aus dollars)

Paddocks did put a caveat on postage and said it was approx and would be calculated once fully wrapped and weighed. Postage would take between 2 - 5 days.

Your postage will be different as this changes dependent upon your postcode.

[markb]

Just replaced my aircompressor on my 06 disco with 142000km. Is there any use for the old air compressor mine was still working but not building up enough pressure for the EAS. Could it be used to inflate tyres or anything else.

[Scary]

We have had the same fault come up on our D3 after some 4WDing over easter, but if you switch the cra off then back on it goes away then may come back every 3rd restart or so.

Any simple checks I can make??

First time it did it it was after a 300km drive and we had stopped and the light came up on restart.

The car has the extended 3 year warranty but I would like the background info before I take it to the dealer so I am not fed any fibs from them about taking the car offroad etc.

BTW offroad driving was only sand and beach

Thanks for any info

Well Compressor replaced under extended warranty yesterday - no questions asked so I am pretty happy we got the extended warranty! Cost on invoice was $910.00 supply and install

[sheckster]

[QUOTE=Cost on invoice was $910.00 supply and install[/QUOTE]

Was this at LR dealer? if so, may I ask where?

Thanks

[IvanR]

I have/had a similar problem with air suspension light coming on when all appeared normal. Turn off and restart and it would be gone. However the problem got worse and restarting had no effect. As the problem started as occasional and progressed to all the time I decided that it was probably mechanical.
Yesterday I removed the compressor and cleaned the filter/dryer and the exhaust valve. Some of the desicante in the dryer had turned to powder and was on the wrong side of the retaining pads. The stem of the mushroom shape exhaust valve was corroded. Put back together an all operated normally.
Thinking back over the problem, I now recall that the vehicale had stop "farting" and only made a slight hissing sound (sometimes) on unlocking and opening a door. Could it be that a lack of "farting" noise is an indication of a blocked dryer or stuck valve? I intend to replace the dryer as I think the problem will return.

IvanR

2005 D3

[IvanR]

Have had similar problem suspension light coming on when all appeared normal or after raising the suspension it would not lower. Problem became progessivly worse until swiching off an restarting did not cure the problem. Have now removed the compressor and cleaned the Dryer and exhaust valve and replaced and all seems OK.
Now recall that the "farting" noise on opening the vehicle had stopped and only heard a slight hissing sound sometimes.
Could this be an indication that the dryer is blocked.

Ivanr
2005 D3

[IvanR]

I have/had a similar problem with air suspension light coming on when all appeared normal. Turn off and restart and it would be gone. However the problem got worse and restarting had no effect. As the problem started as occasional and progressed to all the time I decided that it was probably mechanical.
Yesterday I removed the compressor and cleaned the filter/dryer and the exhaust valve. Some of the desicante in the dryer had turned to powder and was on the wrong side of the retaining pads. The stem of the mushroom shape exhaust valve was corroded. Put back together an all operated normally.
Thinking back over the problem, I now recall that the vehicale had stop "farting" and only made a slight hissing sound (sometimes) on unlocking and opening a door. Could it be that a lack of "farting" noise is an indication of a blocked dryer or stuck valve? I intend to replace the dryer as I think the problem will return.

IvanR

2005 D3

[Scary]

Was this at LR dealer? if so, may I ask where?

Thanks

Southern Landrover WA

[Graeme]

IvanR,
Perhaps you should also renew the compressor exhaust valve when you replace the dryer as it only costs a few dollars.

[101RRS]

This begs the question whether these items should be listed as a service item - suggested KM interval?? 96,000km???

[unseenone]

A bit of kit for cleaning, servicing compressor.

Part #! LR020590 KIT - COMPRESSOR
Part #2 VUB504700 Ride control - Dryer Dryer, lr3, lr4

In addition to the link, with pictures and description, one person suggested the drying beads can be renewed by microwave for 5-10 minutes. This may prolong the life a bit. DISCO3.CO.UK - View topic - Suspension Compressor / Suspension error (http://www.disco3.co.uk/forum/topic65683.html?highlight=)

[wyperfield]

A bit of kit for cleaning, servicing compressor.

Part #! LR020590 KIT - COMPRESSOR
Part #2 VUB504700 Ride control - Dryer Dryer, lr3, lr4

In addition to the link, with pictures and description, one person suggested the drying beads can be renewed by microwave for 5-10 minutes. This may prolong the life a bit. DISCO3.CO.UK - View topic - Suspension Compressor / Suspension error (http://www.disco3.co.uk/forum/topic65683.html?highlight=)

Hi unseenone,
is there any tricks to removing the compressor?. Does anything other than the plastic undercover need to be removed first? I tried to remove mine recently and could not get to what appeared to be a mounting bolt in behind the compressor, up near the floor. So, I just cleaned all the mud and dirt off it externaly, but of course still have a problem with it taking forever to pump up to Offroad height.
Great pics, thanks fo posting your overhaul,

[Graeme]

I disconnect the 2 plastic pipes at the back of the dryer then remove the top cover to gain access to the bracket's top mounting bolt. The top cover is a bit of a squeeze to remove.

[101RRS]

Try these - they may help

[unseenone]

You will see the clips and bolts indicated on page 1 of the first document. It always looks easier to do it pictures.

[sheckster]

Paddocks
Compressor £285.00
postage £50.00
Total £335.00 (~$517 aus dollars)

Paddocks did put a caveat on postage and said it was approx and would be calculated once fully wrapped and weighed. Postage would take between 2 - 5 days.

Got same figures as above, total 335GBP. Have ordered one and waiting now. Spoke to Knight's House of Rover here in Brisbane and they guys said it's 1hr labour to install and that there's a new software that will change the way the air compressor operates so that it doesn't have to work as hard as before and thus prolonging the its life. Anyone heard of this?

[trobbo]

Yes there is a software update that is applied with the fitment of the new compressor. Your compressor will still work without this however

[Graeme]

Also, the reduced operating pressure software update is applicable to all LRs with terrain-response, from the earliest D3 to the current RR Vogue with their own software version.

[wyperfield]

Further to my earlier post below. My compressor was recently replaced under warranty - at about 60,000 klms. It had got really slow in pumping up or down, kept overheating and often gave a warning message (I've forgotton what it was - something about normal height only).
The LR service guy said they seem to be replacing compressors after about 4 years, although mine was only 2 years old.
So, it seems like if your compressor hasn't failed, its just a matter of time.
thanks to unseenone and garrycol for posting those notes - next time I do it won't be under warranty.

[bbyer]

Also, the reduced operating pressure software update is applicable to all LR's with terrain-response, from the earliest D3 to the current RR Vogue with their own software version. Is this update something new, say in the last year or so? I know there was something compressor related back maybe in 2007 or so.

The comment about reduced operating pressure intrigues me. I have always felt that no one, not even the Japanese, have yet to invent a single stage air compressor that can routinely run at +200 psig, (14 bar), for any length of time.

If Land Rover had just spent the money to install a second air tank on the other side and run the compressor at about 150 psig, (10 bar), other than initial problems with the wiring, the 3's air system would have been near faultless. That, and with your system so we have manual control over the computers re height.

[Graeme]

LTB00270 was released in Feb 2010 to lower the maximum pressure in the reservoir. It was released in conjunction with LTB00269 then LTB00269V2 for compressor updates but applies to all Terrain-Response variants.

I may fit a 2nd reservoir on the RHS. It might need some mounting bracket modifications but it appears to be a quite simple job. Its valve may need to be operated from a relay if the suspension ecu doesn't like the load of a 2nd solenoid.

Edit: If I think of it, the next time I have the Faultmate connected I'll see what the pressure gets to just prior to the compressor stopping.

Edit2: No 2nd valve needed for a 2nd tank because the valve is remote from the tank, so only a T-fitting and suitable airline.

[bbyer]

Below is a link to disco3 where wiggs installed a second air tank. The problem is the brackets but he solves that as shown on the various jpg's within the link.

Any yes, all you have to do is T across to the second tank. It there is any trick, it is to keep the air line from melting while crossing the exhaust system.

Yes, that would be nice to know what the pressure in your air tank peaks out at. On my single LR3 tank, the tank pressure seems to peak at about 210 psig, (14.1 bar). That is where the compressor seems to shut off at and I have a fitting on the end of my air tank that I can measure off of - installed with the help of CaverD3. I also think CaverD3 may have or had a second air tank installed as well.

I know that a bunch of updates were done a few years back. I also had a new compressor installed by the dealer in June of 2010 so it may be the update was also included with the new install. It seems they never like to admit to the updates as they are never certain if they actually take hold.

DISCO3.CO.UK - View topic - LR Airtank fitted for compressor install . (http://www.disco3.co.uk/forum/topic32433.html?highlight=%2Bair+%2Btank)

This link is re the outlet I have on the front end of the air tank.

DISCO3.CO.UK Photo Gallery - Schrader Valve Air Tank Air In install (http://www.disco3.co.uk/gallery/thumbnails.php?album=4176)

[Graeme]

My D4 goes from extra low (sometimes from bump-stop low) to normal height at least once a week in a car park and it would be good to get there quickly to soften the impact of the speed-humps. It would also be good for those off-road instances of wanting to get high or extra high as quickly as possible.

[101RRS]

Is there any aftermarket 12v portable air compressors that are capable of achieving similar psi as the suspension pump in the D3?

[bbyer]

Is there any aftermarket 12V portable air compressors that are capable of achieving similar psi as the suspension pump in the D3? VIAIR makes a number of units that are supposed to be good to about 200 psig, (14 bar). Models 380C and 480C per the catalog below have about a 50% duty cycle at that pressure.

As to if there is anyone that has a 100% duty cycle unit, well it is not yet Land Rover.

Big Red makes portables as well, but I think their units only go up to about 160 psig, (11 bar), which actually would be sufficient for lifting the 3. The air springs generally run around 100 psig, (7 bar), and no more than 150 psig, (10 bar).

[TerryO]

I found this cheapie compressor advertised that supposedly pumps at up to 150psi and 150 litres per minute.

From what I hve seen there are few advertised compressors that state max psi their pumps will go to.

150L / Min Super Heavy Duty Air Compressor (http://www.soldsmart.com.au/l3.aspx?goods=WM1026&cam=15&utm_source=getprice&utm_medium=cpc)

I'm not vouching for it being a good'n though.

cheers,
Terry

[sheckster]

Paddocks
Compressor £285.00
postage £50.00
Total £335.00 (~$517 aus dollars)

Paddocks did put a caveat on postage and said it was approx and would be calculated once fully wrapped and weighed. Postage would take between 2 - 5 days.

Got same figures as above, total 335GBP. Have ordered one and waiting now. Spoke to Knight's House of Rover here in Brisbane and they guys said it's 1hr labour to install and that there's a new software that will change the way the air compressor operates so that it doesn't have to work as hard as before and thus prolonging the its life. Anyone heard of this?

Got the new compressor installed (with new relay) all in all for $287, that includes $220 for the software upgrade, a bit steep I think but all up saved at least $300 if I've gone to the stealers.

[Disomania]

Bloody. No other word for it.

The car had a software issue where the hand brake light would flash and an alarm would go off. Fixed under warranty. Now, 2 days later, the dreaded 'normal height only' message has struck.

Oh well. Off to the dealer again.

[Disomania]

Well, after every trip yesterday with the 'normal height only' message, today it didn't get a single hit.

There are no symptoms of anything wrong either. Car goes up, down, up again happily, the message only appeared after driving a few km.

Booked in for a check/diagnostic next week.

[adzee]

Have been away in the high country this week and was using offroad height and llams unit when crossing rivers etc... Initially I could restart the car and it would disappear and then come back again. It eventually said no special programs available. I am now not using eas at all in case it won't go back up. Has yet to sink... But am looking at sourcing the part kit to try as I have time, and it's worth a shot... Only thing is can you drive without the compressor if it doesn't solve it?

Could it just be that water got in to the drier? Thanks

[bbyer]

One really has to wonder if the air compressor is designed to work under water or not? All the air compressor intakes and exhaust are located within the body of the 3 and up high so in theory water should not get in.

As to the electrical connections getting wet, well they must as the space within the plastic case fills full of mud and totally cakes the compressor up.

Myself, rather than a compressor or control problem, I wondered if you have a brake light switch problem? I know it seems that I regard the switch as the single problem and solution to all problems Land Rover, but that switch can set off error messages that then resolve themselves for awhile and then reappear. Just replacing the brake light switch can be a cheap first attempt to resolving the problems. To make it worse, the dealer T4 software seems not to have any provision to say that the fault is the switch and instead finds something else.

Below is a link to a few files I have on disco3. In particular, the brake circuit wiring diagram is worth following as you can see how failing contacts can feed signals to about every system in the 3.
DISCO3.CO.UK Photo Gallery - Brake Light Switch Replacement (http://www.disco3.co.uk/gallery/thumbnails.php?album=5082)

[Graeme]

One really has to wonder if the air compressor is designed to work under water or not? All the air compressor intakes and exhaust are located within the body of the 3 and up high so in theory water should not get in.
If water gets into the compressor motor it will fail, just like starter motors.

[noken]

D4 3.0 diesel HSE arrived jan 2011. Recently had 26,000 km service where perfectly clean pollen filter replaced. Compressor not touched. Now at 30,000km each time after short drive warning of normal height only comes on screen. I live out on Cape Naturaliste surrounded by ocean. Always damp. I was wondering if these conditions are known to shorten dessicant life in landrover system? My background was in Pathology Laboratory where silica gel was in routine use for dehumidifying incubators and was regularly regenerated overnight in 300C oven. Lab had a silica gel rotation system in place. Perhaps landrover should check gel in my circumstances? (At service they also did injector clean which I thought was a bit premature, I do very little city driving, mostly travel at 80km/hour plus in country.)
Noken.

[Graeme]

I can't see LR dealers checking the dryer contents but they should check for fault codes and they should fix whatever is wrong. 'normal height only' is not necessarily caused by an inadequate compressor but there might be reason to suspect and therefore replace the dryer or even the whole compressor assembly.

How and why did they clean the injectors? They seem to be electonically cleaned each time the engine is switched-off so was something not working properly that caused them to need cleaning?

[noken]

Graeme, checked invoice, actually billed for "ZMax induction/service - carry out complete induction service, perform induction service, remove and replace air intake duct and decarbonize".
Online check of UK D3 site suggests this is now a yearly landrover service item. I assumed they were ensuring clean injectors as well as air intake system. I suppose it may ensure better long term function of turbos? Less carbon problems?

[400HPONGAS]

Noken, can you work out what the cost of this Zmax inductive service actually was ?Sounds like someone else out ozzy park way has worked out how to rip you off.
remove and replace air intake duct and decarbonize, yeah ? Ill bet they did !!!!!!

[noken]

Zmax induction service $51.66 labour, "induction kit" $44. I believe Zmax is American product similar to Seafoam that was used in Subaru WRX 's to clean induction system. UK D3 site seemed to conclude this Zmax was being done across UK in D4 3.0 diesels at annual service. The dealer also added fuel conditioner - $15.25. Some owners were wondering if the use of Zmax was to ensure long happy turbo life?

[turtle146]

Well, after a short day doing some mild off road driving, my D3 has the dreaded 'Normal height only' message. I have tried all of the 'quick fixes' as outlined in this thread ie: lockup car, disconnect battery etc, all to no avail. I can only assume that the compressor has carked it. This is the second compressor since new. The first going at approx 80,000km (3yr) mark, now at 160,000km (6yr mark) another seems to be the problem. You would think that LR would rectify this problem. My biggest problem is gaining access to the compressor. I have fitted Rover Speciality rock sliders which weigh a ton, and are very awkward to remove and refit. Can the compressor be fitted in a different location? Has anyone tried? Where is the filter located, can this be readily accessed or is it fitted at the compressor site? Have also thought of fitting an after market compressor, but this seems to be a bad idea due to the high pressures required by the system.:(

[Graeme]

Hi Turtle146,
Your compressor enclosure might be full of dirt and mud so you need to check that first. You should really get the codes checked rather than assume the compressor is failing and perhaps this would be a good time to purchase code reader. Even if it is the compressor unit, the dessicant in the dryer might only need restoring by drying in a microwave or oven or even purchase a new dryer if the old one is clogged, which costs pocket money compared with a new compressor assembly. There's also available a compressor outlet valve kit if the valve is worn-out.

Without rocksliders, the dryer can be removed without removing the whole assemby.

[Disomania]

Mine is doing this same thing. Had it to the dealer before xmas, and due to staff leaving and trashing paperwork, they had reallocated my loan vehicle the day before - for 2 days - and they couldn't do the car all day.

They did read the fault codes, reset the computer, and clean out the filter in the system, however they said it probably wasn't that.

Now one thing I've noticed is that now that the humid/wet weather is finished for a bit, the fault has stopped. Seems a little strange.

When it was happening every time I used the car, I did find one thing that worked. If I left the car at 'normal' height, the fault did not happen. Dropping the access height, and driving off, it would happen in a minute or less.

Car is off the the dealer for a day or so on Thursday. Research says it's either of two issues mostly: Software that can be updated or the compressor itself. Will report back after I get the car back.

[turtle146]

Hi Turtle146,
Your compressor enclosure might be full of dirt and mud so you need to check that first. You should really get the codes checked rather than assume the compressor is failing and perhaps this would be a good time to purchase code reader. Even if it is the compressor unit, the dessicant in the dryer might only need restoring by drying in a microwave or oven or even purchase a new dryer if the old one is clogged, which costs pocket money compared with a new compressor assembly. There's also available a compressor outlet valve kit if the valve is worn-out.

Without rocksliders, the dryer can be removed without removing the whole assemby.

Hi Graeme
Where can I get a good code reader, and will it reset the service codes?
I take it the dryer is located along side the compressor. I daresay I will find it all once I remove the LH rock slider. Once the compressor is exposed, is there anything I should be replacing / upgrading (other than the compressor)?

[bbyer]

Below is a link to an thread in disco3 with lots of pictures with regards to rebuilding the compressor and finding and fixing up the air dryer.
DISCO3.CO.UK - View topic - Suspension Compressor / Suspension error (http://www.disco3.co.uk/forum/topic65683.html?highlight=%2Bair+%2Bspring+%2Brebu ild)

Re a fault code reader, the best and most expensive ones are the Faultmate units per the link below. The Faultmate FCR is cheaper but does read and cancel fault codes. The full meal deal MSV-2 does what the dealer can do and more.
https://blackbox-solutions.com/shop/

[bbyer]

I found the link below, (but all in German), and if I understand it correctly, the guy running the site sells parts for the D3 compressor, and more significantly, little bags of the desiccant.

DiscoveryParts - Luftfederung - Kompressor und Lufttrockner - Alles für Land Rover Discovery (http://www.discovery-parts.de/de/Ersatzteile/Kompressor.aspx)

[Disomania]

Well the beast has been to the dealer for a thorough check. Compressor is going to be replaced. After a day of looking/playing they have decided that the one way valve on the intake is not working as it should so a replacement unit is on the way.

Can't fault the service I'm getting from LR.

[wyperfield]

Well, after a short day doing some mild off road driving, my D3 has the dreaded 'Normal height only' message. I have tried all of the 'quick fixes' as outlined in this thread ie: lockup car, disconnect battery etc, all to no avail. I can only assume that the compressor has carked it. This is the second compressor since new. The first going at approx 80,000km (3yr) mark, now at 160,000km (6yr mark) another seems to be the problem. You would think that LR would rectify this problem. My biggest problem is gaining access to the compressor. I have fitted Rover Speciality rock sliders which weigh a ton, and are very awkward to remove and refit. Can the compressor be fitted in a different location? Has anyone tried? Where is the filter located, can this be readily accessed or is it fitted at the compressor site? Have also thought of fitting an after market compressor, but this seems to be a bad idea due to the high pressures required by the system.:(

Interesting compressor stats Turtle,
mine failed at about 60,000 (2 years) while under warranty and the local dealer said they are seeing them last about 3 years.
By failure, I mean it was very slow to raise and lower, would stick in normal height mode and give suspension error codes for no obvious reason.
As you suggest, they are in a very exposed place and would be better off in the engine bay like an ARB unit or somehwere protected better.
The insulation around them does not dry out easily and they need regular cleaning or they seem to overheat. They do alot of work and sounds like they give most people trouble.
After reading the great link to the UK post where the guy overhauled his, I will order a spare set of parts to have ready for when mine goes again as next time it will be out of warranty,

cheers

[adzee]

So I had suspension fault normal height only and no terrain response issues that were intermittent. I had them showing up regularly after a long Vic high country trip, and haven't seen them in a while. I have changed my brake light switch and am hoping it solves a few of the issues. It definitely had affected ride comfort, and now it seems to be back to normal. Happy so far.

[turtle146]

Well now I am very confused.:(
I have replaced the compressor - found the drier contents to be powder instead of crystals, so will overhaul when I get some spare time:lol2:
I have also purchased a Faultmate MSV-2 to read the fault codes - 43 codes in the suspension ECU WOW!! So I have reset them, along with the other fault codes found in the vehicle, but I'm still getting no joy with the suspension.
Yes the compressor works (albeit gets very hot trying to fill the air tank), but the vehicle will not get to ride height. After checking the fault codes again, there are now 45 fault codes recorded. Does this mean that the ECU is faulty is preventing the system from operating correctly?
Maybe it is time to ship the vehicle off to LR. I just can't afford the cost at present. This is now a month old fault. Not Happy!!:angry:

[Graeme]

Don't confuse Faultmate's untested fault codes as faults as they are faults that could occur, not have occurred.

[bbyer]

Well now I am very confused.:(
So I have reset them, along with the other fault codes found in the vehicle, but I'm still getting no joy with the suspension.
Yes the compressor works (albeit gets very hot trying to fill the air tank), but the vehicle will not get to ride height. After checking the fault codes again, there are now 45 fault codes recorded. This is now a month old fault. Not Happy!!:angry: Well at least the car is still running - a bit bumpy to ride in but.

I assume your 3 is older than say 2008 and as such there should be an unused threaded bung in the front of the air tank that you can thread in a Schrader valve per the link below. I know that you have rock sliders so the idea is not as good as I might think. Basically you can determine the air tank pressure and hence what the air compressor is doing. The most the air springs need is about 150 psig to go full height. You can also fill air back into the tank as well - the 3 does not care where the air comes from, only that there is air.

As I have the NAV with the 4x4 display, when I have suspension problems, I set the display to show the axle heights. If one corner is acting up, sometimes the display will show that - jumpy wheel or something and that can help to determine where in the wiring or which sensor may be a problem. As you have the Faultmate, just keep clearing the codes and record which ones keep reappearing - that should help to determine where the problem is.

DISCO3.CO.UK Photo Gallery - Schrader Valve Air Tank Air In install (http://www.disco3.co.uk/gallery/thumbnails.php?album=4176)

[Graeme]

Faultmate can show the pressure sensor reading. The pressure sensor is in the compressor o/p line so you can see what's happening, along with what the valves and height sensors are doing. If the vehicle doesn't get up to height yet the compressor is getting hot them suspect that the dryer is mostly blocked or the compressor outlet valve isn't sealing and therefore needs replacing. As a test or short-term fix, empty the dryer contents.

[PeterOZ]

mate, trying to get my head around this fix.

In Lieu of not having this "T4" thing to depressurise/pressurise is there any other way to do it? Or do we simply lower to access height, pull the thing off being careful and let compressor re-pressurise at start up?

Drier - can we get the silica balls and replace those? Would seem far cheaper then a whole new drier assy.


cheers
P

[Graeme]

Leave the vehicle at normal or off-road height for reasonable access to remove the compressor, but put a jack stand or at least a jack nearby in case it drops. Remove either the suspenson 20A fuse in the engine bay fuse box or remove a battery lead to prevent the suspension ecu from releasing air from the springs.

There wont be any air in the compressor lines as its dumped as soon as the compressor stops so that there is no pressure for when the compressor next starts. The lines can be unplugged from the rear of the assembly by pushing in the collet around each air line but the dirt may need to be washed or blown out before the collets will move. The front line going to the reservoir valve is unscrewed at the compressor.

[PeterOZ]

thanks for that.

I had a bit of a think about all of this today. The fault seems worse when weather up here in bris is wet or VERY humid.

Last few days has been sunny but cool with low humidity and the fault is hardly appearing.

Leads me to suspect the silca balls in the drier are full of moisture restricting airflow. Compressor works harder trying to compensate and gets hot. Suspension ECU detects taking too long and puts it into fault mode. Just my musings.

I got in the car at home this arvo and watched the 4WD screen and yes it was working nicely at first for a couple of lowers then off road height raises. From there though it went into "rasing slowly"

Took a few minutes to raise. At one point it refused to raise and front was at access height with rears at normal height.

A message about "raing when system cools down" or to that effect was seen on the dash centre display.

Soooooo me thinks a new drier and valve kit is in order. Have all the part numbers. Will also check the air filter on compressor intake while I am at it.

Got to be cheaper then a new compressor, $550 landed from the UK. Opposed to under $100 for the other bits.

cheers
Peter

[Tinman]

Hi Guys, Have just taken air compressor off my 2005 D3 with 170000 klms on it pulled drier appart and found to be in very good condition. I have replaced the silca gel and blown out the felt filters and reinstalled. One thing that I noticed when I took off the air line coming out of the drier from the blue plug was a short rush of air. Does this suggest that there could be a leeky valve in the compressor. I have reinstalled it and it raised up to 4x4 height and then back down as it should do not like it used to say "raising into extended height" which with a second pull at the lever would then lower to normal height. I then lowered it to access height and then back up to normal height all worked ok. After leaving the car idleing I noticed the car was running a bit ruff when looking back in the car a transmission fault had thrown up. Turning off and locking then unlocking then restarting the fault had cleared but only for a short time then came back. Leaving the car for about an hour then restarting the car the fault had cleared. Do you think that the compressor my have been hot or pumping slow which my have thrown up the fault. This fault has been coming on from time to time. Maybe a valve kit might work any thoughts

[Tinman]

Just an up date, after changeing the silica gel in the compressor as mentioned no more supension faults transmission faults and normal height faults. The car is running like a new one. The vehicle goes up and down with ease. Have purchased the valve kit from landrover for $16. This is the only spare parts available for the original compressor left. So will change it this weekend. If your compressor fails now a new designed compressor is now available as stated earlier in this thread from Landrover. Quoted installed and software update around $1500. So if this one fails may have to bite the bullet.

[Ivan]

You can get the new one much cheaper than that from the U.K. About $500AUD delivered if I remember. Even if they charge an hours labout to fit (shouldn't take that long) and update the software it still going to be about half price.

Ivan

[disco4now]

I have been getting intermittent Normal Height Only for about a week now. With this wet weather and reading this thread I was thinking it was probably dryer. Took Graeme's suggestion back in thread and read the fault codes.
C1A31 - Front Left Corner Valve - General Electric Failure - Intermittent.

1 month out of warranty now. Any suggestions where to start wiggling the wires. Bit hard while its intermittent but worth a visual inspection if I knew where to look.
I have reset to see if it comes back. looks like with the Faultmate you could do a bit of diagnostics, lets you see voltage, current, % open etc.

regards,
Gerry

[bbyer]

If you have the NAV with the 4x4 display, what I do is call up the 4x4 display and when driving around, watch how the individual wheels display. Often, one wheel will appear frozen or full up or down. If so, that may be the corner where the problem is.

If you can figure out what corner it is, then the problem may be in the conductors to that corner or hopefully, a wheel height sensor. The odds are that it is the wiring, (broken / corroded single conductor), as that is harder to figure out.

[Graeme]

C1A31 - Front Left Corner Valve - General Electric Failure - Intermittent.If you have a Llams kit fitted then most likely the cause will be a poor connection on one of the sockets in the grey connector at the suspension ecu in which case the loom should be sent to me for adjustment. Reseating the connector may fix the problem but its bound to come back at some time whilst ever the connector sockets aren't tightened. The wires for the 3 front valves occupy the sockets most susceptible to loosing contact due to the poor design of the ecu connector (the retaining clip is off-centre and the shell flexes too much) in conjunction with the ecu mount angle when Llams is fitted to RHD Land Rovers.

If no Llams is fitted then I would suspect the connector at the front valve block, especially if a bull-bar has been fitted and the electrical connector wasn't well seated when the bar was fitted. Additionally, with my ECB bar the loom was exposed near the valve block when fitted according to the installation instructions and would have chaffed if not protected. The front valve block is mounted forward of the front right wheel, accessible from below.

[GJC]

Hi Graeme,

I just installed my LLAMS yesterday. All went withoutproblem. Then when I was driving to workthis morning, I received the “SuspensionFault Normal Height Only” message. Ipulled it all out, the fault disappeared and I went through the installationagain. Again no problems. I put all the panels back and went for a testdrive and frustratingly, the fault returned.

Iwas justabout to write up a description of everything I did to see if you couldtell me what was wrong. I found this thread and thankfully I keptgoing and when I got to the end, I found your post from 2 days ago. Bloody connectors! I went straight down to the car and pushed thewires up into the connectors, to make sure the pins made contact and relief –fault gone.

I must have been putting a bit of downward pressure on thewires in the process of putting the LLAMS control box into my mounting spoteach time. There’s not tension on them,but a bit of wiggling must have made them loose.

Are they likely to come loose again on corrugated roads? Is there anything else I can do to make surethey stay seated properly?

Thanks for a great product – I can’t wait to try it out onFraser Island in a few weeks time.

Cheers

Greg

[Graeme]

Greg, the particular connector these days shouldn't give problems if it is pressed right in and wires not subsequently pulled. It needs quite a firm push for the last bit and once done it wont normally work loose of its own accord especially if the joined connectors are stashed amongst other wiring for support. If pushing wires overcomes bad connections then I suspect the connector is not fully home, perhaps only a one end. However if faults occur with the connector fully home then the connector sockets aren't up to scratch so I will swap the loom.

[AndrewM]

Driving the Savanah Way from Perth last week in our MY08, got the "Normal Height Only" when doing very slow rocky creek crossings. It resets when the ignition is turned off. Cairns dealer replaced the compressor last week (slow to raise error) with the Hitachi uprgade, and replaced the rattling LCA bushes. We had to disconnect the LLAMS for the compressor updates to download.
All great until a slow rocky creek crossing on the Bloomfield Track yesterday. Same error, but now sometimes in conjunction with "Special Programs Not Available". I have put the whole system is back to standard - LLAMS is disconnect and GOE's Emergency Air Up is been removed. I am now back in Cairns trying to get it diagnosed. Technician's laptop is still pointing to the compressor, but it is only 2 days old! He is going to look for air leaks in the morning. I'll get him to reseat the front valve block connector and the ECU connector as Graeme suggests. Any other thoughts or ideas would be appreciated as SWIMBO is stranded up at Cooktown with the camper and no tow horse!

[Graeme]

Make sure when Llams is reinstalled that a cable-tie is fitted around the 2 grey connectors (through the wires) near the long end from the off-centre clip. Some of the pins in the grey Llams loom connector weren't really long enough until a new connector was recently introduced. The Llams connector at the ecu was found to not be causing any problems.

[nivekau]

Thanks for all the great info guys.

I started getting the suspension warning light coming on occasionally on my 2007 D3, but now it's coming on every time a drive the car, within 5 minutes of driving at normal height.

I get the warning on the LCD display saying only normal height is available. Turning off the ignition clears the warning.

The only suspension error reported from the ECU was C1A20 "pressure increases too slowly while filling reservoir".

The suspension can be lowered and raised without any problem before the suspension warning light comes on.

However, the compressor seems to be running almost continuously.

I have removed the fuse for the compressor and the vehicle height has remained at normal for 24 hours.

Despite it's age, the car has only done about 75,000 km.

From reading the usual forums it seems that the following faults could explain the problem:

clogged air drier filters
worn compressor valve
cracked air drier case
worn compressor

Are there any other possible causes?

Also, is it possible to determine whether the compressor is the original Hitachi without getting under the car and removing the compressor cover? (I can't do that until the weekend but I want to order the refurb kit)

[Graeme]

clogged air drier filters
worn compressor valve
cracked air drier case
worn compressor

Are there any other possible causes?
Considering the fault code and circumstances you described, the compressor is too slow, probably due to the drier being clogged and made worse by a worn valve but possibly also due to the piston too worn.

The covers for the 2 compressor brands are different. There's another thread that has pictures of both.

[jammers]

I want to add my experience with this warning have D4 MY10 2.7 and I assume the original compressor. I would get the warning every month or so sometimes often with activity.

I ordered this kit http://x8r.co.uk/index.php/land-rover-discovery-3-4-range-rover-sport-air-compressor-repair-kit-hitachi.html based results in this forum. Comes with great instructions both pictures, instructions and YouTube video.

I have just installed this kit and found:
Lot of mud inside the compressor cover. This probably doesn't help so mental note clean after playtime
Piston sleeves not to badly worn but I had it apart and had the parts so I changed them
I had white coloured desiccant seems the wrong colour but also some power in there I would assume to be broken down dryer. Due to the powder the filters surrounding the dryer get clogged. Changed all filters from kit and including new dryer beads.

Tips for pump removal:
I got the Aussie version of this set https://www.aldi.co.uk/en/specialbuys/thursday-16-october/product-detail/ps/p/5-piece-ratchet-wrench-set-5/ to help remove the top bolt which is really hard to access - wratchet ring spanner was the only way for me. Also you can 'move' some of the air lines to make access easier as their holders are in 'slots' in the chassis - would have saved an hour on the removal had I realised.

So now time will tell but so far the pump runs and no faults despite some heavy testing use.

[VCarr]

removed from here and started a new thread

[ytt105]

You need to reset the steering wheel angle after a wheel alignment, if its out all sorts of things close down.

This can be done by the dealer or anyone with a suitable diagnostic tool, Nanocom, IID, etc.

I've just done mine with my Nanocom and would be happy to help, BUT I'm in Canberra.

Someone closer should be able to help or try this link http://www.aulro.com/afvb/electronic-diagnostic-systems/213489-members-diagnostic-equipment-map-updated-1-2015-a.html

Regards
Trevor

[Graeme]

The suspension fault/light/warning characteristics are typical of the compressor failing to sufficiently quickly fill the reservoir due to either a blocked air dryer or the compressor itself is failing. The next level of fault will be that it cannot get to normal height within its allowable time after which it will show the 50 kph only message and drop to the bump-stops. If this occurs then restart the vehicle and as soon as the suspension is up to height or as far as its going to go then remove the 20A suspension system fuse from the engine bay fuse box (3rd fuse from the front on the outside row) to stop it lowering again. Meanwhile don't use access or off-road height to keep to a minimum the work required of the compressor.

[ytt105]

Last week I replaced my lower control arms.
All good, went for a drive and I got all sorts of errors including suspension ones and finally down on the bump stops.

Cleared the errors with my Nanocom and reset the steering angle sensor and all was well.

Then got a wheel alignment done, reset the steering angle again, and she now runs straight and true and knock free.

If yours has had a wheel alignment and the steering wheel was out of position, then it needs to have the angle sensor reset. If the dealer had so much trouble
I wouldn't be confident that they did reset it.

PS. The D3 rides soo much better on the bump stops than the P38 did!

[VCarr]

Turned out that the steering angle had been reset; so moved onto the compressor which was almost dead so it seemed. With a new compressor all is good.

[shorty]

This thread was very useful to me during the week.

I have an 07 D3 on its original compressor. Started getting the 'normal height only' message. Removed the 20A fuse and was able to keep driving it for a couple of days (despite the warning messages on the dash).

Had the fault codes read and the air resovoir was filling too slowly - compressor on the way out as I had expected. In a way I always felt I was driving around on borrowed time with the original compressor and long trips especially were starting to worry me.

New AMK compressor and software installed and shes all back to normal. In fact goes up a little quicker than before.

Hopefully this one will give 10 years of good service. Fingers crossed.

[saD4]

I ordered this kit LAND ROVER DISCOVERY 3 4 RANGE ROVER SPORT AIR COMPRESSOR REPAIR KIT HITACHI (http://x8r.co.uk/index.php/land-rover-discovery-3-4-range-rover-sport-air-compressor-repair-kit-hitachi.html) based results in this forum. Comes with great instructions both pictures, instructions and YouTube video.



Considering going down the same path. Haven't stumbled the 'results in this forum' relating to the x8r refurb package, but my searching skills here are 'emerging'. Any cues appreciated.

'Landyair' has an equivalent refurb package: Land Rover Discovery 3 4 Range Rover Sport Hittachi AIR Suspension Repair KIT | eBay (http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/121551564812?_trksid=p2055119.m1438.l2649&ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT)

Interested in any comments as to whether one may be better than the other.

Understand that many hold the perspective of just replace the compressor, but finding it hard to shake the sensation that this is overkill (getting a low output fault recorded, compressor looks pristine externally).

Regards,

[rocmic]

I purchased the Landyair kit, but it only arrived a few days ago and I did not have time over the weekend to get to it.
Comparing the photos from X8R and the kit from Landyair, they appear to be basically the same, although landyair includes a new drier cover.
Hopefully I will get a chance this weekend to get on with it, and hopefully I don't completely stuff it up.
Cheers
Mike

[saD4]

Thanks rocmic. Look forward to hearing how you went with the Landyair kit.

Side note (for others), X8R do do a kit with the drier lid also (appears to be an alloy one).

[TuffRR]

Reviving this thread from the dead.


My 2011 D4 is now displaying 'normal height only' pretty much every drive. I've checked for leaks around the unit and nothing to be found. Have read the fault codes and it shows CA120 which indicates too slow to fill reservoir.


At this stage I'm contemplating replacing the original unit (hitachi) with a new AMK but am shocked at the prices I'm getting, especially when people in this thread were getting compressors for $500. At the moment, the best local price I'm finding is about $1400 for supply only. :censored:


I'm happy to fit and update the ecu with my nanocom but don't really want to spend this much to replace the compressor. Of course could rebuild with one of the $150 kits but seems like a short term fix at best.

[saD4]

1400 sounds more like a supply and fit figure ... at least that's around what I paid 12 months ago in SA. Before doing that I did fit an X8R kit to the Hitachi, it seemed to work better on the bench, but suspension faults still occurred (not the slow to fill type at that point, some other error - in retrospect very possibly the $30 relay ...). As to longevity of the rebuild, for the money it's arguably worth a shot, not a difficult task. Didn't end up using the rebuilt compressor, welcome to try it (albeit I'm in Adelaide).

[Graeme]

My 2011 D4 is now displaying 'normal height only' pretty much every drive. I've checked for leaks around the unit and nothing to be found. Have read the fault codes and it shows CA120 which indicates too slow to fill reservoir.


At this stage I'm contemplating replacing the original unit (hitachi) with a new AMKAsk a dealer to look-up Topix (or PM me with your vin & I'll do it) to see if the compressor upgrade is outstanding. LR was replacing all D4 Hitachi compressors with AMK at least for a while but may have since discontinued the campaign.

[TuffRR]

Thanks for the offers saD4 and Graeme.

I'll potentially be in touch saD4 depening on what Graeme comes back with. :BigThumb:

[Graeme]

It seems that LR have withdrawn the offer to upgrade the compressors. My now-gone D4 had its compressor upgraded just prior to the upgrade campaign so its Topix record for a long time showed the upgrade as outstanding, but no longer.