173,000kms on my D3

[Busman]

I am interested to hear from D3 & RRS owners who have milage over say 150,000kms.
What are the main issues you have found to date with your vehicle???
I have spent just on $11,000 in 8 months on mine, but has anyone experienced many issues with their car, or had a pretty good run to date??
One thing l have to note is my D3 was one of the first D3's, Jan 05.
Wonder if the later year models ironed out various issues??

[trobbo]

wow what have you had done?

I replaced the air compressor recently - 158K

things like tyres and brakes are normal wear items so I wouldn't count those. $100+ though for dealer supplied wiper blades is unreasonable.

[Geedublya]

Mine now has 216000 I got it with 208000. When I bought it I factored in new suspension struts as I figured they would be worn out. I had them replaced with bilsteins ($2300) which were revalved to suit the ARB bar and winch, the Kaymar rear bar with twin spares and the extra fuel tank (105l). The airbags were found to be cracking at the top where the strut passes through a bush so I replaced those as well ($2500).
I have since had the rotary coupling replaced in the steering column ($700) due to an SRS airbag light, broke an inner front CV ($700 for both shafts and both CVs installed) and now have a problem with my remote keys not working.

My engine and turbo were replaced at 190000 by the previous owner as a water manifold failed and dumped the coolant and he cooked the motor.

Transmission shifts nicely and diffs are quiet. The car has a full Landrover service history and the transmission was flushed at 140000. I'm thinking of replacing the radiator soon just for piece of mind with the tanks and transmission cooler.

It will be interesting to see what else happens in the near future but I'm hopeful that there is not too much else to go wrong.

[unseenone]

154497kms V8 4.4L

the usual bushings, arb, etc.
upgraded to EBC rotors and brakes at 20k when oem were shot. (good stuff)
Rebuilt differentials at 144k due to noise in both. Rear was rusty
3rd Battery recently installed
Drivers side windshield plastic blew off in a windstorm (replaced)
Drivers side front wheel bearing (shot) (replaced)
Front Ball Joints Replaced
Plastic thermostat inlet cracked (replaced)

Center light repaired by dealer, now out again, left it broken

Replaced transfer box diff fluids, engine with royal purple. Getting ready to flush the transmission and possibly upgrade to the metal pan if I can find it. Just ordered in replacement belts, tension wheels. Ordered spare brake light switch and height sensors.

Generally, you have to fall in love with a rover to keep one around. When they're working they're awesome vehicles. Mine drives just as good as when it was new, it even still has the back seat rattle.

very occasional short distance towing such as boat launching, etc. Off road use moderate, and all driving done with care and a light foot.

[Mike_S]

2 work colleagues have 2006 TDV6 RRS's owned from pretty much new, with 200 & 230k respectively on them now. Other than service items & consumables they're both original. The 230k car recently had an injector go down and a set of balljoints, but other than that they've been fine.

Using them to do high miles seems to be a good thing to do, they're seemingly more unreliable if used for low miles.

My 4.4 V8 now has 99,700km on and is about to have all 4 lower suspension wishbones replaced, I've just ordered them. Here come the bills....

[ozscott]

This is all good info for prospective buyers fellas. It would be more usefull again though I think if you edited to include use - ie extent of off road and if towing, regularity and weight. Cheers

[trobbo]

good news stories need to come forward too if you dont want to see this type of thread devalue your car by prospective purchasers beliving all high mileage cars cost a bomb to maintain.

[Disco4SE]

good news stories need to come forward too if you dont want to see this type of thread devalue your car by prospective purchasers beliving all high mileage cars cost a bomb to maintain.
With you here trobbo. Alot depends on how they are driven and most of all how they are looked after. You tend to hear the bad stories quicker than the good ones..
From a happy Disco owner :)

[Geedublya]

My D3 has been toured extensively on outback roads (judging by the amount of red dirt in it). The previous owner had it serviced by a LR dealer at the specified intervals but I don't believe it was cared for over and above that. It was treated as a means of transport that did a job and that was all.

It is a very good vehicle that has some serious touring gear added to it and I got it cheaply. I factored in spending a fair amount to get it set up as a reliable vehicle and understand these things can be expensive to maintain. The niggling issues that have occurred such as SRS warning lights and remote locking I can work through. I just hope they aren't too frequent.

[Mully]

Won't repeat current situation with my 2005 D3 as it is in another thread but will comment that in the rough stuff, this vehicle is INSANE! Incredible in fact and only let down IMO by shoe options.

Mine has been airborne and inclined every which way and has impressed all concerned every time. A seriously impressive set of wheels... but the bills have started to come along after 120 thou or so but if you are happy to do the spanner time (and capable), they are worth the loving I am sure. Just starting her up makes you go all gooey.... err, sorry about that.

Cheers.

[101RRS]

The niggling issues that have occurred such as SRS warning lights .........

Did you find the cause for this?? My light has come on a few times on start (not when running) but after a couple of restarts it has disappeared. So more likely to be an electrical gremlin rather than an actual fault.

Garry

[bigmac]

225,00 clocked over yesterday 06tdv6 no major problems since it has been out of waranty only normal sevices and brakes.
Did have a water problem in the air flow meter a few months back in all the rain, that was my fault had the head of the snorkel around the wrong way in realy heavy rain
and it sucked water into the filter.

Bigmac

[101RRS]

225,00 clocked over yesterday 06tdv6 no major problems since it has been out of waranty only normal sevices and brakes.


How many sets of pads per brake rotor have you been getting. Replace rotors every pad change or much better?

Garry

[Mike_S]

3 sets of pads to 1 set of discs (rotors). I only changed the rear discs because I was doing the lot anyway, could've left them for the 4th set of pads.

Stick to genuine pads though, I managed 35,000 miles out of them (albeit that's predominantly road use). The Mintex I put in with the new discs are wearing much much quicker and creating a huge amount of dust that's ruined the front wheels. I saved myself £20 on the set and it really wasn't worth it.

[Disco4SE]

Had my front pads replaced at 48,000 because my dealer told me they would make it to the next service.
Had the rears replaced yesterday at 55,000. Not too bad I thought.
BTW: Had the wiper blades replaced yesterday as well. Not bad either.
Cheers, Craig

[Geedublya]

Just be careful with dealers recommending pad changes.

My VW dealer recommended I change my rear pads three services ago (15000km service interval) so I bought new pads and removed the wheel only to find they had 8mm left. They have recommended a pad change every service since and I still have plenty of pad left.

[Disco4SE]

Just be careful with dealers recommending pad changes.

My VW dealer recommended I change my rear pads three services ago (15000km service interval) so I bought new pads and removed the wheel only to find they had 8mm left. They have recommended a pad change every service since and I still have plenty of pad left.
My fronts were replaced because they wouldn't make the next service (as previously mentioned), but the rears were replaced because of the warning light on the dash.
Cheers, Craig

[unseenone]

3 sets of pads to 1 set of discs (rotors). I only changed the rear discs because I was doing the lot anyway, could've left them for the 4th set of pads.

Stick to genuine pads though, I managed 35,000 miles out of them (albeit that's predominantly road use). The Mintex I put in with the new discs are wearing much much quicker and creating a huge amount of dust that's ruined the front wheels. I saved myself £20 on the set and it really wasn't worth it.

I don't want to sidetrack the discussion but, when I put on EBC, I did not do it to save money. In fact they were significantly more pricey. I was annoyed that I needed (discs) rotors on the front at 20k (miles). Now at 96k(miles) the EBC all the way around are still good. The green stuff does chew up a bit faster than I would like, the trade off. They are a LOW dust pad, and clean. At each pad fitting (3rd set of pads now) I can also have the disk turned, which you cannot do with OEM. There are some other lifetime discs out there as well, but generally they paid for themselves and then some. I do suggest a light turn/crosshatch at each pad fitting to ensure a good bedding, and smooth braking. Interestingly my front and read pads generally get down to 3ml within 5k of each other, so I do all 4 at once. Keep in mind, with off roading, etc. most of the LR traction control trickery relies on arduous use of the brakes, computer controlled in order to deliver it's superior magic.

When I shopped the EBC I considered the fact they make brakes, for trains, planes, etc. and are not just another volume supplier.

As we all are well aware, sometimes in the manufacture process, some corners are cut, some by design to keep the parts makers in business, such as only selling whole units, say a 500.00 generator, instead of a 75.00 repair kit, etc. This is generally an ongoing theme in the industry, i'm not picking on LR.

Once again, I didn't mean to sidetrack things here, as I think generally Busman was trying to collect general data, rather than a bunch of discussion. If so, i'm happy to retract this and move it to the appropriate thread.

All that said, like the rest, love my rover, and willing to deal with general maintenance and upkeep. It is expected for arduous use vehicles.

[101RRS]

Thanks for the brakes comments. At 48,000km the mechanic said the brakes were getting down and that the rotors would need doing. I do not machine my rotors as each machine just takes meat from them - as long as there is no warping and the min thickness is achieved they stay on.

I intend to run the pads until the light comes on and then do an inspection of the rotors and change the pads. Any issue with this or is it really to late when the light comes on??

Garry

[unseenone]

When you get down to 3ml it won't be long and sensors will start going, so may as well avoid that. The thing is, if you wait until the light goes off, then you also need to buy a new sensor.

In the end, I guess it's a choice, and the sensor serves the purpose to remind you, if nobody has noticed they are getting worn out. I knew I was down to 3ml, ordered the brakes, popped a front sensor before they arrived, then the rears were down immediately, popped another sensor. So I needlessly had to buy two sensors, because I had failed to act quickly enough.

[Geedublya]

Did you find the cause for this?? My light has come on a few times on start (not when running) but after a couple of restarts it has disappeared. So more likely to be an electrical gremlin rather than an actual fault.

Garry
Problem was the rotary switch (also known as clockspring) in the steering column.

[NavyDiver]

Front controler arms replaced, auto trans to be flushed soon and timing belt relaced at 170k? Everything else was putting toys on my 2005 D3 SE. Loving it:D