Warn M8000 winch for a D3

[Ashes]

Looking at winch options at the moment and the candidates I've come across are
Avenger mako tds 9.5
Warn xd9000
Warn m8000

looking at the possibility of importing from the US, the Warn's look pretty good even after some hefty postage.

For occassional, just in case type use, any issues with the specs on a Warn M8000?

Rated Line Pull: = 8000 lbs. equiv 3630kg
Voltage: = 12V
Motor: = 4.8 HP
Remote Control: = Remote switch, 12 ft. lead
Gear Ratio: = 216.1
Size: = 21.04 in. x 6.3 in. x 7.6 in.
Weight: = 80 lbs.
Wire Rope = 100 ft. of 5/16
Fairlead = Roller
Type of Winch: = Electric

cost $USD 539 approx AUD$510

btw.. xd9000 $USD 883

need to factor in $300-$400 postage I suspect.

[Tombie]

Minimum on a D3 would be 9000lb

Preferably 9500lb or higher

[unseenone]

Try DHL for Shipping, maybe less, great tracking, etc.

Warn has a new entry level winch for big savings. I don't know how they hold up, or if they are appropriate. Is it possible ARB has them on their local stocklists?

VR10000 #86255 for as little as 579.00 + mail in rebate.

Locally I found this one, from one of the site advertisers. I don't know anything about it however.

http://www.expeditioncentre.com.au/recovery-gear/1708-tigerz11-12000lb-12v-electric-winch-with-dyneema-rope.html

[oldsalt]

I've just bought the Tigerz11 - 12,000lb winch, got a bag of goodies thrown in as a "May" special, pretty good value - got mine through DNA off-road in Diamond Creek - free delivery - getting it fitted next week.
It's not a "Warn" but for the very occasional use I'll put it to - it will do the job very well.
cheers

[rmp]

Minimum on a D3 would be 9000lb

Preferably 9500lb or higher

why?

[Tombie]

why?

Rule of thumb - 1.5 times minimum the GVM (max) of the rig.

1.5x is around 9400lb...

Add being bogged exerting more force and a healthy reserve on the winch matters.

Then there's maximum rated pull, applicable on only the last wind on the drum...

Most winch recoveries only need a short pull on the outer 1-2 winds of the drum to get you out (no need for all the line) so more power is better...

A 2280kg patrol stuck on a beach a couple of years ago completely stalled a 9000lb winch and barely got out on a double line pull....

[rmp]

Bogged to the axles in sand with no digging out and no driving the load is about equvialent to the weight of the vehicle and an 8000lb is more than GVM. Double-line and there's plenty of torque left and as you say more off the drum. I agree a 9500 is preferable but an 8000 will do the job.

The reason I run only 20m of rope on my winches is precisely because most recoveries don't need the full length. If I need to extend then there's plenty of straps for that.

[roverrescue]

Weight wise what is a stock 200 series tojo compared to a luxo barge D3?

Not long ago myself with a 12000lb winch thru a snatch block, and a mates hilux with 9000lb through a snatch block, both of us chained to trees, both hooked to a stuck POS 200series stuck in mud we had just driven over couldnt budge it - both stalled.

Ended up dropping 6 sapling trees and made double ramps at the front and singles at the back to winch it out - with 30 minutes of shovel work of course.

Doesnt matter what winch you buy with a 3 tonne fourby... buy a chainsaw first ;)

S

[rmp]

A 200 is about the same weight as a D3.

Yes a little digging makes a big difference. Also if a car is hung up, eg diff on a rock, then not even a 15,000 will shift it and you tend to break straps. Having nearly been killed by a flying snatch block in a comp I prefer to let winches stall out rather than keep winching and hoping the car will move.

Interestingly also used a chainsaw over the weekend to free a Pajero caught on a hill with a root inside the steel rim. Couldn't move the car forwards nor backwards till we sawed it free!

[roverrescue]

:)
'Yes a little digging makes a big difference.' The 200 wasnt hung up - it was just a huge 3 tonne dead weight stuck in the mud! I did contemplate leaving it there! Eventually it would have sunk deep enough to give a hard base for others to drive to the fishing hole over! We later established the 'sticking point' was infact a section of seasonal creek that run under ground.....

Considering the puslux and 130 drove throught the sloppy stuff without worries its a shame the flash thing needed a 'little digging', sawing, placing and knee deep mud work. Too heavy too crap.

Anyway, I agree that a chainy is a great piece of reco gear and cheaper than a winch!

peace

S

[kingo]

I'd go as big as your wallet will allow, if weight is a concern, use synthetic rope. I too have seem my 9000lb winch using a snatch block, as well as a second 9500lb using a snatch block struggle to pull a heavily laden LC tray, seriously bogged in Gunshot Ck on the Cape out of trouble. Both cars had to be tied to trees behind to stop them dragging forward and it took about 20-30 mins to get this guy out, the winches needing time to cool down. I had a GU Patrol at the time and feel the 9000lb would have struggled in the same situation if I had to recover myself. Have the same winch now on my D3, have only needed it few times, so should last. Do remember to run it from time to time, as they can get water in them and need to dry out, talking from experience, mine needed a strip down years ago and clean out, as it stopped working.
If they are that cheap from the US don't hold back.
Good luck
Andrew
PS, I have a Magnum from ARB, was told its basically a Warn with different motor.

[trobbo]

I agree a 9500 is preferable but an 8000 will do the job.

The reason I run only 20m of rope on my winches is precisely because most recoveries don't need the full length. If I need to extend then there's plenty of straps for that.

Your not trying hard enough Rob :)

Most of the time with my D1 - if it get's stuck. It is stuck and I regularily used the full 45m available off the drum of the highmount allowing for a 7 wrap minimum on the drum. And then sometimes straps were required and that's when things have the potential to get more dangerous.

Some people will join winch rope to straps with shackles (I don't) and of course you have the hook in the middle of the recovery situation which could prove lethal if your gear breaks.

I'm more with the school of thought that you should allow a bit of extra capacity in your recovery gear because you dont want it failing when your using it.

For the D3, personally, I wouldn't put anything less than a 9500lb winch on.

[oldsalt]

What is the "correct" method of joining a winch rope if you have to extend it ... I'm new to this field and would appreciate any input.
cheers :)
P.S. yes I can hear Rob already - and I will be doing the "recovery course" offered by LROCV .... but in the meantime any helpful tips are worth noting ...

[trobbo]

First thing is you should treat all recovery situations as dangerous and make sure everyone is well back from the situation. The length of cable or strap in use is the distance from the car you need to be. So if 30 meters of cable is out you need to be at least 30 meters to the side of the stuck vehicle on a right angle to the recovery procedure.

The type of equipment you use will vary how you carry out your recovery.

Synthetic winch rope has less recoil than wire rope and is much easier to handle.
Winch extension straps and tree trunk protectors dont store kinetic energy like snatch straps do and so therefore also dont have as much recoil as snatch straps.
But if any of the above break they will recoil to a certain extent and you dont want to be in their path if they do spring back.

Someone may wish to add to this

Someone may wish to add to this

If you are wishing to join your winch cable to the winch extension strap then I use the hook on the end of the cable to join onto the loop in the strap BUT ALWAYS drape a heavy blanket or similiar over the cable near the hook.

It gets more difficult if you need to join two extension straps (or two snatch straps) and for this situation I always carry a piece of turned hardwood timber of about 6 - 7 cm diameter and about 30 cm long. The weight of the wood being sufficient so that it won't be flung far by the strap and strong enough so that it wont be compressed and ripped in half. I then feed the loop of one strap through the loop of the other. Place the log in the loop of the first strap then pull the two straps in opposite directions to place a preliminary load on the log and hold it in place. For winching you can then start to apply load. Recheck all is in order when the cable first becomes suspended (not a high load) and then continue if in order.

For each strap in use you add another cable dampner to the process.

Because of the nature of a snatch you do not have the preliminary check in the middle of the process. IMO you should still drape something over the snatch straps to reduce recoil.

I have also seen people use a mag or newspaper rolled up in place of the log for snatch situations... but I'm not convinced it would be strong enough so withstand the higher loads of some recovery situations.

Having seen many ropes and straps break it appears to me most breakages occur near the end of the cable or strap unless it has rubbed in the middle on something sharp like a rock edge. Wire cables will break where there is a kink or split strands.

[rmp]

Your not trying hard enough Rob :)

Most of the time with my D1 - if it get's stuck. It is stuck and I regularily used the full 45m available off the drum of the highmount allowing for a 7 wrap minimum on the drum. And then sometimes straps were required and that's when things have the potential to get more dangerous.

Some people will join winch rope to straps with shackles (I don't) and of course you have the hook in the middle of the recovery situation which could prove lethal if your gear breaks.

I'm more with the school of thought that you should allow a bit of extra capacity in your recovery gear because you dont want it failing when your using it.

For the D3, personally, I wouldn't put anything less than a 9500lb winch on.

Well you must go offroad in a different area to me then, as I can generally find a tree within 20m, or a single winch ext strap at most. However my record is 100m, one night in Toolangi from 2am to 4am, in rain, recovering a Jeep.

I do not believe in making everything as strong as possible. Everything needs a fuse, and if something is going to fail, then the winch running out of steam is preferable to something breaking. Simply, if you have a double-line pull for a 4WD and that's still not enough then something is wrong. If the winch runs out of puff nothing breaks.

[rmp]

Magazines etc in straps work just fine. It is compression strength not shear.