2.25L Diesel no start :(

[Gromit68]

My diesel 2a has developed a strange outlook on life these days:

When I turn the key (only sometimes), it just clicks. Dead Rover. Nothing.
Sometimes, if I hold it on 'start', it'll eventually fire over.

Usually, it just fires up straight away, hot, cold, whatever. Gromit is usually quite reliable!

The battery is not even 12 months old, but is on charge tonight to ensure it's full. I'll try a very cold start tomorrow morning and see how I go. It also charges (well, the red alternator light never comes on, apart from during startup)

I've degreased all the terminals - it's spotless in the engine bay.
Is my starter on the way out?

What should I look for here, and if my starter really is dying, is it easy to get out and what will a rebuild cost?

Any hints or tips greatly appreciated.

cheers,

Alastair

[series3]

Hi Alistair,

It could be your starter solenoid. Do you know how old it is? You can short out the terminals to "reset" it, but watch for the sparks.

It has happened to me before this way, replacing the solenoid is the way to go.

Sam

[UncleHo]

G'day Gromit :)

Is this a key start post 67 diesel? if so it could be a dickie switch,if not clean all the solenoid contacts both battery and switch circuit ones,dose both switch and solenoid with "Inox" or WD 40, is the starter normally slow to turn over, ? if so, could be worn brushes, or end bush, Lucas M45G starter? or Lucas 2M100?,those service parts are available from Kevin at KB Classic spares in Qld (the Lucas man) home No (07)54 944 221 (not on computer)there most days ;)

As it gets cooler the battery & starter will require more amp draw so a good battery in a diesel in most important,as there is more friction in a cold block


cheers

[Blknight.aus]

rip out the old series starte and drop in one from a tdi300

[JDNSW]

Pretty much as Uncle Ho says. I would test the possibility of it being a problem with the switch by temporarily wiring in a separate start switch powered direct from the battery. If this makes the problem vanish, then the switch is the problem, and disassembling it and cleaning the contacts may be the remedy rather than replacing it.

However, my guess is that it will not fix the problem. If the solenoid is clicking, while it is possible that the problem is low voltage operating the solenoid, most likely the problem is the solenoid contacts, the brushes or possibly worn bushes in the starter allowing the armature to pole (although in this case I would not think that the it would ever work).

Another possibility is that there is a loose terminal or bad connection somewhere not right at the battery. The places to look are at the other end of the battery leads (both positive and negative) at both terminals on the solenoid, and the earth strap between the engine and the chassis. If the battery earth goes to the chassis this carries the whole starting current. Ensure that the terminals are properly connected to the actual battery leads as well.

Connect a voltmeter between the terminal on the solenoid that goes to the starter, and the frame of the starter. Now operate the key. If no, or very low, voltage appears, the problem is the solenoid or leads before there. If the full or nearly full voltage appears, the problem is the starter. Similarly, connecting the voltmeter between the battery negative and the frame of the starter will show if there is an earth problem.

John

[Aaron IIA]

rip out the old series starte and drop in one from a tdi300

This is what I did a long time ago. They have a planetary reduction gearbox, so don't have to work as hard. They are easier to remove and install, as they are both smaller and lighter.

Aaron.

[Johnno1969]

Not sure if you've checked it out/fixed it yet, but maybe check the contacts inside your solenoid (assuming that all the external checks and switches are OK). A long time ago, mine did exactly what yours is doing - and it was the copper contact plate within the solenoid. I cleaned it up and it's not missed a beat in the last ten years.

Cheers,

John

[Gromit68]

Thanks everyone - great assistance as always.

Going to investigate this weekend and see. Hopefully it's just the switch or solenoid.

[Gromit68]

Problem sorted in 5 minutes! It was a loose solenoid power lead. Poor thing wasn't getting enough juice - hence the clunk.

Thanks everyone.

[Johnno1969]

Good stuff. I like a happy ending.