Parts - S1 1952

[Drew Parker]

Just bought 1952 S1 for working restoration. Keen for advice on sourcing original and or replacement parts, esp brakes / ignition and electrics. Am also going to need a pair of front doors at some stage. Thanks Drew

[Lotz-A-Landies]

Drew

You seem to have a reasonably unmolested 1953 there!

Before you start. Get the original 80" parts manual and an original workshop manual. The parts manual in particular will make everything else easier.

80" parts are getting a little difficult to acquire these days.

Your brakes have 1/4" pipes which are difficult to acquire. If you have steel wheel cylinders I would send yours out to have sleeved in stainless. Be very careful with the master cylinder these are the most difficult to acquire. The shoes and springs are the same as fitted to 88'" Landies right through 1980.

Vinwire (Vintage Wiring) in Melbourne make new replacement wiring harnesses not cheap but well worth the expense. Decide now if you want extra wiring such as blinkers added to the harness when they make it.

SUMidel in Sydney have a restoration service or can supply brand new replacements for the SU fuel pump. The new versions have electronics over the points so are much more reliable than original ones.

General parts can be had from a variety of suppliers around the country, Land Vehicle Spares, Silverdale NSW, All 4 X Four in Kotara NSW, Rover Parts Plus (internet) Bendigo Vic, some place in Blackburn Vic.

Electrical light fittings - Classic and Vintage Bulbs in Adelaide SA.

UK vendors. Dunsfold's DLR, John Craddock or LR Series are good places to start.

You should also consider joining the LR Series One Club in the UK, their Mag is a good read for 80" and other S1 models and they have a club shop for many hard to find and reproduction parts. The magazine is worth the membership cost before you even consider the parts availability.

Hope this helps.

Diana

[Drew Parker]

Thanks for all the details Diana

Also happy to be corrected on age as I was informed that it is '52 - Engine# 47111002 / Chassis# 26161433 / Distributer - 10 51 .... (This is my first foray into S1 after many years living with S11A/S111 and Defenders).

I have the various books but as I am currently overseas, I have yet to get physical with the new acquisition and so am simply guessing on needs at the moment.

Looking forward to Aug when I get home and can get to grips with it.

cheers
Drew

[series1buff]

Just bought 1952 S1 for working restoration. Keen for advice on sourcing original and or replacement parts, esp brakes / ignition and electrics. Am also going to need a pair of front doors at some stage. Thanks Drew

Hi Drew

I concur with Diana's advice but will add my own thoughts:

The 1/4" brake system: most brake business still sell the 1/4" bundy tubing and nuts . The flare nuts are UNF thread but I have found the modern equivalent is somewhat loose , e.g., smaller diameter . I made my own flare nuts on my lathe to achieve a better closer tolerance fit .

Instead of reconditioning your original brake wheel cylinders, it's much more practical to use later series 2/3 wheel cylinders with adapters . DUNSFOLDS in the UK sell the adapters . The original cylinders have a horrible silly bleed screw mechanism .

I would buy the SU petrol pump kit from Gower and Lee in the UK . The pump is easy to pull down and rebuild . I had myriad problems with my original Solex carby . A lot of people in the UK install a after market WEBER .. it performs well apparently .

You won't find any original straight doors or tailgate . if your handy with sheet metal, its a straightforward job making up your own new ones . It just takes time . With modern adhesives , you can glue the panels together and put fake dimples in to replicate the spot welds .

Mike

[Drew Parker]

Cheers Mike
All good solid advice - appreciated.
Would you know from the numbers if this is a 52 or 53? I see the parts manual uses numbers to give separation on some parts - but note that for most items they are common for the 80" models
Drew

[Lotz-A-Landies]

Thanks for all the details Diana

Also happy to be corrected on age as I was informed that it is '52 - Engine# 47111002 / Chassis# 26161433 / [FONT=Arial]Distributer - 10 51 .... No you're correct it is 1952 - I read the first number of the image as assumed (wrongly) it was a 1953.

The engine however is incorrect, it is out of a 1954, but is essentially the same engine (apart from number).

Diana

[series1buff]

Drew

I'm no expert on part numbers but from your details you have a 52 model fitted with a 1954 motor . It's the correct siamese bore type motor but isn't the original factory fitted motor

BTW here's one of the weber carbies .

New Land Rover Weber Carburettor Carb Series 3 / 2a | eBay (http://cgi.ebay.com.au/New-Land-Rover-Weber-Carburettor-Carb-Series-3-2a-/170623907711?pt=UK_CarsParts_Vehicles_CarParts_SM&hash=item27b9fa377f)

Reports indicate they tend to run lean ona 2 and 1/4 motor but are JUST RIGHT for a 2 litre series 1 engine. The main negative with them is: the jets are not easy to access , they are difficult to clean out if they become blocked .

[Drew Parker]

FINALLY had a few weeks with this '52 project (chassis 261614455 eng 47111002). It appears to be complete and very original (bar the '54 engine). Seems that stoppage was based on starter removal and it was inoperable since. After refitting the rear oil line and hooking up a petrol feed, the engine started and runs happily at idle but needs carb cleanout.

Had planned to carry out running repairs, but as the chassis and firewall only have light surface rust and all (but one wing bolt) nuts and bolts have happily unscrewed during stripdown..... I have been dragged into a complete rebuild. Two pics below of the old lady.....

The brakelines still held fluid and pistons in both master and slave cylinders are free and functional, but suspect that it'd be sensible to switch over to SIII wheel cylinders.

The petrol tank has some surface rust inside as expected, but still sealed.



Missing and searching for:

Starter ring (have located and bought a replacement starter)
Oil filter
FLHS brake line (T to union)


(all these obviously misplaced when starter taken out)


1952 doors (lower and uppers)
All else is present - 'though some will need some TLC and time. Have a period of enforced employment for the next 6 months overseas during which time I am gathering components / overhaul kits etc...

Any advice on chassis protection? Have in mind to sand blast and repaint - but wonder if phosphoric acid undercoat would be a wise move at that point allowing, treatment of crossmember internals otherwise unreachable with paint??

Sealant treatment of the fuel tank is on the cards. Advice on that welcome.

Although it is sometime in the future, guidance from those in the know on re-registration and presentation for roadworthy sought as I'd hate to ply her with attention only to find that I can't use her on-road. I know the states vary in detail, but gather seatbelts and flashers are not required for that aged vehicle (as not equipped from new) and see Willy's around in FNQ with rear seats. Anyone that can guide me through the QLD paperwork / classic rego would be highly appreciated.

Had a look at some other S1 around the area - many of which are in a sad state.... (both the 86" and 107 have Holdens fitted).

[numpty]

Looks like a great vehicle for resto.

Redkote sealant for the fuel tank is the go. I have used it on a couple of mine with great results.

Perry

[Charlie's brother]

Hi Drew,

I have a 53 80" and I have made new door skins and tailgate. I am happy to assist with dimensions or to fold some up for you if you wish.

If you have some old ones or the jewellery that goes on them ie the hinges, handles and locks then all you have to do is fold up the skins and the bracing and glue them together as suggested by someone else (stronger than original). I have also welded the corners of the skins and that strengthens the whole structure.

Anyway, happy to help.

Nick Myres

[Lotz-A-Landies]

Drew

You will likely find that the starter ring is in one piece with flywheel. This requires that you machine off the current teeth and fit a new ring gear.

Cox and Turner Engineering in the UK have replacements and the instructions on how to turn down your current flywheel.

AFAIK You will also find that the ring gear off a 2 1/4 engine has the same tooth count and profile as your curent flywheel. I seem to remember seeing some NOS ring gear in Hilton Pollard's spares shed, but don't know what model they are off. Drop Master Chief a PM and see if he remembers whats there.

Diana

[Drew Parker]

Thanks Diana - I actually mean the "Housing for starter" (sectIIp32#29 in the parts manual) - being the spacer mounting rather than the flywheel ring. The person removing obviously overlooked the locator bolt option and stripped off the whole housing - both of which were missing from this machine.

Nick - My tailgate is top notch, but I might take you up on guidance for the door skins. Having nothing at hand for 80" I am going to have to start from scratch. One thought was to take a set of later 86" doors (easily available up in FNQ) and modify them by chamfering the rear edge to fit the 80" and reskinning to cover the handle space... any experience with that route?

Perry - when sealing the tank with Redkote, how did you handle the drain plug / hole and how meticulously did you prepare the inside (rust removal)? I have had the tank mounted on the quad carrier shloshing pebbles / sand and water around with fair results so far, but if you have suggestions on a better way to make the insides shine it'd be great to hear them.

thanks to all
drew

[dennisS1]

I would not go down the 86" way, but bit interested in folding up some 80" doors give me a PM if you are interested.
Dennis

[numpty]

Perry - when sealing the tank with Redkote, how did you handle the drain plug / hole and how meticulously did you prepare the inside (rust removal)? I have had the tank mounted on the quad carrier shloshing pebbles / sand and water around with fair results so far, but if you have suggestions on a better way to make the insides shine it'd be great to hear them.

thanks to all
drew

What you are doing is fine, although my tanks weren't rusty inside. I'd steam clean if possible afterwards or at least wash the tank out with hot soapy water. All directions for use of Redkote are with the product, which involves cleaning and rinsing the tank, then using acetone (2 litres) to evaporate any remaining water. Just cover all of the holes with tape, pour in Redkote and make sure it reaches everywhere then stand over a tin to drain it out. They say one can per tank, but I reckon you could do both.

If you're thinking of going to the trouble of modifying doors, I'd go down the path of making new ones as has been suggested.

Perry

[Charlie's brother]

Hi Drew

I have some old skins here that can be used for patterns, I am presuming that the 86" has the same hinge and lock arrangement but I don't know, presumably one of the knowledgeable enthusiasts will be able to tell you.

Nick

[digger]

Drew,
maybe worth having a chat to Ian ("BACK-IN") he made a few door skins
for a late series 1 (so harder than an 80" -I'd imagine) when he restored the vehicle.. (its a jaw dropper - I'll find the link to the thread)

he may be able to give you some hints/tips.

cheers
Digger


<<<edit --the link -- http://www.aulro.com/afvb/series-i-land-rover-enthusiasts-section/64853-rebuilding-109-1958-ute.html >>>

[wrinklearthur]

Just bought 1952 S1 for working restoration. Keen for advice on sourcing original and or replacement parts, esp brakes / ignition and electrics. Am also going to need a pair of front doors at some stage. Thanks Drew
Hi Drew

I traded a Holden powered 86" w/- Hard top and drum winch, in on a 6cly flat tray up at Mareeba in 1973.
I have often wondered what happened to it.
Keep a eye open for it, It was the only 86" around with a chromed, grill and head light rings. It probably became a parts doner years ago, as it (the Holden motor) wasn't well when I sold it.

Cheers Arthur

[Drew Parker]

Will do Arthur

On the doors, I'll hand fire for a few months and see what turns up in the area given that the word is out that I'm looking.... Thanks to all for the suggestions

[dennisS1]

86" (107 etc) are simple to reproduce as they have a steel frame and fit to it by folds and rivets. Replaced all the skins on my 107 wagon and 107 ute. 80" on the other hand have folded Al frame that is spot welded together, a hole different board game.
Dennis

[Drew Parker]

Working overseas stretches out what would otherwise be a fairly quick rebuild. My 52/53 80" came to me via a blind bid on ebay, transported to FNQ and stripped over the last two years when home for hols.

It all came apart!! Only one bolt refusal on LH wing to bulkhead, but lowest and easy to sort out. Some bolts still had clean (anodised?) threads - amazing...

I've sourced almost all I need except for the chrome swivels, brakelines, seat bottoms and doors.

I'll buy new swivels. Still deciding whether to go Raiko or stick with brass (in stock). Are the control arms / pins interchangeable or is the Raiko swap more complicated?

Brakelines... once she is a rolling chassis again I'll get her to Mareeba and have lines made up to suit.

Seats... I'll bodge someting to get her going and come back to that later.

Doors.. I'm still tempted to modify a set of 86" units that I was given - but not a priority.

The wiring loom was far better than expected and only had one additional wire (fitted to overcome switch challenges). All sorted, instrument panel tested (warning lights adapted to accept LEDs), speedo overhauled and horn button rebuilt and functional. The bulkhead / wiring / steering ready to go back on.

Chassis.. had a kink in the FL dumb-iron - easy enough to cut / replate and rejig before sandblasting and painting.

The fuel tank... came back from sandblasting with more ventilation than I had hoped. Anyone have an easy way to remove the skid-plate for repair?

The engine... remains the big unknown. She started and runs fine at idle but clearly needs a carb cleanout. I was lucky enough to pick up a greasepaper new spindle block / air cleaner bends / underfloor chassis pads and bunch of other small items (anyone looking for a brandnew fuelpump mounting plate?) in a lot job, and have a couple of shelves of parts bought or collected over time - but until I get her up onto an engine stand and open her up I'm blind as to whether she's be worked over before. A video probe shows clean exhaust valves and minimal coking in the cylinders / on the pistons.

Springs... the front were fine, but one main on the rear LHS was too pitted to justify taking the risk. Spring shop in Atherton making me one.

Am assembling with polybushes... I gave up struggling with standard rubber bushes many years ago. She is effectively original (Diana reckoned she'd had a '54 engine fitted) and I am after a reliable working machine rather than a show-stopper.

Chassis now on stands, front axle fitted (awaiting replacement of all bushes / bearings / seals) and hopefully the rear can go back on once the spring is back from the wshop... then I can turn to the engine and play with that before fitting.

At this rate it'll be a few years before she's operational. The price of chasing the dollars overseas....

Hope you enjoy the pics

3 pics Cousin took pics before I bought (I was in Sweden at the time)

58315

58316

58317

my girls get hands on

58318

58319

[Drew Parker]

Ever have that itch you couldn't resist?

58322

Chassis kink

58323

Off to the sandblaster

58320

Reassembly starts

58321

[JDNSW]

Reason the threads were still in good shape is that they were "sherardised" (see the Wikipedia article "Sherardising"). This was, and is, the most effective method of protecting steel parts that require to be dimensionally accurate, such as threads. It was used on all body bolts in Landrovers up to about Series 2a, I believe, although I don't know of any specific cutoff. Probably not long after the Leyland merger in the late sixties.

John

[chazza]

I'll buy new swivels. Still deciding whether to go Raiko or stick with brass (in stock). Are the control arms / pins interchangeable or is the Raiko swap more complicated?



I made new swivel pins out of EN26 when I did my railko conversion; however; I believe Dunsfold make a kit, which requires no manufacturing on your part. The steering arms can be retained,

Cheers Charlie

[Lotz-A-Landies]

The "Railko conversion kit" is what's needed to do the modification, which has the correct railko pin to replace the original S1 SII pin. Don't get trapped into gettting a replacement Railko pin which will be the SIIa/SIII top flange and pin.

Remember when you attempt to remove the original splined pin there is a locating pin drilled through the long sides of the flange. You need to remove this pin before pressing out the original pin (although with enough tonnage you can sheer the locating pin)

[russellrovers]

Working overseas stretches out what would otherwise be a fairly quick rebuild. My 52/53 80" came to me via a blind bid on ebay, transported to FNQ and stripped over the last two years when home for hols.

It all came apart!! Only one bolt refusal on LH wing to bulkhead, but lowest and easy to sort out. Some bolts still had clean (anodised?) threads - amazing...

I've sourced almost all I need except for the chrome swivels, brakelines, seat bottoms and doors.

I'll buy new swivels. Still deciding whether to go Raiko or stick with brass (in stock). Are the control arms / pins interchangeable or is the Raiko swap more complicated?

Brakelines... once she is a rolling chassis again I'll get her to Mareeba and have lines made up to suit.

Seats... I'll bodge someting to get her going and come back to that later.

Doors.. I'm still tempted to modify a set of 86" units that I was given - but not a priority.

The wiring loom was far better than expected and only had one additional wire (fitted to overcome switch challenges). All sorted, instrument panel tested (warning lights adapted to accept LEDs), speedo overhauled and horn button rebuilt and functional. The bulkhead / wiring / steering ready to go back on.

Chassis.. had a kink in the FL dumb-iron - easy enough to cut / replate and rejig before sandblasting and painting.

The fuel tank... came back from sandblasting with more ventilation than I had hoped. Anyone have an easy way to remove the skid-plate for repair?

The engine... remains the big unknown. She started and runs fine at idle but clearly needs a carb cleanout. I was lucky enough to pick up a greasepaper new spindle block / air cleaner bends / underfloor chassis pads and bunch of other small items (anyone looking for a brandnew fuelpump mounting plate?) in a lot job, and have a couple of shelves of parts bought or collected over time - but until I get her up onto an engine stand and open her up I'm blind as to whether she's be worked over before. A video probe shows clean exhaust valves and minimal coking in the cylinders / on the pistons.

Springs... the front were fine, but one main on the rear LHS was too pitted to justify taking the risk. Spring shop in Atherton making me one.

Am assembling with polybushes... I gave up struggling with standard rubber bushes many years ago. She is effectively original (Diana reckoned she'd had a '54 engine fitted) and I am after a reliable working machine rather than a show-stopper.

Chassis now on stands, front axle fitted (awaiting replacement of all bushes / bearings / seals) and hopefully the rear can go back on once the spring is back from the wshop... then I can turn to the engine and play with that before fitting.

At this rate it'll be a few years before she's operational. The price of chasing the dollars overseas....

Hope you enjoy the pics

3 pics Cousin took pics before I bought (I was in Sweden at the time)

58315

58316

58317

my girls get hands on

58318

58319
hi doors in stock good and straight jim

[Drew Parker]

[QUOTE=Lotz-A-Landies;1884486]The "Railko conversion kit" is what's needed to do the modification, which has the correct railko pin to replace the original S1 SII pin. Don't get trapped into gettting a replacement Railko pin which will be the SIIa/SIII top flange and pin.




Anyone able to offer advice as to whether this kit

DA3181 SWIVEL HOUSING KIT SERIES 2A & 3 | shop | www.lrseries.com | L. R. Series (http://www.lrseries.com/shop/product/listing/19761/DA3181-SWIVEL-HOUSING-KIT-SERIES-2A-3.html)

contains what is required for this conversion from Raiko to roller bearings?

Appreciated

Drew

[123rover50]

No, not that one. This one.
Land Rover Series 1 ONE Swivel PIN Conversion KIT | eBay (http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/370754282799'ssPageName=STRK:MEWAX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1438.l2649)

Keith

Woops Sorry misread. I thought earlier you were changing to Railco,s from the early spline one.

[Drew Parker]

Hi Keith

The mistake is probably mine.... I have the original brass cones and probably better reclassify my plan as moving to the Railko types....

The kit you shared - does this then fit the standard s2/3 chrome swivels?

Thanks
Drew

[123rover50]

As far as I know they do. Though I havnt bought one yet. I still have the splined pins in both of mine but am thinking of getting these or doing what Charlie did if I ever get the time.
Send the guy a message to confirm if you want to be certain.
Keith

[123rover50]

I would think so but it is probably better to ask the vendor.
I put new chrome balls in one of mine. They had a groove around the circumference of the flange. I had to make thicker packing for the pins as it seemed the depth of the recess was not as deep as the early ones.
I have not used this kit yet and still have splined pins in them both.

Keith

Double post. First time I looked it didnt come up. Slow connection.

[Drew Parker]

Cheers Keith.
Have sent vendor a note asking what he'd be able to assemble by way of a complete set (L/R) incl swivels, pins and other bits and pcs required.
Will share details when he responds for those interested.
D