eas mod , disable self level when parked

[p38driver]

Here is an easy fix- We can prevent the Range Rover waking up and self leveling.
So go buy a spade type add-in fuse holder the same as the fuses used as per F44 from any auto store Next strip and crimp two spade terminials onto the wires on the fuse holder-then Remove Fuse F44 10amp Yellow fuse and insert it into the fuse holder you made up. Next locate fuse box and remove the cover and locate Fuse holder F35 in fuse box under bonnet-There is no fuse in it There isn't in my 1998 se anyway?? This fuse socket is switched on and off with the ignition>>!(position 2 on ignition switch) So thats just what u want
Next -Plug one spade termial from your new fuse holder into the outside posi of F35 ( Thats the side of the fuse holder nearest to mudguard and plug the other end to into F44 -The inside posi towards engine. i have been driving around with this mod for a month now with no problems . I must confess that this was not my idea i found it on the net and thought i wolud share it with everyone , many thanks to selby p38 much appreciated for this mod.

[ytt105]

I've done this twice.

The first problem was that whenever I turned the ignition on the 'system' would drop the car to access mode.

So I removed it.

I then fixed the NRV (thanks Paul) that was leaking and tried it again.

This time it was working fine.... until!

I go camping a lot and tow a Jayco pop top.

Usually when you wind the jockey wheel up, the car comes up with the van and to seperate the coupling I stand on the car and it drops back down, or I can just lower the vehicle if need be.

After installing the bypass, I could not seperate the coupling by jumping on the car. And lowering the suspension would not work, in this instance, until I replaced the normal fuse.

Go figure!

[myboat]

Gidday people i am newbie to forums but not range rovers[p38]
If this not already known and before you replace any expensive eas parts block etc
The nylon pipes used in all air suspension are pron to scoring which very hard detect or fix
I have on my p38 replaced the pipes leading into my eas block and sucessfully stopped any problems with overnight dropping of course all the air bags are in good order etc.
the process is exhaust system remove each pipe and cut of the offending end replace with new and join up with nylon joiners

[rangerdanger]

I've been considering doing this modification, but with a dash mounted switch in line with where the timer relay gets 12V fed from the "ignition position 1" source.
That way if you want to disable self levelling, it is just a case of switching the system off after the car has stopped, then flicking it back on before restarting.

This would give the same effect as pulling the time relay out, without the hassles of pulling the trim out. If you only flicked the switch off after the car had stopped, the brain wouldn't know that it has been deactivated, so in theory the problem of dropping to access on startup would not happen

Anybody done this?

[taffy241255]

;)Thanks buddy worked an absolute treat!
Such a usefull mod and only takes 2mins!!!!!!!!
Great work
Cheers Taffy

[TheTree]

My P38 has a switch mounted under the passengers seat, I haven't checked the wiring yet to see how it is hooked in, but it sounds like it may be an inhibit switch.

[superquag]

Sounds like a mod I did with my '95 Classic (Test-bed for P38...)

Under the driver's seat there is both the EAS ECU, and a plug/socket interface for such goodies as the EAS Kicker. - When the pair is unplugged, the ECU is dead, frozen, shut up etc. Plugging them back together completes the earthing for the ECU and - obviously - puts it back in business. Plugging in the 'Kicker' also earths and activates it.

I just added a switch to make/break the connection, the socket being permantly UN-plugged, ready for the 'Kicker'...:p Switch is mounted on the front of the seat-base, easily reached whilst driving.

The Classic also has the 'secret' Suspension Inhibit switch, but I prefer the Brute Force & Ignorance approach.

[Hoges]

Vehicle only tries to self level if you have a leak... fix the leak!:D If you park the vehicle on a sloping driveway and it has no leaks in the EAS, the vehicle will not " self level"....:eek:

[PaulP38a]

Vehicle only tries to self level if you have a leak... fix the leak!:D If you park the vehicle on a sloping driveway and it has no leaks in the EAS, the vehicle will not " self level"....:eek:

... add a dodgy height sensor and/or EAS Delay Timer to that list Hoges :p

[blindin]

Hi, I have heard of, and seen comments of fitting an isolation switch for the eas.
Can someone point me in the right direction of how to do it please. I'm not getting anything come up on a search.
I believe it is as easy as just earthing out one of the wires from the ecu, but I don't know which one.

[p38arover]

Is this what you mean?
Range Rover P38 EAS modifications improvements and tips learned by experience by ownership. (http://www.stockholmviews.com/p38/eas-modification.html)

[p38driver]

Look here there a few pics of an isolation switch which you can turn on and off
when you like . http://www.aulro.com/afvb/p38a-range-rover/177309-keithy-p38-2.html

[mtb_gary]

Simon

I ended up using an extra EAS inhibitor switch mounted on the far left hand side of the bank of switches (replacing the blank). I have it wired up so they the orange light comes on when the EAS is active and off when the EAS is disabled.

Gary

[TheTree]

Hi

I fitted one yesterday under my passengers seat, not instantly accessible but pretty easy to flick when needed

You need to cut the purple and red wire, which supplies power to the EAS delay timer, and add a switch into it.

I will try to take a couple of pics later today

Steve

[p38arover]

Simon

I ended up using an extra EAS inhibitor switch mounted on the far left hand side of the bank of switches (replacing the blank). I have it wired up so they the orange light comes on when the EAS is active and off when the EAS is disabled.

Gary

I have the locking driving light switch mounted there (it's a genuine switch designed for that purpose). STC7811

[olbod]

I simply cut the red and purple wire and added an on - off switch.
Out of the way, easy to operate with the flick of the thumb and works fine.
I flick it off every time I park it at home and dont use The Bitch for a few days. It is parked on slightly uneven ground and used to settle trying to keep level.
Stupid Bitch wouldn't just be told.
I dont give a bugger how it looks.

[p38arover]

I dont give a bugger how it looks.

I do, that's one reason I haven't done the mod yet. I think I'll do the automatic mod. I referenced above.

[blindin]

Thanks guys,
So, the one with the relay fitted will just shut it off when the ignition is turned off, and by fitting a switch, it will shut the whole thing off.
If I was to cut and fit a switch to the purple and red wire, would that still mean that it would operate when ignition is off?
My thinking is to fit the relay, but also connect a switch so that I have full control.

[olbod]

Yep, switched off is switched off.
I know nothing about this relay thingy.
Occasionally the EAS will go into fault mode, I just switch it off while driving and it will stay at the ride height at the time and not go down to the bump stops. I just drive around like that for the rest of the day untill I get home. Stops and starts make no difference.
When I get home and park the thing I connect my Nanacom and clear the faults and EAS all good.
I then turn the EAS off untill I next need to go out.
I also have the EAS bypass kit installed with the pressure guage.
I monitor the pressure the guage when I lift the bonnet each day before I start the car.
I turn the EAS on before I lift the bonnet.
Being a LR Thingy I always check under the bonnet and check , belts, oil and water and have a general look about before setting off.

[benji]

I cut the purple and red wire as well; stuffed it in the cig tray.

Sent from my GT-I9305T using AULRO mobile app

[p38arover]

Is this what you mean?
Range Rover P38 EAS modifications improvements and tips learned by experience by ownership. (http://www.stockholmviews.com/p38/eas-modification.html)

I did this mod today. For pre-1999 models, note that the connector numbers changed, the purple/red wire (not pink/red as shown in the article) comes from the blue fusebox connector, not the yellow connector and it is on a different pin no.

[blindin]

Thanks guys,
I have a 98 so the earlier gems, I will double check wires first.
I am also planning the bypass / emergency kit. I will get round to making it up some, along with the suspension lift.
Benji, that's some switch panel you've got hiding away, what are they all for?

[p38arover]

I did this mod today. For pre-1999 models, note that the connector numbers changed, the purple/red wire (not pink/red as shown in the article) comes from the blue fusebox connector, not the yellow connector and it is on a different pin no.

Stefan has asked me to write it up for his website so I'll do than and copy it here.

I made a change today in that I added a switch in series with the relay coil so that I could still isolate the EAS power even with the ignition switched on. Effectively, it is the same as what you blokes have done with a physical switch in series with the purple/red wire.

[blindin]

so the wire I am looking for is the purple and red wire from the blue connector under the fuse box under the bonnet, not under the seat?
I have a 1998 gems.

[benji]

Yeh, blindin I went a bit overboard - a bit more than I could chew.

There's 9switches in all.
Spot lights, Eas, Abs, Tail gate and bonnet close, second battery connect, brake switch dissable eas/eas pump turn on/brake switch and door open dissable from eas, future light bar on /off/with high beam, difflock, and aux pump. And leds to indicate when the pumps, lights, difflock etc. are on.

One of those projects where you think it up on a sleepless night, then half way through you think, ****.

I've got all the worrying (wiring) diagrams of anyone needs some stress leave from work :D


Sent from my GT-I9305T using AULRO mobile app

[p38arover]

so the wire I am looking for is the purple and red wire from the blue connector under the fuse box under the bonnet, not under the seat?
I have a 1998 gems.

It's the same wire, it goes from the fuse box to the relay under the seat.

[olbod]

so the wire I am looking for is the purple and red wire from the blue connector under the fuse box under the bonnet, not under the seat?
I have a 1998 gems.

I have know idea about that.
I cut the purple and red wire under the passenger seat.
See my pic, it shows the leads going down.
The switch set up is simple, easy to get at and most people entering the car would never notice it, and if they did I could demonstate it with a flick of the thumb.

Cheers.

[blindin]

Thanks.
Just walked back in from completing it.
I went through rave to get the number then searched the location.
Found the relay under the passenger seat, which is lucky, as I was thinking of cutting a wire under the drivers seat, and then under the bonnet. Lol
It's a temp job at the moment, but is quite well installed.
Just to confirm, when I turn it off, I get the 55kph max message come up, is every one else getting this?
Also have made up a bypass kit which seems to fit well, next thing is some suspension lift and sway bar removal.
I'm hoping with my suspension valve in place it will give me much better flex, and save me from buying a diff lock.
I will try and post posts if I can ever get the thing to work.
Gary, are you going on the Friday night run?

[olbod]

Thanks.

Just to confirm, when I turn it off, I get the 55kph max message come up, is every one else getting this?



Yes that's normal.
When driving around just ignore that message.

Not sure why but it could mean when you are in low range or on the bump stops ?

[mtb_gary]

Thanks.
Just walked back in from completing it.
I went through rave to get the number then searched the location.
Found the relay under the passenger seat, which is lucky, as I was thinking of cutting a wire under the drivers seat, and then under the bonnet. Lol
It's a temp job at the moment, but is quite well installed.
Just to confirm, when I turn it off, I get the 55kph max message come up, is every one else getting this?
Also have made up a bypass kit which seems to fit well, next thing is some suspension lift and sway bar removal.
I'm hoping with my suspension valve in place it will give me much better flex, and save me from buying a diff lock.
I will try and post posts if I can ever get the thing to work.
Gary, are you going on the Friday night run?

Simon, unfortunately no. I'm currently sailing a catamaran down the east coast on our way to Melbourne (started in Queensland). I wish the cat had air suspension, it might take away some of the bigger bumps and thuds as we drop off some of the larger swells. I'm not back in Perth until late on Saturday 15th

Gary

[blindin]

I saw the comment on Facebook, remember now. That'll be why I only got your voice mail yesterday too then. Lol have fun, see you soon.
Oh, with the lack of work I have at the moment, I may have as many changes on the p38 as you when you get back.
Enjoy the bumps.
Simon

[p38arover]

I did this mod today. For pre-1999 models, note that the connector numbers changed, the purple/red wire (not pink/red as shown in the article) comes from the blue fusebox connector, not the yellow connector and it is on a different pin no.


I've done this twice.

The first problem was that whenever I turned the ignition on the 'system' would drop the car to access mode.

So I removed it.

I removed Stefan's automatic mod today for the same reason. I've left my manual switch in place.


Stefan has asked me to write it up for his website so I'll do than and copy it here.

I made a change today in that I added a switch in series with the relay coil so that I could still isolate the EAS power even with the ignition switched on. Effectively, it is the same as what you blokes have done with a physical switch in series with the purple/red wire.

The modified page was put up on Stefan's site but I see he's reverted to his old page and lost the rewritten page. I don't know why.

[Boblofty]

In my experience the easiest way to disable the self leveling is to pull the relay from under the left seat and put in its place a 4 pin standard relay. I had to do it while trying to solve another issue with the EAS and it worked brilliantly. It is the equivalent to leaving a door or tailgate open.
Give it a try, supercheap have the relays for about $15 bucks as I recall