View Full Version : double cardan joint
nicho
19th May 2011, 09:52 PM
I need a double carden joint front prop shaft for my D1 because i had to go out and put such big lift and 35's on it. It was fine until i put the 6 degree radius arms on it now i know the vibes are coming from the front prop shaft. I have a spare which should get me throught the next run but without a double carden joint i know im asking for trouble. ANY one know where i can get one second hand or a reputable driveline place that can make me one??
roverrescue
19th May 2011, 10:14 PM
'It was fine until i put the 6 degree radius arms'
Would be easier to go back to standard arms and standard driveshaft (no vibes) then slot the swivels to regain some caster?
If not D2 have the shaft you are looking for... wrecker will be your friend (youll need the tcase flange as well). Youll have to check the length is okay. May need modding.
S
mandala1111
19th May 2011, 10:28 PM
It;s a shame you didn't just get the swivel housings rotated which leaves the diff pinion angle pointing a bit upwards so the drive shaft has less strain on it.I put a 5 inch suspension lift on a Rangie classic years ago and just getting the swivels rotated solved all handling problems and I never had a vibration problem.As for the double carden joint,I also modified an old Daihatsu F10 once and needed a double carden in the front and rear.I got the flanges modified on the diffs and used an old Hilux rear shaft with the double carden joint which I just got the length altered.I went with the Hilux shaft because they are cheap and available from most 4WD wreckers.All drive shaft work was done by a mob on the Gold Coast.Good luck.
Cheers
Shane
DiscoClax
20th May 2011, 08:44 AM
I got mine from eBay (Bundalene) and a mate got his from a local backyard wrecker in Kilmore, for free :), but it needed to be rebuilt for real $$$$ :(. I know that doing the swivels is the proper way to do it and preserves your driveline angles and front end geometry, but a set of 3º arms and a DC front prop works a treat for me with my mild lift and 31s. 4.5º of castor :D If I was going the big lift I think I'd have done the swivels... probably.
Check any second hand one carefully. The centering mechanism (between the UJs) is known to flog out and if it damages the internal spigot it is pretty much a cut-off and replace the whole joint excercise. Otherwise they are fully rebuildable and parts are readily available through driveshaft rebuilders. If the DC end is notchy when articulated be wary... :ph34r:
Don't forget you'll need the matching transfer case flange (available as a loose part with seal and nut). And deep-six the mass-damper (if you haven't already). If you still have the front sway bar, that'll need to be spaced down... a fair way. Good luck.
nicho
20th May 2011, 02:03 PM
I am also trying to make it more durable so i dont mind paying the cashola for a modified dc. This was going to be a tourer but is turning more everyday into a weekend play toy. I also never take a back step once i have made the commitment i push on through until i have it right. I love the look and road feel i now get from the 6 degree RA's and they have incorporated sliders which will help when i hit the rocky tracks. I know i went over board even at the planning stages but i had looked at a few others out there and hell they look awesome on 35's so why not make my own. Good point to note is i dont have to drive it everyday so i dont have to rush it, this way i can do it right the first time.
'It was fine until i put the 6 degree radius arms'
Would be easier to go back to standard arms and standard driveshaft (no vibes) then slot the swivels to regain some caster?
If not D2 have the shaft you are looking for... wrecker will be your friend (youll need the tcase flange as well). Youll have to check the length is okay. May need modding.
S
mandala1111
22nd September 2011, 10:55 PM
Sorry to revive an old thread but I have just lifted my 94 Disco 60mm in the front and 80mm in the rear above standard height,not really intended but the HD rear springs went up a bit high and then I had to fit 2 spring isolators per spring to lift the front up to level it out a bit and am now getting vibes from the front shaft.I have used Hilux double carden joints in the past with great success and reliability on another vehicle but am not sure about the Disco 2 DC joints.I spoke to one of the guys at triumph rover spares today and he advised against the Disco 2 shaft due to a lot of them breaking,like snapping clean in half :o.Has anyone fitted these and clocked up lots of miles to know if they are reliable or not.I'd rather put up with a slight vibration with the original shaft and have a reliable vehicle than put something on that may break.also what is it with Disco's that cause vibrations.I have lifted 2 Rangie classics up to 5 inches with no problems at all and they are basically the same running gear :confused:.
Cheers
Shane
clubagreenie
23rd September 2011, 07:43 AM
The D2 shaft doesn't break clean in half as such. It does fail at the DC joint so anything you pick up I'd be rebuilding anyway so you'll need 3 unis, unit from Spicers seem to be the best value and quality balance. The expensive part is the centering-ball.
Other option is if it measures up the same as a D2 get a woods shaft for it.
Grappler
24th September 2011, 05:14 PM
Checkout double cardon Land Rover applications by Tom Woods
Google (http://www.google.com.au/#sclient=psy-ab&hl=en&safe=off&site=&source=hp&q=tom+wood+drive+shaft&pbx=1&oq=tom+wood+drive+shaft&aq=f&aqi=g1&aql=1&gs_sm=s&gs_upl=3297l12578l0l15500l20l19l0l0l0l0l2891l5298l 9-2l2l0&bav=on.2,or.r_gc.r_pw.&fp=92910b6b81417d8f&biw=1152&bih=663)
I used one of these units after my front shaft dropped out of my D2.
Prices including shipping was less than genuine
Grappler
24th September 2011, 05:23 PM
Here is a more direct link, click on Land Rover Applications
Tom Wood's Custom Drive Shafts - Tom Woods Custom Drive Shafts Custom Driveshafts Specialist (http://www.4xshaft.com/)
mandala1111
26th September 2011, 08:01 PM
Thanks guys for the feedback.I do have a question in regards to the DC joint failing.When you say it dropped or the uni's fail,is this on a noticeably worn shaft or are they prone to just instant failure.If I go with an original Land Rover DC shaft then I would buy it new so would I still be dealing with a shaft that could still just suddenly go.The chap I spoke to at Triumph Rover spares said they sold 7 just last week and he has heard of them dropping and smashing through the side of a gearbox :o.
Cheers.
Grappler
27th September 2011, 05:04 PM
The DC in the picture literally dropped out, cracking the auto gearbox case, ripping out the cooler lines and mashing the body tunnel. I was doing about 40kph when it let go.
This vehicle had done a little over 100,000 kms. It was "checked" at servicing and there were no noises or vibrations until seconds before it let go.
Unfortunately, mine is not an isolated failure.
nicho
27th September 2011, 06:39 PM
DAMN
mandala1111
27th September 2011, 06:59 PM
The DC in the picture literally dropped out, cracking the auto gearbox case, ripping out the cooler lines and mashing the body tunnel. I was doing about 40kph when it let go.
This vehicle had done a little over 100,000 kms. It was "checked" at servicing and there were no noises or vibrations until seconds before it let go.
Unfortunately, mine is not an isolated failure.
Damn x 2.Did the centre bearing go?
Slunnie
27th September 2011, 10:42 PM
The disco2 shafts failing like that isn't unheard of at all. They usually vibrate first when they fail, and if there is a problem then you need to drop the shaft fairly soon.
The Disco2 unis are 1300's as far as I know. I would highly recommed 1310 unis and you will need a new shaft built to take these unis. I believe also that Tom Woods as mentioned in here make the best shafts also. His own 1310 DC joint is strong and it is servicable - you otherwise don't get both from other manufacturers. Likewise his uni joints are guaranteed and my experiences are that his shafts last 2.5x I think it is longer than a standard spec shaft with or without greasable unis. TW ones are not expensive compared to buying them new or having them rebuilt.
Slunnie
27th September 2011, 10:44 PM
Damn x 2.Did the centre bearing go?
All of the ones which I have broken have failed in the centre bearing which then takes out the uni bearings. I've found that if the 1310's fail in the centre bearing they don't take out the uni bearings and you can rebuild it with only a centre bearing rather than the whole lot.
clubagreenie
29th September 2011, 03:59 PM
What's the opinion of ordering some Woods 1310unis/centre ball and rebuiling the shaft locally for the 1310 size needle caps? Gets the good unis and ball but built locally might work out some cheaper.
rick130
29th September 2011, 06:36 PM
FWIW Hardy Spicer do a HD double cardan joint that uses 25R Mechanics uni's that are supposedly stronger than a 1310 Spicer uni.
http://www.aulro.com/afvb/90-110-130-defender-county/110797-hd-dc-1330-uni-front-prop.html#post1308812
I have no idea on pricing compared to the TW unit, but it only takes a phone call.
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