D1 electric window ecu Fixed

[mike 90 RR]

So the rear windows don't work

Pulled out the switch box and moved the plug for the rear window to the Front window

Nope

Still won't work

I remember seeing another thread showing the ECU board behind the glove box ....
So out with the glove box
Looking at the colours of the wires at the switch console gives you the hint on which ECU box is the right one .... Don't attempt to remove the box ... Leave it where it is

Pull the 2 multi plugs off .... The top 1 is easy ... The bottom 1 is a swearword ... It has a holding clip ... Push the clip IN and pull the plug with long nose pliers .... or however you can

When you FINALLY get that plug out ... SNAP that clip off and throw it in the bin :mad:

There is a black fascia panel at the front of the ECU box ... Have a Goooood look at it and you will see the 6 clip tags ..... Now use a thin screwdriver and Peel it off

You will now see the board
Just pull the board out of it's housing ....






Congratulations ....Your now looking for the damage to the board


OK... This is the board ... Look on the upper RHS and you can see a burnt spot
There WAS 2 charcoaled, burnt out Diodes there ... My photo shows my new replacement Diodes already soldered in place


Solution was: .... I went to Jacar and showed them the board ... and they gave me .... a pack containing DIODE 1N4004 400V 1A DO41 .... 4 in a pack for 50c



http://img861.imageshack.us/img861/6828/electwindowecu1.jpg



This is the back of the board ... and shows my soldering of the Diodes ... The circuit board "tracks" was damaged from the heat of the burnt diodes ....So I just followed where the track lines went to
I then just used the extra length of the Diode wires, to bridge to the next component .... So you can see in the photo, how I "bridged"

http://img847.imageshack.us/img847/9899/electwindowecu3.jpg


I also found 2 cold solder joints on the other components .....



When I finished .... Plugged it back in ... and ..... It happily works again :D


TIP: .... When soldering, Go down to the Hobby shop (Radio controlled Airplanes etc) and buy a little bottle of liquid flux .... as you need to solder the joint in an instant as excessive solder heat will kill the electrical parts



If you need to do this job yourself >>>> This job is fairly easy for the hobbyist at heart ... Just print the photos to compare it to yours




Finally ...

I'ld like to give a big thankyou to LR ... For making me into a budding electrician
:wasntme:


Cheers
Mike
:)

[SimonM]

Good job. Yes Land Rovers improve your skill levels in many ways, and patience :). I had the same problem with my D1 but it just needed a touch up of the dodgy solder.

[upnorth]

Yeah, gotta love the window ECU, back windows on mine stopped working yesterday (both wide open).
I Used this "Repair a Land Rover Discovery electric window ECU to make the rear windows open again" (http://www.landyworld.co.uk/discowindows.htm) to help locate the ECU box, when i got it out the solder they mention on that guide was dodgy so i fixed it, plugged in and still no luck so after another look i noticed another bit of solder was a bit dodgy.

Soldered up and now they work fine.

[shining]

Any other clues? I have no obvious dry joints and no obvious failed components. I checked the diodes with a multimeter and they are operating normally.
My symptoms were longer lag time from starting the car to operation of rear window switches and gradually worsening until no operation of rear windows. (Fronts have always been fine) The picture from the link is slightly different to mine in that I have only 3 relays rather than the five in the post. PCB seems the same in all other respects.

[MR LR]

AWESOME :D

I finally know what is wrong with my rear windows haha, thansk soo much, everyone that goes in the back has been pestering me to re-wire them, but i didn't even know where to start looking. Mine used to 'heat up' and work after driving for 10 minutes or so, now they've given up the ghost completely, i'll give this a go.

Cheers
Will :)

[vee8auto]

TIP: .... When soldering, Go down to the Hobby shop (Radio controlled Airplanes etc) and buy a little bottle of liquid flux .... as you need to solder the joint in an instant as excessive solder heat will kill the electrical parts
.......
Cheers
Mike
:)
not so sure about liquid flux.
Rather, while you are at Jaycar or any other electronic hobbyist supply store get some resin-core solder. This comes with flux inside it, and if you use the wrong stuff you wil be leaving a corrosive residue that will cause more damage than you started with. As well as that you need the proper soldering iron for electronics so leave the plumbers soldering iron in the cupboard. Yes, too much heat will kill components, so its a brief sharp hot dab with the correct soldering iron.

[isuzurover]

... Mine used to 'heat up' and work after driving for 10 minutes or so, now they've given up the ghost completely, i'll give this a go.

...

Mine were the same. When I pulled the circuit board there was one obviously dry joint. I re-flowed the solder oon that one and any others which looked a bit sus. No new solder or flux needed. Works better than new now...

[MR LR]

Mine were the same. When I pulled the circuit board there was one obviously dry joint. I re-flowed the solder oon that one and any others which looked a bit sus. No new solder or flux needed. Works better than new now...
Funny though because after i filled the interior up with 1" of muddy water they worked all the time haha, then when it dried they stopped forever... lol had me baffled

[cattledog]

If you're desperate, this web site http://www.roverparts.com/Techtips/WindowLiftRepair.cfm

gives you a fix by bypassing the windows ECU (but no need to use posi-lock connectors) . This fix worked for me, the rear windows are working fine, but the central locking has been disabled as a result.

[Lariens]

My wife has been complaining about the rear windows for a few months, I thought she was going crazy. Well I saw this link, I pulled it out today and found a dry solder point, works like a treat now:D

[loanrangie]

Any other clues? I have no obvious dry joints and no obvious failed components. I checked the diodes with a multimeter and they are operating normally.
My symptoms were longer lag time from starting the car to operation of rear window switches and gradually worsening until no operation of rear windows. (Fronts have always been fine) The picture from the link is slightly different to mine in that I have only 3 relays rather than the five in the post. PCB seems the same in all other respects.

I have exactly the same symptoms will have to open up the ecu and see what has failed or burnt out, did you fix yours yet ?

[OlliesLRover]

Disco1 1994 V8i Auto

My ecu is slightly different (AY2D) to the OP's (AY2E) not sure if they are compatiable (see pics).

Removing it was exactly as OP stated but he obviously under stated that bottom clip, it was harder to remove than an undertaker at a nursing home.

Will take it to the auto electrician tomorrow, from what I can see there is 1 cracked solder join and not sure if it is relevant or not but there are
2 Diodes that are not related where the solder over runs onto the other (see pics).

If it still dose'nt work I can get a reco replacement from my wreckers for $75 , he keeps the old one to recondition.

Only have to plug it in to see if it works seeing as I have done the hard work so I will let you's know how it goes

Regards
Rich

[mike 90 RR]

My ecu is slightly different (AY2D) to the OP's (AY2E) not sure if they are compatiable (see pics).


LR used different board designs throughout the various model years ... but they all do the same basic function .... I'm fairly certain you can install a different model D1 board and it will "plug up n function" OK




it was harder to remove than an undertaker at a nursing home.


..... :twisted:




there is 1 cracked solder join



Just solder it up and see how it goes .... :D


There are a few Tutorials of repairs to these boards floating around the WW.Web ... The main purpose of my post was to add to the list of possible fixes, with the bonus of how to solve the problem of the burnt diodes that occurred on my board.

Cheers
Mike

[shining]

Hi Rich.
My PCB was the same model as yours. I couldn't fix mine I tried re-soldering and replaced a couple of diodes as well but couldn't identify the faulty component. but I bought a replacement and that worked.

[OlliesLRover]

Hi Rich.
My PCB was the same model as yours. I couldn't fix mine I tried re-soldering and replaced a couple of diodes as well but couldn't identify the faulty component. but I bought a replacement and that worked.

Grrrrrrr I still have nightmares about mine, I took it to the auto elect and he soldered the dry joint, I pluged it in and away it went $20, I just left it hanging down till I got home as I couldn't get that bloody plug out again even after I had previously broken the locking lugs off.

When I got home I still couldn't get the plug off so I decided to fit it with it on - wrong move, I touched the board on a bit of metal and zap board fried.

So I still ended up having to go to the wreckers and get a second hand one $75, so I was very pfssed off with myself and now that you have reminded me of it I will probably sulk for the next week or so:mad:.

ps; And if I had known/realised that the bloody windows (rear) only opened half way anyhow they could have stayed shut, as the dog still refuses to sit in the back as he can't get his big boof head far enough out that small gap to snaffle any stray kid that gets to close Grrrrrrrrrrr.

[madmalneb]

Thank you,Thank you,Thank you for this post. My children Thank you as well as they havent been able to wind the windows for years!