Scan Gauge II - With X Gauge

[101RRS]

I have a Scan Gauge to put on my RRS so that have access to more Trip Computer functions than the standard system has.

So - who has one on their D3/RRS and where have you installed it? Where is the OBDII port in the car - I cannot find it.

I am a bit baffled by the X gauge function. Can someone explain in simple (for a simpleton) terms what it is and what can be displayed via it.

Also I appreciate it has limited code reading ability but what codes will they read on a TDV6 2.7?

Thanks

Garry

[ADMIRAL]

Hi Garry,

I can't help with your other questions, but your OBD port on the D4 is on the lh side of the steering column, facing down, about where your left knee sits.

[101RRS]

Thanks - mine is playing hide and seek as I cannot find it - maybe I need to pull some trim panels off.

Cheers

Garry

[101RRS]

OK - found it at the bottom of the trim pointing down just above the accelerator pedal.

[eddomak]

Hi Garry,

I can't help with your other questions, but your OBD port on the D4 is on the lh side of the steering column, facing down, about where your left knee sits.

On the D4 3.0 it is near the accelerator pedal, facing down.

I use a bluetooth OBDII adapter that talks to my Android phone running the Torque App.

[bbyer]

I have a Scan Gauge to put on my RRS so that have access to more Trip Computer functions than the standard system has. So - who has one on their D3/RRS and where have you installed it? Where is the OBDII port in the car - I cannot find it. I am a bit baffled by the X gauge function. Can someone explain in simple (for a simpleton) terms what it is and what can be displayed via it. Also I appreciate it has limited code reading ability but what codes will they read on a TDV6 2.7?
Thanks Garry Per the link below, there is a jpg that shows where I put the readout on my LR3. I have only cleared one fault and that was what I call the MIL light, the engine check light that for some reason went on just after an oil change. To my surprise, the ScanGauge II turned off the light and it has not come on since.

As to the X-Gauge functions, I have never bothered to figure them out as my primary reason for getting the ScanGauge was to get digital read outs of volts and water temperature, that sort of thing.

If it reads any LR codes at all, it will not be many as most of the Land Rover codes are secret stuff known only to the guys who have Faultmates - seriously, about the only codes it will read are emission system related so that does not help much with our kind of problems.

Also to my surprise, the ScanGauge worked right when I plugged it in - takes a minute or so for it to sort things out however. Also you can change the colour of the LCD background to match with the Land Rover green it you wish. I have had mine for at least a year now and it still seems OK.

DISCO3.CO.UK Photo Gallery - ScanGauge II on LR3 (http://www.disco3.co.uk/gallery/thumbnails.php?album=3611)

[unseenone]

Now, this is an interesting find. Can you also clear faults with this?

[mowog]

I use a Garmin EcoRoute HD. It displays OBDII data as gauges on my Garmin GPS.

https://buy.garmin.com/shop/shop.do?pID=38354

[bbyer]

Now, this is an interesting find. Can you also clear faults with this? Off hand I would say that you can only read and clear the simple emission faults with the ScanGauge II. In my case, it was turning the MIL light off.

This is consistent with all the cheap code readers, (say less than five hundred dollars), and with regards to the Land Rover, about the only thing that works well is the thousand dollar FaultMate MSV-2 Extreme. https://blackbox-solutions.com/shop/ This is because the Faultmate not only finds and clear faults like suspension, audio, brakes, engine, tranny, differentials and all the other system, , but then you can load in newer, (and hopefully improved), Land Rover updates that may solve an original LR fault.

It is hard to be even a shade tree mechanic on an LR3 without the Faultmate. You will for certain not have the ten thousand dollar dealer T4, and now even changing the rear disc brakes is a challenge without a way to set the electronic parking brake in service mode. Yes, there is a manual technique but I can pretty much forecast Land Rover "solving" that as well.

[101RRS]

I use a Garmin EcoRoute HD. It displays OBDII data as gauges on my Garmin GPS.

https://buy.garmin.com/shop/shop.do?pID=38354

Thanks but I do not have a Garmin and I already had the Scangauge.

[101RRS]

Put the Scan gauge in this afternoon - a nice piece of kit to help monitor various functions within the engine etc. Got the gauge side sussed but the trip and X gauge functions will take a bit more learning.

Managed to 400l/100km (yes 400) on heavy acceleration up hill but at 90kph on the freeway was down to 2.5l/100km.

On cruise control - the throttle seems to always be open even on overspeed but when driving normally you see 0l/100km when the foot is off the throttle.

The amber colour setting even matches the dash lighting. While appreciate it only has limited code reading capability it did say I have no codes in my system.

On the gauge selection I am going to use litre/hour fuel burn, instantaneous fuel consumption and turbo boost. Not sure about the other position as I am not interested in duplicating gauges and information already displayed on the dash.

Garry

[bbyer]

On the gauge selection I am going to use litre/hour fuel burn, instantaneous fuel consumption and turbo boost. Not sure about the other position as I am not interested in duplicating gauges and information already displayed on the dash.GarryI display Voltage and Water Temperature in degrees F, as well as the litres / hour; no turbo, so LOD, a readout of how hard the engine is working, or sometime the Vacuum - kind of similar.

I like having the water temperature read out as I find that most often, thermostats do not fail instantaneously, but over time they start to act up. By watching the water temperature in F as that is a "finer" readout, that if the numbers start to fluctuate, probably the thermostat needs replacing. The factory temp gauge will rarely move until the problem becomes severe, this way you tend to have a warning of trouble to come.

[101RRS]

Fitted the scangauge and just did 900km on one fill so fuel burn has only just been calibrated.

Some interesting things though.

On cruise control the engine throttle still stays open a bit (1 litre/100km) even though the car is going faster than the speed set - explains my overruns where the car does not slow down in some circumstances. Without cruise control and throttle closed fuel does go to 0l/100km.

Water temp is around 95-97 degrees which I find surprising as most of my other vehicles are around 85 degrees.

Over the 905km out of the tank the car trip showed 7.7l/100km, the scan gauge showed 6.7l/100 and actual calculated was 8.8l/100km. Hopefully the scan gauge will be more accurate after doing a calibrated fuel fill. As mentioned in other threads I am surprised the car trip computer is so inaccurate.

Air intake temp was always just a little higher that outside ambient temp which implies the intercooler must do a pretty good job.

The two power figures - HP/% indicate that only about 30% power is needed to push the 2.5t along at 110km.

Boost is displayed but there is no chance of getting overboost so of limited value - I would prefer to have a EGT display but that is not available - whether the car ECU does not monitor it or it is that the scan gauge cannot display it I do not know.

I find the scan gauge well worth having but is a bit of a pain changing between the menus - particularly where I have it mounted behind the steering wheel. Once I understand the X gauge function I should be able to display the actual information I want in windows rather than having to scroll between different functions with my arm through the steering wheel.

Works well.

Garry

[bbyer]

Water temp is around 95-97 degrees which I find surprising as most of my other vehicles are around 85 degrees. Garry Water temperature has to me always been an interesting number; well that and voltage. The water temperature reading is of course where the sensor is, and voltage, the same, wherever the pickup point is and that is why I always found the numbers interesting - more an indication of what is going on rather than a statement.

On older vehicles, it was easy to know where the water temperature was taken - at the round brass threaded thing with the single wire coming off it, and for electrical, it seemed to be somewhere just behind the volt meter.

Now days however, or at least with the ScanGauge, the water temperature readings are generally wherever the engine computer takes them; the voltage, well that is a good question, but I think for the 3, it is the output voltage at the alternator, probably some pickup point inside the internal regulator as the voltage fluctuates a fair bit, at least on my ScanGauge from about 12.4 to 14.9, sitting mostly around 13.9 volts.

Water temperature on my petrol V8 sits about 93C on a 20C day.

[Geedublya]

95-97 seems high. Mine (2.7 D) shows 90-93 my V8 D2 showed 93-95. I have temp, speed, instant l/100 and trip l/100 displayed on mine.
The fuel economy took about 4 refills before it was calibrated right. I haven't bothered with the X-gauge as I get all the info I want.
Calibrating is annoying the first couple of times especially when you fill with 150 plus litres and the gauge is out by 40l or more.
My fuel economy isn't anywhere near yours. 10-11l/100 on Hwy 14-15l/100 in peak hour Sydney traffic.

[101RRS]

I have done the first calibrated fill but things are still out - as mentioned might take 3 or 4 fills to get set right. Distance remaining in the tank is at least 100km out compared to the car trip meter. AVG fuel consumption is still less that the car system which is already 10% low.

[RoverLander]

On the D4 3.0 it is near the accelerator pedal, facing down.

I use a bluetooth OBDII adapter that talks to my Android phone running the Torque App.

Hi eddomak,

Today I found the torque app on the android app market. Looks promising. Can you please tell me a little more about your setup. What Bluetooth OBDII adapter do you use? Where did you purchase and how much? Do you get good info using this method? Can you reset codes etc?

Would you recommend it?

Thanks,
Peter

[gghaggis]

I'd recommend the Torque (Android) app - I have the PLX Kiwi bluetooth adaptor (bought off their on-line site), and it works well.

Cheers,

Gordon

[RoverLander]

I'd recommend the Torque (Android) app - I have the PLX Kiwi bluetooth adaptor (bought off their on-line site), and it works well.

Cheers,

Gordon

Thanks Gordon. How have you used it? Is it for information only or can you actually do something with it?

[gghaggis]

It's essentially info only - I use it for distance/speed/acceleration and temp readouts. It does however, claim to be able to read engine ECU faults.

Gauges look quite good on an HD phone display.

Cheers,

Gordon

[bbyer]

It's essentially info only - I use it for distance/speed/acceleration and temp readouts. It does however, claim to be able to read engine ECU faults. Gauges look quite good on an HD phone display. Cheers, Gordon I looked at the Torque web site per the link below and I must agree that the various Torque display options sure look a lot better than the ScanGauge numbers that display from the box sitting on top of my steering column.

All is see is four different sets of numbers; in my case, what I have chosen to display is water temperature in degrees C, LOD which is sort of a measure of how hard the engine is working, voltage, off the alternator, (I think), and for the moment, instantaneous fuel usage in L/100 km.

All display on a plain green background - boring, but informative and always there regardless.

My BlackBerry, rather than showing a selection of colourful gauges, runs a boring analogue clock between phone calls, when it then flips to showing me who is calling, and the ScanGauge just continues to display the numbers.

As I have said before, about the only code or light I have actually cleared is the Engine Check Light, the MIL indicator, and that was only once as it has fortunately only come on once, and that was for no apparent reason.

What does intrigue me however, is that he is working on some sort of heads up display so the readouts will show on the windscreen - at night at least. That application could be interesting, and it would not be boring.

Ian Hawkins (http://ian-hawkins.com/)

[101RRS]

After about 6 fills I am finding the the scangauage fuel usage/distance to go etc is all over the place - it rarely is able to even come close in fuel burn so other functions are out. At least with the car system - add 10% to average fuel usage and deduct 10% from range to empty. The car systems might be 10% wrong but they are consistently 10% wrong ( is there any way to adjust the car system??). Other functions of the scangauge are great though.

On thing - I cannot see in the instructions on how to tell the Scangauge that you have done a partial fill rather than a full fill?? If you do a partial fill everything seems to fall apart??

Thanks

Garry

[bbyer]

I would say that for the most part, I fill up at just less than half tank. This is a combination of attempting to provide lots of fuel to act as a heat sink re cooling the internal electric fuel pump and a concern for taking on a full tank of "bad" fuel.

Maybe I do not know what I am doing either, but when I fuel up, I note the volume, (litres in my case), and then:

Push the single button towards the bottom right with the red coloured ring around it.

Push the button opposite where it says MORE

Push the button opposite where it says FILLUP

Then the display in my case shows LITRES, a quantity number, and a couple of arrows < and >. If the quantity number is smaller than the amount I recorded earlier, I push the > button sufficient times to get the displayed number to be the same as the recorded number of litres.

I also note the % number below the quantity number changes. Then I push the save buttons and exit out.

I do that for a couple of fills and if my driving has remained the same - that is stop and go city, or all highway, then for the next fills the fuel quantity will come in within a few tenths of a litre and % change within 1%.

If however the next trip is highway and then city and so on, well the quantity numbers will always be at least 5% and maybe 10% wrong.

For the most part, I use the ScanGauge II for the voltage and water temperature readouts - fuel usage varies too much with where I am driving. In other words, I hope LR does not get rid of the fuel gauge needle as they did the engine oil dip stick on the 4.

[Geedublya]

Mine took about 8 fills but now is reading spot on. Last time I filled it was to the liter.

[bbyer]

Also in the ScanGauge setup, you have to input the fuel tank size, (86 litres for my LR3), the fuel type, (gasoline), and the engine displacement, (4.4 Litres for my petrol V8).

I note that for diesel fuel, there are two different diesel setting options, Diesel A and B, (the instruction book explains the differences but it is not the fuel but is how it gets computed).

You can download the manual from this site.

User Manuals : Linear Logic - Home of the ScanGauge (http://www.scangauge.com/support/user-manuals/)

[101RRS]

So I take it that there is no way of telling Scangauge that you have not done a full fill but a partial fill - there doesn't seem to be anything in the instructions.

Is annoying as I am tempted to just put $20 in at a go and not filling it.

Garry

[Geedublya]

It shouldn't matter once calibrated whether you have done a full or partial fill as scanguage is tracking your usage. Mine has no problem with partial fills. Make sure you are entering the data correctly. The instruction are quite comprehensive for the fuel setup.

[Graeme]

On cruise control the engine throttle still stays open a bit (1 litre/100km) even though the car is going faster than the speed set - explains my overruns where the car does not slow down in some circumstances. Without cruise control and throttle closed fuel does go to 0l/100km.
The 3.0 D4s had the same programming until a s/w update, with mine done in April. It makes quite a difference to the extent of overrun, perhaps more so with the 3.0. Perhaps people only started pointing fingers at the programming once they could see consumption figures, causing LR to change their thinking. I wonder if LR have updated the s/w for earlier vehicles too.

[bbyer]

So I take it that there is no way of telling ScanGauge that you have not done a full fill but a partial fill - there doesn't seem to be anything in the instructions. Is annoying as I am tempted to just put $20 in at a go and not filling it. Garry

My experience is that you are correct - the ScanGauge inputs do not directly allow for just putting is a few litres of fuel, or it it does, I do not know how.

What I do is just write down the number of litres for each partial fill and then when I do a full tank fill, whatever that quantity is, I add the previous part quantities and the sum should be close to the number that displays when you call up the display for a FILLUP. This also works if you forget to input and reset when you do a full fill up.

The ScanGauge is just a theoretical fuel consumption totalizer between resets. I suppose if you never accessed the FILLUP display, it would go up to 999 or something high like that.

[clubagreenie]

I asked them about partial fills and according to the distributor it won't allow it. Fillup is just that, fill from a known level to full, you've travelled a known distance to use the fuel volume that you are replacing.

I've found the scangauge to be very helpful with both engine faults and diagnostics. The LOD/IGM and other functions helped point towards a randomly occurring MAF fault.

[101RRS]

It shouldn't matter once calibrated whether you have done a full or partial fill as scanguage is tracking your usage. Mine has no problem with partial fills. Make sure you are entering the data correctly. The instruction are quite comprehensive for the fuel setup.


Your experiences seem to be different from others. I do not believe Scanguage actually takes input from actual fuel level (from the tank sender) like the car system does but takes a known volume of fuel and calculates theoretical fuel remaining based on fuel burn.

Hence the requirement to do the fillup procedure on each fill - the tank must go to fill for it to work. If the tank needs 60l to fill and you only put in 30litres Scangauge thinks you only needed 30l to fill and therefore you have been getting far better fuel fuel consumption than you are getting.

When programming the Scangauge it would not have been hard to program in a partial fill system when it was first being designed.

Thanks to everyone for your comments. I haven't really looked at the X guage side of things yet but I want to in the future so I can have a mix of gauge functions and trip functions displayed in the window at the same time.

Cheers

Garry

[Geedublya]

Oops Gary I made a mistake when you said partial fills I thought you meant not filling from an empty tank. In my case I always fill my tanks completely whenever I refill and of course the scanguage will not work accurately if you don't fill all the way.