Got a P38! 14hrs ago

[Hobbes]

Hi all,
Well after a long search my good mate Jock & I finally picked up a P38 in Noosa and just completed the 14hr punt back to Sydney. Not a post 99 as we originally looked for, but a seriously immaculate low k MY95. Bit different to my 90RRC I must say....(ok I'm impressed)
Anyway few issues to deal with as you'd expect (but not daunted). Here's the initial list:

Hevac:

LCD display - randomly losing "pixels" ie temp display is missing sections but err..randomly - seems worse when another electrics load is on, like headlights
obviously an overall control issue as the passenger footwell blows ice cold always, temp control doesn't seem to work and the whole thing turned to hot output at one stage
Check (cheque?) Book symbol is of course on


I have a couple of theories:

dodgy multipin connectors back of the control unit
fuse box dry joints/relays


What do guys think?? Where's the best place to start?

cheers
Chris

[RR P38]

Sounds like you are in for some repairs.

The AC issue is almost certainly the blend motors. I would check the relay in the fuse box under the bonnet, the one`(s) for the blower motors, (carefully pull it out and see what the fuse box under it looks like)

I have never had a problem with the pixels on my message centre allthough i have replaced the odd bulb behind it over the years.

Check your battery out as well (volts) quite a few problems may arise from a clapped out battery.
I run lead calcium 1150CCA battery only in mine, im onto my second one in 10yrs of owning my P38.

As you no doubt know you will find most solutions to your gremlins on this forum.

[Hobbes]

Thanks - I agree. Blend motors are definitely top of the list - at least one possibly sick.
- the battery has tested good (and certainly doesn't sound tired at all) however, I'll pop the (brand new) Ultima from the RRC in just check first..then pull the fuse box and give it a good inspection for dry joints and refresh the relays .... I'm going to have a crack at that before pulling the dash - seems a easier place to start!

Is it worth doing a Faultmate/Testbook diagnostic first....?

[RR P38]

Yes if you have diagnostic equipment access it will show where most faults reside.

[Keithy P38]

Faultmate is your friend! Sounds like a great bit of P38 you've picked up, but it never happened without pics :-)

[stig0000]

you dident see my old mans p38 then :D:wasntme:

[strange_rover1]

Also go to RR.net i think it is. They have a great fault section on all Rangies.
Shano

[adm333]

The LCD display on the HEVAC is a tricky one. I believe there is a possible fix but it is very finnicky.

I simply bought a second hand unit from a wrecker (TR Spares in SA) and plugged it in. Apparently there are some improvements in later model units so try and get a later model unit, it all just plugs straight in.

Cost me about $250 from memory, never had a problem since.

Dave

[adm333]

you dident see my old mans p38 then :D:wasntme:

Is that the red one in the markets section ?

If so, looks like a veeerrrrry nice unit.

Will be interesting to see if he gets that price though. A bit lower and I would be interested.

Dave

[Hobbes]

you dident see my old mans p38 then :D:wasntme:

Yup - and very nice it is too...just not got that amount of cash!
But you know I don't think it's that expensive - they'll be someone who actually doesn't like pulling dashboards apart at the weekend!

[Hobbes]

The LCD display on the HEVAC is a tricky one. I believe there is a possible fix but it is very finnicky.

I simply bought a second hand unit from a wrecker (TR Spares in SA) and plugged it in. Apparently there are some improvements in later model units so try and get a later model unit, it all just plugs straight in.

Cost me about $250 from memory, never had a problem since.

Dave

Thanks Dave - I found a great write up rangerovers.net on the fix for the LCD. It's actually something I'm familiar with! (In my previous life as the tech roadie for Pink Floyd a loose ribbon cable was common on electronic keyboards that had been bounced around in the back of a semitrailer between gigs)

But $250 is a really good deal actually..mmm!

Also on that site there's a couple of great tips on accessing the blend motors without following the workshop manual strip down technique - so once work slows down I'll give it a go and post up some picks of the carnage!
Chris

[wayneg]

Let us know how you get on. I had mine apart and the ribbon cable was in a bad way where it attached to the PCB, looked like heat over the years had done its work. Could net get a good connection as much as I tried. I did post and asked if anyone knew of a way to replace the cable, do you?

[Hobbes]

I will - (it'll be a few weeks until I get to it).
However, for those contemplating it the best write ups are from Ron Beckett P38arover who's definately been there and done it - lots of pics re backlight in the P38 section of rangerovers.net at LCD Backlight Repair (http://www.rangerovers.net/repairdetails/lcdlights.html)

Also from the forum of same a write up with pics of the lcd ribbon cable to the LCD: RangeRovers.net • View topic - Climate Control Fix (pictures) (http://rangerovers.net/forum/viewtopic.php?f=3&t=29920&hilit=Hevac+display)

and from Jimsrover a LR tech bulletin for replacing the motherboard in the Hevac unit: http://jimsrover.afraid.org/rover/Technical%20Bulletins/Heating%20and%20Ventilation/HVAC%20Printed%20Circuit%20Board.pdf

[Junosi]

Simplest/cheapest fix for the HEVAC display pixels is to buy a known good used one from UK eBay and jsut swap the front part over to yours. Did that to mine and it's like new now for around $50