Does anyone have any info on this vehicle, please?

[drifter]

Hi

Another Series 2a will soon be joining me here. I looked it over today and have bought it.

Calvin tells me the following:

http://kiwi-in-oz.com/pictures/photos/400/Calvin.jpg (http://kiwi-in-oz.com/pictures/photos/800/Calvin.jpg)

and the compliance plate tells a similar story:

http://kiwi-in-oz.com/pictures/photos/800/1D322378.jpg (http://kiwi-in-oz.com/pictures/photos/2400/1D322378.jpg)

Is it possible to find any other data on it? I was told it went to Woomera and then to Richmond but I'm not sure - I have no evidence of it's early life in Australia.

As per the Calvin pic, it was originally a 6 cylinder vehicle. It is currently an 8 cylinder vehicle, having a 253 V8 shoehorned in under the bonnet.

Many thanks in advance.

[101RRS]

You silly boy :D.

Have you given up on the current restoration and going to start a new one before the old one is done?

So - where are the pics, what condition is it in, where did you get it, will it get you to Cape York?

The plate in your pic is the ADR compliance plate - the Land Rover nomenclature plates should be in the usual spot in the firewall inside the cabin.

[drifter]

You silly boy :D. You got that right!

Have you given up on the current restoration and going to start a new one before the old one is done? Nope - this is probably the next one.

So - where are the pics, what condition is it in, where did you get it, will it get you to Cape York? Cape York is off my radar now - other probs have caused it to be a non-starter.

The plate in your pic is the ADR compliance plate - the Land Rover nomenclature plates should be in the usual spot in the firewall inside the cabin. See pics in link below

Click >>this (http://www.kiwi-in-oz.com/pictures/list.php?exhibition=29&u=&ee_lang=eng)<< for some pics.

Condition is pretty good. I looked for rust and didn't see anything in the usual places. Got it in Canberra - over in Holt. Current owner is moving to QLD and was selling it through a friend of his.

No engineering cert for engine. Will be checking to see if there is one for the seats (they appear to be Holden seats).

[Lotz-A-Landies]

Finally someone has posted up a pic of an SIIa with a compliance plate! :MileStone: :BigThumb:

Onto the vehicle itself.
35200938G engine number 34514489B Keys 634 and 679 (?FP) Tyres Olympic APL, Orig NSW Rego ENG-319 delivered to NSW Forestry Commission 19.5.72

Does that help?
Diana

BTW: Is it orange coloured?

[drifter]

Finally someone has posted up a pic of an SIIa with a compliance plate! :MileStone: :BigThumb:

Onto the vehicle itself.
35200938G engine number 34514489B Keys 634 and 679 (?FP) Tyres Olympic APL, Orig NSW Rego ENG-319 delivered to NSW Forestry Commission 19.5.72

Does that help?
Diana

BTW: Is it orange coloured?

It helps a huge amount. Thank you. The owner has told a story (created a fantasy) about its origins and I can tell you, Forestry wasn't a part of it.

Yes, it was orange - and was then painted black - and is now an orange/yellow colour (see the pics in the link I posted).

The passenger door has been partially sanded to reveal a round 'something'. It will require a gentle approach to find what was there unless, of course, they have sanded through it in their excitement.

Diana - thank you.

[101RRS]

No engineering cert for engine. Will be checking to see if there is one for the seats (they appear to be Holden seats).

It may have been converted when certificates were not needed. The number plate indicates they were first issued in the early 90s when rego checks were done each year. If the engine number on the rego label/rego cert is correct you should be OK. If you do not have them Dickson Motor Registry should be able to tell you if it is legit. I would say that the engine conversion is know to the registration authorities and given that just a roadworthy from the local garage should all that is necessary - at most you may need the roadworthy to be done at the Motor Registry.

However if the engine swap was done after annual rego checks were dropped (about 1998??) and authorities not advised of the change then you will need to get it engineered.

Garry

[Lotz-A-Landies]

That is my favourite model Land Rover - even the station wagon bit and especially the V8. (Just like one I had in 1978)

Very jealous! :BigCry:


It may have been converted when certificates were not needed. The number plate indicates they were first issued in the early 90s when rego checks were done each year. <snip> Not that it's relevant, in NSW engineering certificates were required by 1978, my first 253 conversion was a breeze, basically just an engine number change. Unfortunately when I transferred the engine from the hard top to the station wagon in 1978 it turned into a nightmare.

Diana

[clubagreenie]

I'm actually curious about the heater. When I restored my S2 I couldn't find a round heater so ended up with a wide flat panel the same but it was the only one I've ever come across until now.

[Lotz-A-Landies]

The wide heaters came in about the time of the change to the cable wiper system. 1967

The reason being that the round one burnt the right shin of a front seat passenger and wasn't very efficient for the drivers legs.

I think they stayed on longer in Aus because Smith's here already had the tooling for the round one and probably lots of old stock.

Diana

[drifter]

It may have been converted when certificates were not needed. The number plate indicates they were first issued in the early 90s when rego checks were done each year. If the engine number on the rego label/rego cert is correct you should be OK. If you do not have them Dickson Motor Registry should be able to tell you if it is legit. I would say that the engine conversion is know to the registration authorities and given that just a roadworthy from the local garage should all that is necessary - at most you may need the roadworthy to be done at the Motor Registry.

However if the engine swap was done after annual rego checks were dropped (about 1998??) and authorities not advised of the change then you will need to get it engineered.

Garry

Sadly, the engine swap was done while it was registered and they let the registration lapse - so it's gonna be an engineers certificate and pits and all...

The guy I bought it off is going to go to Dickson tomorrow to get a set of papers for me.


That is my favourite model Land Rover - even the station wagon bit and especially the V8. (Just like one I had in 1978)

Very jealous! :BigCry:

Not that it's relevant, in NSW engineering certificates were required by 1978, my first 253 conversion was a breeze, basically just a engine number change> Unfortunately when I transferred the engine from the hard top to the station wagon in 1978 it turned into a nightmare.

Diana

I had read your post about making your own conversion ring for this engine just this morning. It's in the 253 thread down below this thread ;)

I am still totally undecided - I imagine the fuel economy would be horrific with the V8 in it. I also suspect the Motor Registry in Dickson are going to have a ball at my expense no matter what I decide to do.

I guess that the one major reason the drive train is still hanging together is the salisbury diff at the back end...

I have always liked the station wagon - ever since I was given a Matchbox toy one (green with brown luggage on the roof) when I was a kid.

[drifter]

I'm actually curious about the heater. When I restored my S2 I couldn't find a round heater so ended up with a wide flat panel the same but it was the only one I've ever come across until now.

The one I am restoring didn't have a heater in it at all and the one I was wrecking (see signature) did so I swapped it over - along with the cable wipers and demisters:

http://kiwi-in-oz.com/pictures/photos/800/1D322325.jpg (http://kiwi-in-oz.com/pictures/photos/2400/1D322325.jpg)

Yeah, I know, wrong door tops :D

The door tops in this 'new' one are OK but the channels are shot.

[JDNSW]

I'm actually curious about the heater. When I restored my S2 I couldn't find a round heater so ended up with a wide flat panel the same but it was the only one I've ever come across until now.

Round heaters were widely used in cars other than Landrovers, but not the flat one. For example, Holdens did not get heaters from memory even as a factory option until the mid sixties - but there were a lot of aftermarket ones sold, and they were either the round Smiths ones or copies of them. Landrovers rarely got heaters fitted until Series 3, so the most common heater available for S1/2/2a was the one sold for fitting to Holdens.

The first two Landrovers I owned, S1 and S2, were ex-SMHEA and were fitted with (round) heaters. The next one I got, a 1961 S2a, did not have a heater, but I fitted one (round) after driving from the Simpson to Sydney in 1966 - through snow in the Blue Mountains!

John

[101RRS]

Not that it's relevant, in NSW engineering certificates were required by 1978, my first 253 conversion was a breeze, basically just an engine number change. Unfortunately when I transferred the engine from the hard top to the station wagon in 1978 it turned into a nightmare.

Diana

The vehicle is not in NSW - to have registration in the ACT at the times when it got its registration plates the ACT RTA would have had to know about - up until about 98 all rego inspections were done by the ACT RTA not garages.

If it was illegal it would have been jumped on immediately. However as said if the conversion was done after yearly rego inspections stopped the definitely a certificate will be needed.

Garry

[101RRS]

Sadly, the engine swap was done while it was registered and they let the registration lapse - so it's gonna be an engineers certificate and pits and all...



So I take it that Dickson was not advised of the engine change :(.

In that case a certificate will be needed - but if the V8 engine number is in their system then you may be right.

Garry

[drifter]

Well, I suspect the seats may need engineering approval, too. I note the compliance plate says it is a 10 seater (and the seats are in the back) but only 2 in the front makes it a 9 at best.

What were the front row of seats like? Anyone have any decent pics? Without the front end of a tub to stop them collapsing backwards, how did they fit?

[drifter]

So I take it that Dickson was not advised of the engine change :(.

In that case a certificate will be needed - but if the V8 engine number is in their system then you may be right.

Garry

One of the negotiating points on the price was because of the lack of certification for the current engine ;)

[drifter]

Another question.

What did the back seat passengers do to get in? Take a running jump? It has steps under the front doors and another one at the rear door (tailgate door).

Am I missing two or was it something you bought singly?

[clubagreenie]

Now you all come out, where were you 23 years ago (yes I was 14 when I started all this obsession). Is there a spacer under each mounting point for the heater, I seem to remember that the "legs" if bolted flat against the firewall would not allow the fan to rotate or draw air in.

[drifter]

On the one I moved across, the 'legs' provided the space between the heater and the firewall.

L shaped bits of metal where the long leg of the L was on the top and bottom of the heater and the short leg was against the firewall.

You can just see the bottom right leg in this pic:

http://kiwi-in-oz.com/pictures/photos/800/1D322327.jpg

[Lotz-A-Landies]

Actually, the only thing I ever broke was a RHS engine mount because it was made without a web down the side of the chassis and the long RHS had too much of a moment on heavy bumps.

I was actually running 4.3:1 Rover car diffs both front and rear with Leon Braxton's superaxles (similar to but earlier than MaxiDrive axles) I had to sacrifice the Salisbury rear from the SW to do it. The plan was to go to 3.9:1 Rover car axles when I got two but that never happened. It had soooo much power down low you just idled up obstacles off road so the high ratios didn't affect it as much as they did on the 186 and 202 conversions. These days you'd keep the salisbury and go to a high speed transfer case instead.

The suffix D SIIa box is stronger in 1st and 2nd than the strongest of the SIII boxes, but you have to put up with non synchromesh on 1st and 2nd. Yes I did run a Fairey overdrive and never broke it, but always kept oil up to it and always had a standard mainshaft gear and the rear bearing support plate stored in a biscuit tin in the tool box.

Fuel was cheap back then (29¢/l) and with 46 gal onboard who cares about consumption, although because the V8 wasn't working hard it wasn't that poorer than the OEM 2.6.

[drifter]

All the reading I have done tells me there is a 16 gallon tank at the back. Where do you fit the other 30 gallons?

[series2110]

Seems the bug has bitten quite badly over your way John !!

some years ago i put a 4.1 crossflow falcon and C4 auto in a S2a stationwagon on gas - with 3.5 diffs it went very well. buy did tend to run warm at times. was originally a 2.6 6 cyl

i wrote to ACT rego before i started and they replied that no special engineers report was required due to engine not being greater than 1.5 times original.

it was still an exercise with several visits to Dickson.

trust this helps

would it make it to Birdsville ?

Peter M

[series2110]

as for fuel i assume the tanks under the front seats with 15 gallons each would keep it on the road a few more kilometres

Peter M

[drifter]

Seems the bug has bitten quite badly over your way John !!

some years ago i put a 4.1 crossflow falcon and C4 auto in a S2a stationwagon on gas - with 3.5 diffs it went very well. buy did tend to run warm at times. was originally a 2.6 6 cyl

i wrote to ACT rego before i started and they replied that no special engineers report was required due to engine not being greater than 1.5 times original.

it was still an exercise with several visits to Dickson.

trust this helps

would it make it to Birdsville ?

Peter M

Hi Peter

I have had this one in my sights since last November - just waiting for the right price ;)

Nah - neither of my Series vehicles will be in the running for that, I'm afraid. They would probably do OK on the breakfast runs (if it wasn't a big trip) and the Show and Tell day though.

[drifter]

as for fuel i assume the tanks under the front seats with 15 gallons each would keep it on the road a few more kilometres

Peter M

They would be add-ons, right?

[drifter]

Seems the bug has bitten quite badly over your way John !!

some years ago i put a 4.1 crossflow falcon and C4 auto in a S2a stationwagon on gas - with 3.5 diffs it went very well. buy did tend to run warm at times. was originally a 2.6 6 cyl

i wrote to ACT rego before i started and they replied that no special engineers report was required due to engine not being greater than 1.5 times original.

it was still an exercise with several visits to Dickson.

trust this helps

would it make it to Birdsville ?

Peter M

Hang on

If the original was 2.6 then 1.5 times that lets you go to 3.9

You had a 4.1 and the 253 is 4.2

...

hmmm

[pop058]

as for fuel i assume the tanks under the front seats with 15 gallons each would keep it on the road a few more kilometres

Peter M


They would be add-ons, right?

A non station wagon tank is fitted under the drivers seat. A second one could be fitted under the passanger seat, but the problem would be the fillers. They are normally behind the front doors and you have back doors behind your front doors :D.

[drifter]

Thanks, yeah, I was aware of that from when I did the rebuild of the other one in my signature.

I can see why long range tanks became popular :D

[series2110]

2 things - yes i could have put in up to a 3.9 - or over that if i wanted the engineer hassles

fuel tanks - you could use tanks with the fillercaps on the tanks - which is what i have in my S2

normal filler with a 15 gallon tank on the RHS and 10 gallon and cap on tank under the left side - i had to remove a battery box that was fitted there - and on the RHS i need to relocate an outrigger to fit the larger tank

No regretts though

Peter M

[clubagreenie]

We used to stuff 18 gal in new tanks made for under seat, made from 16g plate (could jack on). Plus 14 gal behind the seats in the front section of each rear wheel arch. Fill the rears from the front fillers which were drilled and had a tube welded on to attach a hose to. Filling was fun, fill front, then rear, then pass hose through cabin, fill other side front and rear. 54gal all up, plus made a stainless "station wagon" tank for water.

[Lotz-A-Landies]

All the reading I have done tells me there is a 16 gallon tank at the back. Where do you fit the other 30 gallons?There was a time in the mid 1970's when members of the LROC Sydney would place orders for 15 gal underseat fill tanks for about $75 each (1 weeks salary for me at the time). When the purchasing officer had enough orders PMC would make them up for using using 16 gal SIII tanks. Fitting a mini fuel filler neck and taking a scallop out of the top rear end to fit in front of the rear passenger toe board.

This was O.K. until ADR changed and underseat tanks were no longer allowed and Leyland/PMC would no longer make them for us.

This was the time when the LROC had a great relationship with British Leyland, we had our monthly technical meetings at the Zetland plant and later moved to their offices up at Oxford Street Bondi Junction.

[Lotz-A-Landies]

Round heaters were widely used in cars other than Landrovers, but not the flat one. For example, Holdens did not get heaters from memory even as a factory option until the mid sixties - but there were a lot of aftermarket ones sold, and they were either the round Smiths ones or copies of them. Landrovers rarely got heaters fitted until Series 3, so the most common heater available for S1/2/2a was the one sold for fitting to Holdens.

The first two Landrovers I owned, S1 and S2, were ex-SMHEA and were fitted with (round) heaters. The next one I got, a 1961 S2a, did not have a heater, but I fitted one (round) after driving from the Simpson to Sydney in 1966 - through snow in the Blue Mountains!

JohnThere were at least two variants of the Smith's round heaters. The ones that were regularly fitted to the FE, FB Holdens and fitted up behind the glove box were deeper than the ones fitted to the Land Rover. I know because I bought one on Ebay and it was wrong.

I am pretty sure our 1963 EJ holden had a heater demister as an optional extra.

The original 80" Land Rover had the Clayton round heater as an optional accessory as can be seen by the fact that they are included in the workshop manual. It seems that in Australia, it was the Smith's brand that were used. Both Smith's and Clayton brand heaters fitted into the same 2 holes in the firewall.

[drifter]

I am advised that it will be delivered to my place on Sunday.

I was not going to tempt fate by asking 'what time?'

I have also been advised that there is a shed full of spares that will be available some time over the weekend. I am cleaning out the back of the Disco as we speak and casting a nervous eye around for a trailer...

Once I have taken what I want, the rest will be going to the dump (I am told) so I want to make sure his load will be a small one... :D

[Lostkiwi]

If you decide to pull the V8 out [they burn huge amounts of fuel and cost lots of money to keep going and break lots of gear!!:angel::whistling:]
Can i please have first Dibs on the adapter plate please;):angel:
I'm still on the look out for one if anybody has got one?

Thanks

[drifter]

If you decide to pull the V8 out [they burn huge amounts of fuel and cost lots of money to keep going and break lots of gear!!:angel::whistling:]
Can i please have first Dibs on the adapter plate please;):angel:
I'm still on the look out for one if anybody has got one?

Thanks

No worries - I did think of you and your quest when I first came across this vehicle.

I am still in two minds as to what to do with it. Keep the 253, replace it with a 202 or 186 or look for a LR 6 cylinder and go back to original.

If I do decide to remove the 253 then, sure, you have first dibs on the adapter.

[Lotz-A-Landies]

The 253 is not a big V8, barely bigger that the 1970's Falcon 6. In the Land Rover, the 253 copes with higher gearing and because it has a 525 cc power stroke every 1/4 revolution (while the 202 has 550 cc power stroke every 1/3 revolution) it puts its power through the transmission very smoothly. Even the 2 1/4 puts mote shock loads on the transmission because it pushes a 570 cc power stroke every 1/2 revolution.

The result is that the 253 can often idle up obstacles the 202 or 2 1/4 have trouble with. That was my experience.

Sure if you thrash the V8 you will start breaking things.

[101RRS]

Pull the holden engine out - put in a rover 3.9 attached to a R380 (or LT95) and stage 1 CVs in the front axle and you will have a nice driving machine.

Garry

[drifter]

I've got to get the bloody thing first!

Still no idea of when on Sunday to expect it...

[drifter]

<snip>

Sure if you thrash the V8 you will start breaking things.

Diana, I am a poor public servant - I cannot afford to thrash the thing.:(

[drifter]

Finally someone has posted up a pic of an SIIa with a compliance plate! :MileStone: :BigThumb:

Onto the vehicle itself.
35200938G engine number 34514489B Keys 634 and 679 (?FP) Tyres Olympic APL, Orig NSW Rego ENG-319 delivered to NSW Forestry Commission 19.5.72

Does that help?
Diana

BTW: Is it orange coloured?

Shakes head sadly....






They changed the key!





:D



It has an FP key in it with a similar number to that up there ^^^. It opens the drivers and rear door as well as activating the ignition.

[101RRS]

So where is it - you were supposed to get it today

[drifter]

In my driveway - just where it should be :)

They rang just before lunch to say they couldn't get the flatdeck - so I borrowed Toad's trailer and went and picked it up.

By the time I got home with it, Toad and Mrs Toad were there and gave it a good looking over.

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2011/05/472.jpg (http://kiwi-in-oz.com/pictures/photos/2400/1D322386.jpg)

http://kiwi-in-oz.com/pictures/photos/800/1D322387.jpg (http://kiwi-in-oz.com/pictures/photos/2400/1D322387.jpg)

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2011/05/473.jpg (http://kiwi-in-oz.com/pictures/photos/2400/1D322388.jpg)

[Lostkiwi]

Looks Good!![thumbsupbig]
Almost looks drivable;)

[101RRS]

Looks the goods - I would leave the Sunraysias.

[drifter]

Looks Good!![thumbsupbig]
Almost looks drivable;)

It is and it does - fairly well. Thanks.


Looks the goods - I would leave the Sunraysias.

Nah - you need two strong men and a mule to turn the steering wheel with those tyres on it.

It came with a set of standard rims so I'll paint them up and put some 750 x 16's or the modern day equivalent on it.

I think I already have a buyer for the Sunraysias.

[drifter]

Looks Good!![thumbsupbig]
Almost looks drivable;)

BTW, there is a Nissan (?) 5-speed box bolted on behind that engine so I don't think the adapter plate will be much use to you.

[Lostkiwi]

BTW, there is a Nissan (?) 5-speed box bolted on behind that engine so I don't think the adapter plate will be much use to you.


Bugger!!:( Thats a shame "oh well" one will turn up one day i hope;)

[drifter]

I have never given it any thought before but having now seen it....


Those domed bonnets fill with water when it rains!


I have a bird bath on my bonnet!

[101RRS]

Doh - drill a hole in it to let the water out.:o

[Lotz-A-Landies]

I<snip>Those domed bonnets fill with water when it rains!

I have a bird bath on my bonnet!The dished Deluxe bonnet were only fitted to vehicles with 7.50 16 wheels and tyres (mainly 109) to reduce the visual obstruction of the tyre sitting right in front of you. The after-market Sunraysia rims made the obstruction worse.

Interestingly the standard bonnet as fitted to most Australian built vehicles support the wheel at the same height as the dished ones. The good thing is that they let the water run off, so it only pools in the dish of the actual wheel.

Comparing the SW to the HT next to it, are the SW springs sagged or is it an effect of the smaller diameter Sunraysia's?

Diana

[drifter]

Doh - drill a hole in it to let the water out.:o

Bloody vehicle has enough holes in it already.


The dished Deluxe bonnet were only fitted to vehicles with 7.50 16 wheels and tyres (mainly 109) to reduce the visual obstruction of the tyre sitting right in front of you. The after-market Sunraysia rims made the obstruction worse.

Which is another good reason to go back to standard wheels. I could go to a standard bonnet, too (I have one here). There is a spare wheel mount on the back.


Interestingly the standard bonnet as fitted to most Australian built vehicles support the wheel at the same height as the dished ones. The good thing is that they let the water run off, so it only pools in the dish of the actual wheel.

Thanks


Comparing the SW to the HT next to it, are the SW springs sagged or is it an effect of the smaller diameter Sunraysia's?

Diana

I have been pondering that. Even allowing for the fact that the front of the HT is on axle stands... the HT seems higher at the back, too.

Yer gonna have me getting out the tape measure, aren't you?

[drifter]

Yer gonna have me getting out the tape measure, aren't you?


Hmmmm

Measuring in a vertical line through the centre of the rear hubs, the HT is 3" higher than the SW.

Subtract the wheel height difference (1½") and we have a nett height difference of 1½"

bugger

[Lotz-A-Landies]

Hmmmm

Measuring in a vertical line through the centre of the rear hubs, the HT is 3" higher than the SW.

Subtract the wheel height difference (1½") and we have a nett height difference of 1½"

bugger1/4Wouldn't you have to subtract half the difference because only half of each wheel affects the height of the spring? Making the difference in the springs 2 1/4"

Wasn't there someone recently with a set of military springs surplus to needs?

Diana

[drifter]

Wouldn't you have to subtract half the difference because only half of each wheel affects the height of the spring? Making the difference in the springs 2 1/4"

Wasn't there someone recently with a set of military springs surplus to needs?

Diana

You are right of course - which makes the 'problem' worse...


... except for a head smacking moment when I recall the previous owner telling me the HT has 1 ton springs on it.

[drifter]

I am going to have to apply some of my electrickery magic to the thing, too.

When the heater fan is going at full speed, it slows when the headlights are turned on.

If I turn the fan off, the headlights get brighter!

:D

One of the first things to happen is a rewire of all the non-standard wiring - with an emphasis on fuses (there appears to be a smattering of in-line fuses spread about the place - I replaced that malarkey with a 6-position fuse holder on the HT) and wires capable of carrying the current. Then a removal of all unnecessary wire. Then the 'relay fix' to the headlights.

After that I will look at the alternator size - I suspect the one in it is a low output one - it looks like the one I removed from the SWB 2a except it has a regulator bolted on the rear of it. The HT got a 65A implant. This may get the same.

[clubagreenie]

I have to be honest, and firstly not that I have been looking, but in 30+ years thats the first time I've noticed a dished bonnet. Everthing I've had/worked on has had a std flat bonnet with the non rounded front edge.

[JDNSW]

I am going to have to apply some of my electrickery magic to the thing, too.

When the heater fan is going at full speed, it slows when the headlights are turned on.

If I turn the fan off, the headlights get brighter!

:D

One of the first things to happen is a rewire of all the non-standard wiring - with an emphasis on fuses (there appears to be a smattering of in-line fuses spread about the place - I replaced that malarkey with a 6-position fuse holder on the HT) and wires capable of carrying the current. Then a removal of all unnecessary wire. Then the 'relay fix' to the headlights.

After that I will look at the alternator size - I suspect the one in it is a low output one - it looks like the one I removed from the SWB 2a except it has a regulator bolted on the rear of it. The HT got a 65A implant. This may get the same.

The symptoms you mention suggest a poor engine/chassis earth strap. But with a Series Landrover of this age, expect to find all earth connections a bit dubious. As an example, on my 2a I found that the headlights were earthed to the radiator support - which only had a very dubious electrical connection to the chassis. The problem is, Landrovers are bolted together, and while this may give a good earth connection when new, after a few decades ........ And an earth connection to the chassis using a copper tag, bolted with a steel bolt to a steel chassis, is also going to rust.

John

John

[drifter]

I have to be honest, and firstly not that I have been looking, but in 30+ years thats the first time I've noticed a dished bonnet. Everthing I've had/worked on has had a std flat bonnet with the non rounded front edge.

It is the first I have seen directly, too. I have seen reference to them in the books but not on a vehicle.


The symptoms you mention suggest a poor engine/chassis earth strap. But with a Series Landrover of this age, expect to find all earth connections a bit dubious. As an example, on my 2a I found that the headlights were earthed to the radiator support - which only had a very dubious electrical connection to the chassis. The problem is, Landrovers are bolted together, and while this may give a good earth connection when new, after a few decades ........ And an earth connection to the chassis using a copper tag, bolted with a steel bolt to a steel chassis, is also going to rust.

John

John

Cool - thanks - job #1 then becomes "run new earth wires'!

[JDNSW]

It is the first I have seen directly, too. I have seen reference to them in the books but not on a vehicle.



Dished bonnets are quite rare - probably mostly, if not only, fitted to imported station wagons. The deluxe bonnet, with the rounded front is rather more common, but I have only ever owned one.

John

[drifter]

Before I bought this one, I was told it was an imported vehicle.

When I passed the chassis number through Calvin, however, it was revealed that it was a CKD unit, just like all the others.

Diana then sealed the fate of the original 'story' when she did a lookup of the number for me.

For what it's worth, I spoke to the owner yesterday and he is still sticking by his original story :D

[drifter]

Anyone reading this and wondering where the pictures are that many of the posts hold reference to - my server crashed and I can't be assed rebuilding it. Probably easier to just get a photobucket account for the small number of pictures I generally post...

Anyways - an update.

I have decided to take this vehicle and join with ~50 others in next years Outback tour (http://www.olrhd.com.au/) - to Birdsville via Broken Hill.

With that in mind, all work has stopped on the HT while I prepare this one for full registration.

Brakes have been inspected (they were near new) and bled.

Steering has been 'tightened' - new tie-rod ends does a wonderful job!

Handbrake ratchet assembly has been replaced and new shoes and drum fitted.

Transfer case rear output seal has been replaced - less oil on the driveway now.

Wheel bearings have all been checked and tested - replacements 'in the box' if needed.

New headlights. Headlight mod ready to be installed. New earth wire loom ready to be installed all over the vehicle in an effort to counter the years of corrosion.

Interior has been torn apart in an effort (successful) to find the leak that made the drivers footwell a footbath. The leak was where the roof is riveted to the gutter!

Windscreen has been replaced - along with new seals top and bottom.

New rubbers and hinge pins on the front vents and vent/fly/insect shields installed.

All bailey channels have been replaced.

I have new rubbers for the door seals.

Windscreen washer installed. (I used Defender spray nozzles that mounted beautifully in the 'extra' wiper shaft holes under the windscreen.)

New windscreen wiper blades and arms.

New door lock mechanism on the rear door - I had a 'break in' that damaged the existing lock beyond repair. :(

Wheels painted and awaiting the arrival of tyres already purchased - but I have another set that may make it through rego.

This coming weekend: both drive shafts get dropped and new universals installed. New pinion seal on the Salisbury. New diff plug on the Salisbury (the old one is so round it will be a vice grips job). Install door seals.

I am considering the removal of the free-wheeling hubs. I have read the pros and cons in here and have listened to people in the Land Rover club I belong to - still pondering it...


It's been a busy couple of months - more to come but not far from the roadworthy and rego now.