The old Warped Exhaust Manifold TD5

[Defender Mike]

Finaly got around to replacing my warped manifold and blown gasket yesterday. All the info to do it is on the rave CD except a warning to remove the turbo waste gate valve actuator solenoid before you unbolt the aircon compressor. There is a bayonete hose connector sticking up that can easily broken off as I did.

I had two studs that snapped off and were easily removed using left hand drill and easy out. I replaced all the studs and used an exchange manifold that had been planed and resurfaced.

I am an amateur mechanic and it took me 3 hours to dissasemble (including snapped studs) while reading instructions an hour to clean up parts and paint manifold etc and 2hrs to reassemble. I am very happy with the result have quite a sense of satisfaction from doing it myself.

I found the radiator over flow tube had gone brittle and snapped when putting it all back together and repaced this as well.

It is not a difficult job and if you get all the parts in advance should be able to do it in a day easy. :)

If yours hasnt gone yet be assured that it will between 100 and 200 k interesting to note the engine brass plaque states it was built in May 2001 ten years to the month.

Mike

[d@rk51d3]

Good job.
Better than paying someone to rip your wallet clean.

Now you can cut the webbing from the old manifold, and watch it magically straighten out again, and keep it for a spare.

[bronson]

Hi
When mine went i replaced them with high tensile studs and just machined the manifold!
Never given me a drama since, with an ECU UPGRADE

[Defender Mike]

Hi
When mine went i replaced them with high tensile studs and just machined the manifold!
Never given me a drama since, with an ECU UPGRADE

I thought of using high tensile or oversize (drill out & retap) . Two different workshops that have tried this both said that it will strip the thread and next time will need a helicoil:(. So I stuck with the standard studs. I am sure my ecu upgrade and the increased exhaust temp was partialy responsible for the warp but the increase in power is worth it.:)

My exchange manifold was machined and the webbing was drilled with a 12 mm bit. Aparently this helps reduce the warping.

Mike

[d@rk51d3]

Yep, if you don't mod the manifold, you'll just bust your new studs as well, even upsized studs won't hold.

Drill, cut or grind the webbing, slightly open all the stud holes on the manifold EXCEPT the centre two (these need to be left standard to locate the manifold properly). This allows for expansion, without putting sideways pressure on the studs and breaking them off.

[bronson]

I must be lucky

[Basil135]

Ok, so I have the dreaded whistle as well.

I have managed to get the gaskets & nuts, but cant get hold of the studs until next week.

Now, I am going to have a good look tomorrow, but what I am wondering is, if I can remove the manifold, & replace the gasket, after doing the trick with the webbing, and the studs are all ok, do I actually NEED to replace the studs?

I have also read a few different thoughts on whether to use oversized studs or just replace with the same size. IF I need to replace the studs, I have decided that I will use the original sizing, as should the need arise again to do the gasket, I will have the option at that point of going up a size.

So, do I need new studs if the old ones are still there & ok?

[d@rk51d3]

For the few dollars it will cost, removing any potentially weakened studs will be well worth it.

As for oversized studs. I've even seen them break. Not worth the hassle and cost in my opinion.

[Basil135]

Yea, that is what I was thinking.

Only catch is that it will have to be next weekend now before I get a chance to do it, after I get the new studs on Monday.:mad:

[Defender Mike]

Yea, that is what I was thinking.

Only catch is that it will have to be next weekend now before I get a chance to do it, after I get the new studs on Monday.:mad:

8 out of 10 studs i replaced looked ok but i changed them anyway at $1.35 each its not worth it. Triumph rover spares in lonsdale have them. Any nut & bolt shop should have them as well.:)
Mike

[mturri]

Although partially iterating here's my recommendations after having done several manifolds

-If warped first cut webbing then enlarge stud holes (except those for centre cylinder), and only then reface (if needed that is)
-Replace all studs
-Use Class 8.8 or stronger studs (alloy steel, quenched and tempered)
-Smear with copper based anti-seize compound
-If using longer studs DO NOT screw all the way in (see how they come installed from factory)

Modified exhaust manifold after a high temperature paint treat:

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2012/02/251.jpg

[Basil135]

Ok. Pop quizz hot shots......

Can someone please explain to me in, "I am about to throw the spanner to the other side of the yard lingo", how one might go about releasing the tension on the belt that runs thru the air con compressor, and then removing said compressor? :eek:

Many thanks.

[Basil135]

Ok. Pop quizz hot shots......

Can someone please explain to me in, "I am about to throw the spanner to the other side of the yard lingo", how one might go about releasing the tension on the belt that runs thru the air con compressor, and then removing said compressor? :eek:

Many thanks.

Cancel that request. It is amazing what you discover once you remember that you have Rave...:angel:

[mturri]

What RAVE doesn't tell is that you don't really need to get the viscous fan out first. With a 15mm wrench (better off a half moon one) and a bit of patience turn the belt tensioner (next to alternator) counterclockwise with your left hand and pull the belt off with your right one. Sounds easy, it is not. You may find yourself walking across the yard to pick up the wrench --a number of times-- though still less of a pain than having to remove the viscous 'fun'.

[LOVEMYRANGIE]

Mike, if you want to offload the old manifold let me know. I have a pending R&D project it.

Andrew


Using Capitals, the difference between helping your Uncle Jack off a horse or helping your uncle jack off a horse...

[Defender Mike]

Mike, if you want to offload the old manifold let me know. I have a pending R&D project it.

Andrew


Using Capitals, the difference between helping your Uncle Jack off a horse or helping your uncle jack off a horse...

Sorry andrew I had to hand it over as an exchange unit . The one I got back looked like it came off a boat. Very rusty and pitted I spent a lot of time cleaning it up and painting with heat proof paint.

[Defender Mike]

Ok. Pop quizz hot shots......

Can someone please explain to me in, "I am about to throw the spanner to the other side of the yard lingo", how one might go about releasing the tension on the belt that runs thru the air con compressor, and then removing said compressor? :eek:

Many thanks.

Careful you dont break your waste gate solenoid beside the Aircon compressor. Like I did:o

[Disco W.A]

Sorry andrew I had to hand it over as an exchange unit . The one I got back looked like it came off a boat. Very rusty and pitted I spent a lot of time cleaning it up and painting with heat proof paint.

Mike,
who did you get it off?

Roger

[Defender Mike]

Mike,
who did you get it off?

Roger

Kevin,

At rover tech jordan. It was the only one he had left. My original will probably be on the shelf now.

[Franz]

Anyone know where in Melbourne I can get my manifold machined?

TIA,

Franz

[stallie]

For a TD5 with 180k not chipped (that I know of) gets driven sedately should I worry about this? There's nothing to suggest it happening at the moment.

I'm heading off on a Melbourne to Broome trip in June /July with a large camper trailer, SWMBO and the three kids. No heavy sand, just up the Oodnadatta track and maybe back via the Tanami. Is restudding sensible preventative maintenance?

I have madman EGT fitted. What's a good temp to try and stay below to possibly avoid the warping? I'm also conscious of letting it cool down for 10-30 seconds when parking depending on the driving.

[Franz]

Apparently the warped exhaust manifold is a common affliction not just restricted to Land Rovers.

I would remove the turbo heat shield (3 bolts) and look around the manifold for soot marks and to see if all the nuts are still on and tight.

If you don't have a whistling or chirping noise coming from under the bonnet it's likely that you have not reached this milestone yet.

Mine started to make a noise around 120K and it's been getting progressively noisier since and I've now removed the manifold and will have it machined. Biggest issue is getting the 2 broken studs out! There may also be more broken studs as I want to replace all of them.

Cheers,

Franz

[stallie]

I've loosened the exhaust before and had the shield off for other issues with no soot noted at all. I might leave it then. Cheers