Look what I bought today

[outback jeff]

I bought this today, not sure what year , I think its early 50's, most parts are there. But it does have a Holden motor, so I will be serching for a original, will put up more photos when I get it home.

Cheers Jeff

35787

[Lotz-A-Landies]

Jeff at a quick glance I'd say you have a very late 1950 or 1951.

More than that geven the type of grill badge, my guess is it's a late 1950.

Diana

[outback jeff]

Diana,

What made me think it was early 50's was it has the little lights on the top of the fire wall ( I think there parking lights ) and i've only seen them on early 50's series 1's. I think I have got a great starting point, I can't wait to get home , when I do I'll check out numbers to see exactly what year it is. The other interesting thing about it is the rear tail lights and indicators have the army type surronds on them, I have never seen that on a series 1, any thoughts?

Cheers Jeff

[d@rk51d3]

Ain't she sweet.


Well done. ;)

[Mick_Marsh]

Love it!

[slug_burner]

Diana,

What made me think it was early 50's was it has the little lights on the top of the fire wall ( I think there parking lights ) and i've only seen them on early 50's series 1's. I think I have got a great starting point, I can't wait to get home , when I do I'll check out numbers to see exactly what year it is. The other interesting thing about it is the rear tail lights and indicators have the army type surronds on them, I have never seen that on a series 1, any thoughts?

Cheers Jeff

Does it have shackles on the front or the back of the front springs?

I'd say that the tailight surrounds are a later addition of a 2a or later.

[Lotz-A-Landies]

Diana,

What made me think it was early 50's was it has the little lights on the top of the fire wall ( I think there parking lights ) and i've only seen them on early 50's series 1's. < Yes the firewall side lights were only fitted from 1948 till very late in 1951 production. AULRO member Larry has a late 1951 without the firewall side lamps. The good thing about them is you can work on the engine with the sidelights on. >I think I have got a great starting point, I can't wait to get home , when I do I'll check out numbers to see exactly what year it is. The other interesting thing about it is the rear tail lights and indicators have the army type surronds on them, I have never seen that on a series 1, any thoughts? < Retro fitted >

Cheers Jeffyou'll be looking for a number 061????? for a 1950 or 16?6????. For both those they should be on the transfer box instruction plate near the steering wheel. The chassis number will be stamped on the flat top of the LHS engine mount (or very unlikely on the top of the chassis rail just in front of the same engine mount - this only happened at Annand & Thompson and usually only on the 1952 and later vehicles.

The tail lamp guards were usually only fitted to government contract vehicles, mostly the Army ones, but I have never seen them as original equipment on an 80" IRL or in archival photos.

The 80" are great fun for thin people of average height or shorter but are a squeeze if the circumference has expanded over the years! ;)

[series1buff]

One of the local wrecks I found was a "in-between" type with the larger 7" headlights, but still with skinny front springs. That set up was original factory for a short period. If you follow the factory change over point car number sequence, it all adds up Maybe that outback jeff one is similar. Or could be a retro-fit later grill in it ?

Mike

[ezyrama]

" The 80" are great fun for thin people of average height or shorter but are a squeeze if the circumference has expanded over the years! ;):o:o:o

In that case I might not be able to buy that S1 I found, (It's a 52 and has the Annand & Thompson badge on the right hand side of the steering wheel). Nice one though Jeff.

Cheers Ian

[outback jeff]

Here are a couple of extra photos
35796[35797

35798

35799

[crash]

That wire basket on the bonnett looks special, I presume that it is aftermarket

[outback jeff]

That wire basket on the bonnett looks special, I presume that it is aftermarket

It's very special, if anybody needs one I'll give it a good home. So good that when you lift the bonnet it hits the windscreen. Still , there are worst things that could have been done and at least I can just un-bolt it.

Cheers Jeff

[Mick-Kelly]

Based on the lack of ring pull gearbox i m guessing late 50 model. Does it have fish tail attachments for the front bumper? Mine was built Sept 49 (car number 06101688) and sent out as a 50 model and it has the ring pull and fishtails. I think yours is a smidge newer.

[LRO53]

My guess it's a Early 1951 Model. Going off the the catches for holding the windscreen upright changed from being the straight type to the curved type at 16661407

This vehicle as straight type from what i can see in the photo. Also the pivot pins holding the windscreen on are bolts so that was very very late 50 (L06115323)when they went back to bolts. (From what i can see)

If it's a Annand and Thompson the chassis number will be stamped along the front passenger side rail (very holden motor conversion friendy) infront of the engine mount. It's in quite lightly stamped and large letters.

[Lotz-A-Landies]

My guess it's a Early 1951 Model. Going off the the catches for holding the windscreen upright changed from being the straight type to the curved type at 16661407

This vehicle as straight type from what i can see in the photo. Also the pivot pins holding the windscreen on are bolts so that was very very late 50 (L06115323)when they went back to bolts. (From what i can see)

If it's a Annand and Thompson the chassis number will be stamped along the front passenger side rail (very holden motor conversion friendy) infront of the engine mount. It's in quite lightly stamped and large letters.Are you sure about that? My 16661747 A&T 1951 model had the numbers stamped in the regular place using relatively small number punches.

I don't think the chassis top numbering happened at A&T till 1952 or 1953 as I mentioned above.

[outback jeff]

Based on the lack of ring pull gearbox i m guessing late 50 model. Does it have fish tail attachments for the front bumper? Mine was built Sept 49 (car number 06101688) and sent out as a 50 model and it has the ring pull and fishtails. I think yours is a smidge newer.

Mick, what is a ring pull gearbox & bumper fishtails? I am still learning all the landrover terms.

Cheers Jeff

[outback jeff]

I'm off to pick it up in the morning and should be home around lunch time, so I will search for model number and chassis and take more photos. By about 5 pm I'll see what happens when the wife gets home , by which time I'll be on my way to watch the Reds play in Brisbane. Hopefuly I wont need my swag, its very cold here this week.

Thanks to all who put up replies, I'm sure I will have many more questions as the fun of the rebuild starts, anyway I think its time for a beer.

Cheers Jeff

[Lotz-A-Landies]

Mick, what is a ring pull gearbox & bumper fishtails? I am still learning all the landrover terms.

Cheers JeffJeff

it's all very confusing! :)

Ring pull: the very early 80" engaged the freewheel lock by pulling up on a ring at the end of a chain recessed into the floor just below the hand-brake lever. In mid 1950 the ring and chain were replaced by a yellow knob on a spring loaded shaft that protruded from the side of the transmission tunnel next to the main gearstick. The function of the yellow knob at this time, however was the same as the ring pull. It locked the freewheel unit so that you had 4WD in reverse.

Fish-plate chassis: The very early 80" from 1948 through mid 1950 had metal plates which resembled fish tails welded to the front "dumb irons" of the chassis rails. The front bumper bar was inserted in between these fish-tail shaped plates and bolted on with 8 short bolts and nuts. From mid 1950, the fish plates were discontinued and rectangular brackets were welded onto the bumper bar before they were galvanised. These rectangular brackets slipped over the dumb irons and 4 long bolts held the bumper bar onto the chassis.

Freewheel unit and Selectable transfer boxes: From 1948 up-to and including about two thousand 1951 cars, had freewheel units attached to the front output-shaft of the transfer box. These freewheel units allowed the front axle to spin faster than the rear axle and prevented transmission wind-up when used in 4WD on paved roads. It was a constant 4WD system. Unfortunately in reverse the freewheel unit prevented the drive getting to the front axles. To overcome this function the lock function of ring pull or yellow button was used. You released the free-wheel lock by selecting low range and then back to high range using the lever with the red knob.

Selectable 2WD/4WD transfer boxes. After the first two thousand gearboxes for 1951 were fitted, the freewheel units were removed and were replaced by a simple dog-clutch arrangement. In high range constant 4WD was gone and you drove around in rear wheel drive. To select 4WD in high range you depressed the yellow button and a spring mechanism locked the dog-clutch in the front output and 4WD was obtained. You were always in 4WD in low range. As in the earlier freewheel units, to disengage 4WD you select low range and then high range using the lever with the red knob and the yellow knob should pop up. The selectable transfer box design continued unchanged until the middle of the 1980's when the coil sprung 90 and 110 models were relesed.

Diana

[series1buff]

If you take the time to read the car number changeover/mod. sequence compiled by Mike Bishop ( found on the LRSOC site and at least one other site) , it tells the whole story. Lots of minor changes along the way to learn about, apart from the major ones.

Mike

[fc110]

In fact pre-pros & possibly very very early 80s had part time 4wd & freewheel because there was an extra dog to disengage the front axle completely. (Three knobs on pre-pro bulkheads.) Later freewheel housings do actually retain the casting bits for this, but I think the extra metal was eventually removed from the mould??? I have some NEW shafts for this early freewheel arrangement, ex Champions Adelaide. It is illustrated in Parts Cat TP 111/B, 12/48 revised 4/50, with a spacer to jam the engaging dog in position, so the front axle was permanently engaged. The "TRANSFER BOX nos". were up to 861988. I have never seen a numbered transfer case.

Jeff


Ring pull: the very early 80" engaged the freewheel lock by pulling up on a ring at the end of a chain recessed into the floor just below the hand-brake lever. In mid 1950 the ring and chain were replaced by a yellow knob on a spring loaded shaft that protruded from the side of the transmission tunnel next to the main gearstick. The function of the yellow knob at this time, however was the same as the ring pull. It locked the freewheel unit so that you had 4WD in reverse.

Diana

[outback jeff]

I have my new toy home, I have removed a small plate that was on the left side of the fire wall and it has the number 06108390 stamped on it can you tell from that what year it is?

jeff

[Mick-Kelly]

I have my new toy home, I have removed a small plate that was on the left side of the fire wall and it has the number 06108390 stamped on it can you tell from that what year it is?

jeff

Well mine (06101688) is built Sept 49, so yours is 6702 cars after mine.

[ezyrama]

Well Jeff, are you in the dog house or what????:)

[Lotz-A-Landies]

I have my new toy home, I have removed a small plate that was on the left side of the fire wall and it has the number 06108390 stamped on it can you tell from that what year it is?

jeffCar/Chassis Number R06108390 Engine Number 06108960 Ign Key: MRN 19, Fitted with PTO, Allocated to NSW Dealer: Ritter Bros. Moree, Date: 5.6.50.

This vehicle should have the wide transom behind the front seats with the sprung shovel shaped backrest, a yellow button freewheel lock, steel handbrake lever (no bakelite handle) and the 5" butler headlamps behind the grill panel.

Jeff, have just viewed the extra images you posted recently. Can you also take an image of the little wall behind the drivers seats and an image of the front of the seats.

Can you also check the chassis number? With the bonnet open, with torch, wire brush and scraper in hand. Lean over the LHS mudguard and look straight down where the engine mount is on the top of the chassis. Parallel to the inner mudguard on the flat top of the mount you should see a number that matches the one on your little plate.

The reason, I think the rear tub and seats for your car are off a later model. The rear Land Rover name badge looks to be off a 1951 or later car.

Diana

[outback jeff]

Well Jeff, are you in the dog house or what????:)

No mate , don't have to sleep in the shed with the cats. She took it pretty well, I've been warning her for months this would happen, not sure what will happen if I bring the other one home I've made an offer on, might try the line it's for her. and to top the day off the Reds won

Cheers Jeff

[outback jeff]

Diana

Here are the photos you asked for. The hand break has steel handle, haven't been able to read the chassis number, I'll let you know when i do

Cheers Jeff

35858

35859

[LRO53]

Are you sure about that? My 16661747 A&T 1951 model had the numbers stamped in the regular place using relatively small number punches.

I don't think the chassis top numbering happened at A&T till 1952 or 1953 as I mentioned above.

Hi Diana,

I've got an Annand and Thompson 16661741 which i can get a photo of where it is stamped tomorrow. It's on the rail.

Funnly enough 1741 and 1747 are in the same batch that went to Annand and Thompson

16661741 to 16661758 Desp In: 16-02-51 Desp Out: 19-02-51 To: A and T

I have seen both what you decribe as small punch's on another annand and t vehicle as well. I think in 1951 they were alternating between the two!

If you could get a photo it would be great.

Alex

[LRO53]

Car/Chassis Number R06108390 Engine Number 06108960 Ign Key: MRN 19, Fitted with PTO, Allocated to NSW Dealer: Ritter Bros. Moree, Date: 5.6.50.

This vehicle should have the wide transom behind the front seats with the sprung shovel shaped backrest, a yellow button freewheel lock, steel handbrake lever (no bakelite handle) and the 5" butler headlamps behind the grill panel.

Jeff, have just viewed the extra images you posted recently. Can you also take an image of the little wall behind the drivers seats and an image of the front of the seats.

Can you also check the chassis number? With the bonnet open, with torch, wire brush and scraper in hand. Lean over the LHS mudguard and look straight down where the engine mount is on the top of the chassis. Parallel to the inner mudguard on the flat top of the mount you should see a number that matches the one on your little plate.

The reason, I think the rear tub and seats for your car are off a later model. The rear Land Rover name badge looks to be off a 1951 or later car.

Diana

Further to this
06108390
Desp In: 23-02-1950
Desp Out: 27-02-1950
To: Grenville Motors
In a batch of CKD's

[wattysan]

Hi Jeff, you have been in the dog house with the missus for years. Your boy was right about the Crusaders also.

The photos you showed me at the Reds didn't do it justice, it is much more work now that I have seen it in bigger images but looks like more fun than keeping a Disco on the road. I will have to pay a visit to give you some well thought out advice whilst leaning on the shed with a beer.

I also note Lots a Landies Quote regarding thin people. Having never driven one myself, it will be worth seeing if that statement is true.

[outback jeff]

Well I've spent another day pulling it down and so far no major surprises, just the top rear shock mounts will need sone repair ,( see photo below ). I think that it has never been washed by the amount of dirt and crud on the chassis. that aside I'm pretty happy with the progress, some of the bolts proved to hard and I had to resort to using an angle grinder, but I have removed the radiator and light pannel, the seat box and rear tub. I'm having trouble getting the pedals off , so any tip would be great. Here are a couple more photos. Its time for a beer or five

Cheers Jeff

35886
35887

35888

[outback jeff]

I also note Lots a Landies Quote regarding thin people. Having never driven one myself, it will be worth seeing if that statement is true.

Mate you know I'm only a small bloke I'll have no trouble fitting behind the wheel, although I would want to be much taller. You should have come out today I could have used you to hold spanners for me. Gotta go and have that beer

Cheers Jeff

[outback jeff]

Spent some more time pulling bits of my 80, I now have down to just the firewall and running gear. I have also have uncovered the number stamped on the chassis, it is 1058 (stamped in big numbers ) then 16160306 (stamped in smaller numbers ). Should this be the same as the one on the firewall, because it is 06108390? The dismantling is trying at times with most bolts very hard to undo even with ample amounts of possum p applied and some left to soak for a couple of days. One of the big bolts that hold the firewall on is not budging at all , I think I'll have to get a longer spanner from work or a longer piece of pipe. Thats all for now, I'm off to have some medicinal beers.

Cheers Jeff

[back_in]

Hi Diana
A thought
narrow transom would be the one for that no. I would have thought
off to the Mother country for 12 weeks on wed.
anything I could bring back for you?
cheers
Ian

[LRO53]

Spent some more time pulling bits of my 80, I now have down to just the firewall and running gear. I have also have uncovered the number stamped on the chassis, it is 1058 (stamped in big numbers ) then 16160306 (stamped in smaller numbers ). Should this be the same as the one on the firewall, because it is 06108390? The dismantling is trying at times with most bolts very hard to undo even with ample amounts of possum p applied and some left to soak for a couple of days. One of the big bolts that hold the firewall on is not budging at all , I think I'll have to get a longer spanner from work or a longer piece of pipe. Thats all for now, I'm off to have some medicinal beers.

Cheers Jeff


Looks like it's got a 51 chassis and 50 firewall. Will be interesting to see what gearbox number it has.

[series1buff]

Hi Diana
A thought
narrow transom would be the one for that no. I would have thought
off to the Mother country for 12 weeks on wed.
anything I could bring back for you?
cheers
Ian


Bring back Princess Kate's sister for me .

[outback jeff]

Looks like it's got a 51 chassis and 50 firewall. Will be interesting to see what gearbox number it has.

Ok where do I find the gearbox number?

Cheers Jeff

[back_in]

All I could say to that would be
do you want me to Kill the millions in front of you
just to miss out myself
cheers
Ian

[outback jeff]

Well did have some good luck today. I was talking to one of the blokes that I work with today and he asked me if I had picked up my series 1, he thensaid that he had some old Landrover parts in his back shed and if I wanted them I could have them. About an hour or so later he walked into my office with this,
36206
I could have kissed him as the one on mine has been butchered and I never thought I would be able to get the right one.
Then this afternoon the bloke across the road came over and told me that he has a trade in sheet metal work and has offered to fix any of the damaged pannels and that he has a mig and tig welder so any welding I need done just bring it over.

Time for a beer

Cheers Jeff

[chazza]

Nice one Jeff :D

Good old back_in gave me one for my car and wouldn't take anything for it! What a champ!

Cheers Charlie

[JDNSW]

Ok where do I find the gearbox number?

Cheers Jeff

On the RH side of the gearbox, just in front of the transfer case, and near the top of the main casting, stamped horizontally. It is on later ones anyway, but I expect it is on 80".

It is not any cast numbers - these are casting or part numbers.

John

[wrinklearthur]

Well did have some good luck today. I was talking to one of the blokes that I work with today and he asked me if I had picked up my series 1, he thensaid that he had some old Landrover parts in his back shed and if I wanted them I could have them. About an hour or so later he walked into my office with this,
36206
I could have kissed him as the one on mine has been butchered and I never thought I would be able to get the right one.
Then this afternoon the bloke across the road came over and told me that he has a trade in sheet metal work and has offered to fix any of the damaged pannels and that he has a mig and tig welder so any welding I need done just bring it over.

Time for a beer

Cheers Jeff
D**n then I woke up. :zzz:[bigsad]

[outback jeff]

I have not spent as much time on my project as I would like. However I have removed the firewall and this afternoon with the help of my next door neighbour's and his work truck (with Hiab) we removed the engine.

36509Hiabs make engine removal easy
36510Have a look at the grunge in the bottom of the bell housing
36511Slowly coming apart

Time now for a beers, till next update

Cheers Jeff

[russellrovers]

I bought this today, not sure what year , I think its early 50's, most parts are there. But it does have a Holden motor, so I will be serching for a original, will put up more photos when I get it home.

Cheers Jeff

35787
hi geff good find the battery box early type jim

[outback jeff]

I have nearly got my toy down to the chasis. However there are a few parts that I can't get off.

Firstly the cotter pins that hold on the clutch pedal on, I can't get them out . See photo below
37017

Second the steering pivot thing at the frount of the chassis, don't know what I'm doing wrong but I can't get out.
37018

Third see photo below. Does this come out? I can't work out if it does or not.
37019

So if anyone can tell me how to get these parts off I would be very grateful.
Time for beers.

Cheers Jeff

[The ho har's]

The photos are a bit hard to see what you are referring too, the second photo however is the steering relay, very hard to remove, a very common problem, we oxyed out ours as the chassis was rusty, be very careful with it as it has a spring in it under tension.

Mrs hh:angel:

[JDNSW]

1. Clutch pedal cotter pins - probably tapered - are you trying the right way?

2. Steering relay. These seem to be either loose or immovable - I built a far trailer out of a series chassis - still got the relay on it! Try copious quantities of penetrating oil, and a substantial puller. As a last resort, you could try disassembling the relay (extreme caution - heavy spring danger!) If you remove the cover one end by undoing the bolts and tap the works up until the split bush starts to appear and then clamp it with a hose clip, adding a second one half an inch lower down, and repeat when the bottom bush appears, the spring will be held compressed and safe. You could then heat the relay from the inside to break the rust holding it. An alternative would be to cut a hole about an inch in diameter in the cross member (front and rear) in way of the relay, to allow you to heat the tube surrounding the relay. This is likely to be more effective, but will mean you will later have to repair the holes.

3. Shock absorber mount I think. I do not believe it is detachable.

Hope this helps

John

[slug_burner]

When I pulled my 80" apart I found a gas torch to heat and get things to expand to be my best option for rusty bits. You might need a couple of cycles. Combined with a blow from a hammer at the time when expansion is at it's max will yield the best results. Luckily I have not had to resort to oxy to cut things out yet.

[series1buff]

jeff

the last pic (3) is the hand brake shaft where the actuating lever fits on ... That one on your vehicle looks OK, they do wear into a oval shape as over many years the hand brake is pulled on and off. It would be a bugger to get out , so leave it there if its still round .

I saw a pic of a device made up to remove the steering relay with a hydraulic car jack .

The pedal thing is a cotter pin like push bikes used to have , you hit it out from one side as it's got a tapered flat on one side. Some heat would help if it's stuck.

Mike

[outback jeff]

Ok, Thanks to all who have provided advice. My question now is , Is the steering relay supose to pull out the top? , or Can it be hammered out from the bottom?

Thanks again Jeff

[JDNSW]

Ok, Thanks to all who have provided advice. My question now is , Is the steering relay supose to pull out the top? , or Can it be hammered out from the bottom?

Thanks again Jeff

Yes, it comes out upwards. I would go easy on hammering it, especially if you are planning to reuse it. Also, you may run a risk of breaking the bolts on the top plate allowing the shaft, spring and bushes to come out, and in this case the spring propelling bits may cause injuries or damage.

John

[outback jeff]

Yes, it comes out upwards. I would go easy on hammering it, especially if you are planning to reuse it. Also, you may run a risk of breaking the bolts on the top plate allowing the shaft, spring and bushes to come out, and in this case the spring propelling bits may cause injuries or damage.

John

Thanks John, I think it and the clutch pedal are going to have to stay in. I'll just have to make sure the sand blaster is careful in those areas.
Time for an inspirational beer or two.

Cheers Jeff

[outback jeff]

Finally after a bit more tinkering, I have got my 80 down to the bare chassis, well as bare as I can get it, as the steering relay and the clutch pedal are still in and won't budge, I'll just see if the sand blasters can be careful in those areas. I'll check out the sand blasters on Monday . So the fun of putting it all back together can start, I do think that it will take a lot longer to put back together than it took to pull it apart ( I just hope I can remember where everything goes). I am happy with how it is going and I may have found an original engine , but that is another story.
Time for a well earned beer or five

Cheers Jeff ( and good luck to the Reds in Super Rugby Final)

37296

[outback jeff]

Yesterday I was in Brisbane and the event that I was at was just around the corner from MR Automotive, so I droped in to have a chat and a look. While I was there I had a look at the Series 1 their doing up and I noticed that the gearbox in it was different from mine. So what I was wondering was could somebody tell me what model it came from ? The number stamped on it is 34313793 with an E stamped below the number.
38690
There is also 2DN stamped on the transfer case.
38691
Here is a shot of the gearbox.
38692
When I first got this series one the nob on the bell housing ( where my son is pointing ) for the starter motor was sticking through the piece that goes over the gear stick and other leavers.
38693
Any info would be great.

Cheers Jeff

PS is there a tutorial on the forum for posting photos, I got the photobucket thing worked out, but I can't get bigger photos up. j

[outback jeff]

I got my chassis back form the sandblasters today, sandblasting and priming cost a grand total of $180 , which I thought was pretty good as I was originally quoted $180 just for sandblasting. I very happy with the result and there are not many repairs that need to be done.
39649
The only other thing that I have done lately is strip the rear axle and get it ready for painting and replacing the bearings. It is slowly moving along, at least now I can paint the chassis and start putting things back on. Anyway it is Friday so its time for beers

Cheers Jeff

[series1buff]

That is a very good deal for a blast and prime of a chassis....:soapbox:

[outback jeff]

That is a very good deal for a blast and prime of a chassis....:soapbox:

Mike

Thats the advantage of having lots of manafacturing companies based here where I live, there are a few other companies that are based here that I will be using during my rebuild.

Jeff

[outback jeff]

Hi All,

Well it's two years since I have put anything up about my Series 1, so I thought I should explain. Just after I put up my last post I had a change of jobs, it was a lot harder job than what I had been doing, it took me away from home on regular intervals, but I was enjoying the challenge of the new job and it paid really well and I had a vehicle with private use. This didn't leave me a lot of time to work on the Series 1, I did some things like buy better axles and some panels that were in better condition than the ones I had and I have painted the chassis. Then earlier this year the pressure of the job got to me and I was diagnosed with depression (that is something I wouldn't wish on anyone). Since being diagnosed I have changed jobs again to one with a lot less stress and as long as I keep taking my "happy pills" I will continue to overcome the depression. This also means I can get back into the Series 1 and get it back on track. Hopefully I will be putting up regular updates of how it's going, starting today with a picture of the springs with new bushes and painted. Till the next up date.

Cheers jeff

http://i924.photobucket.com/albums/ad84/jeffcon13/IMG_0159_zps60694c35.jpg

[outback jeff]

Hi All, Have done a couple of things in the past couple of weeks'

Fitted the motor and gearbox for a trial to see if everything lined up,http://i924.photobucket.com/albums/ad84/jeffcon13/null_zpsd45b6a66.jpg (http://s924.photobucket.com/user/jeffcon13/media/null_zpsd45b6a66.jpg.html)

Prepped and painted som parts,http://i924.photobucket.com/albums/ad84/jeffcon13/null_zps05c3c38e.jpg (http://s924.photobucket.com/user/jeffcon13/media/null_zps05c3c38e.jpg.html)

Put the bulkhead in the molasses bath,http://i924.photobucket.com/albums/ad84/jeffcon13/null_zps1da274dc.jpg (http://s924.photobucket.com/user/jeffcon13/media/null_zps1da274dc.jpg.html)

Till next time, Cheers Jeff

[outback jeff]

Haven't done much lately but I have had the bulkhead soaking in molasses, this is what it looked like after it come out

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2013/12/199.jpg (http://s924.photobucket.com/user/jeffcon13/media/Series%201/B8A0902D-B616-4ABF-9F3E-C538208B3C11_zpsa5kneev5.jpg.html)

So my series 1 was yellow at one time, mmmm, that give me an idea

Cheers Jeff